Geronimo John

That's a new one. It certainly was designed to just lift the license plate and remove the big nut. The cover can then be removed with the spare tire still attached to Ollie. Kindly post a picture. GJ

For most tents, stakes they would work fine. But for our awnings and higher wind areas, I would consider increased diameter and length. Love the 20V impact to drive them idea. For our OTT awning, we carry two milk crates. One in the basement and the other in the basket. For high wind areas, we primarily rely on them with "locally sourced" rocks as anchors. One lesson learned is to emply quick disconnect so that in emergencies one disconnect and retract quickly. I have some ole D-rings that are over 100 pound rated and use them with mil-spec 550 cord as the connection means. Additional weight for two is less than a pound or two. GJ

We know that most of the older PD's had two RP fuses, and likewise some had the Lithium switch. I suggest testing the unit amp output to definatively end the discussion. Just turn off the solar controller, turn off the Inverter (If installed) turn on the Converter, and either check the SOC reading at the SOC display (If available) or use a clamp-on-amp meter at the battery to measure voltage and amps. Hopefully you see higher voltage and amperage when you think the Converter is on. If not, cry.

Also the terminals appear that they could use a cleaning as well.

That is good. I'm sure you already have, but out of an abundance... Since this is taking some time, recommend you periodically monitor battery water and top off as necessary with distilled water. GJ

The manual I posted above is for our 2018 OE2 and his is older than ours. Our units do/did not have the lithum switch... unless it was upgraded by someone that bought 12V LA's.... not likely.... So if going Lithium, at a minimum, an updated master board would be needed. If purchasing one, and going lithium I suggest upgrading from the 4045 (45 amp converter) to the 4060 (60 amp converter). That extra 15 amps makes a nice reduction in charging time. Or if budget allows, an upgrade into the Victorn lines if you are into neat gizmology. DBL-R: Not necessarily. Without a smart charger, a trick simple test will tell you very clearly. Both tests are founded on Watt's Law: Watts = Volts xAmps?) It says for a given wattage, with in reason you can power up a load with various voltages and amperages so long as their product = the Watts of the load. If your battery is surface charged, it may flow the optimum amps and volts off the surface initially. But then seconds later the voltage drops, the load in watts does not change, so the amps must increase. In your case you are looking at a voltage that can change, a fixed load, and variable amps as a result. As the volts decrease, the amps must increase.... until the buse blows. Two ways to test your battery for load carrying ability and health: If you have an Inverter (Changes 12V DC battery power into 120V AC power): First, unplug from shore power, turn on the inverter and hook up your volt meter to your batteries. Have someone start your microwave while you monitor the voltage. If the microwave tries to run but shuts off quickly, you have a surface charge. Only hope is to try using a smart charger to desulfate as mentioned above. If you don't have an Inverter, just cycle the front jack. If the batteries can raise and lower a full cycle then you may just be the lucky guy of the day. But if it slows down and stops, or blows the 30 amp jack fuse.... Time to desulfate.... Also keep in mind that a fully charged deep-cycle LA battery typically tests at 12.7V to 13.0V (for 12V systems) after resting for several hours. So more charging is also needed. Just be careful not to boil the batteries with too much charging amps or time. GJ GJ

For David and Gail's case, you nailed that one! How? My guess is it was a long week and on Friday late the installer laid the bolts on the floor with a "I'll get it Monday". GJ

WELL DONE! GJ

First, great news. Yes it does. From the OM: Copy of the manual is attached. Great news. GJ OM - Progressive Dynamics Converter Manual 4000.pdf

At 9 volts the diehard's have likely already died. Good news on having 120V, at least you are not totally toasted. The batteries appear to be 12V wired in parallel. I'm 90% sure they are gonners. Don't just replace them until you get a volt meter and can test the output of your battery charger. They are called Converters. You'll need a volt with clamp on amp meter or a friend who has one. Post back with what you find. GJ

JD: I suspect that the root cause is the slotted two piece stiff-leg that was utilized for installation & adjustment purposes. I am concerned by several aspects of the picture: All structural two-piece columns must utilize at least two GOOD bolt connections. Single Point of Failure Rule. There does not appear to be sufficient aluminum angle to angle overlap. A two piece structural column must have significant overlap to allow for both compression and angular deflections. The slot appears to have been hacked into the angle, not milled. Only having a single bolt. This allows the connection to act like an "elbow". Combined the above structural member could not effectively resist the battery and tray mass from moving out of the trailer. If it were mine, I would take a magic marker and physically strike the top of the lower angle for use as a witness mark. Then unload the batteries and determine at what height the support plate requires for proper elevation, flush alignment for the horizontal rivets, and to (hopefully) provide a slight slope to the outside for drainage. I would also add 1/8" in height for grins. Then of course add two bolts for permanent fitment. GJ

Physic's 101. The above includes airing down tires and running with light gray and black tanks when going off road. GJ

Hate to admit this here on the forum.... but..... Me as well. I travel solo a LOT and the number of wasted trips back and forth does get a bit old. As in older than this RoF! GJ

How wise you are. Been there and was suprised that my jack foot had taken a hike when I was not looking! Simple solution: Stainless Steel Cable (Really small) and a couple cable ferrules: Drill a hole in the jack foot and put a small loop and ferrule so it will not pull out of the jack foot. Another loop attached to the jack leg. Just enough room if you think small. In the event that the jack bolt leaves us, we should hear the tinkle tinkle of the foot being tortured by the pavement! Either way a spritz of black paint and a bolt and $35 saved. GJ

A short (by comparison for once) summmary: I concur with the "To Each Their Own" concept. That using hind-sight is an unfair approach to just about anything. That OTT has and still makes a product we all are proud to have, use and keep. That over time our requirements and circumstances will change. We will all end up modify, donating or selling our Olivers. We each exhibit moments of brilliance, and moments we wish we would have avoided. This forum is vibrant because we understand the above for ourselves and others. God bless Scott Oliver, his family and the OTT TEAM they have built. And all the participants of this forum. John Russell

JD: your battery bay sure looks a lot simpler with your new batteries! Also like the cross strapping idea. GJ

Sorry folks, I just noted that the above is from 2022. So likely all of the below was a waste of your and my time. GJ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Scuba RX is spot on in that both cables coming into the battery bank need to be 4/0. Beyond the above statement, what you have is a serious problem that is unrelated to your poser loss. The 2,000 watt Inverter if loaded will easily pull over 2,000 watts. Recalling Watts = Volts * Amps or Amps = Watts/Volts For your inverter it can easily require the wire to carry 2000A/12.5V = 166 amps. The 10 AWG wire is rated only for 30 amps. THIS IS A SERIOUS FIRE SAFETY ISSUE. Please seek help in changing out those wires. They are NOT OEM. Now back to your phantom loss: The best way to stop all losses is to add a Master Power Shut Off Switch. Many posts on the forum about this. Here is info I borrowed from John Davies with my rationale for going with the Blue Seas 350 A rated disconnect. Since it is likely at some point down the road you'll be upgrading to Litho's, that would be the best time to add such a switch. In the meantime, just disconnect (DISCO) one of those big 4/0 wires to have no losses. GJ John Davies Master Battery Switch.docx Geronimo John

Amazing. Just amazing. Have been to more than a few of the sites in the video, hope to do more. God willing. GJ

BB Owners: The above thread has some safety precatutions to think about taking if still using your BB's. They appear to be: Individually inspect and test your BB's as presented by Will P. Also inspect the BB terminals and ALL 4/0 cable lugs with an IR gun or IR camers to visually as suggested above. Only charge your BB's if you are present and can check in on them periodically. Don't use excessively high charge currents. My limit is 60 amps for three BB's. Install the temperature sensor that came with your 712 Smart. Place a rate of heat rise detector in your battery box. From AI: For an RV lithium battery storage box, a Rate-of-Rise (ROR) Heat Detector is generally recommended over a standard smoke detector. Because lithium battery failures often involve rapid overheating (thermal runaway) rather than immediate, thick smoke, ROR detectors provide faster, more reliable alerts by triggering when the temperature spikes quickly, minimizing nuisance alarms from dust or minor temperature fluctuations GJ

Wow tough and good question. If the hand of GOD had them by a private part and they actually did as you suggested, then my answer would be back to Dragon Fly: Did they redesign their 100 AH BB's to address all the issues with the old design? What does Will P. have to say about their new design? 🙂 How's that for a sly response? GJ

JD: Many thanks for the offer. I'll order out lugs and cable just to have them in case they are needed at other locations. I'll also bring my Harbor Freight tools in case my BB's fail on the road. But your cutter and crimper are for sure higher quality than mine. Hopefully my BB's will survive at least until the warranty has expired. Although I doubt that will be the case so being ready and prepared with options is warranted. Many thanks! GJ

Stuck Somewhere: Above options give me a way around a failure. Shipping a way to get the replacement battery, and tools to do it in less than a day. Since my tour route can include Lost Wages, NV I could camp out at Dragon Fly... with an attitude, and Crazy Horse with his quiver of bad messages. 🙂 Fire Danger: Great comment. I will be hooking up the temp sensor, and thanks to your post, will put a fire detector in the battery box just for grins. Just need to figure out if a "Rate of Heat Rise" or a "Smoke Detector" would be best for that purpose. (GJ EDIT: See Below about such a Detector, also looked into the return idea.... the defective BB's have to arrive at Reno, not Lost Wages. That's a bunch of miles further than I would do.) GJ

BUT, when I do upgrade, how well will my existing 3 each BB's 4/0 cabling work for one or two EPOCH's? Knowing would determine if I should pack for this season my cable cutter, hydraulic crimper and 4/0 lug kit. As you know I like to be prepared, have options, and plan ahead. 🙂 GJ

Good thoughts. Fortunately they will not all start to fail at the same time. Also, thanks to Will P. we know exactly what to look for. Hence should one of mine start down that path, I'll pull it out of the harness and "Only" have 200 AH of power. More than I had when I purchased and used the OTT AGM's for five seasons. So we have a pretty decent path forward. Key is Knowledge, and that comes in great abundance on our forum! GJ

I understand your position and thoughts. But on my end, and more than a few others, we should not have to be replacing our ten year "Bullet Proof Battle Born's" now, and spending a dime is more than we had planned on doing ....until well down the road. With "only" a 60 amp PD charger, and a 300 amp fuse my hope is that our 3 BB's will continue to perform. That the Trust side. On the Verify is... the with lots of inspections and monitoring of course. GJ PS: I really like your nuclear power plant in your Ollie!