STEVEnBETTY

I removed everything from the compartment this morning, expecting rain tonight, I'll see if has a leak. The door leaked, but when I adjusted the latch I thought it stopped, we'll see!

"If it is constantly higher than outside you still have a leak somewhere." The humidity is consistent inside and out but with no ventilation the underside of the mat stays damp to the touch, everywhere else drys out fairly quickly. A gap between the mat or a different mat is what I'm leaning towards, I'm sure damp rid would work but that maybe the last resort. Humidity in this region is a constant, it's nice not having wood structure in the oliver, having dealt with delamination in sob before.

In the outside, street side storage compartment I'm having an issue with condensation under the provided rubber matt. In our area (st louis) the humidity is typically above 60% and the trailer constantly has morning dew inside and out, but as long as you have ventilation everything dries out. Not under that rubber matt, no ventilation, no sunshine! I don't believe it's a leak, ( tightened up the door latch, it did leak) but other than removing the matt, I can't seem to get it to dry out! Suggestions???

Yes Reed, we paid the same price you did, and I sympathize with your concerns, and I guess you can ask for a refund if you felt deceived, but companies change components all the time for various reasons, I've never seen one reduce the price when doing so. I guess it comes down to perceived value, all the research I've done on the pwm vs mppt systems led me to believe that the perceived gains were dependent on extremes in temperature and sunlight, under normal conditions there is virtually no difference between the two. I do wish the Zamp had a separate monitor to keep track of the amps used and replaced and I may add one later if it becomes a concern, but for now I'm very happy with what I have.

Reed, in my opinion I think your asking something from your Zamp controller that none of them can supply, none of them work very well in the shade, 30 percent of 3 amps is still only 1 amp, I for 1 am truly happy with the the zamp system, if you look at previous posts on the blue sky system it can be very complex. I don't know Oliver's true reasoning behind changing over to the zamp system, but from a business standpoint when you have an outside vendor supplied product that people don't understand and have to put time and effort into educating people how to use it, it's time for a change. I haven't had to educate myself on it's use and I'm a firm believer in the k.i.s.s. Principle.

My take on the quality of our Elite ll is outstanding! Is it absolutely perfect no, but I never expected anything hand built by man to be perfect. We were in Hohenwald last week to get some minor issues addressed and the staff took care of everything promptly and efficiently. I realize not everyone has the luxury of returning their camper to Hohenwald for every little issue, but when I first called Jason about an issue, his first response was to try to talk me through it, and if that didn't work take to someone who could fix it. I guess the point I'm trying to make is they go above and beyond to try to make things right. I didn't get the new suction tube installed in my water tank at this time but I was assured that the "fix" is forthcoming, and I believed them!! One of the engineers informed me it will be an easy fix that most fairly competent repairmen can perform on their own, or they will take care of it through outside vendors, but he assured me it will be fixed.

It is a powered antennae, the switch is in the back compartment on the left side, if you don't power it up it will not work very well. We like it, it's comparable to our hd over the air antennae at home, in my back yard in the St. Louis metro area they both get 35 channels.

I used a cell phone app for the level. Actually I'm not that obsessed with level, just running a test, when I camp I use a foot long bubble level inside the refrigerator. The refrigerator is the only component that's sensitive to level, but I think concern only comes into play after extended periods of time. Not sure how long?

I just ran a test on our Ollie #219, with the trl perfectly level and the shower head on and spraying our pump pulled down to 25 on the see level gauge before it quit spraying,jacking the trl up .5 degrees brought it back up to31, again it quit at 25, at 1 degree above level it went back up to 32, and quit at 25. When I brought the trl back to level the see level gauge went to 10 percent, I believe at +1 percent above level the refrigerator is still within its working parameters. If you want the tank completely empty 1 1/2 - 2 percent will do it. I guess the point I'm trying to make is, I don't think the potential risk of damaging the fresh water tank is worth the possible gain, if Oliver comes up with an fix great!!! But until then I don't have an issue with jacking the trl up.

If you are at a campground with full hookups, and simply raising the nose of the trailer to completely drain the gray water tank before leaving for a new destination, that may be ok, not too inconvenient. If you are hooked up to your tow vehicle at a dump station, and you have to unhitch to raise the nose to completely drain the gray water tank, then rehitch to the tow vehicle, how is that an acceptable solution? When we are boondocking I can draw the fresh water tank down to 10-15 percent( 3-4 gallons left in tank) without having to raise the nose of the trl, it's a simple matter to raise the nose of the trl. The front jack is robust enough to raise the trl with your tow vehicle hooked up when dumping your tanks, it has a 3,500 lb capacity, you don't have to lift it very high, just above level works fine.

Just a thought, but have you actually checked to see how much water was left in the tank when the pump started sucking air? Gauges are known to be defective, if you drain the tank at that point and see how much water is actually left you can determine how accurate the gauge is. I would do that before performing surgery.

We took delivery on may 1 (hull #219), have had zero issues, the trl does need an incline to utilize all the fresh water, I would imagine if you talked to Jason they could figure out a way to shim the tank to help with that issue. Over all extremely satisfied.

I guess the point I was trying to make is the progressive dynamics system does more than just protect from surge spikes, the outlet tested ok until it was put under load, the air conditioner would have kept running on low voltage without my knowledge if the "surge protector" had not tripped. Rv parks are notorious for low voltage "brown outs"in the summer when ac use is high, low voltage will kill your ac compressor over time.

Ditto, thanks Randy.

Yesterday I installed the micro air "easy start", when I finished and plugged in my power cord, the air conditioner would run for about 5 minutes and shut down, I have the built in surge protector and I checked the voltage on it while it was running. It had 120 volts on startup and when the ac compressor would kick in it dropped to 102 and the surge protector would trip just like it should, turns out I had a bad outlet on the exterior of my 8year old home. Moral of the story is, the progressive dynamics surge protector save me from potentially burning up my ac compressor!!!

The latches we have on hull 219 are used on the newer Kenworth , Peterbilt, class 8 trucks, to hold the hood closed, the old ones were rubber and you had to stretch them to latch. The latches we have now work much better.

You won't need a second generator, if you install the micro air soft start. All the information you need is at the micro air post.

Pete, thanks for the post. What mesh size screen did you use?

I don't know the alloy content of our wheels, but a good quality polish like Blue magic will make bare aluminum shine just like chrome, I think it will remove minor corrosion like you describe. On the other hand, I doubt Oliver would install "cheap" wheels, they have too good of a reputation to maintain!!

I haven't figured out how to post pictures yet( old geezer, to dumb to learn????) If you open your cabinet look at the back of the latch on the door itself, you'll see a white spacer.

I don't know the alloy content of our wheels, but a good quality polish like Blue magic will polish bare aluminum to look just like chrome, i'm pretty sure it will eliminate minor corrosion like you describe. On the other hand I doubt Oliver would install "cheap" wheels, they have a good image to maintain!!

When we took delivery of our Oliver on may 1, i asked Jason about the issue of the cabinet doors coming open, he showed me their solution. The fix involved putting a spacer in between the inside of the latch and the door itself, they latch quite securely. The spacer appears to be about 1/4 in thick. I'm sure if you contact Jason he would provide you with the details.

To anyone with the generator basket option, can you make a 90 degree turn without hitting your tow vehicle?

Not that I'm aware of.

On the new thermostats if you have ac current and the heat pump installed in the air conditioner (no heat strip from Oliver),when you set the mode to "auto" the thermostat decides weather to engage the air conditioning, heat pump or furnace. If it's cold, the heat pump will come on first, then the furnace takes over if it's too cold.