ScubaRx

What is the brand and model on yours?

I doubt it, we've owned two different Oliver's over the past 13 years, that has never happened to us. But....like I said, our fridge is different from yours. Additionally, I've never heard another Oliver owner complain about that problem.

The fridges being supplied with the newer trailers are different from the one that is in out 2014 Hull #050 so I am not familiar with the indicator lights on yours. I do know that your refrigerator will AUTO select between all 3 modes. Ours will only swap between LP and AC.

So you are physically switching the fridge to propane when you start to travel? It won't change modes unless you do it or set to AUTO.

Do you have the fridge set to AUTO or MANUAL?

I suspect the fridge outlet is not connected to the inverter circuits. Also, with no solar I'd be very careful about running the fridge on DC, you likely will arrive at the end of a travel day with a severely depleted trailer battery. Dumb question, you didn't turn the propane off before leaving camp?

Actually, I read every post and have just done so again. I’m still seeing the majority claim they had no problems.

So you show up on July 21, 2020, make vague claims, "It seems...should consider...hazardous hull" that apparently nobody but you has experienced and then disappear the next day never to be seen or heard from again. Last visited July 22, 2020 Hmmm

While operating the right rear jack yesterday, I heard a loud pop and now the foot will not go up or down. The motor runs normally. I realize something has broken inside and I'll fix that. But has anyone done any maintenance on these Barker jacks in the form of greasing or anything along those lines? I have an extra jack and I suppose I'll just swap them out for the time being.

The screws only hold the inner and outer trim rings together. They are not inherent to a watertight seal. The easiest way to get the broken ones out are to remove them all and release the inner ring. The broken screws can be removed with a pair of vice grips. The do not go into a hole in the outer frame, rather a channel that runs around the frame. This will prevent you from having to try to line up all the screws when reinstalling.

Propane has 91,500 BTUs per gallon. Gasoline has 116,090 BTUs per gallon Any generator running on propane will have at least a 20% reduction in power (wattage) output. I would take this into consideration when sizing the generator for running the AC.

With the trailer orders that they have received but have yet to build and deliver, they are well into 1000’s.

We were 40 miles into the Arkansas back country down a gravel road and it was pouring down rain. Even if we'd had the proper caulk with us at the time, everything was too wet to fool with it. The photo was actually part of a video we shot claiming that this was the "...new, optional Oliver rainwater collection system. With enough rain it can supply all your freshwater needs..."

You are correct, it isn't now, but in the early models it was. Somehow, the nomenclature just stuck. We need to come up with a more accurate name.

On mine, the wires were fairly short. It was hard to pull it back and out of the way. Maybe you pulled a wire loose while dealing with the leak. Checking this will probably require you to pull the insulation down again and possibly remove the cover from the inside (a wire could have pulled away from the LED strip and will need to be soldered back). As a side note, a good voltmeter can save you a world of frustration.

Looking at that wiring, I could tell you exactly who wired your trailer.

RE propane: We have the 30 lb tanks. We have had a tank last as long as 55 days of boondocking. This would include heating water, running the refrigerator, and some cool evenings and mornings of light furnace use. Trapped in a Walmart parking lot in Pampa, TX during an ice storm, we spent 3 nights and 4 days in sub freezing temperatures and winds up to 40 mph of snow, sleet and rain. We used maybe half a bottle of propane. My opinion is the only time you have too much fuel is when you’re on fire.

Concerning the Andersen hitch (or any add on device) there’s no increase in payload capacity. The sticker is all you’ll ever have no matter what you add to the truck.

Wow, great job. Any sign shop can recut that vinyl appliqué for you and make it say whatever you might want.

Don't be too concerned about the 5200 sealant. If it's not leaking now, it's unlikely you would every need to remove it again. I did use some of that stuff to affix a metal plate to the roof to stick a magnetic antenna to. Then I decided I wanted to move it. It's still there...and will be, apparently.

Sorry, see my edit.

Sounds like you both may have an AAEI on board (Alien Aquatic Elf Infestation). You'll want to have that checked out. Actually, the check valve in the water pump is sticking open allowing the city water to back fill the tank through the pump. Disconnect the city water and run the pump for a while. This will usually reset the check valve and all will be good.

If you are planning to mainly camp where there is electricity you don't need any solar or fancy batteries. Just plug up and enjoy the stay. The fridge will be running on AC as will the water heater, air conditioner and microwave. Your batteries will be charging and all your 12 volt accessories will be running off your converter. If you will need heat, bring along a small electric heater. Using this plan, I think you will do nicely without any propane. If you decide to spend a night without an electrical source, you will be fine with just the standard batteries.

You are correct, it is merely gray double sided tape.

I put one of these on our drain and just screw a hose onto it if I happen to drain my tank at home. The OOII lives in its own garage and I don't like just draining the water onto the floor. This way I can divert the water to a floor drain. I usually just open the drain cock whenever we're within 100 miles of home and let it drain out as we go down the road.