ScubaRx

Sheri, so, did you ditch the Andersen WD hitch? What hitch are you now using? As we discussed on the phone, your Threaded Quick Link deformed and stretched because it was not properly screwed together. That link is easily replaced if you want to begin using the Andersen again. Checking these links to make sure they're tight before travel is necessary (but, since your truck likely needs no weight distribution, as Overland stated, it was not a dangerous situation). There is no reason to ever loosen them as this would not serve for any adjustment. As some have suggested, if I had an Andersen set-up (I don't) I would put a drop of Loctite on the threads and tighten them down well.

I actually put them on a utility trailer that previously had none.

Apparently the OP (John M) has left the building or has lost interest in this thread.

The Bright Way Group batteries are manufactured by Trojan.

My father used to raise Chukar's.

This is our first Oliver, Hull #026. There was a heck of a lot of clearance on it. I was never carried away with the look. Our current Oliver, Hull #050 has 1-5/8" clearance from the top of the U-Bolts to the frame.

Please explain the circumstances of where you want to move the trailer to. Uphill, downhill, around a curve, backing up, moving forward?

The production team does not need a wiring diagram. Early in the build of every new Oliver a custom wiring harness is installed. Said harness can handle any and all options the customer orders. Wiring sizes were predetermined when the harness was developed. Earlier builds do not enjoy the neatness and benefits of the harness. I was told at delivery of our Hull #050 they used "5 miles of wire..." an exaggeration, I'm sure but there sure is a lot of it!

til it overflowed

Actually, the upgrade will be 5200 pound axles de-rated to 3500 pounds due to the four leaf spring packs. As you stated "...Disc brakes are not an option they are offering at this time..." But we are speaking about the 2022's.

Disc brakes with larger axles on the 2022’s might be a factor.

display of wild...

The picture of the rear of the (probably rental) trailer shows a heavily loaded Curt basket on the rear receiver. It is speculated that the combination of a lighter than normal tongue weight and the probably inexperienced driver just lost control. In his case the trailer most likely well outweighed the truck as opposed to us Oliver owners generally being the other way around. I have a feeling in the same situation with our trucks and trailers, it would have torn the safety chains off the trailer. I replaced the springy cables with chain and oversized hooks. When I bought this I thought it was way more that I could possibly ever need, now I'm not so sure.

Relax guys, this is not a major issue. I've owned two different Oliver's over the past 13 years. Both an Elite and a Elite II. If you hit a big enough bump or drop into a deep enough hole, the suspension will probably bump the frame. I have noticed evidence of contact on both trailers thru the years. Other than cosmetic, there was no damage to the frame. The Elite's are supplied with 5200 pound axles with larger brakes and bigger spring packs than the two 3500 pound axles on the Elite II's.

What are you planning to tow?

I looked for one 13 years ago for that very reason with Hull #026. No luck, I built one. It is about three feet long and perfectly goes from the generator to the front of Hull #050, our current Oliver. Not being aware I was not supposed to, I have been known to run the generator while under tow, but with no apparent problems. I suppose I’ll just chalk that up as further justification of our Oliver’s name...The Outlaw Oliver. I’m still using the same generator I bought in 2008 for the first Oliver. It has ridden in the baskets of both trailers for over 150K miles and has been on every trip we’ve ever been on. I would just purchase the parts to make my own cord. That way, it will be perfect for your application.

I would not let them cut the furnace return in Hull #050. Robert Partee (service manager, the only salesman, my friend, the MAN) argued with me about it every time I was at the factory during our build in 2013. I won. The furnace has run fine and heated very well for these past seven plus years. I had it on just the other night during the recent wave of ice and snow when it was in the low teens here in the Deep South. I did have them install three of the lower access doors. At the time, it was just something I dreamed up during one of my build visits. I thought they would look cool and I suggested using the same hatch that was to be used in the bathroom (only reversed so it would open down instead of up.) In retrospect, they've come in handy for us to access the basement and the valves under the curbside bed (we have the raised beds) the one under the street side bed was really just for symmetry and looks, but it does allow me to easily reach the reset button on the inverter if I need to. Apparently the folks that saw ours started asking for them and now they are options? If I need to introduce more air flow into the basement I just open one or more of those doors. They would serve nicely as the furnace return also, although we don't open them for that as it doesn't seem necessary. I've always been able to keep the basement areas within 10-15 degrees of cabin temperature with no great amount of effort. I've never noticed the furnace to be noisy, except the time the fan got into the shroud and I had to pull the furnace and tighten up everything. Ours has to come out through the inside and it's sort of a PITA.

There is quite possibly a solution for this situation coming soon...

I believe he's suggesting that since you don't tow with a diesel (as many of us do) you don't technically have a dog in this race.

Empty the black tank first, then the gray. This will allow the gray water to somewhat clean the hose after the black water has gone through it.

This page has links to the firmware update and instructions for installation.

Susan, does your 2013 F350 really have a 3.2L diesel?

I numbered my tanks # 1and # 2. Let's assume both are completely full, mounted in the trailer with the hoses attached. Open the valves on BOTH tanks. Turn the lever on the regulator toward either tank. The indicator will be green. Use your trailer and appliances normally. When the first tank is empty, the regulator will automatically begin using from the second tank. There will be no interruption of the flow of propane, but indicator will now be red. The lever on the the regulator DOES NOT physically move. You will need to be aware of how long a tank will last you and after a period of heavy usage, check the color indicator. When you see it is red, close the valve on the empty tank, remove the hose and take it to be filled. At that point swap the lever to the remaining tank. The indicator will change back to green. When the first tank is replaced, leave the lever pointed toward the second tank until the indicator again turns red indicating the second tank is now empty. I use and highly recommend the Mopeka tank monitoring system. I can check the level of propane in the tanks from inside the coach on a readout or with an app on my phone. I also invested in a couple of these.

Just for everyone's information. Oliver does not balance the tires themselves. They buy the tires already mounted and balanced. I spoke with the plant manager today and he stated that's the way they have done it since he came in 2017. Scott Oliver states they have always been balanced. I'm not convinced they've been doing since 2014. Mine were not as it was the first delivered Elite II, but I've had it done during the intervening years. Since this issue has likely not existed in the last 3-4 years, I think we're beating a dead horse. Like BackofBeyond: "I'm gonna find something else to think about..."

The way this poll is constructed makes our answers a little ambiguous. Oliver has not always balanced the tires on their trailers. The tires that are currently being installed arrive at the factory already balanced, but the poll provides us with no way for one to tell if the trailer was delivered prior to or after Oliver started providing this needed task. I would suggest adding the hull number or, at least, the year of production. Out of curiosity, what year/hull number do you own?