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Since the issue of frame flexing, leveling with jacks, et al. has come up in multiple threads, I spoke with Jason yesterday as to just what info was being given out at the factory during plant tours, phone inquiries, etc. In the old days (circa 2008) we were told that the purpose of the jacks was to raise, lower, level and stabilize the trailers. When we took ownership of our 2014 model nothing was said to the contrary. In full disclosure, probably since this was our second Oliver, we weren't told really much of anything. We have always used the rear jacks to lift and level both of our Oliver's and we have never experienced any cracking of the gel-coat. I would expect that flexing of the frame is "normal." That meaning, if you lift one side of the trailer significantly greater than the other you are naturally going to put a certain amount of twisting force on the frame. Is this OK? Probably for short periods of time. I would not recommend leaving it that way over the winter. I learned from Jason that the concern is about flexing the jack attachment points on the frame and the factory position is that the jacks should only be used to stabilize the trailer. It is their opinion that, with the exception of changing a tire, they should not be used to completely lift the weight of the trailer. All three jacks are made by the same manufacturer with the rear two made especially for Oliver. They all have the same rating. Steve's opinion is that the jacks are fully capable of lifting the full weight of the trailer. If this were not true the front jack should never be use for lifting (it does, however, have a completely different mounting system from the rear jacks.) As I see it, the problem is not with the jacks but with the way they are mounted to the frame. At full extension, there could be a lot of leverage and torque on the attachment point. For this reason we have always put 11 inch blocks under the rear jacks and rarely extend them past about 4 inches. Individual owners will have to make up their own minds as to their leveling needs. As for the gel-coat cracks in a Casita, their hulls average about 3/16" thick. There are areas of the Oliver hull that are over 2 inches thick! Our hulls are much more substantial than any of the others.

I do try to provide a level surface to put my blocks on. Usually that only requires brushing away any rocks or debris that would not let the block sit solidly on the ground. I have never had to dig any dirt away. Again, our rear jacks are rarely extended over four inches or so. It's rare that the tires are off the ground. We even set the front jack on about 8 inches of block to keep it from being over extended. This manner of leveling our Oliver's have served us well and without problems for over 9 years of use. We have found the message in Matthew 7:24-27 to be useful when parking the Outlaw Oliver. In other words, be careful about parking your Oliver alongside a river with a sandy beach during a four day rain event.

Found the Dexter axle grease, the #11390 LMX "Red" Grease on line for a little more than $8 a tube plus shipping and handling. Was greatly surprised that we were able to walk into an ACE Hardware auto section and pick up a couple of tubes for under $6 each. No shipping. No handling. No waiting. How often does that happen any more?

Under the topic "Anderson Levelers" several people discussed the frame flexing when they jacked up the trailer. As a result the door would not open or close. Someone said frame flexing was "Normal". My Casita and most fiberglass boats get spider-web gelcoat cracks from flexing. Is there a chance of introducing cracks in the hull when we jack up the trailer to get a tire off to repair a flat or to service wheel bearings or breaks? Is frame flexing really normal?

Here's a link to the blocks - https://www.amazon.com/Camco-44512-Yellow-Leveling-T-Handle/dp/B00T36IQJO/ref=cm_wl_huc_item

We use wood blocks under all of the Ollie jacks (when using all jacks) to make the Ollie stable. Making the Ollie exactly level is not a goal for us. Many times the only jack we use is the front jack with chocked wheels for one night stays while en-route. Understand sometimes you only have one place to park and it's not close to level like some of the mountain sites we camp on. Used to place our previous TT (single axle wheel) up on a block on the low side with all wheels chocked and extend the stabilizers for stabilization. When we encounter the same type of sloped mountain site this summer, will do the same with the Ollie.

I've shoveled lots of times but this time it's sitting on a new lawn at a new house. The street side tires are both off of the ground and spin freely and that's fine because there's no loss in strength on this side of the trailer. Notice that I put the Camco blocks upside down always when using them under the jacks, giving the jacks a flat surface to sit on. Then I always use ast least one of the oversized plywood blocks as a base, when on dirt or lawn. The large blocks help keep the trailer level longer when set up on a dirt pad because the jacks don't have the chance to sink in. I stuck the water hose under the one tire just for the pic. I just want to say that, having the door get jammed up is really such a common occurrence that you guys need to understand that it's not anything to worry about because it's just a simple part of RVing :)

When our trailer is in storage I use four Anderson Levers to keep all four tires off the ground. I've never had an issue with anything getting into the Oliver. I do strongly recommend the custom size screens (Amazon) to cover the furnace and hot water vents even while traveling. Hap Sometimes in Florida but currently in a fabulous small town of Llano, Texas. The city park "Badu Park" is 15 dollars a night for full hookups, it appears to be very safe and on the river. A city police officer just slowly drove thru. I love Texas.

Instead of clicking on the thread title, Click on the time under "last posted,," 16 minutes ago, ten days ago, etc. That will take you to the last post. You can scroll up from there. Hope that helps. Sherry

Heres a listing of approved lubricants from the Dexter company: Approved Grease Sources Chem Arrow- Arrow 2282 Chevron Texaco- Chevron Ulti-Plex Grease EP #2 Texaco Starplex Moly MPGM #2 Citgo- Lithoplex MP #2 Lithoplex CM #2 Mystik JT-6 Hi-Temp Grease #2 ConocoPhillips/ 76 Lubricants/Kendall - Multiplex RED #2 L427 Super Blu Grease Dexter Company- Lithoplex Red MP #2 Exxon/Mobil Company- Ronex, MP Mobilith AW 2 Mobil I Synthetic Grease Fuchs- Renolit Uniwrl 2 Great Plains Lubricants- Lithium Complex EP #2 Oil Center Research of Oklahoma - Liquid-O-Ring No, 167L Pennzoil-Quaker State Company - Synthetic Red Grease Royal Mfg. Company- Royal 98 Lithium Complex EP #2 Shell - Gadus S3 V220C Gadus S5 V220 Rotella Heavy Duty Lithium Complex #2 Valvoline - Valvoline Multi-Purpose GM Valvoline Durablend I buy the Mystik JT-6 Hi-Temp Grease #2 (red stuff) from my local Napa store.

The literature and consensus is that this grease is the recommended grease for the Dexter EZ flex upgrade. Recommended for high and low temperatures, high pressure, heavy loads, water insoluble, and high adhesion. Sounds about what I want my Oliver to be riding on. This is one place where I won't settle for any old grease just sitting around. The stress put on dual axles systems during turns and other situations is reason enough for us to upgrade. Especially after seeing what some units look like after a few miles with worn out bushings and shackles.