Rivernerd

Before even considering a larger aftermarket tranny cooler, I would reconfigure the factory gauges (as instructed by Tom and Doreen, and ridenfly above). If that doesn't work, you can get a scan gauge to provide transmission temp data under load. Veepeak sells an inexpensive one on Amazon for Android phones that plugs into your OBDII port, and reports tons of engine and transmission data to your phone via the OBD Fusion app: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011NSX27A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If you have an iphone, Veepeak also sells a somewhat more expensive version. I installed one in my 2019 Tundra, which reported transmission pan temps as high as 265 F recently, pulling up a hill on a hot day. Even with synthetic ATF, that is higher than my comfort level. I'll bet that even when towing your Elite II up a hill, you won't see temps above 230 F with your factory trans cooler. Which ever solution you choose, please report your results on this thread!

You should have a factory external transmission cooler installed in your 2022 Tundra, as part of the tow package. It's the 2019-2021 model years (like mine) that don't have it. It is no surprise to me that you have had no transmission temp issues, given that you should have the external cooler already installed. My 2008 Tundra had a transmission temp gauge in the dash, along with the engine temp gauge, oil pressure gauge, etc. Does your 2022 have that gauge?

I finally had a chance to monitor transmission temps when towing our Elite II up some hills with our 2019 Tundra 5.7L on a hot (95 F+) August day. Pan and torque converter temps hovered around 230-235 F most of the time, but shot up to 265 after one long, steep pull. Ouch! That said, the "High Transmission Fluid Temp" warning did not appear on the info screen. For what it's worth, I am advised it does not appear until 300 F is reached. Given Toyota's position that their 2019-2021 transmissions (and Toyota trans fluid) can handle temps up to the point where the warning appears, I am holding off installation of the expensive aftermarket transmission cooler. Have any more of you Elite II owners with Tundra tow vehicles had the dreaded "High Transmission Temp" warning appear on your truck?

Open a service ticket. Oliver Service is very helpful with these kinds of issues.

This is an exemplary, and prompt, response from Oliver Service. Such responsiveness is one reason we chose an Oliver.

Our "real world" test was a success. After resetting the LBCO to 11.5V, as authorized by Jason Essary, we had no inverter shutdowns when boondocking (without shore power, of course) over the weekend. We used the Truma AC, a small 120V vacuum cleaner, a hairdryer and the microwave (one at a time, of course), at various SOC levels, with no inverter shutdowns. I learned from Jason Essary that the origin of the problem may be traceable to a new bus bar that Oliver began installing in late 2022, and then 2023 models, with the Truma AC. Apparently, the new bus bar reduces the DC voltage sensed by the inverter by enough to trigger a Low Battery Voltage Cutoff (LBCO) if the default setting of 12.0V is not lowered. In our case, resetting the LBCO to 11.5V eliminated the annoying inverter shutdowns. Jason advised that Lilthionics has approved the adjustment to an 11.5V LBCO for those with the new bus bar. I chalk this up to "growing pains" incorporating the new Truma components into the Oliver electrical system. To his credit, Jason Essary kept conducting tests, and working the problem, until he found the solution. So, contrary to the suggestion in the initial post in this thread, the solution to inverter LBCO shutdowns is NOT a hard reboot, but simply resetting the LBCO to 11.5V. I cannot explain why both the first and second hard reboot produced short-term results. Maybe one of you electric engineers can tackle that question. But for now, the LBCO reset appears to be working. Hope this helps anyone else with a late 2022 or 2023 model that is experiencing LBCO inverter shutdowns.

This is an update to the continuing saga of shutdown issues with our Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 Watt inverter. In short, several days after the first hard reboot, we again began to get inverter shutdowns under heavy load. A second hard reboot also produced good short-term results, but did not "stick" long term. Earlier this week, Jason Essary authorized me to drop the Low Battery Cutoff (LBCO) level from the default 12.0V advised by Lithionics to 11.5V. I then ran another 4-minute test using 12V battery power through the inverter to run the microwave at 100% (with a pitcher or water inside to protect the microwave), at various SOC levels from 97% down to 22%. Although the Xantrex remote continued to report DC voltages as low as 11.8V during this test, the Seelevel "Batt" gauge reported DC voltages no lower than 12.2V. And most important, my trusty multimeter reported actual battery voltages (at the battery bank) no lower than 12.7V, with the microwave on full power at 22% SOC! So, under 11500+watt load, there was a 0.4V variance between the DC voltage perceived by the inverter and that perceived by the Seelevel monitor, while there was a 0.9V variance between the voltage perceived by the inverter and actual DC battery voltage verified with a multimeter. To me, this confirms that those expensive Lithionics batteries are not at risk under these conditions, since actual DC voltage did not drop below 12.7V. It appears to me that setting the LBCO at 11.5V compensates for the fact that, when under heavy load, our inverter misperceives the actual battery voltage by as much as 0.9V (12.7V actual -11.8V perceived=0.9V). It still concerns me that our Xantrex inverter misperceives DC voltage when under heavy load, but this new "workaround", i.e., setting the LBCO artificially low, enabled me to run heavy wattage loads on inverted power even at lower SOC levels, as the system was designed to do. With the LBCO set at 11.5V, even though the Xantrex inverter perceived DC voltage of 11.8V, there, of course, were no inverter shutdowns or LBCO "[01]" warnings. With that setting, it appears we can use high-wattage appliances on inverted power at least down to 22% State of Charge (SOC). This is encouraging. My wife and I are boondocking this weekend. We plan to use high-wattage appliances, including a hair dryer and the Truma AC, as needed. I will update this thread after that "real world" test .

The water pump power supply does not go through the inverter. The water pump is 12V. The inverter output is 120V. There should be a fuse in the 12V fuse panel that supplies 12V power to the water pump. I would start my water pump troubleshooting there. With regard to the female hose connection, you will need a 1/2" Allen wrench. I carry one in our Elite II just for that purpose. 1/2" is not a size commonly included with Allen wrench sets, so you may need to order it. Amazon link below. https://www.amazon.com/Eklind-14232-Long-Hex-L-Key/dp/B000GARYA8/ref=sr_1_5?hvadid=409948196806&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9029558&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2706863334268031158&hvtargid=kwd-48266044980&hydadcr=1609_11255806&keywords=1%2F2+allen+key&qid=1691070091&sr=8-5 Good luck!

We have been using our Rockstar mud flaps for 9 months now. We like them. Rockstar sells two versions: (1) adjustable and (2) non-adjustable. The adjustable version enables you to adjust for less road clearance. Note in the photo the low road clearance.

I would pull out all of the drawers and look for water damage to the wood framing under the sink with a headlamp. Even with the plumbing leak repaired, there may be residual water damage that has allowed mold or mildew to grow. Also, remove the plywood panel under the sink, on the floor of the cabinet, that enables access to the receptacle that powers the fridge. You may find the source of the odor there. Also, ensure that your gray and black water tanks are empty. Even standing gray water can stink, especially during the summer months.

I live in the Idaho mountains, and I tow our Elite II with a 2019 Tundra with the 5.7L engine and tow package. I agree that it is "sufficient," with an Andersen weight distribution hitch. But, I definitely know that I am pulling a heavy trailer, which has quite a different feel that my lighter raft trailer, even when the raft trailer is heavily loaded. So, when I need to replace the Tundra, even though I am a Toyota fan, I plan to carefully evaluate the marginal cost of a Tundra vs. 2500-level Chevy or Dodge, or a Ford F250. Based on posts on this forum from owners of 3/4-ton and 1-ton pickups, I expect the towing experience with an Elite II behind such a truck to be less stressful.

Our Truma AC was one of the first installed by Oliver last fall. At that time, Oliver was not yet sealing the screw wells. After we twice had water leakage through those screw wells, we were instructed by Truma and Oliver to seal the wells with silicone caulk. Before I did so, however, I removed the cover to see if I could examine the sealing where the unit penetrates the roof of the trailer. The cover lifted off easily once those 8 screws were withdrawn. It was also easy to get the cover back in place, and to reinstall the screws. In your shoes, I would remove the cover, carefully inspect the condenser fins, then reinstall the cover.

My Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 watt inverter will charge my 390 Ah of Lithionics batteries from a 15A/120V receptacle, so long as no appliances are running at the same time.

I am a low-key Civil War buff. If I had a day or two available in Tennessee, I'd make the drive to the Chicamauga and Chatanooga National Military Park.

https://www.pellandent.com/RV-Window-Seal Match the profile of your window seal to a profile on the Pelland Enterprises web page, link above.

No personal experience, but yours is not the first post on this forum recounting this type of run-around from Truma. That is why I own, and am not afraid to use, a combustible gas detector. If I encounter issues with the Truma tankless water heater in our Elite II that I can't diagnose or repair myself, my plan is to simply replace it with a Fogatti/Rec Pro, available from Amazon.

You don't have a DC master switch. You have on/off buttons on each of your three Lithionics 130Ah batteries. That said, if you need to do a "hard reboot," just turning off the batteries did not work for me. Only physically removing the battery cables from the inverter resulting (twice) in a hard reboot.

Oliver Service is right. The tow vehicle for my 2022 Elite II is a 2019 Tundra, 5.7L V8 with tow package. The top of my Andersen hitch ball sits precisely 23-1/2" from the ground, on a level concrete surface, without the trailer attached. Of course, when the trailer is attached the truck squats a bit, which then results in a level towing position. I am quite particular about ensuring that the trailers I tow sit level when towed. Placing the top of the Andersen hitch ball at 23-1/2" off a level floor, with a Tundra, will result in a level towing position for an Elite II, if both the truck and trailer are properly loaded. See photo below.

"Any other suggestions for keeping the little critters out. Are others using screens or ?. " It is recommended to spray peppermint oil in areas where you want to deter mud dauber nest building: "Repel Them With Peppermint Oil With only a few drops of peppermint oil in warm water, you can stop mud daubers from making their nests around your home. Pour the mixture into a sizeable spray bottle, and spray it on spots where you don't want the insects to visit. Peppermint odor is very active in keeping mud daubers away. However, you may need to apply this mixture frequently. This is because you could have an infestation as soon as the odor wears off." From: https://www.imperialpestprevent.com/post/rid-your-home-of-mud-daubers

They are called combustible gas detectors. The best ones have both visual and audible alerts. I like this one, available from Amazon for $32, if you can get it delivered where you are: https://www.amazon.com/Natural-Detector-Portable-Combustible-Explosive/dp/B07FSVCSSL/ref=asc_df_B07FSVCSSL/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343320284310&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1399517356399337030&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-656039150139&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=68608912305&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=343320284310&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1399517356399337030&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-656039150139 Combustible gas detectors can enable you to find leaks in places you can' reach with a soap+H2O solution. The closer you get to the leak, the louder the alarm (if properly calibrated), and the greater the number of LEDs lit on the visual display. Yes. The propane line that feeds the water heater runs from the forward propane tanks to the aft location of the water heater. The leak could be at the water heater, but you might smell it along the path of the propane line. Also, the water heater is easier to access (from the outside) than the interior area under the stove. I would try a soap and water solution now to try and rule that out, even before you get a combustible gas detector. It could be as simple as a loose flare fitting at the Truma water heater. I would also daub a 50/50 dish soap+H2O solution along the path of the copper propane line as it runs underneath the trailer to the water heater, and to the rear quick connect fitting, with the line pressurized (by having the propane tank valves open). You may find a leak along that line. Good luck, and please report what you find!

Yes. I have thoroughly checked all DC and AC connections, and they are secure.

My LBCO is set at 12.0V, per Oliver's recommendation. And yet I still get a 1.0 to 1.1 differential between actual and Xantrex reported battery voltage, and inverter shutdown when under a 1500 watt+ load, except right after a hard reboot. After a hard reboot, the reported voltage difference is in the .03 to .06V range.

Following my first hard reboot in May, our Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 Watt inverter once again shut down when asked to handle loads over 1400 watts at less that 100% State of Charge. So I tried just turning off all three batteries, as suggested by Geronimo John. Although I left the batteries off for a couple of days before turning them back on, the inverter still shut down when asked to handle loads over 1400 watts. So, I did a second hard reboot by physically disconnecting both the positive and negative battery cables from the inverter, and waiting 3 days. For reasons I do not understand, physically disconnecting the battery cables enabled the inverter to once again handle loads over 1400 watts, while just turning off the batteries did not. How long the effects of that second hard reboot will last remains to be seen. Tom and Doreen: have you done a hard reboot on your Xantrex inverter? If so, what were the results?

That is why I ultimately invested in a second Champion Dual Fuel 2200 watt generator and a splitter so I could run both from one 5-gallon propane tank. The lower output on propane requires the second inverter/generator to run our Truma AC (which has no easy start installed).

To avoid precisely the problems you are encountering, I carry a spare 5-gallon propane tank in the bed of my pickup tow vehicle, and run my two Champion Dual Fuel 2200 watt generators with a splitter from that tank with the OEM regulators. That spare tank also provides backup in case my two primary 5-gallon tanks run low. For me, an easier solution.