mountainoliver

The Amazon remote that you show is exactly like the one that came with my trailer. The useless tiny Furrion remote also came with the trailer. I thought that both remotes came standard with the trailer?

Mike, why don’t you just use some of the leftover orange shag carpet from your Chevy van project? 🤣

Here is the Blue Sky settings as given to me by the Battle Born folks four years ago. I have shared these settings with Steve and others over the past few years and Steve is correct about the IPN Pro set up but once you have been through it, it’s pretty easy. I think it took all of about five minutes to program these settings. The settings are also good no matter what lithium battery brand you choose. Several years ago Battle Born seemed to be the best choice but today there are several brands that are of high quality.

The assembly in the right side of the photo sort of looks like a fuse. The main cable looks like it is attached to the upper end of the shunt then from the lower end of the shunt crosses over to the lower end of the fuse/junction block, through the fuse/junction block and out into the world. Maybe?

Except for the fact that the best way to ge loctite to release is to apply heat. The heat of a normally operating engine for example is not enough but say a propane torch or propane gas stove is I’d imagine is ample enough heat to release the loctite.

Just curious, why would I want to run the air conditioning wide open then immediately run the heat wide open? If I did that with my home heat pump/air conditioner I think that the same thing would happen. I don’t think that I remember that the air conditioner was run then the heat pump. I can understand now why a huge amount of humidity is cycled into the trailer. Maybe that explains why the Atmos unit cooled down the trailer and reduced the humidity even though the fan was running continuously, it was allowed to run a normal air conditioning cycle. Thanks for the explanation, much appreciated.

John, I never said that I was a non believer! I just asked the question hoping that the issue could be explained clearly. I’m not on either side of the issue.

I’ll say yes. My trailer is outside 24/7/365 and has been since being purchased in 2017. I have washed/waxed it at least twice a year over the years and gradually the shine had disappeared. When I’d do a thorough job, it would take me four days. No telling how many times I’d move the ladder or how many times I would climb up and down it. One of the last times I washed/waxed it I fell off of the ladder, hit the rear bumper and ladder on the way down to my asphalt driveway. I was lucky enough not to break anything. Since having the trailer coated it is much easier to wash and a quick spritz of the CGI magic elixir and it shines better than new. More important than the shine is the long term protection of the gelcoat. Additionally, as everyone else has said, is the fact that the CGI guys are the finest group of guys that you’ll ever meet.

Ronbrink, thanks for showing/demonstrating your great installation of the Atmos air conditioner! I have a question though, not so much for you as it is for the Houghton second generation folks. The major issue with the second generation Houghton is that the evaporator fan (inside fan) runs continuously and supposedly raises the inside humidity level. Yet the Atmos unit (at least in Texas) operates the same and significantly reduced the humidity in the camper with a fairly significant amount of condensate running off of the camper roof. What am I missing? What’s different?

John, I just used a ratchet and a short section of pipe (cheater) and got it really tight. They are not a critical item so just get them tight. When at home I have several different Williams hook wrenches that should hook into the groove to hold the center tube from turning. I’ll get them properly tightened then. For now I just wanted to make sure that they’d stay tight until we get home.

We pulled into a campground for the night in Ft. Stockton Texas, I started to unhitch and noticed that the front jack foot was loose. I tightened it and checked the other two. The rear ones were tight. I checked them all right after we purchased our trailer in 2017 and haven’t thought about them since. Probably something to check periodically and will add some blue loctite to each bolt. Probably not good to lose one, at least I’d hate to run over one.

Okay, that’s our definitive answer. Anytime someone is evasive in answering a direct question it only means one thing and one thing only. They are not proud of where their product is made and that means china! Okay, TruRide is off my list. I can buy less expensive china made springs most anywhere. The cheap ones I bought with u bolts, nuts, and bronze bushings are for emergency roadside replacement just to get me home. When I can go to Colorado I’ll get the USA made springs and not need the emergency spares. Those will go in the yard sale pile. Less junk to haul around.

99.999% probability that they are of chinese origin with steel from a ‘59 Buick. So on the bright side they may in fact be made of mostly USA steel. 🤪

Sorry I can’t directly help with your issue but my Dometic fridge would not run reliably on propane either. The Oliver folks tried everything and replaced everything, even replacing the fridge with a new one and it still wouldn’t run reliably on propane. I’m sure they thought that I was doing something wrong but many friends saw the issues while boondocking. I finally just replaced it with a compressor fridge. Best decision ever, five years and zero issues. Seems like a lot of mainstream brands are switching over to compressor type fridges now that lithium batteries and solar power are more mainstream as well. And, hope with the help of other Norcold owners you can get to the bottom of this issue.

We’re sort of finishing up our late summer/fall four month western trip. We’re at Lost Dutchman State Park enjoying the 110 degree weather! There’s another Oliver here as well but we haven’t seen the owners yet. While on this trip we’ve seen Olivers at our Monument Valley campground and at our Grand Canyon south rim campground but unfortunately never were able to make contact with either one. We also met up with a fairly new Oliver owner while we were at Dead Horse Ranch State Park in Cottonwood and had a very enjoyable day with them. Not too many years ago we could be on one of our four month trips and never see another Oliver trailer. Now we see at least one on every trip. Great to see more Olivers on the road. Looking forward to meeting a bunch more in Texas in a couple of weeks. Safe travels everyone!

Okay got it! Not a telephone type wire/connectors. Mine must be the only one that was wired using telephone type wire and connectors.

So, for clarity, your thermostat wiring is a three wire cable not a telephone type cable with a telephone type plug on each end.

Ronbrink, do you have a little bit better view of the overall area/location/description of where the old Dometic control box is placed in the new ac unit? The close ups are great but I’m not understanding the location. Also, does your factory installed thermostat have individual wires or like mine, does it use a telephone type wire? Thanks

That looks like a great deal. The two spares that I purchased from Dexter are made in china and all of the springs that they sell are made in china. Probably most if not all of the really inexpensive ones from Amazon are also made in china. Had I stumbled across this supplier with USA made springs of this capacity I would have purchased all four and just replaced them all. I’ll probably do that this winter whenever we get back home from our trip. I don’t have any complaints about the current spring capacity so I’ll stick with the 1750# springs.

That looks strangely familiar! Good looking installation. I know that you’re going to really like the performance of the new fridge. No more fussing around with trying to get it to maintain temperature, etc.

Along with everything else that has been suggested, recheck the toilet flange to make sure that it isn’t cracked. Mine started to smell on occasion and a little at a time then gradually became worse. I found out that the cheesy plastic flange was cracked, allowing sewer gas to escape and eventually liquid as well. I replaced mine with a stainless steel flange and fastened it down using all six available mounting holes with #14 stainless screws.

I’m not sure on why the Furrion inlet itself is only rated at 10 amps even though (I think) #10 wire is used. Also it just occurred to me that in the DC world for longer wire runs it’s a good idea to use large wire to reduce the losses. Maybe that’s why they use larger wire than really needed even though the plug itself is the limiting factor? I must have read somewhere that the inlet and the available Cnlinko plugs were rated at 10 amps. That may have been my deciding factor for choosing a 10 amp fuse. Seems like I recall that when I was searching for a suitable inlet that they were mostly rated at 10 amps. I probably didn’t dig deeper into it at the time because my small panels weren’t going cause any issues. At the time I only wanted a small easy to carry/store portable panel to supplement the Oliver panels. Even though I can run my air conditioner on my 300 amp/hr batteries I don’t really consider doing that because it would take an unreasonable amount of time to recharge the batteries. In recent years the prospect of running an air conditioner for a meaningful amount of time has become a reality with the large capacity batteries and large solar panels which I have neither unfortunately. Good question though.

My Furrion/Cnlinko inlet is an older design. The socket itself is all metal the new ones are plastic. When I ordered mine, Furrion advertised the metal version but sold the plastic version both with the same model number. I called Furrion and the guy I talked to sent me another plastic version and a cable tv inlet. After further conversation, he found a metal version in someone’s desk in their office and sent that one to me. Apparently they no longer make the metal version. By the way, the Furrion/Cnlinko solar inlet has the same mounting hole pattern as the Furrion power inlet if interested.

Ronbrink, why am I using a 10 amp fuse? My portable solar panels are 100 watts total. That’s all I needed. I haven’t looked at the plug/socket amp rating but that may be 10 amps.

John, the Blue Sky solar controller is supposed to be mounted vertically (I think according to the manual) but that’s not practical every time. I added a fan and a snap type temperature sensor. I don’t remember the on and off temps but typically this type of sensor has a 30 deg dead band. The fan only draws about a tenth of an amp and run it on a one amp fuse. I added some slots in the plastic box for the air to pass through and this setup has made a huge difference in the temperature.