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Geronimo John

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Everything posted by Geronimo John

  1. When I get to Talihina OK, I have 8 miles of steep fire road to haul up Ollie. The road is graded (sometimes) and I am dodging rocks and bigger holes along the way. So airing up and down is a routine that I do twice a summer each way. But you are right, I have allowed others to use it far more often each year than the Buffalo Mountain Road drill I use it on. But the real benefit is having it in the truck when going off road. Again, mostly for others use...... GJ
  2. Danno and Donna: Can the two Epoch batteries be mounted on their sides and still fit into the existing tray as a result? If so, I would orient it to have the air vent high vs. low. GJ
  3. Good reminder for a shameless plug for my third most favorite tool. This with a 5 AH battery and the case live in our Ollie wardrobe closet. I pull it out when going rogue off-road with the TV.... just in case it is needed way out back. Highly recommend this air compressor for mobile use: GJ
  4. Ron: I caringly rewrote my above thoughts at least a dozen time specifically to be kind and respectful. It was also made in the hopes to highlight that the apparent intent to install larger litho's without the supporting and securing battery box tray should not be executed. The idea of having litho's directly sitting in the battery bay may work for a given owner's use. But certainly would likely become a serious safety hazard should their use change. I learned just how rough the Yukon Territory and some Alaska "corduroy roads" are two summer ago. For strictly highway use, unsupported and unrestrained litho's may work just fine. But what happens when that trailer gets sold, and the new owner is unaware of such an install's vulnerabilities? As a Registered Mechanical Engineer I am ethically required to not be silent when I can foresee a significant life and fire safety hazard. Having that much weight not fully restrained and/or supported in a battery box of a mobile application would be a problem. Especially for a mobile application that will be subject to high amplitude multiple directional accelerations. That said, your suggestion for a load spreading and battery restraining "platform" certainly is a suggestion in the right direction. I think it is a great suggestion. But from the perspective of respect and understanding, was it appropriate for you to suggest it? From "The knife cuts both ways" perspective; the answer is no. But from the higher perspective of Oliver Safety and caring for our family members: I think we can agree that both our intents were spot on. GJ
  5. Thanks for the good info on mounting the dongle. If June is with me, she can easily cut and re-terminate just about any of this stuff, but I leave it to her as I would not be successful. Way too small for these ole eyeballs. Also roger on higher vs closer and 5' of cable. If it works from under the dinette seat that's all I really am needing. Mahalo! GJ
  6. Surely someone sells just the left half of this product. That could be just a $15 investment. GJ
  7. Back to the VE.Direct. My goal is to extend the Bluetooth range to the driver seat of our TV. So connecting it to the Victron Orion 12/12 - 30 charger we have mounted under the front dinette seat is the logical connection point IF: A. Is the dongle rated for wet or moist location? B. How long is the factory dongle cable? Reason for asking is with our DC to DC Charger, we have path directly to the propane compartment. If the answers to the above two questions are favorable, I would mount the dongle high in the prone tank area on the fore and port side undersurface. This would shorten the distance from the dongle to the TV driver position and not require the dongle to transmit through the reflex insulation. Maybe with a Velcro attachments under the top front corner of the area lid to make tank service lid removal easy. GJ
  8. Ron how is the LifeSaver pressurized to push water up to the countertop? GJ
  9. AND commercially viable. (IE: Would they sell enough to amortize their costs + profit requirements. )
  10. Electric Floor Warming Mat would fix that! On our OE2, there is a plug just between the bathroom entrance and the wardrobe. Plugin and enjoy! At least until it becomes an electrifying experience. Maybe a low voltage water proof rated one would be a safer choice. Or you could use it to stand your hair up for a Halloween frightful hair style. 🙂
  11. I would not be surprised if it cost that much to develop a new mold. Maybe even more as getting it perfect the first time would be extremely difficult to do. But I would have to ponder a bit that a replacement mold made like previous ones would be that expensive. Can you please clarify? As far as a 30' OEIII, I doubt it would be commercially successful for OTT due to the developmental costs it would take. That said, it sure would be nice!!!!! GJ
  12. Although the Litho's are pretty much "Maintenance Free", having the battery tray sure is handy. Especially if you mount a master switch, shunt, load terminal blocks and tie down straps in the battery bay as many of us have done. Hope it works out well for you. GJ
  13. You are correct as Mossemi appears to be using them as an anchor point! And it would apply. For the Bathroom cubby it would be a waste of fender washers as they are not high load or vibration applications.
  14. GI NOTE: For the Bathroom Cubby install, the below does not apply to this install. For the anchor point install it would apply. For applications where you can somehow get to the back side here are two considerations: For high load applications, or ones that will be subject to strong vibrations, insert the Petal nut, then place a fender washer on the uncrushed nut. Then crush it. Doing so will greatly reduce fiberglass cracking and strength of the attachment. If you will be needing to unbolt the attachment, add a dab of adhesive to the crush zones of the Petal nut. Once crushed and cured, the bolt can be removed and you'll not lose the Petal Nut in the back space. GI Edit: The pedal nut will not fall out so edited the use of adhesive. Obvious brain fart!
  15. Amazon has scores of surge protectors to choose from. And as apparent from the above posts, each owner has their concerns in mind for their use. So, for a pedestal power pole used as a supplemental protection, my concern is spikes and RF noise. Not sustained voltages beyond standard as MountainOliver sadly experienced. For the purpose of voltage noise and spikes, having a plug-in type with lots of joules capacity is the goal. Keeping it light, simple and inexpensive is the idea from my minimalist perspective. If those are your goals, then this one seems to fit bill and costs a LOT less than most others at the 8,000+ joules rating:
  16. All: I do really like the tech specs on that unit. Especially the Victron quality and the "power assist" feature. I am sort of concerned about having all my power eggs in one basket though. But with a Victron, I could get over this concern I suspect. The one road block that I have not solved is where to put the VM3000 without taking out of service existing storage space. Places such as part of the wardrobe closet at entrance or storage between the twin beds is too valuable to sacrifice. Likewise under the dinette table would for sure get me sleeping with the bears. Are there other suitable locations our "older" 2017 and 2018 Ollies that it would fit? How much heat does it generate that we also would need to accomodate? GJ
  17. Art: Some may ponder too long on this one. Suggest add an "en" on Tight and a value. GJ
  18. First check the connections. If they are firm, then dusting likely will not make any difference other than it will be cleaner.
  19. Per your reference, I checked Splendiday.com and order out a set of them. Their design uses four "Petals" vs. most others that have just three. I like that. I've used rivet (Blind Flush Nuts as my GrandPa called them) nuts for many decades and they can be a PITA for fiberglass just as you stated. Also for plastic IMHO. Thanks for the suggestion. GJ
  20. I've looked into the PlusNuts and agree they will be a better choice for our Ollie Fiberglass needs. Were you using steel or aluminum ones? What size? source? Thanks for the idea and for posting. GJ
  21. I was thinking of using a round plastic bottle as a starting point. Just looking for a heavy duty one of the right size. Nice job on yours! GJ
  22. Assuming there are no leaks, an air bubble can cause the pump to run. Opening and closing the sink faucet can allow the air to escape. If opening/closing the faucet does not work, then check the strainer by the pump. OFTEN as in very often, poly shreds from OEM install will plug this strainer. Plugged or partially plugged strainer can cause low water pressure or in severe instances no water flow. Worth a check. GJ
  23. Flushing the tank will not improve a sensor mounted on the outside of the tank. But checking the connections and maybe cleaning off dust from the sensor may. GJ
  24. Good reading info! One item to make sure is that all other loads, such as water heater, A/C, microwave are OFF. This will allow you to adjust the charge setting to a level consistent with a max RUNNING (Not surge) amps of your generator. It would do that if your grounding plug (Technically a grounded neutral plug) is defective. If there are other RV's in the area, ask to momently borrow their Grounded neutral plug for a quick test. Geronimo John PS: The fancy one displayed above is nothing but a regular 120V plug with a jumper wire inside it from the ground wire terminal to the neutral terminal. Most of us buy a $5 plug and make our own.
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