Leaderboard

About two weeks ago my wife reported to me that her cloths dryer was not working. After a quick inspection I called an appliance repairman who explained that there was a short in the heating elements and/or an internal relay - neither of these parts were available for a repair. So, off to Lowe's we went and spent $2,000 on a new washer and dryer (had to get the pair due to them being "stacked" in the laundry room. A few days later once again my wife got my attention by saying that once again the "new" dryer was doing the very same thing that the old "broken" dryer did! This time I suspected that the circuit breaker was faulty, so, I removed the cover panel from our sub-panel "A" and inspected the breaker and wiring closely. Yep - one of the wires entering the circuit breaker for the dryer was loose. Odd that none of the other wires were loose and that the loose wire showed virtually no signs of heat. But, a five minute "fix" was all it took to solve the problem. However, obviously, it was too late to get the old dryer back let alone the $2,000. What are the odds that your battery cable was loose? What are the odds that a single wire into a breaker was loose? At least yours didn't cost you $2,000.😵‍💫 Bill

All i found the problem. a loose battery connection. i feel like an idiotic not checking it first. sorry i wasted a lot of your time. i am good to go now.

Note that I've never heard of an Oliver "swaying". However, all of the manufacturers of current 1/2 ton trucks in one way or another "require" a weight distribution hitch. Both legal and warranty issues should be considered before towing an Elite II without a WDH. Bill

Update! Aaron Wolters from Oliver has kindly provided me with a list of registered Rally attendees for this year's rally. If you are attending the Rally and would like a copy, PM (private message) me with your email address and I will try to get this list to you via email. In addition, I will (hopefully) get the list to a printer and will have copies available at the Rally either at my site (B-03) and/or at registration. Bill p.s. note - there are currently 235 registered attendees.

For rallies. I have recently discovered someone trying to maintain at RV LIFE Community / fiberglassrv.com, or simply Google "rvlife rally map" and find the current year's listening. 2027 rallies: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/threads/2027-rally-map.2181770/ Google Maps directly for 2027: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/viewer?mid=1I8mtXQU3Pky2XBNV9VoyNyjY9i-XWPw&ll=42.650591549794484%2C-101.6669803122351&z=4 I've recently attended, or will be attending, these fiberglass rallies: Falling for Fiberglass: https://www.facebook.com/groups/fallingforfiberglass Thanksgiving in the woods: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1249062990470466 Eggs on the Hiawassee: https://www.facebook.com/groups/eggsonthehiawassee/ Spirit of the Suwannee: not sure of site yet. All great rallies. If the weather is cool enough, the boondocking/overflow at Hiawassee is not bad, but again, weather dependent. Some time people double up on sites too if site renters allow it. This end of year is pretty full for me for rallies, but more to come. Next year we're likely leaving Hiawassee a day early to head up to the Maine Oliver mini rally in Boothbay. Richard is the organizer, PM me if you want his contact info.

We have done the list the last three years. After talking to Scott Oliver and Matt last year, they were going to try to include that information with the welcome package. So no, I am not collecting details this year. Due to a scheduling conflict with a building project here at home, we have canceled our reservations. FYI Rally attendees: After seeing the above posts I did a little bit of poking around in order to see IF this list was actually being produced for this year's Owners Rally. Well, given that I would guess that Scott Oliver delegated this job of producing an attendee list with campsite numbers to Matt Duncan, and that Matt Duncan no longer works at Oliver, the communication chain had a good likelihood of being broken. Hopefully I will be able to obtain the information we need with enough time to get copies and have them available at the Rally. However, if there is someone that you really want to meet up with, it might be advisable to contact them ahead of time to find out exactly where they will be at the Rally. In this vein - I will be in site B-03 from late Tuesday afternoon through Sunday night (October 21 through October 25). Bill

I'd guess that one reason to use single valves rather than 3-way valves, is for ease of configuration. I ran into this when I replaced my single valves with 3-way electric valves, they have to be oriented correctly to get the correct flow paths and that meant there was piping loop-arounds to reach the correct ports. If looking at the flow paths for L-port or T-port 3-way valves, they will not work in @topgun2 drawing without a different pipe configuration... and then the simplicity is lost! Single valves are easier to configure in that tight space without loop-arounds, and they are easier to show in valve line-up sketches.

No worries! It gives us something to do! That is a Wago connector to splice two wires together. It has little levers on it so that you can pull the wires out. Other connectors might look similar, but without the lever, and the wires won't come out! Glad you found it! Happy camping!

All I had to see was a truck hauling a U-Haul trailer down the road with sparks flying from the driver side tire that had blown out. He was going down the road passing people having no idea he was tireless with rim grinding on the road. He kept going for miles down the road before we finally saw him pulled over. Convinced me to always have TPMS.

Turns out these parts as pictured will be at The Rally next week 4-Sale. A good traveling spare set would include a left and right hand set to cover a full axle rebuild. Anybody who can change a trailer tire can mount this hardware on roadside if necessary (think Alaska trip). The hubs come off with a small circlip and one large nut. The brake backing plates connect with 5 nuts on the axle studs (you can see 4 of 5 nuts in the picture). These parts are listed on eTrailer to see their retail value. These are brand new parts to be sold at a very good cash price. Please PM me if interested. You could pick up the parts pictured at the Rally and I would ship a like set for the other side to you free shipping.

Those are probably the emergency breakaway switch for the breaks and the CO monitor. They take a direct feed from the battery.

Thanks for the detailed response. I agree—the wiring is a mess, and that’s exactly why I’m redoing all of it. I did not know about the failure rate of the Optifuse. I’m also curious about the maximum of three wires on a lug, and why there are two connections ahead of the Optifuse. For my upgrade, I’ll be using the Victron Energy Lynx Distributor with ANL fuses.

I hope this issue has not previously been addressed on the forum. I could not find anything on this topic with a search. So, here goes. I have always assumed that the fresh water tank in our 2022 Elite II could be filled until water flows out of the overflow tube underneath the fridge, regardless of the fresh water sensor reading. This approach is recommended on p. 61 of our 2022 Oliver Owners Manual: "fill until water starts to run from the freshwater overflow..." I have regularly done just that with no issues--until a few days ago. When filling the fresh water tank, the aisle floor bulged upward, the entire trailer shifted to the curb side binding the door, and then, with a loud CRACK, the backsplash on the sink side of the galley countertop separated by about 1/2" from the fiber granite countertop, because the corner of the countertop near the sink was sloping toward the curbside! After we recovered from the shock, my wife and I immediately ran fresh water (via the pump) into the gray water tank through the galley sink until the trailer shifted back into equilibrium. Fortunately, this enabled the aisle floor to level out again, the door to unbind, and the countertop to slowly rise up again to meet the backsplash, so the two once again line up. When we get home, I plan to re-caulk the joints that separated, and carefully inspect for any additional damage. So far, all appears to be "back to normal" while we continue our extended trip. Lesson learned: despite what is recommended in your Owners Manual, monitor the fresh water tank level when filling, and once the sensor reads close to 100%, SHUT OFF THE WATER! DON'T WAIT FOR WATER TO FLOW FROM THE OVERFLOW TUBE!