mountainoliver

The photo in my previous post rotated 90 deg when placed in the paragraph, sorry!

My ‘17 Tundra tailgate would hit the Bulldog latch. The truck would sag under load but the trailer was level using the Anderson in it’s highest position. I installed the Firestone air bags to level the truck and was able to lower the hitch one hole so that the trailer is still level. The tailgat now clears by a couple inches. I didn’t have to make much if any change to the Anderson adjustment due to the fact that the relative position between the hitch and trailer remains the same. The air bags require about 15 pounds for a level truck/trailer. I fabricated a manifold so that I can add air to either side or both air bags and have a built in gauge to check the pressure. I also mounted an old Coleman air compressor next to the manifold for adding air, and plug the compressor in the trailer connector as needed.

Not on hard surface roads but many times in snow or in muddy or wet grassy fields with my old truck. Once pulled out a utility trailer loaded with 15 fairly new cross ties and 15 in the truck bed. (Roughly 300 lbs each x 30) Old truck 1996 Dodge 3/4 ton, 12valve Cummins, and 4x4. There was a modification to that truck to enable two wheel drive low. Which is ideal in situations such as you described. When we bought our Oliver we also bought a new Tundra 4x4 with the 5.7L engine. More refined than the old Dodge. I don’t think the Tundra has the center differential. I do sometimes miss that old Dodge though!

<p style="text-align: left;">We also have that app but thought that there may be some favorites out there. We’ll be in the national forest around Ludington</p>

Thanks guys, maybe we can catch up again for barbecue!

We’re going into the south/central area of Michigan soon and would appreciate finding out about your favorite campgrounds and boondocking sites. We’ve traveled in this area by car before and noticed that there are very many parks. Some look nice online some not so much. Thanks!

That’s great news! Owning the finest camping trailer built is a real pleasure! There will be few things that “have” to be done which, will leave more time for relaxing, traveling, or planning.

We’re looking for recommendations for good campgrounds and boondocking areas in southern Michigan. Thanks for any suggestions.

We experienced some dampness and mold under the pantry side mattress. This took place during a western trip this past winter. I understand that this is due to moisture transmission thru the latex mattress while sleeping. The basement area underneath on this side is not heated nearly as much as the basement area under the other bed thus causing condensation under this mattress. We have been using the Hypervent material for several months now. Yes there is some scuffing taking place from the Hypervent material but wouldn’t say the surface is being scratched. We’ll see how well this works in ventilating under the mattress this winter. I also added a small 12 volt fan in the basement under the kitchen side bed to move some of the heat from this side under the floor and to the other side. We’ll see if this also helps reduce condensation this winter.

Yes, the Easy Start will always help the AC start. This is exactly why I would think that the campgrounds and RV parks would want Dometic and other manufacturers to use the Easy Start as a standard. Require less current at startup and extend compressor life equals a win-win.

Mike is correct but remember that either the 2000i or the 2200i will only run the AC alone. The Micro-Air soft start only reduces the heavy load at startup. The running amps will still remain the same. My AC unit draws 14 amps running which includes around 2 amps for the fan. So either of the small generators will be nearly maxed out running the AC. When running the AC with a small generator, make sure any/all other 110 volt items are off.

Mike, just received my magnets from Amazon and installed them with Command tape. I have been looking for something just like this to replace the bungee cord that I have been using. This works great and looks much better, thanks!

I bought the Telesteps 1600EP OSHA compliant ladder thru Amazon. Made a storage bag from indoor/outdoor carpet with the bottom side in and closed with Velcro. When using the ladder I place the bag over the top of the ladder to prevent scratching the camper. It stores in the closet on the bathroom wall side just under the vent pipe. I have two Command hooks on the wall and use nylon string to secure it in place.

With most any generator you will need to connect the ground and neutral together. If you don’t, the onboard Progressive Industries surge protector will not allow power into the camper. If you get on the Progressive Industries website they talk extensively about this very issue, among other pertinent camper related power issues.

I believe they’re 1/2in plywood with thin fiberglass sheet laminated to both sides.

Due to the propane enclosure and the main trailer body being separate I could easily see the relative movement between the two. When the trailer stopped, I could see some flexing. I would expect to see a little but, what I saw was way too much so I looked under the tongue area.

With all of your electrical adapters, make sure you have a neutral/ground bonding plug for the generator. If not, the built in surge suppressor won’t allow power from the generator into the camper. A good multimeter may also come in handy as well. Sounds like a fantastic trip home. I know you’ll enjoy the Oliver!

Yes, the two kits that I bought from Oliver were the Redline ones. Pre packaged with everything needed: both inside and outside bearings (cup and cone), seal, spindle nut (I think), washer, and cotter pin. I store these in a ziplock bag with desiccant bag for protection. I too hope to never need to use these while on the road.

I asked for two bearing kits at trailer pick up. They were only $11.00 each. I also requested that the ez flex be greased before pick up. The red grease I selected was based on what Dexter recommended for the bearings and what my truck manufacturer recommended for the universal joints. The ez flex is not that picky about what grease is used so I wanted to carry only one type that would be proper for both the truck U joints and the trailer wheel bearings and yet be readily available at automotive parts stores. I ended up with Valvoline No.W615 in 14.1 oz tubes.

I carry two bearing/seal sets (enough for two wheels). I also carry the tools to install them. That would be a steel drift, a brass drift about 1/2 dia. x 6 to 8 inches long, and a steel plate 6 x 6 by about one inch thick to support the hub when driving the bearings/seal in or out. I hope to never have to use these while on the road! I also carry a small electrical parts kit with crimp on terminals etc., a handful of each size fuse that is used, and a couple spools of 16 ga. wire.

Another owner told me about “Captain Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure”. This a sealer that is as thin as water and able to wick into very small cracks. If you clean the gasket edge and apply the sealer with a small artist brush the streaking will stop. It’s about the color of milk but dries clear. I have applied the sealer a couple of times over the past year. Because water naturally drips around the light fixture edges, you’ll still have some dirt streaks that can be seen but these wash off much easier.

Don, it is fairly straightforward as the instructions say. I serviced mine several months ago. The front jack is a little tricky, just remove the outer plastic cover then the actual gear case cover. The only awkward part is the motor power wires pass through the gear case. You’ll see this when you get into it, not difficult. The two rear jacks are easy. Just remove the four gear case cover screws and lift off the cover. Push down on the square shaft that protrudes from the cover as you lift the cover. That will keep the gear in place. In case the intermediate gear stays in the cover, go slowly and turn the cover over slowly so as not to drop anything. You’ll see all this as you go. Don’t be afraid of it you can do it. I added more white grease to each jack. I didn’t think that initially there was enough there. Also, as suggested add some to the bearings. One of my jacks was fairly noisy so the extra grease really helped.

I think that it is really just an electric actuated gate valve that in manual version is the “T” handle that resides in front of the toilet. That valve closes the sink/shower drain so that grey water does not slosh into the shower pan or beyond while traveling. The switch (at least on the 2018 show model) is located inside the closet.

When I purchased my truck a year ago it did not have an installed rear anti-sway bar but, one was given to me as part of the deal. Driving home and around on back roads for the next couple weeks the truck was uneasy around curves. After I installed the bar kit it drove more like it was on rails. Huge difference. Definitely helps.

I tow with a 2017 Tundra 4 x 4 and the tailgate does hit the hitch latch. Even with padding I can’t really access the truck bed. If I climbed onto the tailgate the padded latch would still dent it.