Geronimo John

Good news. Its not likely your batteries. Write down this a a 100% SOC with X amp draw. Then start powering up the individual fuses, letting things stabilize a minute or so and record the event's data. By having the fuse size, what it serves and the change in amp draw, we can all look at the data with you. Even if you run across a monster draw, continue the process for all fuses and circuit breakers with everything off. This will become a reference for many down the road for sure.

yes. Thanks TopGun2! You were close. Was out flying my paraglider.

Our OE2 Michelin Defenders are still doing well with 40,000 miles. But somewhere down the road I'll need to replace them, as will we all. When that happens, my criterion for our next set of Ollie tires will be based upon the following criterion: Toughness for sure. As such, they will be E1 rated. Long life. Wet and dry road traction. (During our ownership, our OE2 has & never will see snow or ice.) Having a tread that will not toss rocks and harm Ollie. Not off road traction in mud or on hard rock or scree. Why not put such a tire on Ollie as I have on my TV? Because the TV's job is to tow, and the trailer's job is to follow. I don't want my TV following or my Ollie leading. Of all the tires I have researched this past year, I have t agree that the Agiliss Cross Climate Light Truck E1 rated seems to be to be a great option at this point in time. However: Accoring to the above posted tire / load chart: I have to wonder why 55 PSI is suggested as appropriate? Lets assume we have an average 6000 pound ollie with 10% tongue weight. We have 5400 pounds on four tires = 1350 pounds per tire. Would therefore the Michelin chart for these tires recommend a PSI of 40 PSI? Kindly explan why we would want to punish our poor tralier with 55 PSI in the tires. GJ

Ditto for the Ford cam phaser issue.

Oh my... If their "Roger Up" was not factual, then their creditability is also on the line. That PR debacle cost wise will outweigh financially the engine problem cost. It now appears that the Short Block answer simply is not going far enough. Sadly the Ford process was, and continues to be mismanaged from a PR and future customer relations perspective. The right thing to do in their case was to warrant their engines with the defective design cam phasers with no mileage or time limit. Not doing so has so many of us angry that I suspect a Class Action law suit will happen. More bad PR for Ford when it happens. GJ

Wow, that's really nice! The processor and display: Would be really handy for the full timers and especially the Tech Inclined owners. Certainly can provide a great visual of what's happening in our various systems. But for me and Crazy Horse, we get by with my slide rule and his solar powered adding machine. I just don't think I would trust it for 8 or 9 months alone though. Especially with all that AI running amuck now days. Lord only knows where it would take Ollie off to up there in the High Country of Oklahoma. Oh wow, I'm back. Ok, seriously now, I would not at all be surprised that in the near future OTT will be looking for advice on making this great Victron suite an option on new OTT's. It is bound to happen. Meanwhile, we'll just poke along. Anybody have some slide rule wax? After 60 years it's getting a bit sticky. Numbers seem to be smaller than before too! Oh slipped back to the other side. Sorry about that! Great system for sure.

Ronbrink: The following does not apply for your Houston location. But for others they need to be aware that most Lithium's per the MFG's must not be stored at full SOC for locations where there is any possibility of them freezing. GJ

I use the same one! Works good for up to 20 amps. But mine has one square pin and one round...... GlacierGirl: Just be very careful to notice the shape of each pin, so that you can match it with the proper plug. Art and I found different pin shapes for some of these. Also, do not assume a color like RED is actually to be hooked up to a positive for a given pin shape or color. You'll want to have a volt meter to make sure your panel out put + and - math the plug and that the plus power side gets all the way to a + battery terminal. GJ

Just noted your 2023 Sequoia. I used a 2005 to tow my Ollie for a year. it only had the 4.7 liter engine. The 2023's are much better. You'll want to take measurements of the Solar suit cases and plan out your storage plan. That likely will lead you to the smaller ones. If you have already purchased, then you'll most likely be having them in Ollie. Will sort of be a PITA when traveling. There are many ways to connect it, but until you get that resolved, the Solar Suitcases come with a pair of alligator clips, Just open the battery hatch and attach it on the proper terminals so that your shunt will see the charge. If you don't have any fancy way to measure your battery SOC, just connect to the battery terminals in such a manner so as to match the 12 volt output. (I don't know if you have AGM, 12V/6V LA, or Litho's). when you settle o the solar system, with the battery info one of us will for sure know the best way to hook it up. GJ

The Renogy solar suit cases are ideal for our use, especially if we don't have onboard solar. You may want to find a store or another ollie that has them. You'll immediately get the picture I was painting. If they did not have the smaller 100 watt ones, I would buy my 200 again. But for sure would prefer the smaller foot print with the 100's.

WOW. I'll be adding this for my 2018 model OE2. Thank you for posting. GJ

First, Welcome to the OTT Family! I'm not familiar with your solar port, but I do own the 200-watt solar suit case. I like it a lot. When I was buying mine, I sought guidance just as you are. One of the owners indicated that he preferred getting two of the 100's because the 200-watt version is large and a bit heavy. After two years of use, I regret not following his advice. The challenge is storage. The 200-watt set is quit large for storage. It is wide enough that I can't stand it on edge in my truck bed. So flat it must lay, taking up a LOT of space. That makes it much more challenging than two smaller ones stacked would have. Sure it will fit into my F-150 short box bed, but it then demands priority and not much can be stored on top of them - despite their great case. If I were going to re-do, I for sure would not have gotten the bigger one. Now if you are set on the 200's I'll offer you mine at 40% off, and I'll get my two sets of 100's. Both win. Well not quite. I would not accept that offer if I were you though. Unless you have a 8' bed for your TV and not much else in it. 🙂 GJ

YES! Ditto. GJ

If after all the above you still are losing power, time to Recharge again and DISCO the batteries from each other. I have not heard of any such failures before, but at least this would be a warranty replacement for sure. You certainly could run without one of them during the process. GJ

Ok we have now almost completely killed all the possible loads ... except: There is a fuse panel in the attic. Hopefully you got those as well. Would pull the smoke and the CO2/Propane detectors out if you can. I think the CO2/Propane may be hard wired if so, leave it. A wild card: Have you had any problems with the trailer lights being on when they should be off? If so, spray out the plug with CRC brake cleaner. (Yea this is a very small leakage if the plug is wet and dirty. With a nod to Ronbrink, do you have a Xantrex? (Trip it's circuit protection) 1 amp X 24 hours = 24 amp hours. 360 AH system divided by 24 ah/day = 15 days to dead battery. If the battery charge is still declining as before, Recharge and disconnect the one of the 4/0 wires to isolate the batteries. If they sink out, then you know it's them. In retrospect this likely would have been a better starting point as suggested by Topgun2 and JD. But just think of all you have learned in this process! 🙂 😞

In reality it was an OOPs... Sorry about that! GJ

You are of course are correct. But, I already stepped on that land mine in 2019. I took the position you espoused (DISCO the Batteries). But got my knees taken out by an owner that said that may work for you (Me at the time) as your voyages are very long, His were short and doing the process many times a season was not realistic. I had to admit he was correct. Hence my 350 A BlueSeas Master Battery Switch install....

Precisely stated! Yep. For sure. Thanks for also sharing that a cheap service disconnect is not the way to go. GJ

For Lead Acid or AGM's yes. But when discussing Litho's, the Amps in vs. Amps out is the standard. Now, when you have a super small charge rate and draws, not even a SOC system (Such as Victron 712's and better) can keep up with the drift. So at the end of the storage period, a full on "fill up" is required with additional charging time for equalization. That should reset the clock so to speak. GJ

Bill's spot on. The odds are that you have an overcharging issue. Combine that with SeaDawg's statement I think applies to your situation. Conventional wisdom is when one goes bad, replace them all. This logic is based upon differences in internal resistance of the four batteries. The "outsider" (I.E. New One) of the family certainly will NOT have the same résistance as the rest of the family. As such no telling where the charge energy will be going. But it will certainly not be equally between the family members. Each time one of the family members will over heat and die From this picture, it is hard to tell if your battery cells are serviceable: Since you have tried at least twice now and the problem repeats: A. If your cells can be tested, get a hygrometer and test the acid strength. It is a direct indicator of the cell health. B. Provide close study of the current being provided by your Converter during the charging process. If the above is not possible, and I were leaving for a long trip, I would replace them all, fully charge, and then look at the draw down when being stressed by known amp draws. But be very aware that any Lead Acid/AGM battery should never be allowed below 40%. For many that's 11.7 volts. But check with your new battery mfg. But first, you may want to take a deep breath, get two beverages of choice, and take a deep dive into the attached Battery DIY document. It's only 12 pages long. My apologies for not indicating where I "borrowed" the article, but it is worth a read for those still not yet .... Lithoized. (Gotch JD! there's another one!) 🙂 GJ DIY - Batteries - More Than You Ever Wanted To Know.docx

Before responding back on JD's excellent post, not being familiar with your batteries, is there a way to absolutely ensure that all three battery heaters is OFF? Switch? Take a wire off? Etc? Now back to JD's Post. I agree fully. It is in line with what we discussed earlier but with more detail. I would take a micro-step further and suggest after getting to full SOC, that you equalize the batteries. See YOUR battery MFG procedure to do so. Then proceed as suggested with you fuse pulling effort.

Is your heater and cook top stove working properly?

It's either a brain anonolly by a RoF or I'm trying to drive you off the edge! Or maybe it was a silly joke! 🙂 JPR

Any idea how old that bottle of Dawn is? My new does not give any warning about bleach. It also says "50% less scrubbing" and "dawn believes in safety and quality of our products". Pretty good evidence that they changed their formulation. I too use Dawn a lot. Regardless of what those "Experts" say, I'll follow your lead and not be mixing the two. Good catch between the two of us! GJ

Personally I would more likely have whacked off the tab as you were pondering.