Geronimo John

Steve: Again you are providing a gold mine if great info. THANK YOU! So, with twin cast in place conduit runs, am I correct in thinking that as shown in the above "N9" picture: The left conduit (Street side) is provided for the pre-wired solar system feeds to the attic. The right one,(Curb Side) that runs from the front closet area to the attic feeds attic area miscellaneous electrical needs. I will for sure be up top this summer looking for that dimple. I seem to recall seeing it and wonder "What's dat for?" If so, it marks the "X" on the spot for buried treasure. Made my day! GJ

Both of your above statements jive with what I understood from my Ollie pick up in 2018. Can you enlighten me on WHERE the #6 cable(s) are located below the roof? That is the key info I am seeking. Thank you so very much.

??? At this point I am just trying to get my arms around how to connect future solar lay flat panels and the challenges that it will bring. The other one is the heat issue. In the "Good Ole Days" we would just lay down an asbestos blanket and problem solved. Sure wish I could find some of that in an old warehouse shelf. Handled with knowledge and safety equipment, it is no where near the hazard many people assume. And I am not aware of any replacement that even comes close to it's heat stopping abilities. GJ

You all have convinced me of the 3M VHB mounting approach. I really don't want any more holes in Ollie if possible. If required, small is best. My trailer is supposed to be pre-wired for solar. Is there any documentation as to what and where the connection points are? If not how did you bring the solar panel wiring into Ollie? GJ

Yea my bad. Was cleaning out my unread notifications and failed to check the date. Hope he is still lurking around. Handy guy for sure! GJ

Trainman: Good idea on blowing out the assembly for plastic shards removal. Also, please update both your signature line and profile to include you hull number. Thanks. Imelda! Good post. Thank you. "Slowly over an hour": What were your thoughts for the slow injection process? I was thinking of just disconnecting the hose and dunk it and the faucet head into a small bucket of vinegar? But then you are using industrial strength vinegar..... All: FYI COSTCO also sells 1.3 gallon jugs of 5% Vinegar. But it's no where as strong as Imelda's 30% cleaning and industrial vinegar. The PH scale is not linear! The acetic acid in the industrial version literally will eat many metals. If using this for decalcification the mixing ratios are drastically different than the 50/50 generally posted for run of the mill COSTCO or other commercial grocery store brands. The 30% stuff will blind immediately and burn as well. No kidding here. Specifically per OSHA: "This material is considered hazardous by the OSHA Hazard Communication Standard (29 CFR 1910.1200). SIGNAL WORD: DANGER GHS HAZARD PICTOGRAMS: Hazard Statements: Causes severe skin burns and eye damage. Precautionary Statements: Do not breathe mists, vapors, spray." GJ .

I like the Nova Kool R5810. Has a larger freezer and other benefits. Ken (Mountain Oliver) installed one and I put together with his ideas and edits the attached DYI guide for install. There is a good amount of info here in the forum threads as well. GJ Nova Kool R5810 Installation (7 MARCH 2023 Version).docx NOTE:: I edited the attachment to correct several typos and some minor clarifications. No significant changes otherwise.

Long time ago, John D. stated that he would not go beyond 15,000 miles on the OEM Dexter bearings. I asked how long with annual service the replacement Timken's would likely run and i recall 60,000 miles. For sure we get what we pay for..... GJ

Super easy fix. Have added this simple DIY fix to my summer list. "Another One Beats The Dust!" Gj

Lucky guy. You can still see the buttons on that micro remote................

Thanks Bill. I had missed it by speed reading while looking at his excellent pictures. Every one of them are perfect. What they highlighted to me (beyond the message of fixing the likely vent problem) is just how much dust my Ollie has between the hulls where the majority of our MEP resides. it certainly did not come from the factory that way. Likely the dust is from the air vents for the curb side and lots of dusty camping roads. It can't be good for the MEP systems. Looking forward to having to replaced the Dometic absorption refrigerator and sealing up the refer vents. That should help on the dust issue. Left would be the Suburban furnace grill used to provide cooling and combustion air to the furnace. Maybe a bolder catcher filter there. Plus about three days with a strong vacuum with 20 feet of hose. GJ

Brilliant!

Really important to know our actual height's, especially with any mods. As far as relying on posted info without not checking.....I do not have a Sat Receiver. So per the 2018 brocuhure, the height of my Ollie should be 8' 6". Tilt: Our Ollie is well over 8' 6" high. Also remembering that posted bridge heights are not always updatedd after paving overlays. Personally I use anything posted as under 10 feet posted as a RED FLAG warning. Less than that I stop and test fit so to speak. As you point out, we all really need KNOW what our rig's height really is. GJ

If it is magnetic, it's not bronze or brass. It has Iron. Will work, but it's not the best... IMO. GJ

Following is rabbit hole conjecture on my part for your amusement: The G-forces on loads behind the center point of the twin axles are lineally amplified by the lever arm distance. It therefore is good design to have more structural supports behind the axles than in front of them as reported. As the EZ Flex raises and lowers the axles based upon up/down road bumps/holes/trenches, it could also be adding additional loads to the areas in front and behind the axle center points. If those are in-phase with the road induced G-forces, the structural member loadings would be increased beyond that mentioned above.

IF your Axle Decal looks like this one, You may want to read the rest of the below. From what I can figure out, Red Neck Trailers was “Integrated” into Nuera Trans which was “Hoovered Up” into Dexter. The original Red Neck Trailers is still in business as is Nuera Trans. All flying the Dexter flag. As clearly printed on a Dexter Label, they were made by NUERA TRANS likely in Cookeville Tn. So don’t waste your time calling Dexter for a "Build Sheet". The correct terminology is to request the Configuration Info associated with 6339056. The Dexter Customer Service could not pull up this info. So instead, call this knowledgeable contact that has been in her job with all three name changes:: Christy Gillentine | CSR Dexter Distribution Group christy.gillentine@dextergroup.com direct tel:: (931) 739-4034 An alternate would be Denise Ameling via E-mail: <denise.ameling@dextergroup.com> Please keep in mind that these contacts are ONLY for NURA TRANS labels axels. If your label is not like the one above, the regular Dexter Customer Service is by far the way to get your axle info. The Nuera Trans Axles (I.E. Really Red Neck Trailer axles that were sold under the Nuera name) were purchased without springs. The springs were sent to them for assembly. They are the Chinese made PR4B springs. Christi stated that if the springs are flattening out, then they were undersized for the application. After they flatten out, then they generally fail as was originally reported on our thread. She stated that the PR4 springs with their thicker steel (2,400 pound rated) would be a better choice. Here is the CONFIG INFO for this Config Number for my rear axle on Hull 342. If you have the same number on yours, here it is: Note it states “No Springs, Calculate Leaf Spring Capacity”. GJ

The Dexter Team was helpful, but not successful in finding my Build Sheet. So a week later, I am still on the hunt. Seems that as companies get bought up by the Dexter Hoover, records sometimes get "misplaced". I now have a former employee of a former company of a former company working the question. More to follow likely early next week. GJ

For fun: To be fair, I suggest adding the word in Green above. Our 2018 Hull 342 Refer works quite well (with the added dual fan installation). Likely will continue to do so...... all the way until the day it catches on fire. For Real: As soon as it starts to go south, eliminate the fire hazard as suggested by John D. years ago. GJ

The Houghton group have the same feelings about the same situation as yours. The installation of a relay to shut down the fan with the compressor has resulted in a vast improvement. I have to wonder if the Aussie Engineer at Houghton moonlights for the Aventa folks. If so that would explain the twin disasters. The other issue the Houghton's have is that it does not have a remoted T-stat. We have a solution successfully implemented with the SOB's, but routing is still being worked in our OE2's for the thermistor to bring the Houghton up to world class. GJ PS: Several of us OTT owners will be working the thermistor solution over the summer.

Short answer often not. Think of earthquake proof buildings and those that are not. The ones that flex and bend under the stress survive. The solid ones crumble. An efficient solution is to have more cross members properly attached to the main frame members. Load distribution is the idea. Less load, less overload, less failures. The supported tanks would like it much better as well. GJ

Good news Patriot. Just noticed the yellow "thing" on your spring shackle. What is it? thanks. GJ

Liked your post. I'm also a Meguiar's guy. Our Ollie sees 3 to 4 months of summer hot sun a year. Other months are in a dark barn covered. Some questions: I wax Ollie once a year. Is that adequate? I have a Rupes LHR15ES Random Action Buffer. Have not used it on Ollie. Do you use yours routinely on our OE2's? Will be using the 67 one step as you in a season or two. What buffing pads do your recommend using for the 67 one step to "Buff" it out with your polisher. Thanks GJ

We should be getting up the enough with ALCAN for a volume discount!

As one of the more senior aged trailers (2015 OE2 Hull #70), a key piece of info of interest is "Has the frame design changed over the years" and if so, "How and When"? GJ

John: Your keeping the shades a bit above the track is a good idea for winter storage as well. The shades don't provide much insulation so why keep them in a potential wet zone? Good idea... Thanks GJ