Geronimo John

One lesson to be learned is the impact of a strong 5 stack spring vs. the far more compliant 4 leaf. Certainly the strong stack will transmit forces to the trailer frame much more than a wimpy 4 stack. With stronger axles the same effect will take place. So, with super spring and super axles, super shocks will likely be needed to contain those forces. To visualize, consider the ride of a F-150 vs. a F-350 dual axle, both unloaded. Put a dozen eggs in the bed of a F-150 and a F-350. Likely the eggs in the F-350 will be scrambled for you. Ditto with Ollie and stiff suspensions. This is likely why Mr. Oliver went with the 4 leaf. Suspension compliancy when hitting obstructions is a way for the energy to be ameliorated. The parts that do this are the tires, springs. EZ Flex, and shock "Team". Reduce the compliance by having 50 PSI tires, strong springs and axles.... and the extra energy is transmitted to the load. Remember you WANT to have the axle moving up and down within the range of our suspension system clearance ... and for our OTT's that is not a lot of headroom..... Knowing the amount of impact our rigs can handle and not imprint witness marks on the frame for both the cases is really important. Also to understand that the damping(I.E. energy to be absorbed) that is necessary to slow down and stop the rebounding of a heavier suspension is substantially greater than to do so with a lighter one. It will be interesting to see how all this plays out with this grand experiment in suspension design. I recommend that you start out using the Michelin Tire Pressure Table (Sub 30 PSI if I recall for our weights) and then move up to higher tire pressures as you gain experience with how the new design will perform. Go slow and safe and observe performance before trying it out at hammer down. I know I will be in July when I get my rig upgraded. GJ

Very fortunate catch! I hope that you are correct in that the Monroe's were defective. I highly recommend checking the new ones in 10,000 miles to see if they are OK. If yes, SUPER.

Steve: You are set to fall from a 3th floor to the concrete ground. You can choose between wearing multiple layers Bubble Wrap or Alloy Steel? or this: Conclusion: In many instances, more steel is the wrong answer. So far, it appears that we, Dexter Techs, and ALCAN Techs all seem to agree on is that the OEM 1750-pound 4 leaf springs were not strong enough to haul the OE2’s at the weights and uses we today are requiring. I continue to believe that increasing the load capacity to 2400-pound rated 4 leaf is the better solution for the OE2 fleet. Why? Because I feel that a 37% increase in a 4-leaf spring capacity (as compared to OEM 1750) is sufficient capacity and the ride of a 4-leaf spring is less harsh than the 5-leaf option. On the other hand, the 2750-pound rated 5 leaf springs would be a 1,000-pound increase per spring, a 57% increase in rating. That much spring and being a 5-leaf will result in too harsh a ride for the OE2. It likely will exasperate frame weld failures, as well as other ride related issues. So, we agree to disagree. When OTT decides to wade in on this discussion remains to be seen. But likely it will be evident in follow on year’s products. GJ

Good news: No screen to clog. Bad news: With no screen sediment and "Stuff" will be sucked up into your system. Resulting in low water pressure and at times no flow due to sediment, plastic from MFG, and some plastic from OTT as they install plumbing. GJ

Motorola had it's reasons for the design of their land mobile hand held radios. We need to keep in mind who at the time their PRIMARY customer was.... The Military. Troops in the field have used their heavy, ugly, bulky, near water and mud proof and almost indestructable hand held radios successfully for many years. They have even been used as a weapon of last resourt to throw at combatant. We called them a "Brick" for that reason. Did I mention heavy? Any troop could pick up one and use it. Push and talk it communicated. But for the civilian perspectice you are spot on...... GJ

I do the same thing. With air bags, it also helps to get-er-nose high! GJ

Exactly! We also always park Ollie a bit nose high to: Keep the Refer door closing vs. free swinging to a hinge lock out. Allow the Houghton over roof drainage to mostly miss the street side rear window. I need shoulder room so sleep head forward. I also like to sleep up hill. Even if you are hyper vigilant with water sources, stuff will accumulate in any fresh water tank. Especially if boondocking, or using well, or rain water. I have alwlays considered the last 4 or 5 gallons of fresh water in the tank as the "Sludge Zone". It was designed with an elevated pump draw tube. This is a standard "Good Engineering Practice" for all freshwater tanks. So for some of us getting those last 4 or 5 gallons would result in getting "Stuff" into our fresh water distribution systems. But for ALL of us, regardless if you do or do not do the mod, it is extremely important that you filter every drop of water you onboard. Even if you only fill out of your special home tap. Not doing so will result in silt and other "Stuff" accumulating in your tank. Now here is where I'll stir the pot: We all are aware that the drain port on these tanks is way too small for effective flushing. So if I were to choose a FWT mod, for a new trailer, it would have OTT put a 1" drain line in, and not mess with the draw tube design. GJ UPDATED: Spoke with experienced OTT Tech's and Art: The Fresh Water Tank is a PITA to get out. So the recommendation should say that for new trailers, a larger drain port and valve would make a lot of good sense.

I agree in principal recognize your TAKE OUR CHANCES perspective. Packing light and as a result often rolling the dice works well for a lot of RV owners. Others pack heavy and could never go where you and I like to go. Then there are others of us that are actually somewhere in the middle. It is all good. It is also good that our "spares/emergency/DIY gear) is different. No point in running across a situation and having the exact same gear. Better for our response if our Kits are different. MORE OPTIONS. I would wager that we both, and many others, carry gear that gives us more options so that we don't have to roll the dice very often. Also that neither of us go overboard on the weight or space side. GJ UPDATE: Talked to knowledgable OTT techs and pulling the FWT is a PITA. Not something they or I would recommend for any mod. So I did suggest that they increase the plug prone tank drain to 3/4" or 1" to facilitate tank flushing.

Aesthetically pleasing, low aerodynamic impact, and high power output, and not damaging to our Gel Coat! Been waiting 6 years for the technology to mature. Now we need to add at a "reasonable cost". GJ

I have lots of experience where my travel companion, Mr. Murphy, often trumps a pair of Odds. 🙂 GJ

Single point of failure means you have no options. I like having options. Such is especially important for running our Refrigerator and Furnace is important. For the Refer, our OEM was gas, 12V, and 120V. For replacements I'll not go with the gas (High risk of fire) and get one that can run on either 12V or 120V. Add to that a good quality "5-Day" ice chest. For Heat: I suggest getting a quiet heat pump when you replace your Hammer Mill OEM one. Next a 120V 1500 watt electric resistance heater. IF you are doing a lot of cold weather camping to also get one of the safer propane fired portable heaters and a couple of small disposable propane gas cylinders like these as well. GJ

Chris: If you have water coming inside and onto your bunk, and it is not coming from above the window (As you determined), then I would clean the window tracks. It is a common source of water intrusion that many of us have experienced. Here is my cobbled together DIY for the task. GJHow To Clean OE2 Window Tracks.docx

Lived in Sandy, UT for 8 years and loved all the wide open spaces. Their National and State Parks are amazing! Super glad you are having a great trip. With a 23 year old diesel, I suspect you are seeing some age related issues. When newer those diesel 2500 trucks would pull loads a lot heavier up just about anything and not overheat. Suggestions: A transmission cooler upgrade. I would replace the thermostat if it is also OEM or even just 10 years old. They can corrode/wear out and then not open fully when needed with older age. If still a problem, consider having your radiator "boiled out with chemical" professionally done. Question: What is this on the roof of your truck? John

A few years back, another owner was concerned as well. I suggested using Rivet Nuts and SS bolts with fender washers to increase the contact area. Would work better than STS's. Sorry for the pain this service tech caused you. GJ

My 2018 Owner's manual shows I have this one. But the below does not seem to match the above. So since I am wanting to purchase a thermocouple for MY unit, which parts list would I use from the above? Sure wish I could just walk out to my imaginary Texas Man Cave and look myself..... GJ

OK, I'm confused. Is it a Dometic or an Atwood? From the Panther sites, it appears that the Dometics are not the Atwoods. Please clear my foggy mind or some strong coffee! Which model does our our OE2's have GJ

For owners with hard water sources, some of the defensive measure are: Filtration of incoming water. Frequent vinegar de-calcification. Lowering the hot water temperature set point. Using a city water pressure "L" shaped flushing wand to flush solids from your hot water tank. Use it more than just at end of season! Keeping a good quality anode in the hot water heater. If you see wire, you waited too long. Remove faucet aerators and wands for vinegar cleaning at least annually. While you have them removed, full flow flushing your lines one at a time. Do hot and cold flushing separately, not at the same time. Avoid very hard water sources when you can. Or at least don't fill your fresh water tank full if you can get by with less. Fully drain and flush your water systems at the end of the season even if you do not winterize! Consider wands that have bigger holes. All of the above will help reduce problems. But if you find that they don't, you'll need to consider using a water softener to lower the hardness of water from all your water supply sources. Here is one of the reviews for the ten best water softeners for RV's. https://buyersguide.org/water-softener-for-RV/t/best?Country=US&m=e&d=c&c=659084136666&p=&oid=kwd-2066914159841&lp=9032812&li=&nw=g&nts=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw88yxBhBWEiwA7cm6pTq4CWP-deBiQy2P_b4K_q0yn0LBGjkFPVOQI0RMo0TMsFYO411bcxoC-wUQAvD_BwE&tdid=10957326&gad_source=1 GJ PS: For an OE2 you do not need a 16,000 grain water softener. Take a look at what other owners are using via our forum.

Hard water can easily calcify those really small nozzles thereby reducing flow substantially.

Yep, such countermeasures are not compatable with wind sensor auto roll up systems. Gotta pick your poison. This one works for us: "Leave, roll-er-up" seems to work every time. For this purpose, I consider sleeping or not in use is the same as leaving. GJ

Actually the standard valve settings posted under the hatch have nothing to do with isolation of the HWH from the system when winterizing. To isolate the hot water you use the valve that is located low behind the small portal on the street side in front of the HWH. Hard to find the first time for sure.... GJ

First, I would suggest getting the plumbing part from a big box store. Almost none of the plumbing is "special". For the aluminum storage box, suggest you ask if any of the owners who have upgraded to the nice enclosed boxes would like to sell their unused OTT aluminum boxes. Likely get one for half price... GJ

One was created a year or so ago. Posted on the forum. I"m thinking it was GalwayGirl. Anybody recall? It was quite detailed and listed several years of forum QC items to check. Impressive actually. GJ

2008RN Roger. It will be this summer, likely in late July. GJ

Going Costal: 1000% agree with all! Your post reminded me to get a spare thermocouple! Thanks. GJ

This is a nice start on the cost rollback for the system. If you are buying new axles, are the cost of disks vs. drums a wash? Then you need hydraulic lines and the EOHA. Does this bring the costs down significantly enough for reconsideration as your "This Summer's" project? GJ