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The following thread on Will Prowse's forum started last August, (mentioned on page 1 of this thread) is up to 62 pages so far, https://diysolarforum.com/threads/battle-born-battery-issue.110295/ I cannot embed the YouTube link, but "Will's Garage" (not Will Prowse) on YouTube has done a BB autopsy with discussion videos. This video by "All About RV's" shows Will Prowse's video and expands on the subject:

Yes, Hull 45 came with 225/75R15 tires and the inside width of the cover is 28 5/8. I'm guessing that the mold was changed at some point since @Ronbrinkhas a 225/75R16 tire spare which has a 29.21" diameter.

For the first time since incorporating the two cargo boxes in the Savana 15 months ago, I had reason to clear the cargo bay yesterday to haul a 75” QLED TV. I generally keep one box in the van as a trunk, while the other is stowed at the Cow Barn full of camping gear in readiness. For perspective, distances from the rear doors to the rear passenger seat is 6’ and to the back of the two front seats is 10’. I snapped a couple of pics this morning of the new rubber mat layout and to illustrate the unhindered spacious area of the cargo bay. The second and third 24”x36” floor mats from the rear are positioned in the footprint of each box when carried and fit perfectly atop the boxes for added protection. The aluminum plate is a runway for our folding e-bikes followed by a few extra cargo strap attachment points to secure the Dometic fridge/freezer when camping or other miscellaneous cargo, as needed. EDIT: Went back to the Cow Barn to reload the ‘trunk’ cargo box and snapped a pic of it positioned with the rubber mat on top. Ignore my foot reflection as I lounged in the rear passenger captain’s chair enjoying a beer!

It is the same except reverse. I’ve done it once.

Thanks Ron, I appreciate your effort! Next couple of days I’m working on mud flaps for the Oliver. I’m going to mount mine in front of the stabilizer jacks (others have gone behind). I was thinking the task of custom cutting the mud flaps to fit into the wheel well would be easier with the rear axle wheel off. So while doing so, I’m going to remove the spare and see if my LT225/75R16 tires fit. If yours do and they haven’t changed the hull molds…

Mike Sokol, the RV Electric Guru has prepare a lengthy list of questions to Dragonfly/ Battleborn, and to date he hasn't reported a response.

I agree that their reputation has taken a significant hit. Will has a huge number of followers. The issues he found are shocking but why is it that I have the same battery (X3) that are 4 years old and have been through a bunch of discharge/recharge cycles and they appear to be in the same condition today that they did in January 2021? Is Dragon Fly handling complaints quietly under their 10 year warranty or are there no real amount of battery failures out there? Surely they have lawyers advising them. If the design issue is as Will describes, why haven’t I received notification from DF that my batteries are prone to meltdown and/or burning up? As I mentioned before, I feel like there’s something here that seems a bit off. I will continue to track this issue while cautiously using my Battle Born’s as I have since 2021. Mike

I asked Oliver how they do it. They use a methacrylate adhesive to bond a 3/4" thick PVC mounting board to the fiberglass. He said I could score the mounting board but that the adhesive is very strong. Once the adhesive is dried, THEN they install the inverter to the board with screws. I mentioned that the Multiplus has feet on it and I couldn't figure out how to mount the Multiplus to a board with those feet. (I later realized I could have cut the board short but I suppose that would have affected ventilation under the Multiplus (?)). He actually looked up the Multiplus and found that a hook and 2 holes are provided at the back of the casing for wall mounting. (They recommend mounting to concrete/masonry - I'm not surprised, this thing is a monster) and say vertical mounting is best for ventilation) I then asked Google Gemini Pro if it recommended a specific type of methacrylate adhesive for this specifc job. This is what it said: When mounting a heavy piece of equipment like a Victron MultiPlus 3000 (which weighs roughly 40 lbs) to the fiberglass wall of an Oliver trailer, the choice of Methyl Methacrylate (MMA) is critical. Because trailers experience significant vibration and road shock, you need an adhesive that balances high shear strength with impact resistance. Top Recommended Methacrylate Adhesives For bonding PVC board to Fiberglass (FRP/Gelcoat), the industry standards are typically found in the marine and transportation sectors: Plexus MA310 (The "Gold Standard"): Why it's better: It is specifically engineered for structural bonding of thermoplastics (like PVC) to composites (fiberglass). It offers a medium cure time (15-18 mins), giving you enough time to align the heavy PVC board before it sets. Strength: It reaches 3,000+ psi and is known for "substrate failure"—meaning the PVC or fiberglass will usually break before the glue does (!!). Modern technology.... Plexus MA560-1 (For Large Surface Areas): Why it's better: If you are bonding a very large PVC board, MA310 might set too fast. MA560-1 has a much longer working time (55-70 mins) and is designed for "thick" bond lines (up to 1 inch). It is highly thixotropic (won't sag), which is perfect for vertical trailer walls. SCIGRIP SG230: Why it's better: This is the primary competitor to Plexus. It is often cited for its excellent "toughness" and ability to handle the thermal expansion differences between PVC and fiberglass, which can be an issue in varying climates. Comparison for Your Specific Use Case Adhesive Working Time Best Feature for MultiPlus Plexus MA310 15–18 mins High stiffness; ideal for heavy vertical loads. Plexus MA560-1 55–70 mins Excellent for large boards or thick gaps. SCIGRIP SG300 10–15 mins Very fast "green strength" (holds weight quickly). Export to Sheets Critical Installation Tips Since you are mounting a Victron MultiPlus, which generates heat and internal vibration (transformer hum), keep these factors in mind: Thermal Expansion: PVC and fiberglass expand at different rates. Using a "toughened" MMA (like those listed above) is essential because it remains slightly flexible enough to absorb that stress without cracking. Surface Prep: While MMAs are "primerless," you should still scuff the fiberglass gelcoat with 80-grit sandpaper and wipe both surfaces with Isopropyl Alcohol or Acetone to ensure no wax or mold-release agents remain. Mechanical Backup: Even with a structural adhesive, many Oliver owners prefer a "belt and suspenders" approach. Consider using the adhesive for the primary bond but adding a few well-placed stainless steel bolts through the hull (if possible) or into the aluminum frame for peace of mind. Would you like me to look into the specific weight-bearing calculations for a certain size of PVC board to see how much adhesive you'll need? How to use Plexus 400ml cartridges This video provides a deep dive into using Plexus structural adhesives in marine environments, explaining why they outperform other bonding methods for composites like fiberglass. Why Plexus Adhesives Outperform Putty & Wet Layup | Marine Bonding Deep Dive Chemical Concepts · 156 views

Thanks Ron. BTW, reducing tire pressure will change ride height some due to the weight of the vehicle. Change in diameter of a deflated tire without weight applied would be negligible. Some tires might even be taller when deflated, and with air pressure making them a little wider instead.

The AGILIS CROSSCLIMATE LT225/75R16 tires on our Oliver have a spec dia of 29.3". They list the Cooper Discoverer HT3 LT225/75R16 at 29.2". They must have changed the molds, the question in when. I'll measure the ID of the fiberglass spare housing and soon we'll know for hull #113 too.

It will be helpful to learn your findings on your 2016 LE2. From what I have learned some 2016 LE2 had 215X70RX16 spare tires and our 2015 LE2 had a 215X60RX16 spare tire. @CRM 2010 LE2 #45 was equipped with 15" tires from Oliver, if I remember correctly. When I contacted Oliver during 2024 they said the Goodyear ST225X75RX15 would fit our 2015 LE2 fiberglass spare tire housing, but LT225X75RX16 will not fit. Our spare tire housing inside diameter measurement is about 28 7/8", don't remember where the measurement was taken on the outer, middle, or inner portion of the housing. Cooper's LT225X75RX16 Tire height is 29.28'' with a Section Width: 8.86'' and Goodyear's ST225X75RX15 Tire Height is 28.28'' with a Section Width: 8.86''.

Hope it works out well for you! My spare is part of the routine wheel rotation and thus, kept at the same pressure as the running tires. If fitment in the spare tire housing is an issue, deflating to a lower pressure may help.

Bumped up to 70 amp and works great. I think the 60 amp made sense for the 45 amp agm. But for 60 amp Li, not so much

Did this alone in. 3 Minutes!

I went to the Cow Barn today to “verify size” and obtain photo documentation to add credence to my former statement: “My 2020 OLEll tires are all the same, Cooper Discoverer HT3 LT225/75R16.” Upon physical inspection my findings are conclusive, the four trailer tires and spare tire are the same size; something I already knew, but compelled to check as part of the verification process. However, I can’t explain away the spare tire housing discrepancy!

Thanks. Finding out how to hang this thing has been my big question.

Gene G, I have to admit that’s a first and very creative thinking! Looking forward to your pics on cover removal. 👍🏻😊🇺🇸

Patriot/CRM: Thanks for posting Will's latest video. Pretty much substantiates my claim of melting plastic as a source. But it does not explain all the other issues he is pointing out. Sad and potentially dangeros situtation. If you have BB's, it is a must see video. GJ

I'm more in the leaks at windows have more to do with the lights above the windows, clogged window tracks, or a defect in the window itself. The windows are set into a tight seal of tape caulk. The sealant is a secondary line of defense, which also protects the tape caulk from UV.

This thread is beginning to wander away from weep hole cleaning to general window leaks. If there is interest we can break it into different threads, “weep hole cleaning” and “general window leaks”. To pile on a little…. We’ve never had a window leak. We did have a leak around the back window, but it was from the Oliver light on the back of the trailer letting water in between the hulls that ran down to the back window and then found a way on to the nightstand. I caulked it 3 or 4 years ago with no more leaking. I’ve power washed, never hitting the window areas directly. The CGI team has power washed our trailer a number of times with no leaking. So, did some of us just get lucky with well seated windows? For those who have had chronic window leaks is the consensus faulty window caulking during the manufacturing process or faulty windows? I’m not naive enough to assume I will not have a leak in the future and it would be good to know what others have done to address their leaks. Mike

JD: More than a few owners have experienced window leakage onto bedding. None of us are tip-toeing around after having to spend a lot of time with wet bedding. The serious consequences can't be ignored. We are pushing the limits on ideas to stop the leaks. But we stop short of your 3,000 PSI pressure washer or spending thousands to acquire the newly designed windows that give less natural ventilation. I am thrilled that your trailer can withstand any storm or pressure washer without leakage. I can affirm that our trailer's can not withstand any storm, and most of us would shy away from letting you clean our trailers with your great machine. However, if you would please teleport it to Hawaii, I would LOVE to borrow it for about a week! I promise to return it shortly thereafter. 🙂 John

Just topped off the air for our trip to Quartzsite next week. Pressure was low since the weather got cold. 55 PSI with Alcan Springs would be jarring! Now all 4 tires are set right at 46 PSI. I like this number! 😎

Thanks for the flowers. Self heaters for long term storage are good only if you have plug-in shore power. They are great for boondocking short term in extreme conditions. But are a bit expensive. Enjoy your great trailer and BRAVO for being a four season camper! GJ

CORRECTION! This post was Edited to correct some miss-information, and my apologies to anyone who ordered a Starlink Mini Car adapter to power the Mini Router. According to Google AI, the Starlink Mini Router operates on a voltage range of 12 to 48 volts, but apparently AI is confusing it with the Mini Dishy. From looking at the actual specifications on the Router nameplate and power supply, it operates on 9 VDC, or 120VAC. This means that the Mini Car adapter will not work for the Mini Router, but it will still work for the Mini Dishy of course! I should know better, because it's not the first time AI has tripped me up with bad information 🫢 I'll be looking at getting a 12 to 9VDC converter, but right now were packing for a road trip. The new Starlink Mini Router showed up today, just two days shipping which is unheard of where I live. It's only shirt pocket size, just a little bigger than my phone. I couldn’t wait to test it, so I placed the Starlink Mini Dishy on the ground 45’ away from my bench. It's powered from one of my home made portable rechargeable power supplies as seen in the photo. The Mini router was on the bench separated from the Dishy by a 2x6 wall. The results were great! Standing next to the Dishy without the Mini Router, I got an impressive 163.9 Mbps download speed From my bench without the Router, I got a paltry 12.5 Mbps From my bench with the new Mini Router, I got a respectable 113.5 Mbps If the router was hardwired with RJ45 cable, I suspect it would be the same speed as standing next to the Dishy. The Mini Router paired in about 4 minutes using the Starlink App. It showed up as a new Mesh-2 device, the App asked a few questions, and it was immediately working. It really couldn’t have been easier.

Bill, Yes you can power it with a USB-C cord, but I question if your Anker charger can handle the wattage. The router needs to be fed from a power supply rated at least 65 watts at about 20VDC. Most USB-C power supplies, and outlets for phone chargers, cannot handle that wattage. For example, some folks have replaced the Oliver USB outlets with USB-C outlets, but these are typically under 20 watts. The 12vdc cigarette outlets can certainly handle the wattage, but be aware of plug-in adapters to USB-C because most are low wattage. The Starlink power supply is good value at $45. You would pay almost that much for an aftermarket power supply and cord, but you would not get the quality that Starlink is known for. For the more savvy electrical folks, there are scads of 9-20VDC boost converters under $20 that can handle the wattage. These can be used for powering all sorts of electronics or appliances that use 120vac wall transformers. I've even seen them for under $5 on AliExpress. Cheers! Geoff

Very creative idea. I also ran into the issue of mounting bolts that were offset. in our Domestic awning rail (below), I drilled and tapped 2 new holes that I installed 2 bolts with thread locker. The front side of the bracket is flush with the aluminum mounting bracket.