STEVEnBETTY

Tessa roadster, 0 to 60 1.9 seconds!!!! Think of all the testosterone!!

Hello, If you contact Oliver directly they will do the search for an owner for you!

Ditto!

If you go way back on the forum posts another owner had temp probes inside the trailer and in between the hulls, if I remember correctly there was only a 10? degree temp difference between the hulls. On the twin bed model there is a vent below the street side bed, it looks like a register in your house, it's not hooked up to anything. When it's cold just open that vent and warm air from the cabin should circulate in between the hulls.

IMHO draining the chrome flex line by gravity should be sufficient, as the hose is the only external part, everything else is inside.

What he said!!! I have hull #219, the one right after John's and have not experienced anything near what him or Reed have talked about, they're trailers must have been built on a "Friday". My attempt at humor, but seriously these are well built trailers that are assembled by humans, are they " perfect", no but Oliver will definitely try to make it so!

As long as there is no water in the hose between the valve,( which is inside the trailer) and the shower nozzle, you should be ok. If you use the outside shower make sure you drain that line.

"The difference between men and boys is the price........." nice man cave, looks like you have plenty of hobbies!

Sorry, here's the other picture.

Here's the pictures of the ground wire I ran for my front jack, the wire is an 8 ga multi strand. [attachment file=IMG_0473.JPG]

Try running an additional ground wire from the frame to the base of the jack, we had a similar problem, while operating the jack I heard a popping sound ( it sounded like an electrical arc), the jack quit working but the courtesy light still came on, both fuses were good, turn out to be insufficient ground.

Alex, congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the "family". I second Reeds recommendation on the inverter, ac power when you're boondocking can be very handy.

Hi Alex, welcome! In my opinion the standard hot water heater is fine, it's simple, straight forward, and it works! We've never run out of hot water ( especially when boondocking) and if it breaks parts are readily available. The zamp solar is Oliver's system of choice, if you read back through prior posts you'll find that the owners with the blue sky system are happy with it,but it can be very complicated to set up and operate. We have the zamp system and I'm happy with it, the longest we have went without power (boondocking) is 8 consecutive days and the zamp system had our batteries (agm) fully charged at the end of every day, full disclosure; we were in full sun and it was sunny every day. My wife did engage the inverter to make toast with an electric toaster, and cook dinner with the microwave. We are pretty conservative with power and it works for us. The easy start does work as advertised, we run our ac with a 2000 watt Honda generator. Good luck with your choices, it's a fun process, and I think you will be happy with the results!

Not Mike, but the method that works best for me; When we go to dump, if the tanks are not "full" we add more water, the key is sufficient water for a good flush, then when you use the back flush feature I close the black tank valve and fill to approximately 3/4 then drain until it runs clear, if I feel it needs more I do it again, experiment, see what works for you. I don't use chemicals in the tank, if you use enough water to clean it, it doesn't smell.

We have hull#219, it has continuity at the plug and is charging. You may get a full 14 volts to your trl but not necessarily, it depends on you tow vehicles wiring.

Don't know about your water leak, but you don't have to reconfigure your valves to use your on board water supply, unless they're set to winterize. Put them back in their original position. When you hook up to the city water portOn your trl the water will come out of your fixtures without having to turn on your water pump, if you fill up your fresh water tank( the other port) you just turn on your pump and water should flow.

The Honda 2000 watt generator will run your a/c when used in conjunction with the easy start run capacitor. The on board converter controls the electrical useage through the shore power connection. I guess I'm the sole dissenter on the use of the zamp solar system, I do wish that oliver had installed a separate battery monitor with the system, but overall I'm happy with the setup. I don't have anywhere near the experience as other posters on this forum, but I go with the k.i.s.s. System for electronics especially. The longest we have boon docked has been 8 consecutive days and our zamp system brought our batteries up to full every day, we're pretty conservative on our energy usage, but we use the microwave, run a electric toaster, and my wife uses her hair dryer( not all at the same time or necessarily in the same day) hope this helps with your decision.

I like my Zamp system, just spent 8 consecutive days boondocking, with the max fan on 24/7, inverter on making toast and my wife drying her hair, batteries were fully recharged (went into float) no later than 4 everyday. I considered hooking up a battery monitor, but don't feel a need for it right now.

Try running a separate ground to the jack.

No, it's not hooked up.

<p style="text-align: right;">Any 2000 watt generator should start the ac with the "soft start" installed, I prefer the Honda, none of them will power more than just the ac at any given time, the ac draws around 1500 watts by itself. The adapter John is talking about can be installed on the end of the power cord provided by Oliver, it's 15 amp, the weak part of the setup, but it will work. I took an old 30amp rv cord and removed and replaced both plugs with a 30amp locking female and a 20 amp male, works great. You can put an adapter on the trailer, and use a heavy extension cord like John does, but again they're 15 amps, either method will work.</p>

We have hull# 219, I installed the soft start myself and the 2ooo watt, 20 amp Honda runs the ac just fine. My thinking was I didn't need the 30 amp companion generator be cause I don't need to pair it with another one.

Disregard my previous post, bad information, you have to remove the toilet to get at the tee bolts, they're attached to the flange. It doesn't look like a big job, but I would have thought they were stainless steel, I don't know that Oliver is at fault ( hardware supplied by vendor) but I'm sure they'll take care of it.

No experience with Airstream, but a positive experience with Oliver!

You should be able to just replace the bolt, as long as the toilet seal is intact, not leaking. That's indeed surprising it seems everything else is stainless. The porcelain will clean right up with 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper.