ScubaRx

I'm curious as to why Oliver wired your battery bank like that. During our 2013 build, I had them wire our 4 x 6 volt AGM's as two pair of series paralleled together with the leads coming off the opposite corners of the bank. Do you think they thought it didn't matter how the lithium's were wired? Anyway, I agree that it would make a big difference (obviously over time) in the voltage/percentage readings. I hope your batteries are OK and this "reset" will fix you right up. I just finished a Battleborn install in the Outlaw Oliver. I got 7 years out of the Trojan's, but one of them finally gave up the ghost. The other three seem to be fine. I'm gonna hook them up to my Dewalt equipment if I can figure out a way to move them around.

There is a rather large efficiency difference in propane vs gasoline. That generator has a max output of 2200 watts with a continuous output of 1800 watts. This is based on using gasoline. A gallon of gasoline has 125,000 BTU’s. A gallon of propane has 91,700 BTU’s. As you can see, the output is significantly lower with propane therefore it can’t produce as many watts.

You'll be more likely to get it if everything is wired correctly.

I got strange readings from ourBlue Sky IPN-Pro for a while. Until I figured out that not everything was running through the shunt. After a little negative re-routing all is good. The main problem was that the onboard charger's negative wire was bypassing the shunt therefore the IPN-Pro did not see any of the power going into the batteries from it. Check the grounds from your charge controller and converter/charger and make sure they go to the shunt before grounding out to the trailer.

We have had white countertops on both of our Oliver's. Reason being, the fiber granite mold for the countertop had not been made when Hull # 050 was launched and was not even a twinkle in someone's eye when we got Hull # 026. Our other surfaces are fiber granite, however. To answer your question, the area between the sink and the cooktop is very scratched. But, no more so than the tabletop. Either will show the scratches as a dullness. Wax will not make it shiny again but it does not detract. We bought these trailers to use and, after 140K miles, they do show signs.

I made my reservations for your first set of dates. I'm gonna need you to help me fix that. I could not do it on line.

Your Oliver will come equipped with everything you need to properly attach it to your tow vehicle. This will NOT include a ball mount and ball to insert into the rear receiver on the truck. It WILL include safety chains. It will have a lanyard to attach the breakaway stitch (for emergency braking) to your truck. I doubt it will have a lock for the Bulldog Hitch but most likely, you will be provided with a pin to Keep it secured. You will need to arrive with a tow vehicle that is equipped with a brake controller and wired for a seven pin connector. You will also need a ball mount with a 2” ball adjusted to the proper height. Your delivery person will go over every facet of hitching and unhitching. Relax, all will be fun.

Brian, you don't have to consider the weight of all the necessary fluids, such as gas, oil, and radiator fluid that keep the truck humming along, it is included in your GVWR.

Don’t forget about David Crockett Birthplace State Park near Limestone, TN. Just in case it wasn’t confusing enough already

The furnace in the Elite is located right next to the bathroom under the forward dinette seat. It is ducted into the bath and out into the cabin. It probably is not as effected as the Elite II setup as far as between the hulls heating goes.

We pulled our former Oliver Elite Hull # 026 with a 2007 Tahoe LTZ V8. No Andersen Hitch (don't think it was even on the market back then) and never needed it. We had that combo for 5 years from 2008-2013, never a problem. Then we got an Elite II, much heavier and we pull it with a 2017 2500HD Diesel. A new Elite will weigh around 4000 pounds loaded and ready to travel. Bottom line, your Escalade should do a fine job with an Elite. I would feel comfortable towing with it.

I'm impressed that Townesw has chosen to outfit their 2019 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax with a custom Turboencabulator modification. I've been contemplating doing the same to our 2017 model.

Malcolm called the other day and told me that he and Ursula had moved on from their Super C to an LV. His will have over 3000 watts of solar on the roof and enough battery power to run one of the two A/C units constantly including a full size residential fridge. The thing is over 30 feet long and weighs 18000 pounds. The company requires you to have proof of ownership of a 1 ton truck as a tow. It sounds nice but for $460K it should be.

You would not have to run the wiring on the outside. Send Oliver the wiring harness and ask them to place it into the belly of the trailer during construction leaving both ends accessable. You can finish the installation once the trailer is delivered. If that fails it is not hard to run the wiring yourself after the fact. I'm assuming the camera receives its power from the truck and the harness, so most likely there will be no need for wiring inside the trailer.

Nancy, you two are about to embark on probably the best times you've had in a long time. Your new Oliver looks great so from Hull # 050 to Hull # 676, Happy Travels...

Good question. As you can see on the map Michigan is not on the way to anywhere. We've just not gone out of out way to go there. We almost did on the way back from Alaska in 2019 (Wow! was that only a year ago?) but didn't. I do want to go out to Isle Royale and that would necessitate going there. No other reason we haven't been.

The only reason to blow the lines out only to refill them with liquid would be to keep from partially diluting the antifreeze. Full disclosure: living in North Mississippi, in 13 years I've never used a drop of antifreeze. I usually do drain the the lines and water heater and blow them out but as we are usually back on the road in mid January, I sometimes don't get around to it. As far as traveling in freezing weather, a full tank of water would take a long time to freeze, I've never worried about it. The pex lines won't burst even if frozen solid but all the fittings run the risk. I do carry pex rings and fittings plus cutting and crimping tools with me.

We have traveled 130,000 miles in our two different Oliver's over the past 13 years. We have always had 3 dogs with us, although only one of our current three has made every trip. Unlike your Oliver you are not dealing with a car or van that will heat up dramatically. If the outside temperature is above 45° F and under 85° F, the inside of the Oliver will be very comfortable for them. If the temp is toward the upper end we will leave the Maxxfan running and the windows open a bit. We always leave plenty of water. Our personal rule is that if the temp is above 75° F we will not leave them in the truck. If it is extremely hot (>90° F) we will leave the AC running on the generator. The longest we've ever left them was about 13 hours while we rode the train from Williams up to the Grand Canyon and back. They were fine and very happy to see us and ready to go pee. Usually, it's not more than 2-3 hours. This issue has been cussed and discussed several times here and in other places through the years. As technology has progressed there probably have been some electronic solutions, I'm just not personally familiar with any good ones. Please follow up with your findings.

To the best of my knowledge, there has never been a "standard equipment" inverter. However, I do believe at one time you could order just an inverter, there as a choice of 600 watt and 1000 watt (I think). It was so much simpler when we bought Hull # 050, there was no option list. As a consequence, I had to install all the stuff that are options now. One thing we do have (as a holdover from our earlier Oliver) is a motorized RV Power Cord Reel. It has never been offered as an option.

Here again, I'm confused. I think you're referring to the Progressive Dynamics Hardwired EMS-HW30C RV Surge & Electrical Protector. This is still not an inverter rather it's an Electrical Management System (EMS). It is located under the street side dinette. There is also the Progress Dynamics load center that contains all your 110 VAC breakers and the 12 VDC fuses as well as the onboard charger for your batteries. As I stated previously, the onboard inverter, is a piece of equipment that changes (inverts) 12 VDC to 120 VAC. It is usually located under the bed on the street side.

We've been to over 250 of the National Park units from every state including Alaska. I've sometimes had to have help (Chiricahua National Monument) but have never been unable to get into a campsite with our LEII (2014 Hull # 050). From 2008 to 2013 we had one of the original Elites (Hull # 026). From a height standpoint, the LEII will be a better fit for you tall folks. From our experiences, the Elite was a little small for two adults and three dogs, the largest one at about 100 pounds.

When you say inverter, are you talking about an inverter generator? If you have the onboard inverter, it is a piece of equipment that changes (inverts) 12 VDC to 120 VAC. It is usually located under the bed on the street side.

If the refrigerator was indeed accidentally running on DC, that may well be the cause of the "problem" with the batteries not charging. They may have been charging normally all along and the fridge was simply using more amps than were coming from the panels and truck combined with the end result being depleted batteries. It can easily draw 16-17 amps. If this be the case, you can claim to be the poster child in the campaign to not ever run the fridge on DC. Most of us have be preaching this for years. If the fridge is operating properly, it will never "default" to DC. You always have to make it go to DC and the AUTO button must be OFF in order to do so. When the AUTO button is ON the refrigerator will automatically select between AC and LP, but never DC.

Just a few thoughts. Have you actually gone out and measured the voltage of each individual battery? Have you checked all the battery terminals and made sure they are not corroded or loose? Are the lights dim? Will the tongue jack lift the trailer when plugged in vs not plugged in? I am not familiar with the current wiring layout, but I believe that the problem will turn out to be a connection issue. This one reason I've never been a fan of the Zamp system. What are the amps doing? With no shunt and no way to monitor anything other than volts, it's very difficult to tell what's going on.

Congrats from Hull # 050. Do not worry about having to learn new stuff. We've all been there and still learning new stuff every day. Feel free to ask away and we'll get you up to speed. Learn from the mistakes of others, you'll never live long enough to make them all yourself!