Geronimo John

Here are the ones I have. Hope it helps. BOM - Baker VIP 3000 Power Jack Parts List.docxOM - Barker VIP Power Jack 3000 Manual.pdf

I have seen many variants of home made Sheep Camp units in Utah and some in Colorado. They are not designed for extensive high way use. Most are hauled up the mountain and then moved a short distance to the next grazing field. Then the next year towed back to the first location. These however are way nicer than what the sheep herders I have seen using.

I would bet that the vast majority of the 415,800 HVAC tech's would not support automatic replacement of an broke HVAC unit. I would also bet that the the few who agree are likely sales staff...... 🙂 GJ **************************** how many AC repair techs are in USA According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, the number of technicians employed in the heating and refrigeration sector in the US rose between 2021 and 2022. According to the US Bureau of Labor Statistics, 415,800 heating, air conditioning, and refrigeration mechanics and installers were employed in the US in 2022.

Follow-up: For your Honeywell 1000 Pro: hook up the two sets to the Red and White terminals: For the Emerson Heat Only you remove the jumper wire and use the W and the RH terminals. Connect one set of two wires to each. Done.

Knowing your model (OE or OE2) and hull number would likely be of use to those trying to assist. In time you can add such info to your profile and tag line automatically at the bottom of all your posts. But for first timers you get a pass for sure. 🙂 Gj

Nan: When upgrading from the Dometic to Houghton A/C, the digital Dometic T-stat cannot easily be used. As such, the Suburban Heater will require a means to turn on/off and modulate temperature. An easy way to do this is to install a Heat Only T-stat. Several owners have used this process and it works. Most importantly you don’t need to be fishing wires thru the hull to do so. Heat only T-stats typically have 4 terminals. They have a temperature sensing element that opens or closes based upon temp for the heater. This “switch” is connected to two of the terminals. The onboard batteries of the T-stat powers its lights and control board. Two are needed for the Heat Only function. For the heat side of the T-stat you will need a power in (all the time) and a power out only when you have switched the T-stat on and it is below your set point. In most of our OTT's, the power in (+) is provide by the furnace which has a transformer for its controls. They have tapped the + side and sent them “TO” and “BACK from the Dometic via a pair of wires between the hulls up the curb side, over the roof to the A/C 14” X 14” roof penetration. To mount the Houghton, you disconnected them where they enter this roof penetration. The Dometic also uses the 12V + from the heater transformer to operate. The Dometic communicates with their transformer digitally. It uses a four-wire cable with very small wires from their onboard circuit board to its digital T-stat. It has four wires as I recall and with them it controls fan speed, mode (AC/Heat/Fan) and temp control. But these 4 wires individually are too small to carry the load from the heater all the way to the Dometic T-stat location AND back to the furnace. BUT... If you double up the four small Dometic digital wires into two each two pair they make circuit that will control the furnace when the T-state says to do so. So, that's how it works. Now you just need to connect the paired wires to the new thermostat. For that see the next post:

Wow that's STEM at work for sure. Riveting video. thanks for sharing. Watched very second. Thank for sharing! GJ GJ

I suspect that they have are looking at their growth rate projections. Better to have such a plan to first serve their existing customers. Then as the rest of their satelits get boosted to space, they will have the ability to support many more customers. Then hopefully a plan similar to the Garmin Sat Trackers would be offered. Basically an annual fee for all and then tiers of levels of service which can start/stop monthly if desired. Such a plan would be great for RV use. This thread was a head turner for me. Thanks for posting David and all for the update.

The flaw in much of the above opinions is assuming that the A/C unit will remain on high fan. In reality if you arrive at a hot trailer you want the unit to run on high fan (To drop temperature) and then as the temperature falls, the have the unit automatically cycle the fan down to a low speeds. Granted it will not get the humidity as low as a perfectly right sized unit that runs 24/7 can. But it certainly is the best control path for the vast majority of users. This is precisely how, and why, most vehicle A/C systems are designed. I agree that a smaller unit can dehumidify better than a larger one. Also that a larger one can cool down a hot trailer faster. But to say which is better is a fallacy. Why? It depends: If we stay in our trailer all day and are using shore power: I would buy the smaller sized unit to run 24/7. If we are in hot and/or humid conditions, and are not in the trailer all day, especially without shore power, the bigger unit has the edge because you have a LOT of latent heat to dissipate. Sort of like the "Spring Fiasco", the right decision absolutely depends on how YOU use YOUR rig. There is no one right answer that fits all situations for this topic as well. In my case, I want the quietest unit available. I want high capacity as we are a "Type 2" customer. For those reasons the Houghton 13.5 was my pick. I went into the purchase knowing that a simple relay would fix the continuous running fan problem and suspecting that moving the thermistor would fix the cycling issue. But I'm a DIY guy and can fix them. I'm not going to trumpet the Houghton for most owners as that is not something that many could or would not want to take on. Also, until I have personally executed the two mods I have no real world basis to report their success or failure. If the Mods work, as my 50 years as a M.E. tells me they will, then that is a different situation. Just have to get to my rig in July to make it happen. I believe that making changes to our OE2's needs to be done cautiously and with study. If you have the luxury of time, I would not be buying an A/C just yet. Let the pioneer DIYers do their thing and report back in the Fall their real world experiences for how they used their trailers and how their A/C performed. Also let the new guys on the block get an opportunity to find the bugs in their units as well. GJ

Looks like you are back to what TopGun2 suggested. You would want to let the test run for several days, starting with a full SOC at the beginning. True your SOC indicator reading would no longer be valid, but at least you could get a voltage delta from the terminals. It should be VERY close to .1V or so. If it is higher, then using a Litho chart will let you wag the SOC change. Not real accurate, but if the voltages effectively do not change, then you know for sure it is not battery internal energy consumption to heat. GJ

For someone that's not a DIY capable, then there is some reduced value for the wiring that is no longer provided on all newer trailers. Older ones have wiring between the solar entry (Hidden in front of the Max Fan) run between the hulls over the roof to the street side storage area. But I seriously doubt that OTT would have also eliminated the pathway to do so. Why? Service still needs it when an owner wants to add solar. Also, more than a few owners have run electrical wiring between the hulls for varius purposes in several places. I'll be posting on this topic after I do just such a run this summer for a Houghton mod GJ

I trust your homework. It's better than what I took the time to better research. Well done. Only 2 items that maybe needs a relook; The first is that all sealed units don't need recharging in the real world. Leaks can and do occurr. As the units age the coils often age out before other components. Any such normal service may involve pump down and recharge after repairs. The second is the statement about phase out of all R410A units. There appears to be a carve out for our stype of units, at least according to the HVAC School site: https://hvacrschool.com/r-410a-phase-down-update/#:~:text=Details of EPA Final Rule&text=This rule contains restrictions on,-year sell-through perio Details of EPA Final Rule: https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2023/10/24/2023-22529/phasedown-of-hydrofluorocarbons-restrictions-on-the-use-of-certain-hydrofluorocarbons-under-the "The EPA published its final rule on October 24th, 2023. This rule contains restrictions on the use of HFCs starting in 2025. Self-contained HVAC systems using R-410A will no longer be manufactured or imported after January 1st, 2025, but there is a three-year sell-through period. Self-contained or packaged units can be sold, exported, and installed through January 1st, 2028." Regardless, I think it prudent to buy a R30 unit as suggested... whether a tree hugger or not. 🙂 Thanks for the schooling on the topic. GJ

If it does, then the higher flammability of R-32, "Confined Space of an Ollie, and higher Toxicity of the R32 likely will require AUTOMATIC mitigation systems. For residential units, they are talking about leak detection and auto exhaust/circulation fans to mitigate these known concerns. Until all that happens, then likely we'll run another generation of the R410a units. Unlike R-12, there will be service availability of R-410 to at least 2030 one source indicated. Regardless if you have the training and several machines using R-410A, you can still purchase it without an HVAC License. However, some things are best left to those that do. GJ

Please translate. Is it your TV with a class 5 hitch? If so, that's serious good!

2 X 6 equivalent's. Metal siding. Originally only rafter bracing in the corners. They fight torsion of the whole barn. His problem did not show up for 15 years. Then I noticed it buffeting just a 1/4" in flanking wind gusts. Five years later it had loosened up to an inch movement. It was setting off his alarm system by then. PM me and I'll send pictures. You are correct on the OSB sheathing helping. In time it will do less so. But cross bracing, even if it only steel straps in an X-Pattern is your best first investment. Then All four corner posts both ways. Ditto for the trusses. Then Simpson Strong Ties for the rafters to the walls and walls to the foundation. Over Kill? Ten years ago - Yes. Now with all the severe weather it is now NO - Almost every place. So what would it cost you in time and materials with the scaffolding handy? Consider it as cheap insurance. Consider the cost of loss of your Ollie and Tractor? GJ

Buying anything that increases the trailer height would not be a positive move for many of us. Weight, width, length all to a point, would be less so. GJ

My friendss barn where I park my OE2 is of the same construction design. Even with lean-to wings on both long sides, the barn was showning high wind instability due to not having cross bracing. Summer 2023 we corrected that with a significant amount of them at every corner, and also with horizontal under cross bracing of the trusses above. Easy to do now with the scaffolding! Great barn design otherwise. Your Ollie and you will love it! GJ

Where I come from, we call yours a "Stump Grinder". LOL. Seriously, you do have some tough weeds out in the desert. But this is a long way from air compressors.

With a dead battery, or a Master Battery Switch "OFF", we should not move our trailers. I believe that all the OTT trailers have the Dexter Emergency Brake magnets connected to the OTT battery bank. GJ

That's exactly what came to my minds-eye. I remember seeing one of these when I was very young. Upside down it would work great as both a pull out limiter and a support for the plastic. It's called a shoulder yoke. For ease of install way back there, one could use some Gorilla Tape around the ends. GJ

But I bet my weed Mil Spec weed killer tool is MUCH faster than yours! Wait for it! GJ

JD: You take the cake with a "Real Man's" weed wacker!

An unbiased review from a dire hard Makita guy. If I were servicing on a daily basis 55+ PSI tires, I too would get the Milwaukee, despite its much higher price and being less versatile. But my use is just for my 40 PSI TV & Ollie. So, I'll keep my five year old and still going strong DeWalt team.

In my SOB previous camper, I had a B.P. A friend suggested your approach and I learned just how fast S*it can travel. Definitely needed a change of cloths. Instead, pop three or four dishwasher pods into the tank and take it out for a bumpy twisty turney road for 20 miles. Then try again. I'll bet it works.... Unless your B.P. is ancient, like from last year. The refer to Steph's approach. But be faster than I was.............

You recommended the Nitto's some time ago. I put a set on my TV and LOVE them! Good tire all around. 🙂 G Thank for the in-depth on the Wildpeak tires. I like the no stone tossing tread and super sidewall design. For that reason I would not put the Nitto's on Ollie. Like mentioned, I want my TV to Tow and my Trailer to Follow without hurting Ollie". And the price is reasonable for E-rated tires.