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Everything posted by STEVEnBETTY

  1. We had that same problem, I did the same things you have, with the addition of removing the shower head and flushing out the line. I was getting ready to remove the sink cartridge and soaking it in white vinegar when it just returned to normal. My guess was that it was just a temporary clog. Good luck Steve
  2. I agree with don, we received our cutting board and it's beautiful, thanks again Foy!
  3. If you want something quite a bit stronger than a tension rod, google "load bars", or go to any truck stop and they will have them. Truck drivers use them to hold their cargo in place, they're very strong and extend out to 9 feet or more, they have rubber feet on their pads and shouldn't mar the floor or the ceiling.
  4. One thing you may not have thought of, if you have your refrigerator on the automatic setting, when ac power is introduced the refrigerator will change over from propane to ac power without you noticing it and that can overwhelm a 15 amp circuit.
  5. Looking closer at your picture, I see what your talking about with the bottom corner of the door with no gasket in place, I just walked out and checked mine, it's the same as yours. I haven't had the amount of leakage as you're experiencing. Adding gasket material like bill did would seem to be the best fix, but I don't know about reflectix, automotive weather stripping would seem to be more appropriate.
  6. Readjust the latch, to compress the gasket better. There are two nuts holding the latch in position, loosen the outer nut so the latch can move, then screw the inner nut closer to the compartment door, and then retighten the outer nut back against it. Don't over do it, experiment until you get it right. Steve
  7. Yes we have, the "night" shade on the curb side, and the street side wouldn't retract properly, folded up improperly it left a crease in one of the pleats on the curb side, not really noticeable unless you're looking for it. The solution was to flip the curtains over so the night shade is on the bottom, it works much better that way. Steve
  8. Materials required for modification: two 3/8x 3/4 in bolts, flat washers, nylock nuts.
  9. I haven't had any issues with the battery tray, but just as a safety backup plan I installed a simple stop for the tray. On each side of the slide rails, just beyond where they stop, when the tray is full pushed in and the latch is engaged, I drilled two 3/8 in holes and inserted 2x 3/8x1 in bolts.
  10. Yes, you understand correctly, the regulator on the trailer is sufficient, the BBQ grill or whatever other appliance will still work, but they operate at a lower volume, kind of like you're running out of gas, with two regulators inline.
  11. Thanks Bill, I'm in for level 2 on Saturday, I'll pay you cash when we arrive on Friday.
  12. Matt, thanks for setting this up, I signed up for the zip line Saturday, but I would still like to play on Monday.
  13. I'm fortunate in that when we are at home the oliver is level to the point that if I open the door for the refrigerator it stays in whatever position I leave it in. That is the degree of level that I try to achieve whenever I set up, but I don't get too obsessive about it.
  14. No, you don't have to do anything, the transfer switch automatically changes over to a/c power when you plug in and the converter and solar interact to maintain your batteries.
  15. I'll try, this is my understanding of how the zamp works, someone please correct me if I'm wrong. Your batteries are fully charged at 13.2 volts, the monitor we have is just showing charging voltage, when it's charging, without a separate monitor going through a shunt you can't get an accurate percentage of battery left while the battery is being charged, wether its solar or shore power. When you get up first thing in the morning your on board converter (shore power) probably had your batteries in float status at 13.2 volts, when the solar wakes up its going to try to bring the charging voltage up to around 14 volts (in full sunlight)until it goes back into float mode and that blue light will go off, I'm not real sure what that bar across the top does. What I do in lieu of a separate monitor (I agree with Reed Lukens that we should have gotten one, but I digress), if I get up in the middle of the night when there are no loads on the batteries, no lights, tv, etc. I'll check battery status, if we're boondocking, but if you're on shore power it's meaningless because your converter/charger is charging your batteries wether it's in float, bulk or absorb mode, and you can't get an accurate reading when there is active charging going on. On the other hand, I could be completely wrong, and your converter/charger failed and the solar is trying to top off your batteries. Good luck, STEVE.
  16. I use the onboard jacks exclusively, I believe olivers policy on the jack usage is just cya. If I lift the tires off the ground, I'll put blocks under the tires to distribute the weight, if I'm changing a tire a jackstand goes on the subframe or the spring base plate, just common safety practices. Steve
  17. Welcome! We too had a hybrid for about5 years, not a pleasant experience, delamination, water pump wouldn't prime on its own, and condensation out the wazoo in the winter, too many other problems to list. Glad we went with the oliver, it has been relatively trouble free!! Steve
  18. I'm not a tech, but I think that your flush valve is leaking. When you press down on the pedal that opens the valve, water is pushed through the vacuum breaker and into the toilet bowl, if water is constantly flowing into the bowl the valve is leaking and the vacuum breaker is not preventing the water from siphoning back to the valve. One other thing you might try, when you flush, let the flush lever snap back, it might just reseat the valve. Steve
  19. Just curious, have you resolved the leaking toilet issue? What did you do to fix it? Steve
  20. That appears to be the underside of your flush valve, my guess is that either the valve isn't properly seated, or the valve is bad/ cracked. You might try grabbing the back of the valve itself ( where the hose attaches) and pushing it in. If that doesn't work it looks to be pretty straightforward to replace it, you're under warranty, oliver will pay to replace it as long as it didn't crack from freezing.
  21. STEVE, I am very interested in this installation, if you would post pictures and instructions I would be very appreciative, thanks. Steve
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