Rivernerd

Who am I to dispute what Truma says about its products? That said, attached are three photos showing: (1) one of the two filters removed from our Truma Aventa air conditioner on the countertop above the fridge; (2) a close-up of the filter, so you can see the plastic honeycomb and (3) me washing a filter in our home kitchen sink. Silly me for thinking they could be washed instead of replaced for $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$!

The Additional 30A Convenience Connection is not just for generators. It is truly for the "convenience" of being able to plug a 30A power source, whether regular shore power or a generator, into the curb side of the trailer. That said, the fact that plugging shore power into that 30A curb side inlet did not charge your batteries suggests that your transfer switch is not working. If you had only the primary 30A inlet on the street side, you would not have a transfer switch. But when the additional 30A inlet is added, a transfer switch must also be added. The transfer switch is designed to direct power from whichever inlet is used to the trailer's electrical system. Many Oliver owners have had issues with their transfer switches. That is one reason we don't have an Additional 30A Convenience Connection on Hull #1291. But since you have it, it should be functioning properly for safety. I recommend you ask your "RV doctor" to take a look at your transfer switch, and probably replace it, so your electrical system will work as designed.

I bought the Truma Level Check before we took delivery on Hull #1291 last November. I found it cumbersome to have to remove the "doghouse" every time I needed to check propane level. After we returned home to Idaho, I purchased the Mopeka system, along with two of the Mopeka tank halos. The halos create sufficient clearance for the tank sensors, so I did not need the included metal shims. The sensors are somewhat sensitive to positioning, so they must be carefully centered on the bottom of the tank. And, when tanks are refilled, I double-check sensor location before hefting the full tanks back into the tank enclosure. The sensors coordinate seamlessly with the Mopeka app, so I do not need the monitor. The wireless range is good--about 75 feet, so I have had no issues with checking tank levels using the app inside the tow vehicle or the Ollie. https://technorv.com/products/mopeka-sensor-2-pack?variant=43661556875484&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8fDYiPLW_gIV5CutBh3DXAlWEAQYBSABEgKq3PD_BwE I am pleased so far with the performance of the system. Much better than having to go outside and remove the "doghouse" to check tank levels!

The Truma Aventa filters are washable plastic grids. I have removed them, but have not needed to use the air conditioner enough yet to need to clean them. They are reusable.

I find removing the propane tank cover to be cumbersome, and hard on my aged back. I can do it, but don't like to do it very often. Removing the porthole cover is easy, and enables me to reach in and turn the propane tank valves on and off.

The nubs on ours broke off on the way home from Tennessee to Idaho. I opened a service ticket with Oliver, but was advised that the manufacturer does not warrant them. I could not find an exact replacement for the one Oliver installed in the propane tank cover. So, I ordered this screw-in 6" porthole assembly from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZZWYNVL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Because the one Oliver uses has nubs that fit into the outside ring, to install the screw-in kind, I had to remove the original ring from the porthole cover and replace it with the ring that comes with the screw-in replacement. Not very hard, just remove 6 screws, pull the ring out, and use the same screws to install the ring that comes with the replacement. You should only have to do this once. The screw-in replacement is much more secure than the one Oliver uses, and has no nubs to break off.

Spot on. In my "real world" experience, a generator recharges our 390 Ah batteries much faster than the solar panels, even when parked in direct sunlight at mid-day.

It looks in this photo like the top of the flex housing is threaded. Have you tried twisting it into a vertical position, then screwing it back in to the flange above it? If this method works, it would be easier than drilling out and replacing the pop rivets, after securing the flex housing to the flange in some way.

Oliver must have started doing that labeling with the 2023 model year. Our late 2022 doesn't have the labeling. But, now that I've seen yours, I think I'll grab our label maker and add some of my own. Thanks for posting!

Fridge or freezer? I periodically use Aquaseal (which is urethane) to attach drysuit gaskets. I store it in our freezer between uses, which keeps it usable for years.

Another vote for X-chocks here. We now install both X-chocks between the two wheels on each side, then rubber chocks purchased from Harbor Freight, then the red chocks that come with the Rophor trailer levelers (see link below) on the downhill side of each of the four wheels, before disconnecting the tow vehicle. Don't ask why that has become a key priority when unhitching the tow vehicle.... https://www.amazon.com/Rophor-Levelers-Leveling-Anti-Slip-Carrying/dp/B096FCYKS3/ref=asc_df_B096FCYKS3/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=533588307500&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5425665857993129828&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-1419632579497&psc=1

My 2022 Elite II is the same as your 2021. I am following this thread with interest, because I am having issues with my inverter as well, and may end up replacing it. Yep, drilling through that nice gelcoat into the aisle, and leaving four less-than-attractive bolt heads visible on the aisle side is just what is being proposed. I expect Oliver doesn't do this during production because it would significantly degrade the appearance. I hope I don't have to do that to our Ollie. But, we leave the bed made up most of the time, so the bolt heads would rarely be visible.

Good choice. Truma will not allow the installation of a Micro -Air Easy start in its air conditioners, and specifies 3kw to run them.

We have two Champion 2200 watt dual fuel inverter/generators, with the Paralink kit. Together, operating from one propane tank with a splitter, they provide enough power to run our Truma Aventa air conditioner, or recharge our Lithionics batteries in a few hours. Why two? Weight. I am an old guy with bilateral torn rotator cuffs and a bad back. I can lift one 2200 watt unit in and out of my pickup bed without risking further injury. The 4500 watt unit, at 97 lbs., weighs too much for me.

According to a quick Google search, the Ram Promaster 3500 cargo van has 4330 lbs. of payload capacity, or more. If I am not mistaken, the 3500 level Dodge trucks and vans are in the "1 ton" category. I would say "no" to a 1500, but a 3500? We tow our LEII with a Tundra, which has 1465 lb. payload capacity. Granted, the Tundra requires a weight distribution hitch, and we are on the payload margin with 550-600 lbs. tongue weight, two of us plus gear, but with 4330 lbs. of payload capacity, and 6410 lbs. towing capacity, I would think the Ram 3500 cargo van would be in the "o.k." range. What am I missing?

Thanks for your informative post. And please forgive what may be a dumb question, but here goes: "Why did you disable the black battery charging wire in your tow vehicle, instead of running wire from the new Lithionics batteries in the Oliver to the DC/DC charger, and then to that black wire in the 7-pin?" Intuitively, it seems to me that the purpose of installing a DC/DC charger in the trailer is to safely transmit the juice generated by the tow vehicle alternator to the trailer LiFePO4 battery bank. What am I missing?

We just returned from a week on the Oregon Coast. During our return trip to Idaho, we encountered several miles of freshly sanded snow/slush as we drove across Tombstone Pass. It coated the back end of our Ollie with fine grit. We also found that sand-laden water had worked its way through the rear window and left a trail of grit from the bottom of the window downward across the belly band. When I asked Oliver Service how to reseal the rear window to prevent this from happening again, Jason Essary advised me to check if the weep holes were clogged. Sure enough, the weep holes had gotten packed with fine road sand, which apparently allowed the sand/water mix to get inside. Cleaning the weep holes out with a jet of water was the solution, not re-sealing the window. Lesson learned: If you find a leak around a window, the first thing to check is the weep holes!

Good advice. But, whether the tires need to be replaced will depend on how much UV exposure they have had. If the trailer was stored mostly indoors over the 7-year life, and the trailer doesn't have many miles on it, the tires could still be in good shape. At a minimum, carefully inspect the tires for cracking. If some is found, bite the bullet and replace them all.

This is an update based on data gathered over the past 6 days using the Varioheat furnace during cool weather on the Oregon Coast. We kept getting an error code on the CP Plus wall control unit advising that either the supply ducts or the return air vents were obstructed. It would shut down, then re-ignite. We ensured there was nothing under the bed on our standard floor plan Hull #1291, but the error codes persisted. So, I removed the air filter I installed as described in my original post on this thread. VOILA! No more error messages. I have concluded that the Varioheat furnace is calibrated to function without a filter, and that my addition of a filter set off an airflow sensor causing it to shut down. So, my experiment with a homemade add-on filter created an unintended failure. I plan to leave the filter off of my Varioheat. I recommend you do the same.

The only weight distribution hitch that works with the Elite II is the Andersen. I expect your F150 owners manual requires a weight distribution hitch when towing over 5K lbs. If so, you need the Andersen. We use an Andersen with our 2019 Tundra tow vehicle. Once you get used to it, easy-peasy.

The quality of posts on this forum, the quality performance history of Oliver's Service Department and the overall quality of Oliver travel trailers all persuaded my wife and me to pay the premium, and drive all the way to Tennessee, to acquire our Elite II last November. Our only "camping" experience in it so far has been the 2000+ mile "shakedown" drive back to home to Idaho. It remained stored during the longest winter experienced in central Idaho for many years. Yet so far, none of the three things mentioned above (the forum, the Service Department and the overall quality) have disappointed. Today we head out for the Oregon Coast for our first actual trailer camping experience with the Elite II. We expect it will perform well. Following in the footsteps of so many who have provided informative posts on this forum, I will report any issues that arise.

Looking forward to your new thread, including your usual helpful narrative, when you are finished.

Short term, Lithionics' stellar level of customer service will be unchanged. During my 35 years of law practice, I represented many senior execs when their smaller company was acquired by a "big fish." Long term, expect Winnebago management to impose their corporate culture on Lithionics, which usually results in senior management turnover at Lithionics. And, relevant to those of us who own Lithionics batteries, one usual, eventual, casualty of acquisition is reduction of customer service staff to cut costs and improve the bottom line for the parent company. Do not be surprised if, in a year or two, when you call Lithionics instead of a real person answering the phone, you get one of those hold messages stating: " We are experiencing an extremely high call volume. Thank you for your patience."

As a "belt and suspenders" guy, I bought the Power Watchdog, and use it in addition to the built-in surge suppressor. In hindsight, I wish I'd known of the Progressive tester/surge suppressor duo referenced by Galway Girl above. Would have saved me over $100!

I turn on all the interior lights, along with the inverter, and run a space heater plugged in to a 110V receptacle. You know when you have reached Reserve Voltage Cutoff when the space heater and the lights go off. This means the BMS in the batteries has done its job by turning off the batteries before they get fully depleted. Once the lights go off, it is time to unplug the space heater, ensure that the inverter is off, turn off the master light switch, and reconnect shore power to recharge the batteries. You can then leave shore power connected for another 6 months, or until you put the trailer back into regular use. Hope this helps.