Rivernerd

Understood. But, Lithionics advises in its Rev. 7 Storage Procedure that their batteries with internal heaters will be fine (with no State-of-Charge concerns) if left connected to shore power during winter storage. The Rev. 7 Storage Procedure document states: "If your battery has the Lithionics Internal Heater, and you are subject to winter conditions, keep the battery ON, solar ON and plugged into shore power...This will keep the heater running and protect your battery. Doing this will eliminate the procedures below." The "procedures below" include the discharge/recharge protocol, which is required when the batteries with internal heaters are removed for storage, but not when left connected to shore power.

Will your Ollie be connected to shore power? The internal battery heaters consume power, so the batteries need a means of recharge to keep the heater working. I recommend you ask Battleborn if, given your storage conditions, the "system" will "take care of itself."

That is my impression as well, but it may not be that simple. Reuben from Lithionics asked if the external battery heater runs through the inverter. If it runs through the inverter, you would have to leave the inverter on all winter. That could prematurely wear it out, and it's expensive to replace. The right battery charger would be much cheaper in the long run. When I told him I don't know how the the external battery heater is wired, he suggested asking Oliver. I did so by submitting a service ticket. An Oliver service tech left a voice message for me late yesterday, which I plan to return on Monday. I will report what I learn.

I will be keenly interested in the results of your test. My wife and I take delivery of our Elite II with the Lithium Pro Package on November 10. We plan to winterize and store it in an outbuilding when we get back to Idaho in late November. Like you, we have shore power available in the storage shed. I would love to be able to do what the Lithionics Rev. 7 Storage Procedure instructs for their batteries with internal heaters: leave the trailer connected to shore power and walk away for the winter. I do not yet know if that is recommended for Lithionics batteries with external battery heaters. If so, why does Lithionics limit their Rev. 7 winterizing instructions to batteries with internal heaters? For what it's worth, this is what Oliver says about the external battery heater in the Knowledge Base under the topic Electrical Systems: "The heating pad is powered by the on board battery bank in the camper. It is controlled by the lighted switch and an ambient temperature sensor which measures the internal temperature of the battery box, not the batteries. When the switch is turned on and the internal ambient temperature falls to 35 degrees the heating pad will come on and heat up to 135 degrees until the ambient temperature reaches 45 degrees and then the pad will shut off. Once the switch is turned on the light should come on to let you know the system is on. The power passes through the switch and into the temperature sensor that then controls when the heating pad turns on and off." I infer from this language that the external battery heater is 12V, since it is powered by the "on board battery bank." It is my understanding (and someone please correct me if I am wrong), that the Xantrex inverter/charger transforms incoming 120V shore power (or solar power) to the proper voltage to charge the batteries, depending on what the battery "needs" at the time--something in the 13-14+V range. It seems intuitive to me that in cold weather, the shore power connection should keep the batteries charged if they are left on, so the batteries, in turn, can power the external battery heater, which should keep the Lithionics G31 batteries above freezing, enabling them to receive a charge. Logically, that should be how the Lithionics 315 Ah batteries with internal heaters are kept safe, per the Lithionics Rev.7 Storage Procedure. But, I know just enough about electrical systems, particularly the combined 120V/12V systems in an RV, to be dangerous. So, I hope one or more of the electrically-savvy Oliver owners out there will weigh in, and correct what I have said here if I am wrong. I offer one other significant datum. I emailed Lithionics yesterday asking if the external battery heater Oliver installs with the Lithium Pro Package will enable me to safely leave the three G31 batteries in the Elite II battery box connected to shore power over the winter. Reuben, the helpful gentleman from Lithionics who called me in response to my email message, was not sure. But he did advise that one of the KF series chargers Lithionics sells would keep the G31 batteries safe over the winter, in conjunction with the external battery heater installed by Oliver. He recommended the KF12V20DL, which is a 20A, 12V Lithium battery charger. I would really like to avoid removing the batteries from the trailer every year, storing them in a temperature-controlled building and running periodic charge/discharge cycles while the trailer is in winter storage. If just connecting the trailer to shore power is not recommended, then I may buy a KF series charger from Lithionics so I can avoid having to follow the protocol detailed in the Lithionics Rev. 7 Storage Procedure.

Since you apparently have an external heating pad, I infer that you have the Lithium Pro Package in your Elite II with three Lithionics 130Ah G31 batteries. If you had the Platinum package (with internal battery heaters), you could leave the batteries on if connected to shore power. See the Lithionics Storage Procedure document attached below: But, according to that Storage Procedure, the only "safe harbor" for Lithionics batteries without the internal heater is to remove the batteries from the trailer so you can place them in a temperature-controlled environment, and follow the protocols for charge/discharge cycles, per the Storage Procedure. Edit added on November 25, 2022: But, Oliver is installing external battery heaters with the Lithium Pro package; it was included with ours. And, Mike Sharpe from Oliver service has advised that "per Lithionics", where the external battery heater is installed, and turned on, you can leave the batteries in the trailer, connected to shore power, just like the batteries with internal heaters covered by the Rev. 7 storage procedure attached below. Lithionics Storage Procedure Rev.7.pdf

I have a similar concern given our delivery date of November 10. We go by Twin Falls on the return trip to Garden Valley, ID. FWIW, our plan is to take a southern route to Arizona. We will then wait for a weather window, if necessary, to make a run up through Utah on I-15 and southern Idaho on I-84. We figure there are worse things than camping in southern Arizona in November!

For what it's worth, I plan to take an electrical multitester with which to check power at the pole, and have purchased an external surge protector that detects miswiring, low voltage, etc. There are differing views among Oliver owners regarding external surge protectors. See, for example, this thread:

The chocks that come with my Rophor Camper Levelers. https://www.amazon.com/Rophor-Leveler-Version-Leveling-Non-Slip/dp/B09NJSXRRB/ref=asc_df_B09NJSXRRB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=563823049430&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7131554787834866815&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-1637492471943&psc=1 I figure they can do double duty: (1) part of the trailer leveling system when camped and (2) chocking the wheels on the side opposite from a flat when changing a tire. I also plan to follow wise counsel received on this Forum and leave the trailer hitched to the tow vehicle, set in Park with parking brake engaged, for added stability.

Since we have a long, multi-day trip home to Idaho after we take delivery on November 10, I purchased (at John Davies' suggestion) a Safe Jack 6-ton RV Jack. It includes extenders that should enable it to reach the jacking points on the 2022 Elite II, from the ground. The kit includes a u-shaped frame adapter that I hope will fit the Elite II frame and enable a more secure connection with the trailer. https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/safe-jack-6-ton-rv-jack-kit-37m-rv6/_/R-SAJK-37M-RV6?ppcfon=1&gp=1&ecmp=s:google_15843829820___&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SC Shopping - Tires & Wheels - Performance Max&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhY-aBhCUARIsALNIC06UbEzgITJgaGQn_rPib0QBhxX7NiH5oVwxeWUM_qjnkqbeLh5T-FgaAsOiEALw_wcB Not cheap, but worth the peace of mind to me. I also have a set of the Camco Large Stabilizing Jack Pads, to provide a solid base for the Safe Jack, if needed. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Large-44541-Stabilizing-Jack/dp/B005BNZ9UM/ref=asc_df_B005BNZ9UM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198056825273&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9575626206363820960&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-438289870527&psc=1 If I have to change a tire, I plan chock the wheels on the side opposite the flat, jack up the side with the flat using the Safe Jack on a Stabilizing Jack Pad, then lower the stabilizers to provide additional support and stability.

I concur with the recommendation to remove the batteries, ASAP. AGM batteries used lead/acid chemistry. The acid is sulfuric acid. Leaving compromised batteries in the battery box risks a sulfuric acid leak, which could significantly damage, if not destroy, the battery box. Get 'em out of there.

Jason Essary addresses this in his 2021 Oliver Elite II Delivery Walkthrough video. He states that code requires fusing within a certain distance from the power source, so Oliver installs fuses for all three jacks near the batteries. Jason also notes that the front (tongue) jack comes from the manufacturer with the fuse already installed on it, and Oliver chooses to leave it there, resulting in redundant fusing for that jack. See the video below at 1:36. So, Oliver owners get to check BOTH fuses should the tongue jack fail. Or, follow John Davies' suggestion and install an Anderson Power Pole in place of the fuse on the front jack.

I now have a Veepeak scan tool that plugs into the OBD2 port on my 2019 Tundra. $14 from Amazon. It communicates with my Android smartphone via Bluetooth, through an app downloaded for $5. So, the total cost was under $20. I plan to monitor transmission pan temps when towing (after we pick up our Elite II on November, and in warmer temps next year) to inform our decision whether to install an aftermarket transmission cooler. I have inferred from posts on the Tundra forums that Toyota is claiming that transmission temps up to 250 degrees Fahrenheit when towing are "acceptable." Yet, Toyota is now installing transmission coolers on 2022 Tundras, after leaving them off the 2019-2021 model years. Hmmm.......

Smart idea. Glad it worked. And, smarter than my paper clip suggestion. Should I encounter a burner issue, I will try your portable vacuum method.

When no fuel is reaching a propane burner, but other propane appliances are receiving fuel, the most likely cause is blockage in the line supplying that burner, or the burner orifice. Have you tried CAREFULLY and gently sticking something small, metal and flexible (like an unfolded steel paper clip) into the burner orifice to see it maybe there a small piece of debris stuck in it?

It depends on whether your Sequoia has the big engine and the tow package. Lots of Elite II owners tow with Tundras and Sequoias. We plan to tow our Elite II with a 2019 Tundra, with the 5.7LV8 and the tow package. If your Sequoia is comparably equipped, you should be o.k. But, you will need an Andersen weight distribution hitch, the only one that works well with Olivers. The most significant limiting factor will likely be your payload capacity, which should be listed on a sticker inside the driver's door. A loaded Elite II will likely have a tongue weight of between 550 and 600 lbs. Tongue weight is added to occupant and cargo weight to determine total payload. Don't exceed the payload capacity listed on your sticker.

Coming from a Little Guy Max, are you looking at the Elite I or the Elite II? As noted above, the Elite II has a basement storage area. As I recall, the Elite I does not. I recommend you view the excellent 2021 model walkthrough videos available on the Oliver website.

"Occupants" sure seems like it must include a driver as well as passengers. I stand corrected. So, the weight of all occupants must be added to cargo weight, and tongue weight, when calculating whether payload capacity has been exceeded. Good to know.

So, when calculating payload, the driver's weight, whatever it is, must also be added to passenger and cargo weight to determine a total? Can you provide a citation for this?

Seems consistent to me. A driver is not a passenger.

As noted by Frank C, no, you can't add payload and towing capacity. I like to think of towing and payload capacity the way car manufacturers do. Rated towing capacity presumes there is nothing in the tow vehicle except a 150 lb. driver. This enables car companies to advertise the highest possible numbers. In the real world, few folks tow a trailer with nothing but a 150 lb. driver. Payload capacity makes the same assumption: a 150 lb. driver, nothing else. No passengers, no cargo. And, when towing, the tongue weight (usually about 10% of a properly-loaded trailer) must be included in payload calculations. So for me, the critical limitation is payload, not towing capacity. Given that about 10% of the weight in a properly-loaded trailer is tongue weight, if your goal is to stay within your tow vehicle's limited payload capacity, you are better off putting more of your gear weight in the trailer, so long as you don't exceed the tongue weight capacity of your tow vehicle. That way, only 10% of it "counts" against your payload capacity. For example, if your actual tow vehicle payload capacity is 1200 lbs. and your properly-loaded trailer weighs 4500 lbs. (so tongue weight is 450 lbs.), you have 750 lbs. of remaining safe payload capacity. With your 115-lb. wife, you are down to 635 lbs. If you weigh more than 150 lbs., you must also deduct the difference between your actual, fully-clothed weight and 150 lbs. from your payload number. If you use an Andersen weight distribution hitch (and you should with a Highlander towing a Legacy Elite), subtract another 60 lbs. The residual determines the weight of additional gear you can safely carry in the tow vehicle. I, too, will be surprised if your Highlander actually has 1600 lbs. of payload capacity. I expect it may be closer to 1200 lbs., like my hypothetical above. I second the recommendation above that you post a photo of the sticker on the driver's side of your Highlander. Only with that information can a sensible calculation be done.

Maybe this 2-gallon gas can would fit, along with the Honda EU2200i? https://www.amazon.com/Sanycool-No-Gasoline-Container-Plastic/dp/B08HYNQ4YF/ref=asc_df_B08HYNQ4YF/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459647904235&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16644264739175586450&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-984610809534&psc=1

While I laud Lithionics customer service response, I presume there is no way for a user to recalibrate the BMS, even with the app?

So, to summarize the important data gathered in this thread: (1) You can upgrade to the more expensive, but quieter and more efficient, Truma air conditioner; (2) but, "you won't need" (and you can't install) a Micro Air Easy Start in it, therefore (3) you must also have at least a 2200 watt generator to run the "more efficient" Truma unit when boondocking. Thus, bbrault, you cannot start and run the Truma Aventa Eco with your Yamaha 2000 watt generator that will fit in the front basket of an Elite. But, for significant additional cost, you can run it with a Honda EU3200i, which will also fit in that front basket.

The fact that trailers can actually be damaged by use of a weight distribution hitch with too heavy a tow vehicle is an excellent point. It would be important evidence supporting a defendant in a personal injury suit, driving a 3/4 or 1-ton tow vehicle, arising out of a trailer towing accident. It supports using a WD hitch when it is "required, and not using one when it is only "recommended."

I am a retired lawyer. I concur with John Davies' statement. In contrast to the "recommended" language in your Ram 3500 owner's manual, my 2019 Tundra owner's manual states that for trailers over 5K lbs., weight distributing hitches are "required." From a legal standpoint, the difference between those two words is huge. As an illustration, if I failed to use a weight distributing hitch on my Tundra when towing an Elite II, I would expect that failure to be considered negligence per se. As a result, I would likely be held liable, per se, in an accident where I lost control of the vehicle/trailer. If you choose not to use a weight distributing hitch with your Ram 3500, any plaintiff seeking to prove that your decision to not use a weight distributing hitch was negligent would be looking up a very "steep cliff." Night and day difference in a courtroom. If I had a Ram 3500, I would not use a weight distributing hitch towing an Oliver Elite II.