Rivernerd

Thanks for running the test. It is very helpful! I will test my inverter again tomorrow with the microwave running, and compare the readings on the FXC control app with those you provided, then post the results.

Thanks for the reference. I just found a reference to type JLE-1-41340-250 breakers in a Lithionics manual. The photo of that breaker suggests it is designed to be installed in a panel, like circuit breakers in a household electrical system. The Optifuse 300A circuit breaker is mounted on a PVC board near the inverter, not in a panel. When I jumped the Optifuse breaker, the voltage drop was reduced from 1.2V to 0.8V under a 1500 watt load (the microwave). 0.8V is still too much, according to Jason Essary, who reported a 0.4V to 0.5V voltage drop when testing another Elite II with the same inverter. But, the reduced voltage drop, with the breaker jumpered, enabled me to run the microwave for 5 minutes without inverter shutdown, as the DC voltage displayed on the Xantrex remote never dropped below 12.2V. I stopped the test at 5 minutes, because I was not comfortable running a DC circuit with a 1500 watt load for very long with no breaker protection. Didn't want to start a fire! I am not an electrical engineer. Do any of you engineering types out there have any suggestions for possible solutions?

This new thread is a spinoff from the Door Lock Problems thread. I mentioned the issue with the Xantrex inverter to commiserate with the poster who had the door lock issue. So, here's the issue with the Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 watt inverter: it inverts as expected with loads up to 1100 watts (like the Truma air conditioner), but loads like the 1500 watt microwave cause a low-voltage shutdown after a few seconds (sometimes) or a few minutes (at other times). This seems to be affected by battery state of charge. Voltage drop when under load is normal; I am advised that a 0.4V to 0.5V drop under large inverter loads is normal. But our 3000 watt inverter shows voltage drops from 0.9V to 1.1V when a 1500 watt load is engaged. If, for example, the voltage reported on the Seelevel monitor is 13.1V, engaging a 1500 watt load will cause an immediate drop down to 12.4V on the Xantrex display, then less than a minute later, down to 12.2, then 12.1 and finally 12.0 in less than 3 minutes. The inverter then does a low-voltage shutdown. This limitation makes the microwave unusable on inverted power at State of Charge levels below 75%. With lots of responsive help from Jason Essary, I have been troubleshooting first the DC side, then the 120V AC side of the trailer wiring. I have found no loose connections which may cause the unexplained DC voltage drop. This included removing the 300A Optifuse breaker from the DC side (by placing both the lug from the battery and the lug to the inverter on the input side of the Optifuse breaker. That produced only a 0.1V improvement in DC voltage drop with a 1500 watt load. A post by Tom and Doreen on the Door Lock Problems thread suggested the source of the voltage drop could be the Optifuse breaker, and that Lithionics specifies a different breaker, which may have a much lower resistance specification. Is anyone else with the 3000 watt inverter having this issue when using the microwave on inverted power? What 300A breaker does Lithionics specify? Could that be the answer?

What circuit breaker does Lithionics specify for use with a 3000 watt inverter? I have searched, but not yet found a reference. I may replace the Optifuse and see if that resolves the issue. And, I will start a new post on the Xantrex inverter issue, as this is a thread drift, yet others may benefit from the information posted.

Have you tried adjusting the directional vanes, and the "front vs. rear" slide switch in the bottom middle of the unit? That slide switch can divert air flow either all forward, all aft, or a combination of the two. And, the rotating directional vanes can move air flow side to side.

Do you turn off the Master Light switch when you leave the trailer? When that switch is off, our touch lights all go off too.

Before we took delivery of Hull #1291 last November, I compiled a list of nearly 100 potential manufacturing defects reported by previous Oliver owners. Strike plate misalignment was not one of them. Fortunately for us, our door and latches were installed correctly. Sorry you are the victim of poor door and strike plate installation. Even though your DIY remedy was effective, I recommend you submit a service ticket, so the Oliver Service Department is advised of yet another sorry failure by the folks in the manufacturing department. Kinda sucks when you pay so much for an Oliver, doesn't it? Lest you feel unlucky, I have spent most of the last several days troubleshooting inverter issues, and sealing the external screw heads on the Truma air conditioner (after leakage) in our 6-month-old Elite II (at Truma's recommendation). Jason Essary has provided indispensable help with the electrical troubleshooting, and even initiated the Xantrex warranty case for me. Our 3000 watt Xantrex inverter won't invert more than 1100 watts for more than a few minutes without shutting down, even when the batteries are at 100% State of Charge. Although it is frustrating to experience such issues with a nearly new, and very expensive, trailer, Oliver's Service Department has provided invaluable service helping me isolate the source of the problem, and pursue warranty relief. It appears to me that quality control in Oliver's production facility remains unacceptable for such a premium product. But, Oliver's Service Department, and particularly Jason Essary, continue to effectively counterbalance those oversights with exemplary customer service after you take delivery.

Who am I to dispute what Truma says about its products? That said, attached are three photos showing: (1) one of the two filters removed from our Truma Aventa air conditioner on the countertop above the fridge; (2) a close-up of the filter, so you can see the plastic honeycomb and (3) me washing a filter in our home kitchen sink. Silly me for thinking they could be washed instead of replaced for $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$!

The Additional 30A Convenience Connection is not just for generators. It is truly for the "convenience" of being able to plug a 30A power source, whether regular shore power or a generator, into the curb side of the trailer. That said, the fact that plugging shore power into that 30A curb side inlet did not charge your batteries suggests that your transfer switch is not working. If you had only the primary 30A inlet on the street side, you would not have a transfer switch. But when the additional 30A inlet is added, a transfer switch must also be added. The transfer switch is designed to direct power from whichever inlet is used to the trailer's electrical system. Many Oliver owners have had issues with their transfer switches. That is one reason we don't have an Additional 30A Convenience Connection on Hull #1291. But since you have it, it should be functioning properly for safety. I recommend you ask your "RV doctor" to take a look at your transfer switch, and probably replace it, so your electrical system will work as designed.

I bought the Truma Level Check before we took delivery on Hull #1291 last November. I found it cumbersome to have to remove the "doghouse" every time I needed to check propane level. After we returned home to Idaho, I purchased the Mopeka system, along with two of the Mopeka tank halos. The halos create sufficient clearance for the tank sensors, so I did not need the included metal shims. The sensors are somewhat sensitive to positioning, so they must be carefully centered on the bottom of the tank. And, when tanks are refilled, I double-check sensor location before hefting the full tanks back into the tank enclosure. The sensors coordinate seamlessly with the Mopeka app, so I do not need the monitor. The wireless range is good--about 75 feet, so I have had no issues with checking tank levels using the app inside the tow vehicle or the Ollie. https://technorv.com/products/mopeka-sensor-2-pack?variant=43661556875484&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8fDYiPLW_gIV5CutBh3DXAlWEAQYBSABEgKq3PD_BwE I am pleased so far with the performance of the system. Much better than having to go outside and remove the "doghouse" to check tank levels!

The Truma Aventa filters are washable plastic grids. I have removed them, but have not needed to use the air conditioner enough yet to need to clean them. They are reusable.

I find removing the propane tank cover to be cumbersome, and hard on my aged back. I can do it, but don't like to do it very often. Removing the porthole cover is easy, and enables me to reach in and turn the propane tank valves on and off.

The nubs on ours broke off on the way home from Tennessee to Idaho. I opened a service ticket with Oliver, but was advised that the manufacturer does not warrant them. I could not find an exact replacement for the one Oliver installed in the propane tank cover. So, I ordered this screw-in 6" porthole assembly from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZZWYNVL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Because the one Oliver uses has nubs that fit into the outside ring, to install the screw-in kind, I had to remove the original ring from the porthole cover and replace it with the ring that comes with the screw-in replacement. Not very hard, just remove 6 screws, pull the ring out, and use the same screws to install the ring that comes with the replacement. You should only have to do this once. The screw-in replacement is much more secure than the one Oliver uses, and has no nubs to break off.

Spot on. In my "real world" experience, a generator recharges our 390 Ah batteries much faster than the solar panels, even when parked in direct sunlight at mid-day.

It looks in this photo like the top of the flex housing is threaded. Have you tried twisting it into a vertical position, then screwing it back in to the flange above it? If this method works, it would be easier than drilling out and replacing the pop rivets, after securing the flex housing to the flange in some way.

Oliver must have started doing that labeling with the 2023 model year. Our late 2022 doesn't have the labeling. But, now that I've seen yours, I think I'll grab our label maker and add some of my own. Thanks for posting!

Fridge or freezer? I periodically use Aquaseal (which is urethane) to attach drysuit gaskets. I store it in our freezer between uses, which keeps it usable for years.

Another vote for X-chocks here. We now install both X-chocks between the two wheels on each side, then rubber chocks purchased from Harbor Freight, then the red chocks that come with the Rophor trailer levelers (see link below) on the downhill side of each of the four wheels, before disconnecting the tow vehicle. Don't ask why that has become a key priority when unhitching the tow vehicle.... https://www.amazon.com/Rophor-Levelers-Leveling-Anti-Slip-Carrying/dp/B096FCYKS3/ref=asc_df_B096FCYKS3/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=533588307500&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5425665857993129828&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-1419632579497&psc=1

My 2022 Elite II is the same as your 2021. I am following this thread with interest, because I am having issues with my inverter as well, and may end up replacing it. Yep, drilling through that nice gelcoat into the aisle, and leaving four less-than-attractive bolt heads visible on the aisle side is just what is being proposed. I expect Oliver doesn't do this during production because it would significantly degrade the appearance. I hope I don't have to do that to our Ollie. But, we leave the bed made up most of the time, so the bolt heads would rarely be visible.

Good choice. Truma will not allow the installation of a Micro -Air Easy start in its air conditioners, and specifies 3kw to run them.

We have two Champion 2200 watt dual fuel inverter/generators, with the Paralink kit. Together, operating from one propane tank with a splitter, they provide enough power to run our Truma Aventa air conditioner, or recharge our Lithionics batteries in a few hours. Why two? Weight. I am an old guy with bilateral torn rotator cuffs and a bad back. I can lift one 2200 watt unit in and out of my pickup bed without risking further injury. The 4500 watt unit, at 97 lbs., weighs too much for me.

According to a quick Google search, the Ram Promaster 3500 cargo van has 4330 lbs. of payload capacity, or more. If I am not mistaken, the 3500 level Dodge trucks and vans are in the "1 ton" category. I would say "no" to a 1500, but a 3500? We tow our LEII with a Tundra, which has 1465 lb. payload capacity. Granted, the Tundra requires a weight distribution hitch, and we are on the payload margin with 550-600 lbs. tongue weight, two of us plus gear, but with 4330 lbs. of payload capacity, and 6410 lbs. towing capacity, I would think the Ram 3500 cargo van would be in the "o.k." range. What am I missing?

Thanks for your informative post. And please forgive what may be a dumb question, but here goes: "Why did you disable the black battery charging wire in your tow vehicle, instead of running wire from the new Lithionics batteries in the Oliver to the DC/DC charger, and then to that black wire in the 7-pin?" Intuitively, it seems to me that the purpose of installing a DC/DC charger in the trailer is to safely transmit the juice generated by the tow vehicle alternator to the trailer LiFePO4 battery bank. What am I missing?

We just returned from a week on the Oregon Coast. During our return trip to Idaho, we encountered several miles of freshly sanded snow/slush as we drove across Tombstone Pass. It coated the back end of our Ollie with fine grit. We also found that sand-laden water had worked its way through the rear window and left a trail of grit from the bottom of the window downward across the belly band. When I asked Oliver Service how to reseal the rear window to prevent this from happening again, Jason Essary advised me to check if the weep holes were clogged. Sure enough, the weep holes had gotten packed with fine road sand, which apparently allowed the sand/water mix to get inside. Cleaning the weep holes out with a jet of water was the solution, not re-sealing the window. Lesson learned: If you find a leak around a window, the first thing to check is the weep holes!

Good advice. But, whether the tires need to be replaced will depend on how much UV exposure they have had. If the trailer was stored mostly indoors over the 7-year life, and the trailer doesn't have many miles on it, the tires could still be in good shape. At a minimum, carefully inspect the tires for cracking. If some is found, bite the bullet and replace them all.