Geronimo John

Unplug from shore power and fire off your Inverger to feed a 1500 watt electrical resistance heater. Recommend pluging it in to the patio plug. That give the system some exercise and not work your A/C. 🙂 GJ

JD: Do you always remove the cushions and hatch to allow the heat out so as to keep the Orion fully in play? GJ

Geoff: Could this be the reason that I don't see a charge rate at via the Ollie's Victron shunt more than 22 amps despite having a 30 amp Orion in play? GJ

As have we. Not sure I could blame their demise on our winterization using Super Tech though.....

typo

There is some concern that the steel rod threads will "eat" the aluminum slot. A smooth rod of steel with collars or washers and cotter pins would likely serve you best. GJ

Good observation. Any chance that the pipe and faucet had been hard frozen? That could account for both issues.

Great post and thank you Cindy! Below is a long version with a couple of alternate RV products than the Super Walment Center Super Tech version that many of us have been using. Owners: If there are other less expensive sources please advise all. Have we seen any long term damage in our OTT's? (I have used it for 9 winters and have not experiencned any). If none by others then maybe the topic is over-blown. GJ RV ANTIFREEZE (Keep).docx

Wow I'll need to digest your post a bit. By chance will our Pre-2020 trailers best use Sharkbite fittings and Pex - B pipe? With zero plumbing leaks in 9 seasons, I'm think for our 2027 season that it is for sure time to get to the Big Box store to acquire a small stock pile of the proper fittings. Here is a starting point for discussion: (Assuming all are 1/2" sized.) Half Stick of Pex-B pipe (One Each) Female Swivel adaptor (See above, Two Each) Coupling 90 and 45 degree elbows (2 Each) Support fixture for fixing the Pex-B pipe (See above, One Each) Stainless Steel Hose Clamps? (Needed? Number?) What above is not needed or is not listed? thanks, GJ

The NEC, and maybe others, require a service disconnect for appliance maintenance. A plug is the cheapest way to provide a disconnect for service. GJ

Thanks, but I was not providing any comments about all the changes. Your input on some of them is spot on though. I would not swap my Ollie for a 9 year used Apex. Just way too many systems that a "normal" person could ever maintain. Violates my KISS and easily maintainable preferences. OH, and that brand new looking trailer someone parked at your home can't possibly be the same one that was the chalked-out one I saw before. LOL. Basically saying WOW the ceramic coating makes your 2017 look better than new! GJ

Good thoughts for sure. I take them a step further. For the newer owners, when you hook up to the City water on-boarding port, your closed plumbing system comes up to the same standing pressure as the city system. This includes your pump, hot water heater, and all your piping to the bathroom, kitchen and outside . That pressure generally is much higher than the OTT pumped system, and can cause leaks. When not using this port, most leaks are slow drippers. But if your system is connected to this port, you can get a really serious leak. Especially if you some air in your plumbing, the high pressure City water and air in your system can cause severe water hammer. And that's when fittings get blown out. With a nod to JD's post above, when you have such a system breach, it will flow a lot of water into your hull. If you are not there, your trailer suspension and MEP systems are at extreme risk. Hence you really should be there when using this port. Unless my pump fails, my "Step Further" is that I don't use this port (except for winterizing at the end of season). Just not worth the risk. GJ

JD: This 50-response thread has drawn the attention of The Rabbit Hole Executive Committee, particularly because several of your responses are highly technical and lengthy. Analysis shows that several of your posts exceed the Association’s screening requirements. If further such posts on this thread continue, you will be involuntarily inducted into the OTT Rabbit Hole Association. This is your one and only warning. Vigilantly, Chairman for Life of the Rabbit Hole Association

Lamar: Did you purchase your LE1 via OTT at the Mother Ship or one of their "Dealers" while that program was in existance? GJ

Lamar: When time permits please update your profile. Thanks GJ

Personally I would not. I wanna see it on both sides of the wet bolts. Not a lot, but a bit though. Then wipe it down and replace the zerk cap (as you are doing). GJ

Your heart is the size of Texas! Well done. GJ

Sounds like my Apco Cover. GJ

Our 2018 uses a different setup with four valves. GJ

I was asked why I would tow our OE2 at 95 MPH. Answer is I don't. Then why ask AI to require at least this speed rating? Good question. WHY? A tire's speed rating indicates how well a tire dissipates heat during prolonged high-speed driving. I and many of our forum members cover lots of mils at posted speed limits. Likewise a lot of us do so during the summer crossing hundred mile streaches of desert areas with temperatures over 100 degrees and high speeds as well. Hence I want tires that can "take the heat". This is true for both my TV and Ollie tires. RESULT? Zero roadside tire issues in over 40 years. HOW? I always buy tires with a Load and Speed Ratings that are well above what is recommended for the average driver. GJ

PS: Roads tend to drain towards the right side. Hence this side typically is lower. If you are close to the posted height, you may want to move right and maybe get a bit more clearance. GJ

Just about everytime I winterize, the city water fitting will not take antifreeze I was trying to pump in. Despite following my instructions to open the shower valve. This time I opened the sink valve and I could pump in antifreeze. The system can airlock and opening a valve seems to make the problem disappear. Now if I can just remember to change my winterization check list....... GJ

Chris: Wow, lots of ideas for better boondocking experiences and "coolness" factor. From my perspective two items I would not want: A. I near zero skill at painting anything. So the black painted front basket, rear bumper and other items for me would become eyesores as they age. B. Also the tires: They are rock chuckers that WILL significantly damage the fiberglass hull. To me their benefit (Good mud traction) is important for many of us, but much less so for a trailer. Look cool, but to me not worth the damage they WILL cause to the hull. On the other hand, there are many items that are standout improvements for serious boondockers. Thanks for taking the time to post about this new model. GJ

From JD's posts and others about this product I have to agree that this appears to be a great option. Worth a look by many owners. However, as I have previously stated, for those with limited headroom for storage of our OE2's, the Chill Cube's extra 5 1/2" height above what most slim line units have can be a deal killing concern. In 2019 I saw an RV try to pass under an old railroad bridge where an asphault overlay had been done, but the posted bridge clearance had not been updated. He cleared off several items on his roof. At the time I thought the driver was an idiot and his mistake was sadly funny. But when I stopped and helped him measure the actual clearance, I became a witness in his insurance report. Not so funny after all. With my tall telestep ladder he "rattle canned" paint sprayed out the wrong height posted. Suspect the RR got the bill for repairs. But he had to suffer for some time without his two AC's, antenna, and exhaust fan. What a PITA for his family. So if increasing the height of anything on your roof, please re-adjust your bridge clearance alert as well. My personal alert is anytime I see a posted clearance of 10 feet 0 inches (or less), I stop and slow walk the passage. So knowing what your trailer's actual clearance minimum is a smart idea! GJ

Yep! GJ