Geronimo John

OOPS: When I reread Art's post, I realized i was climbing the wrong tree. Massive delete of what was below needed as a result. My bad..... Art was focusing on the bathroom RETURN AIR to the furnace when it is running. I was addressing the natural convection concept for the wardrobe closet and forced cabin air movement into and out of the bathroom to the below decks area. My bad. GJ One thought for the extreme cold weather campers: If I were one, I would install the vents as suggested above plus a 4" fan to move air from the bathroom into the inter-hull area. This would ensure continuous air flow from the cabin via three or more vents and would ameliorate the bathroom temperatures swing between furnace cycles. I would likely power the fan through a thermostat to auto on the fan at a desired temperature, and with a manual on/off switch and fuse of course. This and the suggested vents would be a good "Cold Weather Option" for OTT to consider. GJ

Nicely done! I think the meat locket cold box issue will be greatly improved. By adding another vent above the closet door (as has been done by others), the vents would also greatly help reduce the hot box we get in the closet during the summer! And take a look at those two great shelves we installed in our trailers last summer. I will admit that getting the curved and tapered front edge template correct was a real PITA. But in the end they turned out GREAT. Sure would save a lot of effort for other owners to have a cardboard template before starting such a project! I bet we could be enticed to remove them if an owner wanted to replicate the template out of cardboard, and then share it with others at the rally. For a couple of cold dark beers we could unload mine pretty easily to greatly simplify template making. Owners interested: you would need a cardboard box. Great use of the unusable space in the closet! Awesome! 🙂 GJ

I use your method as a back-up plan for my Honda Generator. Reason is running a 400 horsepower engine, even at idle, to create what a small generator can do just as well..... causes me to pause. But if my solar panels and Honda fail to get the job done, then I will for sure be singing praises for your suggestion!

Oh boy, this response is going to be a lot of fun. Pressurization of our fresh water tank (FWT) can be realized with well or city water lines. The above post and response is one way. However, the Poly water tanks I am aware of are not rated pressure tanks. It is for this reason that 99% of them do not post a working pressure rating. But that does not prevent some people thinking otherwise. Ok, so lets assume you are filling your FWT with a non-functioning vent. And you "increase the pressure and blow those LBs out!" What would happen if you did? Actually this has been done, tested, and documented. The results are always the same. One such test report can be found at: https://blog.polyprocessing.com/blog/tank-pressurization-and-your-chemical-storage-tanks-service-life Here is a short version: "Poly Processing performed a test to failure with XLPE vs HDPE. We pressurized both tanks with water to the point of failure. The linear polyethylene tank catastrophically failed at 9 psi of water pressure. The cross-linked tank failed at 10 psi. So this is likely why OTT has very large FWT vent hose and separate ports for boon docking and FWT Fill. The Boondock line is not designed to be hooked up to a pressure system (ever). The Fresh Water Fill is a direct path to the FWT and it has an oversized vent. Just be careful to slow down the fill rate as you approach a full tank. Oh, and I recommend to not never use a "Bigger Hammer" just cause you can. It generally gets the job done, but with unintended results..... Ouch! Gotcha! LOL GJ

Your logic line is the same I used. I also figured that there was no way that the ground would ever get in the way of my Anderson that I had mounted below and in front of the rear bumper on our F-150. But alas a young driver on a very tight mountain switchback trail road proved me wrong. He unknowingly backed my TV into the sloped side of the mountain and crushed my TV Anderson plug. No electrical problems as I always turn off power at the battery circuit breaker when not towing. Experienced as your are, I know that you'll be wise when backing back up to bumper blocks and curbs. GJ

Yes, at least 99.85% of the time. And you are correct in that the OE2 fresh water fill, lines and tank is an open system. But the open part is only the fresh water fill tank overflow tube located in the area under the microwave space. This line vents out of the trailer just aft of our steps. Should mud daubers or other critters build their nest in that line, that open tank system no longer is. Problem with this line of logic is that many owners set their pressure at 40+ PSI. I am not at all sure what the OTT poly FWT is pressure rated for. And being that water is a non-compressible fluid, an over pressured tank would only fail with just a big puddle. Not like how pressurized compressible gasses act during failures. But could easily test to failure the FWT system to find out.... on your trailer! Actually funning aside, I wonder if OTT ever tried to blow up a FWT by overpressure? I suspect yes, hence the oversize vent tube..... But I'm just guessing. 🙂

One of our original purchases was a trash grabber: It works GREAT for pushing our milk crates back into the basement. But when removing the milk crates the vinyl flooring hooks the edge of the milk crate. So I tied a paracord "Yoke" to the base of the crate one one end, and to the door hinge on the other. By pulling the paracord "high", it lifts the milk crate just enough to pass that edge. Also a lot faster. GJ

I like keeping things Simple! Especially as I get older. John D turned me on to Sharpie Paint Markers for marking which way to hand crank down the jacks when you gotta. So, welcome to the "Simple is Smart" team.

Great idea!

I wish I needed new axles. So I could dream about getting 5200 axles with disk brakes and springs of my choice (written so as not to kick the sleeping Spring Bear topic). Bullet Proof! But then I would need to ask Crazy Horse to rob a bank to pay for it.......... GJ

Would love to have been one of the luck owners to benefit from the 3500 pound axle shortage and got the super duty 5200 pounders. I believe I remember that they can be upgraded to disk brakes which is an option that OTT really should consider for new trailers. Thanks for the low down Bill! GJ

LOL GJ

Anybody know the actual differences between the D35 and D52 axles? GJ

MANY of us run our A/C on Honda 2200 inverter generators. You would want an A/C unit that has that feature installed, or have a Soft Start installed. GJ

JD: Please do the same amp tests on your completed install as we posted earlier. Will be cool to compare yours, our and Art's numbers. GJ

I totally agree. Have the replacement receipt to prove I was glad I have and USE that breaker when not charging Ollie. See below. Unless you are off roading and/or other people are using your truck hauling gear and pilots up mountains. My Anderson 175 Amp connector is mounted under and in front of the rear bumper. I figured that It could not get damaged there. WRONG. Apparently one of our drivers was jacking the truck around a very tight corner and backed into the mountain. Due to the angle of the mountain, he did not bump the bumper, but he SURE DID tag that connector. Fortunately I don't off road with the circuit breaker energized. GJ

For my F-150 short box I wagged the distance at 80 feet. to that I would of course add 10%. But using a 100 foot long non-metallic measuring tape (Overkill for sure for this task), I actually measured three different paths for the 12/12-30. There is more stuff under there to weave through than I had considered. As a result I ordered out 110 feet of #4 AWG. I had two feet spare. I encourage owners to ACTUALLY MEASURE the path you intend on using and having at least 4' spare at the TV spare tire area for future reconnects. JD and Art: I have a now scheduled trip to NOLA and the Rally. Art (@MaxBurner) and I can get those numbers there. I am very interested to measure his 12-12/30 system that has #1 welding cables vs. my #4 BatteryCablesUSA premium cables. We can do so while charging with the TV and not. Will also check the battery B- to ground amperage. Good suggestions!

To go around the city on TX 8 (Sam Houston Toll Road) the fee as shown below is $42.75 for four axles. How you did that in 45 minutes is pretty amazing frankly. You were lucky in that you contacted them and only had to pay the TX Toll Tag rate of $12 with no "penalty" fees. Welcome to Texas.

Please advise what that route was. That is my home stomping grounds but have not had Ollie down there very much. thanks GJ

Just spent half an hour looking for "Rally Registration". Here is a shortcut: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/events/oliver-owners-rally/ GJ

Geronimo John and Ollie will be at F-25

Ralph: Based on the above, it appears that the gauge you are referring to is not coupled to a Victron Shunt. That would mean that the newer trailers are using their Gizmology to provide this info instead. Is that correct? For older units, and many of the ones that started out with wet cell/AGM from the factory that were subsequently upgraded with Litho's: We are using the Victron 712 Smart system. This system meters power in/out and calculates the SOC for us and also provides some limited other info as well.

🙂 Steph and Dud, Rivernerd, dhig: Thanks for filling in the details for the gizology of the new "Wonder Eggs". Way out of my wheel house. GJ

I took a look at your profile. If you were to share where in Central Texas you reside, likely there is an owner in the area who may be able to assist. If that is not possible, then you should submit a Service Ticket for your 2025 OE2. GJ

Most likely your Lithium Battery Management System has sensed a ultra low voltage (bad) and turned off the batteries. One of the above guys can discuss the process to bring them back on line as mine are different than yours. GJ