ScubaRx

The Outlaw Oliver because Outlaw is a family name.

I know a guy in Virginia that makes these vents up in any size if anybody needs one.

As Ken pointed out, if the furnace is producing heat, the fan has to be running. By your description of what’s happening, I suspect the main duct hose has come loose from the furnace and all the heat is spilling into the basement (tween decks) area. To check, remove the access cover at the curb side rear under the mattress. You should be able to immediately see if that is the issue.

It’s 10 am here In Bangkok.

Yes, the avatars are HUGHHHHH

Nan, We are in Bangkok at the moment. You should use which ever is attached to the trailer currently; cables or chains. You do not need both. I removed the cables from our trailer and replaced them with heavy duty chains. To me, they are easier to hook up than the stiff cables.

Although I’ve owned two PD TX Switches on two different Oliver’s with no problems, your idea of additional hold down capability using adhesive sounds like a good plan. Also, be careful to only tighten the screws until they are just snug.

I believe you may have better success with jacking the frame up behind the wheels rather than in front. My experience with using the front position is that it also lifts the front jack off the ground, particularly if you're trying to lift only the rear tire. This could turn into a disaster if the trailer decided to pivot on the opposite side tires. "But they're chocked", you say. Still taking a chance in my opinion. "Keep it hooked to the tow", now you're trying to lift the truck too.

Our fridge is always on propane when traveling. There are folks that successfully use 12 volts going down the road, I've never had consistent good luck with that. There are millions of campers on the road using their propane with no problems. You will need to make that personal decision yourself, there is no right or wrong answer.

There are a total of three in your neck of the woods.

You guys are 2-3 campsites up from where we were back in late May or early June.

It's amazing that you should mention those things. They were two of the very reasons that we abandoned the project!!!

Years ago, soon after the release of the Elite II, Robert Partee asked me to come up with a design for a rear hitch. His goal was to be able to mount a bicycle rack, but, as I envisioned a way to do it, I realized it would be strong enough to pull another vehicle. Understand, this never went beyond my most basic of thought processes. IF we had attempted it, our plan was to machine (or weld up) two lengths of STEEL tubing sized to fit the inside of the longitudinal frame rails. We planned to make them as long as we could force them inside the rails and still stick out about 6-8 inches. The rear bumper would have had to be removed and/or redesigned. The rear body bolts would have had to be removed and then reinserted after the steel was slid into the frame. Also, new holes would have to be drilled after the steel was in place. Way overkill to carry a couple of bikes. But, if I wanted to pull a forty foot stock trailer full of Percheron's behind the Oliver and could figure a way to overcome the tongue weight, this is the way I'd do it. In the end we abandoned this idea as being too too much. I did draw him a sketch of what, years later, would become the (now discontinued) two inch, top of frame mounted, dual receiver bicycle rack that they ultimately built (for a while.) Like a lot of things in the world, after the attorneys got through with this, it was abandoned because of the fear that some idiot would overload it (despite the ubiquitous "warning label" to the contrary) and the world would end. And I believe one ultimately did, so I suppose the lawyers were proven correct this time.

Unless your generator is over 3000 watts it is very unlikely to be able to run the heat strips with anything else drawing 120 VAC, especially the water heater. Maybe even the charger or fridge. It's an easy test. If you're trying to work with a 2000 watt or smaller generator, I know you can't run anything else. On a different note, does your furnace fan come on, run for 10-15 seconds and then the whole thing shuts down? If so, it sounds like your sail switch is sticking. If this be the case, open the rearmost curbside hatch under the bed where you can see the furnace and turn it on. While the fan is running slap the the top of the case with the palm of your hand several times - hard. Ours had started sticking in Colorado early in our Alaskan trip we took this year (Alaska, where the temperatures broke 100 year old heat records, so we really didn't ever need the furnace.) Anyway, this solved the problem and it worked after that. It's a simple fix but in our Hull #050 it is a bugger to pull the furnace to get at it.

The awnings on the early (circa 2008) Oliver's were not made by Fiamma (although they look like them.) They were Horizon awnings made by Dometic. This parts blow up may help. Also, check here.

Thanks for letting us know that you had success. Yay

Try pushing inward on the arms at their “elbows” while attempting to close the awning. Obviously this will be a four-handed effort. Hyperextending the arms will sometimes lock them open. They are normally not straight when deployed. Sorry if that sounds like Captain Obvious. ?‍✈️ Be careful not to pinch your fingers or palm of your hand if it gives suddenly.

“Drain”, on the suburban water heaters, means you need to remove the anode.

I had watched the guys at Oliver install this furnace in our trailer at the factory back in 2014. It came out and went it through the basement access door. Because of a couple of minor issues I've had our furnace out, twice. I took it out through the rear under-bed access panel on the curb side. I had to remove the vent cap and exhaust tube assembly from the outside of the trailer by drilling out the pop rivets. Then it was just a matter of unhooking the vents, gas and electrical feeds and rotating the heater to remove it up through the hatch. Although I feel there is minimal danger in all this, anyone who is uncomfortable with this process or doesn't feel they possess a skill set that's up to the task, should probably not attempt it. Realistically, only the oldest models will have the Suburban Heaters that would have to come out from the inside. All the later models have Atwood heaters that are serviceable from the outside.

Oh my goodness, half the fun is the drive. She's gonna be missing out! We just spent 90 days on the road covering almost 14,000 miles. We drove through Oak Harbor on our way down to Coupeville to visit Ebey's Landing National Historic Reserve. We ate at the Coupeville Wharf and bought some books at a sale the Library was having. We never have an itinerary and never make reservations. I think it took us another 3 weeks to get home from there. Take your time, enjoy the ride, it won't last forever.

Hull # 089 was delivered on 07/20/2015 and is a Legacy Elite II. Teal would be at least its third owner.

To put this issue to rest, the factory stopped installing the valve in the black tank flush line. There is still a back flow preventer.

Our OOII is a real heavyweight. Ready to camp is about 7200 pounds. Weighed tongue weight at 675-700 pounds. We tow with a 2500 diesel, no WD/Sway hitch, 100,000 miles, never a problem. Your trailer will likely weigh about a thousand pounds less. We have 5200 lb axles, 12" disc brakes, 30 lb propane tanks, raised bed risers and a 275 lb, 3000 watt generator on the tongue. With the extra storage under the beds and a full tank of water, we likely haul well over 1000 pounds of "stuff." Actually, I identify as a recovering minimalist.

Reduction of spam is not the impetus for the registration requirement.

We are spending our second night in Antigo, WI. We got here late Sunday afternoon and scoped out the Slide-Master factory. Early this morning we were at the plant where we were welcomed by the sales staff. Matt (sales person) took us to their other facility where all the aluminum fabrication is done. Here Tali and I unloaded and completely disassembled the upper assembly mounted on the slide in our truck. Then their team removed the bare slide and took it into the shop where they removed the older style latching mechanism and replaced it with the latest style. During the time they were doing the modifications, we returned to town to work with the sales and design folks to create our new slide. They truly build a completely customized product. They worked with us on all the different design issues so I ended up with a slide that incorporates all the features I wanted. I decided to go with a steel rather than aluminum frame for several reasons. — There is only a 10% weight increase due the additional amount of aluminum needed to achieve similar weight ratings. — The cost is significantly less allowing us to add features that we would not have at the higher price of the aluminum model. — I will be able to weld to it if need be. Matt is having drawings of the proposed design sent to us for final approval. You’d have to be dealing with the team at Oliver for service better than this. I highly recommend these folks if you’re looking for a custom slide at prices less than everyone else’s cookie cutter offerings. We drove from southern Idaho to Wisconsin instead of heading straight for Mississippi just to meet with these folks. I feel like it was well worth the extra time and expense to be able to get this level of service and this quality of a product. Tomorrow, we will reinstall the slide and head toward home. We left two days after the rally and headed for Alaska. We’ve driven nearly 13,000 miles and we’re still a thousand miles from home.