mountainoliver

Both of my drain valves were extremely difficult to open and close as well. I used some silicone plumbers grease (the same stuff that I use on the toilet flush valve) and coated the metal rod that the cable connects to. The valves now operate very easily. Probably better than when new.

John, three words tell the story “made in china”! I used to have a giant pack of T&B wire ties. They had a stainless steel ratchet piece molded in. Once you pulled them tight you could not get them to loosen. They even lasted forever outside. It’s a different world now.

Nothing like good ol’ rich two cycle smoke. It keeps the bugs away. Maybe you were referring to something like this?

There was an earlier question about removing the old fridge. I had quite a bit of trouble with the original fridge (as many on the forums can testify to) so was extremely happy to get rid of it but still was very careful about it’s removal. 🤪

My Dometic came out through the door but I had to remove the cooling unit from the back of the fridge and reassemble it outside. For the new fridge I had to take the screen door off its hinges and remove the fridge door and the hinges. There was 1/4 inch clearance moving the new fridge in. The new fridge has quite a bit more room than the Dometic fridge because it is so deep.

During the day I can’t hear it, at night there’s a slight hum. Like a household fridge but much less. I mainly hear the 5 inch computer fan that’s installed on the fridge.

Wow! Great job and good looking installation. I know that you will really like the new fridge. Glad to have been able to be of assistance. We never have to even think about the fridge, it just does its thing without worrying about outside temperature or if it’s level or bugs/dust getting into the camper through outside vents. You absolutely will never regret the changeover!

Bill, yes there are. The farm manager said that there’s so many that you hardly need bait!

While on our way west for three months we’re volunteering at Stratford Ecological farm outside of Columbus Ohio. This is our campsite for the next week.

Longview? I attended one year of college in Longview, just across the road from Gibsons. I’m sure everything has changed since 1974!

I had a similar potential major issue several years ago in a campground with multiple extreme voltage spikes. The voltage was spiking to almost 200 volts and the EMS saved the camper from damage. I called the Progressive Industries folks and told them of the issue and that the EMS was seven years old. They still sent me two new circuit boards at no cost. I’d give them a call and get new replacement boards. After an event like you experienced, I wouldn’t take any chances using the old boards even if the system seems to be working properly. I had to end up requesting several new boards because the Progressive Industries folks kept sending the boards in just a little bubble wrap and in an envelope. Several arrived crushed or otherwise broken. I explained to the contact person that they really should be sending the boards out in boxes but they didn’t seem to care. Anyway, I ended up with two new working boards.

So is the “fiberglass landing” actually part of the roof construction or is it an additional molded fiberglass piece bonded/glued to the roof? The reason I ask is if it is a separate piece we could purchase it from Oliver and glue it in place to support the air conditioner. If it’s part of the roof on the newer models……well I’d have to use part of a new roof gasket for support. Thanks

Yes, I removed the USB port from under the dinette and moved it to over the bed. One bed had an overhead USB port and the other one didn’t.

Seven years ago I added a master switch for the leveling jacks. I disconnect the power to the jacks whenever the camper is parked. My hope is that with three jacks firmly down it will be much more difficult to steal. Thankfully, as far as I know no one has ever tried my theory.

Unfortunately another rally site will be available on 3-5-25. We are unable to attend the 2025 rally and site E18 will be available this afternoon. The site is currently reserved for 4-23-25 through 5-7-25. You will need to contact the Lake Guntersville Campground office directly.

Yes, I upgraded mine about 6 years ago. The 2017’s came with 5/16 curly cables that were difficult to connect and connected to the tongue with 3/8 bolts and thin fender washers. This setup would have never held in a disconnected trailer situation. I used 3/8 grade 70 chains and equivalent hooks. The chain is attached to the trailer tongue with 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts. I don’t think this arrangement will fail. Years ago I did some research into trailer safety chains for a monthly newsletter that I was doing for an antique farm equipment collectors club. Basically, you are legally responsible for your trailer including if it becomes disconnected from your tow vehicle and causes property damage and/or injury or death. Some folks say that if there is an accident that they would rather have the trailer break free and not be close to their tow vehicle. This is completely wrong.

I forgot to mention the reasons that prompted my basement exploration. The floor had collapsed and upon inspection I found that the floor supports were only held in place by a few screws that only were about 1/4 inch into the side supports. I was also getting propane exhaust fumes into the trailer when the water heater was running. Anyway, in checking out the collapsed floor and the carbon monoxide issue I discovered the air leaks and lack of insulation.

I’ve had a similar issue since the camper was new. A couple of years ago I removed the aluminum Z shaped panel that closes off the rear of the trailer. This panel is located deep inside the rear bumper and the sewer drain passes through it. Mine was not sealed at all and the rubber seal around the sewer line was loose. To do a thorough job of sealing the panel you’ll need to go into the basement area as well. In doing this I also found a large area in the basement area with no insulation, especially the aluminum panel had no insulation. I used butyl tape caulk all around the aluminum panel and a long piece of angle aluminum to stabilize the raw fiberglass edge around the upper edge and stainless screws/self locking nuts through the fiberglass and the panel. The wooden dowel/screwdriver/vise grip pliers was used to hold the screws in place while I tightened the nylock nut from the outside. I also added insulation everywhere I could. Just a suggestion.

The Amazon remote that you show is exactly like the one that came with my trailer. The useless tiny Furrion remote also came with the trailer. I thought that both remotes came standard with the trailer?

Mike, why don’t you just use some of the leftover orange shag carpet from your Chevy van project? 🤣

Here is the Blue Sky settings as given to me by the Battle Born folks four years ago. I have shared these settings with Steve and others over the past few years and Steve is correct about the IPN Pro set up but once you have been through it, it’s pretty easy. I think it took all of about five minutes to program these settings. The settings are also good no matter what lithium battery brand you choose. Several years ago Battle Born seemed to be the best choice but today there are several brands that are of high quality.

The assembly in the right side of the photo sort of looks like a fuse. The main cable looks like it is attached to the upper end of the shunt then from the lower end of the shunt crosses over to the lower end of the fuse/junction block, through the fuse/junction block and out into the world. Maybe?

Except for the fact that the best way to ge loctite to release is to apply heat. The heat of a normally operating engine for example is not enough but say a propane torch or propane gas stove is I’d imagine is ample enough heat to release the loctite.

Just curious, why would I want to run the air conditioning wide open then immediately run the heat wide open? If I did that with my home heat pump/air conditioner I think that the same thing would happen. I don’t think that I remember that the air conditioner was run then the heat pump. I can understand now why a huge amount of humidity is cycled into the trailer. Maybe that explains why the Atmos unit cooled down the trailer and reduced the humidity even though the fan was running continuously, it was allowed to run a normal air conditioning cycle. Thanks for the explanation, much appreciated.

John, I never said that I was a non believer! I just asked the question hoping that the issue could be explained clearly. I’m not on either side of the issue.