Geronimo John

Short answer: No. Long Answer: The Anderson Chains are under very high tension when properly loaded. I would guess something on the order of 1500 pounds. Since the force vector of those combined maybe 3,000 pounds of tension is resisted by the ball, and the ball is say a foot above the chains, you have 3,000 foot pounds of torque list the rear and pushing down on the TV. The ball sees only the 3000 pounds of thrust horizontally from the chains. The truck sees the opposite force at the whale plate in the opposite direction. This creates a huge amount of torque due to the one foot separation between the two. With my TV loaded and not connected to Ollie, the front axle is about 400 pounds lighter than the rear axles. With the Anderson in play, they are almost exactly equal. If I have a 400 pound delta X 20' long lever arm, that says the torque would be 8,000 foot-pounds. That would lead one to conclude that my WAG of a combined 3,000 pounds of force appears to be well understated. What do yo see on the scales as far as front end weight change with and without the Anderson in play??

I suspect that he is concerned about needing to do an absolute clean off of the HDG material for a critical structural weld. The threshold for "Well Enough" in this case needs to be very very high. Axle Info: 2018 LE2 #342 SC 50.5, D35 Original axle capacity

Our older Ollies have absorption based refrigerator systems. They have an open flame burner that drives the refrigeration process. If the system has a combustion issue, it will generate CO. If you have critters flying into the cabin via the refer vents, your box is no longer sealed properly. That could for sure put you and others at risk. Seriously recommend you: Replace your CO/Propane Detector if there is any doubt about it's age or in our case with these type of refrigerators if the detector is over 4 years old. Reseal the combustion area from the cabin area. Most of us use Foil Tape. Buy 3M foil tape. GJ

Thanks for the update. Certainly we are all glad that they continue to stand up and make it right!

Chris: I have CONFIRMED that Dexter does make the D60 5200's with the SC of 50". They have been in use at OTT in some hulls under #100. GJ

Lori: While you are down there, check that the power is still firmly connected to the pump. We seem to have more than a few owners with loose power plugin's this year. I believe that if you see the LED "i am on" light at both the bathroom and above the stove area, then you have power going to the pump. But if that plug is vibrated a bit loose the pump may run and then not run depending on what mood the connector is in at that moment. If it is not firm, pull it apart and for grins check for any corrosion. A small nail file has helped me out in the past. Geronimo John

Mine has been a tired hose bibb gasket on my water transfer hose and/or the hose was not tight on the Ollie boondock connection. GJ

I can't wait to see the GIF that a certain Moderator is sure to post! LOL GJ

Now I understand why the new Oliver's cost so much. Its the cost of bandwidth we consume on the web! Street legal 250cc Enduro with a X2 seat and super duty bulldog shocks and Alcan springs! Oh, with a lithium battery and a Truma hand washing station. GJ

This thread is a follow-up thread of John & Debbie's 3500 pound vs. 5200 pound axles on a LE2. In this thread my intent is to discuss the type of lubrication system/processes that Dexter offers in axles for out OTT's. Old school is the tried and proven manual annual cleaning and greasing of axle bearings with a seal replacement. Yes an annual PITA. Then Dexter began making their EZ-Lube and NevRLube axle lubrication systems. They apparently have stopped offering the old school design. So if you want a new axle it will be EZ or NevRLube designs. With many owners choosing to retrofit their Ollies with the 5200's, it was stated that there have been zero failures of the new NevRLube axles. This simply is not an informed statement. There has not been a lot of knowledge in our area, but for other trailer designs the NevRLube' S were a disaster. Both designs have their challenges. Here are some opinions from outside our egg shell: https://www.gdrvowners.com/forum/operation/suspension-amp-brakes/95041-dexter-nev-r-lube/page2 So what are your thoughts as they apply to our OTT's specifically? GJ PS: I have made up my mind, but will withhold that decision to foster communications and responses.

Super good idea on the easy adjust method. I'll be doing a check of the brakes during bearing and seal service. Have wanted to lube all those slide and pivit points for several years. Just always didn't have the time to do so. I checked out the cost of Brake shoes: About $80 each = $240 That's unbelievably high. Cost of complete Brake Plate with shoes: About $100 each = $400 Cost of Upgrade to 5200's from SW Wheel Web Site: $2,000 Base Axle $551 Timkin Upgrade $70 U-Bolt Kit $34 Springs N/A I'll continue with my Dexter 2400's Parts Per Axle $1408 ($655 X 2 X 1.075 =$1408) Assume Install $600 ($300/axle) For a trailer in it's 8th season, I would not buy shoes at that cost. The replacement of the entire Dexter made brake assembly makes more sense. When one considers that I have so far spent 8 days of my time doing bearing service (One day per season), plus the costs of lube, bearings and seals, and the benefits of the 5200's, I can now understand why so many owners are looking at that direction. IF or WHEN I get to the point of needing shoes, it will likely be the trigger to decision to just go with the 5200's. s If it's not in July, then I'll do the full clean, disassembly, and lube and get another season or two out of them. Either way, I look forward to seeing a demo of the adjustment you mentioned! Would love to get a PM of the ALCAN costs. GJ

My family and I have had way over a dozen trailers. Most had boats on them, and one was a pop-up. As we approached retirement we knew we had had enough wave rocking and flapping canvas and needed a serious upgrade. So compared to all my previous experiences, the Ollie windows are super fantastic! Especially now that I have seen Chris's video!!! LOL GJ

Good idea. Maybe first a dry clean using compressed air on the high side and a wet/dry vac on the low side. Then do it wet with some dawn soap clean process with the hot water tank wand and a wet/dry vac involved. Both aided by poking with extra long pipe cleaners. Problem is we only have two hands...... GJ

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ALL: With the reorg at OTT, their experienced staff is taking on new and higher level roles. This nearly always entails a transition period with learning curve opportunities such as the above. I think this issue is a classic example of corporate change. The above owner discussions went a bit off the tracks. It is unfortunate that the "atmosphere" had gotten where it did during the delay. I appreciate seeing Jason E. stepping in and calming the waters, as he has effectively done periodically over the years. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Dan: I think you missed an important point that Mike made. He suggested you measure the distance between two points. He then basically stated that if it was welded wrong, that it would be a Barker warranty claim. In this regard he is factually and ethically correct. Granted it could have been a bit better stated. But it was a favorable suggestion to you. Instead the burner under the pot was turned up. In consideration of previous suggestions, and Jason E's post, there appear to be two paths open to you. Buy another jack. Bench check by comparison both jacks, and provide photo's of which clearly "side by side" show the defect you have. Then politely provide to both Barker and OTT Service the factual evidence of your situation. Personally I would chose the bench check route. And I still believe that "the right thing" will be done. As I also previously stated: Patience. In the mean time I would shim up the bed cover plate and keep having fun while Barker and OTT review your Bench Check report. GJ

Mountainman: Sorry for the off topic response. GJ

Now that is a bad-boy machine I could really enjoy! I would likely go for the endure street legal 350 version. In a younger day, I had a 400 Penton KTM and Husky CR400. Both were way too pippy on the torque band, and more than I could handle even then as a young beast. The new 350 would have plenty of power for what I'm likely to get into. If I wait too long then likely a 250! 😞 And a big box on the rear. I see both of these efforts in the future! Thanks for sharing. GJ

I was thinking about my pending annual service for the Dexter 3500 OEM axles. Later the next day while looking at the 5200 specifications, I came across two Dexter related videos of note from "The TrailerSmith". Under my father's watchful eye, I did my first trailer axle service sixty years ago. Have had many trailers in my life and just thought I knew something about troubleshooting this process. These two videos pretty much dispelled those notions. I now eagerly look forward to doing a full teardown and super clean and lube mine in July. The first video very well addresses their bearing and seal service: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uSou1kasBc The next video looks at the Auto Adjust system and gives some good tips worth note. It also explains why I am having to run my F-150 brake controller so high. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUqvxovZ164 I hope you find the videos interesting. If you do, kindly subscribe to his channel. GJ

JD: Thanks on the axle replacement info. On the brake controller: The last time I checked it, it was pumping right at 3 amps to each of the four disks. Easy to measure at each wheel with a driver helper up front. Or set the clamp on meter to record max amp reading and make trips forward to mash the brake. Regardless I'll check the amps again in July when I'm back your direction. So less likely a controller issue. When I'm on long downhill grades I routinely check the drum temperatures with an IR gun. They are all pretty consistent. The brakes are working but not as hard as I would like to see. It may just be adjustment. Or..... I am thinking it is more of a friction issue in the drums. Getting the power but not turning it into new OEM level movement and force against the drums. I will be doing my annual axle bearing service in July. I'll also be looking at the drum brake linings, I likely will fully pull apart the Dexter brakes. Then Brake Clean the heck out of everything, and brake lube the pivot and slide points of the actuators. Over the past 7 seasons I think they likely have gone dry or sticky. And of course snugly adjust the brake linings to optimum. Then the acid test is to do a parking lot skid mark test at about 15 to 20 MPH. No black marks with the controller set on at max controller.... Time for a more serious actions... possibly even the consideration of a trip to ALCON after our camping in AZ. GJ

JD: Looks like more than a few of us are also on the same page that an important advantage the 3500 to 5200 upgrade is braking performance. I'm running 8.5 or 9 on my F-150 factory controller and would like to be able to back that back a bunch. Hopefully that would leave some reserve capability to be had in an "emergency situation" towards the end of a long steep down grade run. I have on rare occasion wished for "More power to the reverse thrusters Scotty" or a Super Duty with engine braking diesel.! Questions for the Pro's about the 3500 to 5200 conversion: : Can someone share (By PM is necessary) the Labor and Materials "Out The Door" for the two axles upgrade? Is it logical to provide ALCAN with Timkin bearings to install in the 5200's before swapping? Will the 5200 upgrade accommodate our larger rims and tires? Has anyone cost shopped ALCAN vs OTT Factory upgrade? GJ

Barker did the welding. Problem could be there. OTT likely drilled the holes in their bracket. Problem could be there. .....Leaving you holding the bag. Seems like a joint discussion is between them. Regardless IF OTT Manufacturing has spare in stock, which they sometimes do not, they could ship you one. If not then they would have to send Barker the bracket, if they have a bracket in stock. Which last year they did not have as well. .......In which case you are still holding the bag. So ... OTT oh so rarely does not make things right. If there is going to be a delay, I would consider shimming up the hatch with a ring of 3/4" X 1" trim. If you have a foam pad over the OEM cushions you would not notice the difference while OTT/Barker sort it out. 🙂

Chris: Thanks for starting this great post, and video! One suggestion that I do may help during wanding efforts: Raise or lower your front jack to assist the water flow to the next weep. Gravity is a wonderful thing... occasionally anyway. For this purpose it is. Certainly made my window weep process faster. Also having some really long pipe cleaners to push and scrub in places you can't get to. GJ PS: Recommend not going too steep as water will pass by one drain hole and could over flow inside at the low end. Figured that one out all by my self! Sadly!

Craig: I got 40K Miles out of our OEM Monroe shocks. All four of them were fine. With tires off they are a snap to change, I would do so when doing the springs. But a lot of others have gotten a lot less miles on their OEM Monroe shocks. I have no experience with the Bulldog's, but from this forum it appears they are doing well. How well vs. cost? How about it fellow "Bull Doggers" Any shocking experiences so far? 🙂 GH

First, PLEASE replace your CO alarm if you have any doubts. Especially for a trailer that has an ammonia absorption refer. For these class of machines, the front of the refer cabinet must be sealed from the cabin, regardless of the brand. Aluminum foil tape is what I would use. I personally believe that running a condenser fan 24/7 to help scavenge air from the back of the refer and out the top outside vent is a good idea. It will tend to draw in good air at the bottom and exhaust whatever is in there out the top. In the process it may put this area under a slight negative pressure... further helping keep the family safe inside the trailer. GJ

Very wise! Absolutely possible. Barker has built thousands of jacks using the OTT bracket. They would have a jig fixture to weld the OTT provided bracket to the jack. So this could be a new guy mistake. Frankly it is time for you to just remove BOTH rear jacks from the trailer and bench inspect them side to side. Photo what you find. Doing so gives you the facts. It also puts you in a position to say it is "Obvious" and also if It is a Barker or OTT issue. Then you can politely share your results. It would also be a great opportunity to figure out how//if you have a bent jack leg. Once again JD is on point.... With an intact and relatively straight jack leg, I think you would either dig a deep hole below the jack to remove the leg down. Or likely easier, remove the jack foot and pull the jack leg up and out. Also, as JD mentioned, use Lock-Tite Blue on the jack foot bolt when reassembling. I have found that with facts, both OTT and Barker are stand up and make it right teams. Get them the facts and I'll wager you get a new jack and bracket free even though it is out of warranty. Why? That would be the stand up make it right answer. GJ

The below is in response to the bent jack. Nothing to do with the rubbing issue. These jacks are really strong, but they do bend. Especially when they are fully extended and moved with the foot loaded. I have seen a lot worse tilt and they continue to be just fine. Sadly, this likely is not an OTT issue, but an owner / operator caused OOPs.