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We just had a freeze last night. My preparations were: turn on the "antifreeze" function for the water, disconnect the hose (we currently have fresh water hookups), "argue" with wife about the setting on the heater (she prefers 62, I prefer 60). EZPZ In my previous post I ignored a "feature" of the Ollie that I have found MUCH more challenging over the last 2.5 years: the CO alarm under the table. The Ollie seals up so tight that you could easily not use the heater on many freezing nights. Body heat is absolutely trapped. It's the perfect tent. So perfect, that certain gases accumulate and alarms get triggered. 😂 So, venting is required. Too much and you might as well be outside. Especially if it's raining. Too little and alarms will wake you up repeatedly. Last night we got it just right: Max air vent open, but off; heater ran intermittently, but never labored, no alarms. Comfort and safety. Check.

We have a mixture in our home, with CFGI outlets, and a GFCI breaker. I added a pole barn for the cars and where I do most to the mechanical work. I have several 20Amp GFCI circuit breakers in the panel for outlets.

Thanks I will get back with you. My electrical knowledge is very rudimentary. I saw the capacitor and the large transformer that feeds the microwave emitter. My spidy sense was turned on immediately. I remembered being warned years ago: use only one hand when working around capacitors, the other is behind my back. Thanks for reinforcing the safety. I spent a few years around ME, EE, and Electrical techs, and electricians, but that was 30-40 years ago. They help me with a couple of different projects. I built a timing comparitor circuit with relays to turn off a cleaning pump while an automated feeder was running on an 150 gallon tank. I also rigged up a bunch of heavy duty resistors in parallel to a motor and measure voltage drop (I think) across the resistors to calculate amperage of the motor under different loads. Since my microwave failures happened in 3 different modes grill, convection, and microwave. Heat and moisture would be involved in all 3. Although each has it's own separate heat source. ie: 2 different burners, the microwave emitter. The way I am doing testing only one heat source is on at a time, and the convection fan only operates in the convection mode. There is a main fan (below the electrical input PCB. that operates when any of the 3 modes are active. I haven't looked closely at this fan. It does have an external winding next to the fan in the fan assembly. I haven't seen this before. I will take a physical look at the burners, insulation, and closeness to the chassis. I will look for anything that could be close to shorting to ground. I will inspect the main fan assembly while I'm mucking around. After that I will contact you! it might be a couple weeks, I got some other stuff planned.

Most 30-40 degree nights when using the furnace we find that just cracking the Maxxair vent a tiny bit using the hand knob is sufficient venting to prevent humidity/condensation buildup. We never open it all the way with the furnace on.

It still sounds like the oven is failing. Something probably has a high resistance short to ground when it gets hot, and it un-shorts after it cools. A GFCI doesn’t trip on heat or overcurrent, rather it detects a current imbalance such as a high resistance short to ground. It only takes about 5 to 8 milli amps to trip a GFCI, and you have tripped several different ones. The most likely culprits are the heating element or fan, and they can short due to moisture which explains why the microwave sometimes trips it. For example, if the heating element insulation breaks down when it gets hot or damp and leaks current to ground, then the GFCI will trip. However, this condition will not trip a normal breaker, or the ovens thermal protection elements. BTW, a thermo element will open the circuit, but that does not cause a GFCI trip. Your 0.02 ohms reading is fine. Don’t modify the cabinet either, because it’s not excessive heat that trips the GFCI. BTW, I’m sure you know this, but please be careful when removing the oven covers, the microwaves high voltage capacitor can give a nasty shock even when the oven is unplugged! You seem to have electrical knowledge, so PM me if you want help with some simple troubleshooting and possible repair of the oven rather than replacing it. It may take some back and forth that's better done outside of the forum. Good luck, Geoff

I can relate. Many years ago, we headed south I -40, I was asleep in the passenger seat, my wife driving. I wake up - "what is that thumping?" Oh it started a min or so back! We pulled over, the tire on the boat trailer was just about gone, and the fender was toast. Lessons learned. TPMS is invaluable. RB

It is quite possible that the tank openings were drilled and the shavings have partially bloced the tank overflow. Others have had such an issue with the fresh tank water drain tube. GJ

Hunker down Greg and family and all of our Oliver Friends along the Gulf Shore!

Timely posts, as I am in a similar position. Having once towed (50k +) the Ollie II with a GMC 2500 diesel (in dogs' years - another lifetime) I can confidently say a 2500 4wd, crew is the sweet spot. As for engine - I now will go gas engine, GM 6.6, as for Ford has 7.3 V8 I believe. The dino burner is just not (to me) worth the extra initial cost, the pain of oil changes and DEF, and other associated issues. The engine braking was nice, but honestly the Ollie at max 7000 # never pushed us anywhere. Honestly other than styling, or personal like/dislikes I could go GMC/Ford - not any real difference in functionality. I prefer the styling of the GMC in certain options. I had a LEER on mine, and you really have to try to get close to payload limits - Oliver in tow, loaded up, stuff hanging off every limb, truck loaded like the Beverly hillbillies, and still well below. I guess you could carry lead weights and get close. but, I digress. So many ways to outfit the truck bed, sliders, shelves, etc - as I get (got!) older the drop tailgate option in the GMC is really a plus. Luckly, I don't need all my WW boating stuff anymore, so that frees up some space for other stuff I don't need, but have to have. Choices, decisions, options. Darn it, I need a beer, a nice reclining camp chair, and a mountain view, yes thats the ticket. RB

By MY2026 its now accessible from a hinged hatch under the outside table that replaced the older propane fridge vent and there's no port under the drawer. You've got access to the back of the fridge, the overflow tube and further back you'll even find a 120V for the induction that theoretically could be used for something. Problem with the monitors is they get inaccurate unless you're perfectly level, and generally aren't super accurate anyhow. There's a new system in the 27's apparently, don't know if its actually much better.

A foot note about driving 3/4 ton's stiff suspension. When the truck is loaded and/or towing, the truck gives a great ride. The stiff suspension " beats you up" only when driving unloaded. As stated before, a 3/4 is lousy daily driver for two reasons. the suspension can be teeth jarring when unloaded and the turning radius 20% +/- wider. You will either compromise with a 1/2 when towing or a 3/4 ton when not loaded / not towing.