STEVEnBETTY

I believe he's referring to the inherent strength of an oliver, they tow extremely well, with a low center of gravity and if they are involved in a crash I don't think they'll self destruct like the stick and staple trl in those photos. All trailers are susceptible to sway, and given the right circumstances any of them will roll. Steve

Somebody with a sense of humor! Thanks Steve

John, I agree with your statement about the appliance issues being between you and the manufacturer, however oliver will try to intervene. My story began the day before we were leaving for the spring rally, on my pre trip inspection, I discovered a loose wheel bearing, when I removed the wheel the axle dust cap was rattling around in the hub cap, I had no idea for how long. Needless to say the bearings and races had to be replaced, I replaced them and when I got to the rally and talked to the dexter rep, he said " it happens" and told me to turn it in to oliver. When I got home two weeks later I called Jason and sent a copy of my receipts, one week after that I called and he said dexter denied the claim (out of warranty) give him some time he'll work on it, four days later a check arrived in the mail. Outstanding customer support! Steve

Foy, thank you for your follow up, just another great example of Oliver's outstanding customer support, they could have tried all kinds of jury rigged fixes I.e. Modifying the fenders, re drilling the existing subframe etc... Maniac, I wouldn't overthink this issue, if foy's fenders hadn't been damaged, he would have never known he had an problem, I've towed mine (219) over 12,000 miles and upon hearing of this problem checked my fenders for damage, and when I couldn't find any quit thinking about it. The subframe being located forward or aft a few inches, can change weight distribution by a few pounds (tractor trailers subframes are designed to move several feet to redistribute weight),but as long as nothing is making contact, and the trailer is tracking straight, no harm done. STEVE

We had that same problem, I did the same things you have, with the addition of removing the shower head and flushing out the line. I was getting ready to remove the sink cartridge and soaking it in white vinegar when it just returned to normal. My guess was that it was just a temporary clog. Good luck Steve

I agree with don, we received our cutting board and it's beautiful, thanks again Foy!

If you want something quite a bit stronger than a tension rod, google "load bars", or go to any truck stop and they will have them. Truck drivers use them to hold their cargo in place, they're very strong and extend out to 9 feet or more, they have rubber feet on their pads and shouldn't mar the floor or the ceiling.

One thing you may not have thought of, if you have your refrigerator on the automatic setting, when ac power is introduced the refrigerator will change over from propane to ac power without you noticing it and that can overwhelm a 15 amp circuit.

Looking closer at your picture, I see what your talking about with the bottom corner of the door with no gasket in place, I just walked out and checked mine, it's the same as yours. I haven't had the amount of leakage as you're experiencing. Adding gasket material like bill did would seem to be the best fix, but I don't know about reflectix, automotive weather stripping would seem to be more appropriate.

Readjust the latch, to compress the gasket better. There are two nuts holding the latch in position, loosen the outer nut so the latch can move, then screw the inner nut closer to the compartment door, and then retighten the outer nut back against it. Don't over do it, experiment until you get it right. Steve

Yes we have, the "night" shade on the curb side, and the street side wouldn't retract properly, folded up improperly it left a crease in one of the pleats on the curb side, not really noticeable unless you're looking for it. The solution was to flip the curtains over so the night shade is on the bottom, it works much better that way. Steve

Materials required for modification: two 3/8x 3/4 in bolts, flat washers, nylock nuts.

I haven't had any issues with the battery tray, but just as a safety backup plan I installed a simple stop for the tray. On each side of the slide rails, just beyond where they stop, when the tray is full pushed in and the latch is engaged, I drilled two 3/8 in holes and inserted 2x 3/8x1 in bolts.

Yes, you understand correctly, the regulator on the trailer is sufficient, the BBQ grill or whatever other appliance will still work, but they operate at a lower volume, kind of like you're running out of gas, with two regulators inline.

Thanks Bill, I'm in for level 2 on Saturday, I'll pay you cash when we arrive on Friday.

Matt, thanks for setting this up, I signed up for the zip line Saturday, but I would still like to play on Monday.

I'm fortunate in that when we are at home the oliver is level to the point that if I open the door for the refrigerator it stays in whatever position I leave it in. That is the degree of level that I try to achieve whenever I set up, but I don't get too obsessive about it.

I'm in for level 2, whatever doesn't conflict with golf.

I'm in for Saturday and Monday.

No, you don't have to do anything, the transfer switch automatically changes over to a/c power when you plug in and the converter and solar interact to maintain your batteries.

Now that's funny!

I'll try, this is my understanding of how the zamp works, someone please correct me if I'm wrong. Your batteries are fully charged at 13.2 volts, the monitor we have is just showing charging voltage, when it's charging, without a separate monitor going through a shunt you can't get an accurate percentage of battery left while the battery is being charged, wether its solar or shore power. When you get up first thing in the morning your on board converter (shore power) probably had your batteries in float status at 13.2 volts, when the solar wakes up its going to try to bring the charging voltage up to around 14 volts (in full sunlight)until it goes back into float mode and that blue light will go off, I'm not real sure what that bar across the top does. What I do in lieu of a separate monitor (I agree with Reed Lukens that we should have gotten one, but I digress), if I get up in the middle of the night when there are no loads on the batteries, no lights, tv, etc. I'll check battery status, if we're boondocking, but if you're on shore power it's meaningless because your converter/charger is charging your batteries wether it's in float, bulk or absorb mode, and you can't get an accurate reading when there is active charging going on. On the other hand, I could be completely wrong, and your converter/charger failed and the solar is trying to top off your batteries. Good luck, STEVE.

I use the onboard jacks exclusively, I believe olivers policy on the jack usage is just cya. If I lift the tires off the ground, I'll put blocks under the tires to distribute the weight, if I'm changing a tire a jackstand goes on the subframe or the spring base plate, just common safety practices. Steve

Welcome! We too had a hybrid for about5 years, not a pleasant experience, delamination, water pump wouldn't prime on its own, and condensation out the wazoo in the winter, too many other problems to list. Glad we went with the oliver, it has been relatively trouble free!! Steve