Rivernerd

Oliver does not recommend blowing out the water system with compressed air. Instead, Oliver recommends winterizing with RV antifreeze. That is what I would do, following Oliver's winterizing video:

Wow! I would have jumped on that deal too! Congratulations!

Yes, since we returned home from Hohenwald last November. It will not be out in the weather until mid-April, when we will be camping on the Oregon coast. That could be a good test for the roof.

I have no idea. I have not had a reason to examine the installation of our Truma AC unit because we have had no leaks since the Oliver Service team re-sealed the roof penetrations back in November. I note that Oliver installs many things to the fiberglass hull using wood screws, like the portholes. Maybe the 5mmx120mm wood screws go through the outside housing of the Truma AC, screw into holes in the inside housing, and thus draw the two housings together, sandwiching the hulls between them? I plan to figure out how it works if and when a problem arises. But, if your experience educates you about how it all goes together, please share!

rich.dev: FYI, you should not need the longer screws. Your 2023 Elite II scheduled for delivery in mid-May will have the longer screws already installed. The short screws were only used for the first few Truma AC units installed back in 2022.

They are 5mmx120mm T30 flathead wood screws. Photo below shows the bag they come in. Next photo shows the length in inches. A Google search so far has revealed no sources for 5mmx120mm wood screws. But, the approximate size in Imperial screws is #10x5". Those are readily available in the USA. I figure if I have to address a leak around my Truma AC unit, I will buy some #10x5" screws and carefully try them. I do wish that Truma would not be so compulsive about providing repair parts only to authorized service centers. I believe I am more capable, and careful, than most "knuckle draggers" employed by RV service centers these days, particularly in consultation with the excellent Oliver service team...

John: We had a roof leak in the area of the Truma AC unit the night after we took delivery of Hull #1291, the second Elite II to have a Truma AC installed. We found the leak after towing it to David Crockett State Park in Lawrenceburg, TN. We reported the leak to the Oliver Service staff the following Monday, when we returned to Hohenwald for repairs. They resealed all roof penetrations, which seemed to solve the leak issue. We drove through a couple of snow and rain storms on our way home to Idaho, and found no further leakage. It concerns me that there is no reported "foam seal" between the Truma AC unit and the fiberglass roof on your Hull #1290. Notably, I have learned that Truma is now providing longer installation screws for the AC units to Oliver than the ones that were supplied with the early units. I recommend you submit a ticket to Oliver Service requesting that the longer installation screws be sent to your RV service center so your Truma AC unit can be re-installed with those longer screws, and then resealed. I asked Oliver service to send to me a set of the longer installation screws, should I need them if later leaks appear. I was advised that Truma will allow Oliver to send repair parts only to authorized RV service centers. As a workaround, I asked Oliver Service to email to me a photo of the longer screws, with a description of dimensions and thread pitch, so I can source similar screws elsewhere (like Tacoma Screw). I like to be prepared. I look forward to your report on how the leak issue with Hull #1290 gets resolved, including whether a foam or butyl seal gets installed between the Truma AC unit and the roof!

Good choice of tow vehicles with your 2022 Tundra. It has about 500 lbs. greater payload capacity than our 2019 Tundra, which is still adequate to tow our Hull #1291. We are getting along fine, but that extra 500 lbs. of payload will be nice to have.

The biggest concern that keeps me from towing our Elite II during the winter is road safety. I have towed my much lighter raft trailer on snowy roads a couple of times, with sometimes scary results. No accidents, but some close calls. So, I gave up towing it until the roads are no longer snow-covered or icy in the spring. Have any of you more veteran Oliver owners experienced loss of traction, fishtailing or loss of control on snow-covered roads? Any issues climbing hills on snow-covered roads while towing an Elite II?

Even with Nev-R-Lube bearing cartridges installed (which we also have on our Hull #1291), it is still a good practice to check hub temperature at gas stops. Nev-R-Lube cartridges do sometimes fail. I use a Klein infrared gun. If one hub is consistently hotter than others, I know I have a problem that must be checked out sooner rather than later.

Definitely submit a service ticket. Your photo shows sloppy installation, of which the Oliver Service Department should be advised. That said, there should be a round access port cover, on the forward end of the street side overhead cabinet just aft of that Zamp charge controller, which will allow you to access the back of that mounting area. With such access, you should be able to swap the left-side screw visible in your photo for a bolt with nut.

John Dehne: Thanks for the "heads up," with photo, demonstrating the potential for physical contact between the propane line and the black hot gas line on the Norcold absorption fridge. I checked the Norcold fridge on our Hull #1291. Fortunately, ours was installed with more horizontal space between the copper propane line and the black hot gas line. There is enough clearance that, even when wiggled, the two lines cannot contact each other. I recommend that each owner of a Norcold absorption fridge double-check this clearance issue, and address any conflict like you did, by inserting some kind of pliable insulator between them. Good catch!

These suggestions are not specific to the Legacy Elite, but are relatively easy to implement and sometimes overlooked. 1. Do you have the Truma water heater? Does it include the antifreeze kit? If so, be sure to install the antifreeze filter before leaving home, and switch the Truma control over to antifreeze mode during daytime driving. When parked, keep the Truma water heater on Comfort mode, which will burn more propane, but will provide an additional margin of safety from freezing. 2. Also, remove the shower head from the outside wash station, pull the shower hose inside the trailer, re-install the shower head inside the hull, and place the head/hose assembly inboard from the hull. As this is an area that gets little heat from the furnace, I would also place a couple of layers of Reflectix-type insulation along the inside of the hull where that outside wash station is installed.

Below is a link to a $34 unit that will check post wiring and provide some surge protection. When added to the high-quality internal surge protector already installed in the Oliver, this should be adequate: https://www.amazon.com/Protector-EyGde-Indicator-Protection-Extension/dp/B09HR15F2Y/ref=asc_df_B09HR15F2Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=563658249300&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7940290766815897406&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-1642769687496&th=1

The second 30A input on the curb side of the propane tank housing is for convenience only. The (sometimes problematic) transfer switch is required when you have two 30A inputs. That is why we don't have the second 30A input on Hull #1291.

Yep. That is why I use Google with a search like: "Oliver converter inverter" to find threads on the Oliver forum relating to the inverter or converter.

We have a similar headlight height adjustment wheel on our 2019 Tundra SR5. Until I remembered it came on the truck, I wondered why the headlights were set so low! Duhhh!

Roger: Where did you obtain the dial dimmer switches for the Porch Lights and Outside Courtesy lights?

UNLESS you have the Truma Aventa air conditioner. Since Truma will not allow installation of a Micro Air Easy Start in its units, you must have 3kw to start and run the Truma Aventa AC unit with an inverter/generator. That is why we carry two 2kw dual fuel Champion inverter generators with a Paralink kit. When running on propane, the two units generate about 3060 watts combined, which is barely enough to run the Truma Aventa AC. So, with the Truma Aventa AC, the EU3200 would not be "overkill;" it would be necessary to run the air conditioner.

Will it be garaged? Will the truck with the 8' box+Crew or Mega Cab easily fit into your garage? FWIW, that extra 20" of wheelbase can also make a difference at many campsites. If usually camping with 2 adults, I would prefer the CrewCab with 6'4" box. I would sacrifice the 50-gallon fuel tank for the greater parkability, and probably slightly better gas mileage.

In principle, this fact concerned me. Like many others accustomed to having lead/acid batteries recharged by the tow vehicle alternator, I was concerned that the three 130Ah Lithionics G31 batteries included with our 2022 Elite II would get discharged during long driving days (when we run the absorption fridge on DC power), even though we have 380 watts of solar on the roof. So, I determined to follow John Davies' excellent posts referenced above and install a Redarc DC to DC charger IF our lithium battery state of charge seems low after long driving days. In actual practice, I am not yet concerned enough to invest the time and $$$$ in a DC to DC charger. We drove our Hull #1291 from Hohenwald back to central Idaho in the middle of last November. Some days were overcast. The daytime temps were consistently above freezing, and all night time temps were below freezing. We ran our absorption fridge on DC power while on the road, but switched to propane at night. Our battery state of charge never got below 85%, even on cloudy days, and quickly recovered to 100% once reconnected to shore power at a campsite. But, the DC power draw from the fridge during those cold temps, with the trailer cabin unheated during the day, was doubtless minimal. I plan to gather more data as we travel with Hull #1291 this spring and summer. An uncooled cabin may get pretty warm when on the road on hot summer days, requiring much greater DC power draw to keep the fridge at set temps. That should better inform the DC to DC charger decision.

I have heard of dust fouling the contacts on those switches as well. If it were my Elite II, I would pull the switch cover off to evaluate how clean those contacts are. If you do this, please report what you find, so others (like me) who have that same switch panel can learn from your experience.

You didn't mention shore power. I presume shore power is not connected, right? The lights are 12V. The inverter inputs 12V and outputs 120V. The inverter cannot be powering your lights. The lights are getting 12V power from somewhere. Are your lithium batteries the Lithionics brands now being installed by Oliver? If so, are all of the blue on/off buttons dark? More details of your 12V electrical system would help diagnosis. That includes brand of lithium batteries (which I presume are LiFEPO4), number of batteries and total amp hours. A photo showing their current condition would be really helpful. If you have three 130Ah Lithionics batteries, is there a red switch mounted on top of them?

Our 2019 Tundra with 5.7L V8 and towing package is adequate for towing our Elite II. But IMHO, it is not optimal, like a 3/4 or 1-ton gasser truck could be. We will not find out until prices for heavy-duty trucks (hopefully) settle back down in a couple of years from today's obscenely-high price levels. We get between 8 and 9 MPG when towing the Elite II with regular gas. Not optimal, but for now, a sensible trade-off.

46" to aft end of backsplash. 46 3/4" to aft end of countertop.