Ollie-Haus

Leave it to a mom to get your attention with properly timed "colorful" language! 🤣

Love it @ScubaRx. When it comes to fabrication, there's always a solution.

Thanks @rich.dev for the attached links. As was mentioned above, I also would advise against mounting a tray or box by the 1.25" receiver. There's a lot of dynamic load with an extended cargo tray, or bike rack for that matter. The single point Oliver hitch allows a lot of movement side to side and up and down. The two point mount used by those of us that installed boxes or trays inherently provides a high level of stability as well as a direct mount to the trailer main frame rails. Also the 2" sockets at those locations allow you to use a heavy wall 2" square tube which substantially increases the strength of those connections. Even mounted by the 2" tubes, you still use the hitch pins Oliver used to secure the bike rack mounting frame. This still allows the tray or box to be quickly removed for installing a bike rack or service needs. All this having been said, I still believe you should limit the total weight mounted to the back to the maximum that Oliver recommends. The tray or box mounted doesn't extend much farther from the bumper than a double bike rack would, so the loads should be somewhat similar to those exerted by two bikes mounted on the Oliver mount. But again the cargo box is mounted directly with two points that are extremely stable and secure. Just my thoughts. Edit: Additional thoughts. Regardless of your method of mounting a cargo box, clearance for the lid to open without hitting the spare tire cover must be considered. Also if you make the mounting tubes extend far enough into the frame sockets, you will be able to slide the box back far enough to remove the spare tire without completely removing the box from the trailer. This was very important to me because complete removal requires two people and sliding it back enough for tire access can be done by one person.

Hi Joe, At this time the best approach is to contact Oliver customer service and they will direct you the best route forward. For a dealer list, go to the Oliver home page, click on the shopping tools tab at the top of the page, then click on the gold "Find a Dealer Nearby" button on the upper left of the page.

Never had any doubts, but thanks for the update and reassurance!

Get over yourself "engineer". Your condescending intros always prefacing with your "credentials" that make you smarter than the rest are overbearing. I'm no engineer and this is all very elementary to me. And I think the large majority are taking it all in stride. There's probably well over a thousand who have not chimed in on the topic because they are level headed folks that are just rolling with the process, or just don't care. The sky's not falling and the Oliver managers are still running the company with the same integrity they always have. What's up in the air right now is the character and integrity of a few people that are throwing a hissy fit cause they aren't getting their way. Oliver management could choose to fold the company and cash it all in, and they would still be within their rights to do so. Either way I would still shake their hands and thank them for making me one of the best campers ever built.

............ and all of that was stated in Jason's message to the owners. I must be missing something. "Our customer support team will still be available to assist with any questions and work with you and our dealer partners to get any services you need resolved." "However, we will continue doing major repairs, including fiberglass and aluminum, at our Plant Facility." "If you have any questions or require further information regarding this update, please do not hesitate to contact us or call us at 1-888-526-3978. We are always here to assist you."

The day after we accepted an offer on our house a couple years ago, the neighbor was sitting in his car on his phone when he arrived home about 2 am. A car pulled into our driveway that was parallel to theirs about 20 feet away with a hedge in between. He could hear a couple arguing in our driveway about moving into the house since it was empty. We wouldn't be closing for two weeks and were still moving items out when this happened. I suspect the perps were able to tell the status of the house via Zillo information on line. The people in the driveway that night had foreign accents. Between the neighbors and myself we had to maintain a vigil and I slept in the house until the buyers could take possession at closing. This has been very much on the rise in the Indianapolis area.

The supply line is fitted with a "T" fitting and feeds each accumulator equally. The discharge from each accumulator connects to the system with the same "T" configuration. Thus each accumulator is supplying equal amount of pressurized water. You now have twice as much water available under pressure from the two accumulators operating equally at the same rate. This of course is limited to the total flow capacity of the water lines supplying and receiving, and both accumulators must be operating equally. With two accumulators connected in series, the one closest to the demand starts depleting and the second one is only trying to recharge the first one rather than supplying additional water flow to the open tap. It's kind of like several people standing next to each other and trying to pass objects to each other in a chain and filling a box with widgets. If the four people would just individually transfer the items they could from the one container to the other, the rate of transfer would be much faster than if each person has to handle every item being transferred. Edit: One other thing is the space is very limited so configuring the parallel connection would be the biggest challenge. On the other hand, what's wrong with the pump coming on when the faucet is opened? What's the difference between 5 seconds till pump kicks on compared to 10 seconds? You have used no extra water in the process and the electrical usage is negligible. Complicating a system for nearly zero gain is kind of pointless.

You have them connected in series. They will actually "fight" each other in this configuration and this would actually reduce the effectiveness of the system. They would have to be connected parallel to have a beneficial effect.

Jason, I’ve attached a video only for audio purposes, it was recorded in pitch darkness near the lake at the rally last year. You’ll need to crank up the volume. Early morning and late evening walks in the park are very pleasant. Hope you can make it to the rally. IMG_5665.mov

Just sent off an email to Alcan Spring for information for a set of 4 springs for our LE2. I would like to be proactive in replacing the springs in my driveway rather than on the side of the highway. Plus I am a real big fan of supporting American manufacturing companies.

Keep in mind that four wheel alignment becomes a periodic maintenance requirement with independent suspension. There's always trade offs so depending on your style of camping. Also there are a lot of other possible fail points with that system. It's a very complex system. I wander what the cost of a conversion would be? Edit: PS - The beauty of the current suspension is you can pick up replacement parts rather cheap, albeit not lifetime quality, at any local farm store and be back on the road in hours. The high end suspension would likely require sourcing parts long distance that would have at least a few days lead time. I think I would be hard pressed to consider this type of upgrade.

Willie is a beauty and also a lucky kitty. Thanks for posting and also, Welcome to the forum! 👍

I just ordered a set of these a couple days ago for Ollie-Haus. Our hinges are the new style of course so install should be quick and painless. We've experienced the wind catching the door and quickly realized we needed the extra level of "assist" for protecting the door assembly.