Rivernerd

I concur. I also recommend that you verify whether the particular Airstream model you are considering has a plywood or a composite subfloor. I understand that Airstream is now installing composite subfloors in some, but not all, new models. Then, if the model you like comes with a plywood subfloor, Google "Airstream subfloor replacement" and watch the multiple Youtube videos that come up in response to that search. The Airstream model we evaluated, before committing to buy an Oliver, came with a plywood subfloor.

Great suggestion! But, how about drilling the small hole, letting it drain, then filling the hole with clear caulk? If the reflector fills with water again, it should be easy to drill out the caulk, drain again and re-caulk.

I would drop the PSI in all 4 tires down to no more than 50 now, using a quality tire pressure gauge, I would do this both before and after you get a TPMS system. The TPMS just helps you monitor PSI while you are on the road.

Thanks for the informative replies. You all make good points. It appears that running the furnace and using down comforters are the best way to stay warm the way we like it. We opted for the two 20-lb. propane tanks, because I have bilateral torn rotator cuffs and expect it will be very difficult to lift 30-lb. tanks (which weigh 55 lbs. when full) into the "doghouse." It is tough enough for me now to lift 20-lb. tanks (which weigh 36 lbs. when full) that high, and I'm not getting any younger! So, we will have 10 gallons of tank capacity available. When running the furnace all night, along with an absorption fridge/freezer, how much propane is burned per day? In those conditions, how often must two 20-lb. propane tanks be refilled?

I searched but found no threads on this topic. We take delivery of an Elite II in November, 2022. We anticipate some cold overnight lows as we make our way back to Idaho in mid-November. Both my wife and I like to sleep warm. We use 110V electric blankets at home when it's cold outside. Our Elite II will have 390 Ah of lithium battery capacity, so we could run two twin-sized 12V electric blankets at night (reported amp draws are between 4.5-5 amps per hour, so using two blankets for 8 hours should consume between 72 and 80 Ah per night). That is less than 25% of the usable battery capacity per night, so we figure that will work. Even with cloudy days, we expect that solar regeneration will likely keep up with that usage. We have also considered 110V electric blankets, but the ones I have found pull about 126 watts each for the twin size, so two using inverted 12V power (at about 10.5 amps per hour, or a total of 21 amps per hour), will consume more than 160 Ah in an 8-hour night. With inverter loss, the total is likely closer to about 200 Ah per night. That's more than 50% of our available battery capacity, and if the weather is cloudy, we may not be able to replenish that power with the solar panels. So, it appears that 12V blankets are the only potentially viable option. But, my research has revealed no 12V electric blankets on the market that don't have auto shutoffs after 45-60 minutes. We don't want to have to wake up every hour to turn the blankets back on! Does anyone use electric blankets in an Oliver? If so, what do you use, and how has it worked for you? If using 12V, how do you get around the auto-shutoff feature? If you don't use electric blankets on cold nights, do you take warm sleeping bags? Or do you run the furnace all night, burning propane, to maintain comfortable temps?

I have mixed feelings about this issue that highlight the difference between micro and macro economic analysis. We take delivery of a 2022 Elite II in November, with a base price of $65K, and a much higher total price with the options we have selected. From a "micro" perspective, we would, personally, prefer to pay less. But we are grateful we are not paying for a 2023 model! The "macro" view is explained by simple supply/demand analysis and adjustment for inflation. The referenced price increases are quite predictable given the surge in RV demand caused by the pandemic, and the inflation surge of the past year+, which has been driven by increased material and labor costs. Given these factors, one could argue that Olivers have been underpriced for the market from 2016 through 2022. Thus, from a "macro" perspective, we are paying less than true "market value" for our 2022 Elite II.

I share your concern. We are scheduled to take delivery of an Elite II in November. After you pick up your trailer, please post the results of your initial inspection here. That may indicate whether the Oliver production folks have improved their quality control since John and Jodi's Elite II was made.

I second John Davies' recommendation to avoid the "work truck." Buying a high-end travel trailer like the Oliver, then towing it with a work truck makes no sense to me. Also, given what you want to haul, I don't view the 3500 as overkill. You will never wish you had a less robust suspension, or less payload capacity.

I looked hard at the GMC Sierra 2500 gas 4x4 with the 6.6L engine as a potential tow vehicle for an Elite II. In your shoes, I would take advantage of the GM employee discount and would not buy any less truck than a Sierra 2500 to tow an Elite II. Given the relatively small upcharge for the Sierra 3500 (at GM cost), and with the stuff you want to take along, I would seriously consider the 3500. With a 1500 you will need a weight distribution hitch to tow an Elite II. With the 2500 or 3500, no WD hitch required.

We have battery-operated water leak alarms under our sinks at home. The batteries last a long time. We plan to place one under the galley sink after we pick our Elite II in November.

Those are Wago lever nuts. They are NEC approved as an alternative to wire nuts for 120V connections. They are easier to use than wire nuts, but are much more expensive. They make it easier to see if you have a solid connection during assembly (because they have a clear plastic window through which you can see if the wire is fully inserted) , unlike wire nuts. When properly installed, I believe they are also more reliable, and less likely to shake loose from vibration (such as when towing) than a wire nut connection, as they have a lever than locks the wire into the connector. I am not an electrician, but have done all of the electrical work on the 4 existing homes we have owned for the past 40 years, along with the new home we moved into in 2020. I have had to troubleshoot dozens of shorts caused by loose wire nut connections over those years. Neither type of connector is foolproof, and as illustrated by this thread, all require attention to detail by the installer to avoid problems. I suspect the wire that shorted was not fully inserted, and visually verified through the clear plastic window in the lever nut, during the build at the factory. Sloppy wire nut connections also cause shorts, but they are harder to detect during installation because wire nuts don't have clear plastic windows. I like Wago lever nuts so much I used them when wiring our entire new home. No issues yet after 2+ years, but I checked all of my connections to ensure full insertion during installation. I prefer Wago lever nuts over wire nuts. I am pleased to see Oliver using them.

As one who takes delivery of an Elite II in November, I am keenly interested in the solution to your electrical issues. I expect Oliver's Service Department is now available by phone (Monday morning at 9:00 a.m. CDT). 1-888-526-3978. Once you find an answer, please post it on this thread.

Are Dometic Penguin II's made in the USA?

Before ordering our Elite II, we tried to shop Airstreams, including the Bambi. We contacted our local Airstream dealer in Boise, Idaho, asking to walk through and check out a Bambi. We were told we could not, as all Airstreams on the lot had been pre-sold and could not be shown. We were advised that if we wanted an Airstream, it would have to be ordered "sight unseen," based on the virtual tours available online. That would be like buying a new truck without even driving it, or even one like it! No thanks. After thoroughly evaluating, inside and out, an Elite II owned by another Idaho resident, we ordered the Oliver.

I became aware of the 2-5/16 ball and Bulldog coupler option by reviewing John Davies' excellent post on his 2-5/16" upgrade on this forum. So, I asked for it, and it is on our 2022 build sheet.

Moisture between the panes of a double-glazed window, whether on an RV or your home, indicates a failure of the seal between the panes. A properly manufactured double-glazed window should not have seal failure. It is definitely a warranty issue. We have purchased two sets of Milgard windows over the past 30 years, one on a home in Bellevue, Washington and the second set on our new home in Garden Valley, Idaho. Why Milgard? Because they offer (and honor) a lifetime seal warranty on double-glazed windows. We had two double-glazed skylights and one double-glazed, single-hung window fail on our Bellevue home. The seals on the two custom skylights failed, allowing moisture intrusion, after 23 years in service. In response to our warranty claim, Milgard manufactured replacement custom skylights, and paid their crew to install them, all without charge to us. So, we bought Milgard sliding glass doors and windows when building our new home in Idaho. Ya gotta love that kind of warranty service. Oliver should warrant window seal failure, but windows are likely covered only by the 1-year "limited component warranty." You may be out of luck with your 2019 Elite II. Compared to Milgard's very real lifetime warranty, one year for the windows Oliver installs in its trailers seems pretty skimpy to me. I would submit a service ticket and see what happens.

I note you have Lithionics batteries. I wonder if the battery box door gets even more wear and tear on the road with heavier lead/acid/AGM batteries. If that happens to our Elite II (once we get it), would stainless steel bolts and nuts with lock washers, sized to match the rivets, then secured with red Loctite, make a more permanent repair? Thoughts?

At dhaig's suggestion, I called sptech's 800 number today and asked to speak to a customer service supervisor. The supervisor I spoke with apologized for her subordinate's initial response and agreed to overnight to me the correct size of grease cap, and to email to me a prepaid shipping label. So, I should receive the correct size grease cap this week, and don't have to take the incorrectly shipped part to a UPS store. I can print the return shipping label they promised to email to me, put it on the box in which the incorrect part was shipped, and leave it for our UPS driver. It still saddens me that I had to call a supervisor in the first place to get the right thing done. But, sptech has now agreed to make it right.

Weight distribution and sway control are not the same thing. The Andersen is a weight distribution hitch that helps somewhat with sway control. I recommend you carefully study your owners manual to verify whether there is a statement somewhere, like this one in my 2019 Tundra 5.7L V8 with tow package owner's manual: "If the gross trailer weight is over 5000 lb. (2268 kg), a weight distributing hitch with sufficient capacity is required." Unless you put almost nothing in your Elite II, it will weigh more than 5000 lbs.

May I suggest that you start a service ticket? We would appreciate Oliver being advised of this oversight, so maybe ours will be fully caulked around the jacks when we pick it up in November.

PLAN WELL AHEAD and consider avoiding this vendor. On June 10, 2022, I ordered the same hubodometer and 4.25" wheel center cap that dhaig ordered from sptech.com for the Elite II we plan to pick up in November. 18 days later, on June 28, 2022, it still had not shipped. So, I emailed sptech.com's customer service. The order was shipped the next day. But, the invoice emailed to me confirming the shipment referenced a 3.19 wheel center cap, not the 4.25" wheel center cap I had ordered, and which is referenced on the email confirming the order. When I again exchanged email messages with an sptech.com customer service rep, I was told that they had shipped the wrong wheel center cap, but that they would not ship to me the 4.25" wheel center cap I had correctly ordered until I return the wrong part they shipped back to them, and they receive it. That process will likely take several more weeks. They did not even provide me with a return shipping label, but instead insisted that I go to a UPS store (which is 50 miles away from my home) and use their UPS account number to arrange the return shipping. I consider this abysmal customer service. When combined with the slow service detailed in dhaig's post quoted above, you will be wise to find another hubodometer vendor.

I have seen forged bank checks. If I were the seller, I would not accept a cashier's check in exchange for my trailer. I would insist on wired funds. And, I would release the trailer to the buyer only after receiving confirmation from my bank that the wired funds were actually in my account. I would determine the amount of the wire transfer fees in advance, then add those fees to the agreed sale price.

Have you tried to twist off the brushed chrome cap that sits on top of and around the cartridge? It may be threaded onto the housing below it. On some faucets, that cap holds the cartridge in place. Try twisting the cap counterclockwise to remove it. You may need a gripper to give your hand traction, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Regent-Multi-Purpose-Gripper-Bottle-Opener/dp/B019R5TSYW/ref=asc_df_B019R5TSYW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193124190188&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1108655480944362344&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-311177149643&psc=1 DF-NMK852 looks like the correct model number for the faucet you have. If you download that owners manual, the brushed chrome cap is depicted on the parts list on Page 5, with the cartridge shown right underneath it. This suggests that the cap must be removed before you can access the cartridge to replace it. Good luck!

As you test drive interim tow vehicles, I recommend you also include a used Tundra with the 5.7L engine and tow package in your search. We plan to tow our Elite II with our 2019 Tundra 5.7L after we pick up it in November. Lots of folks on this forum tow very happily with Tundras, usually with an Andersen hitch. Our 2019 Tundra Double Cab Standard Bed would barely fit in your 228" garage; maybe omit the double cab when test driving? A well-maintained Tundra should holds its value well until you take delivery of your Rivian. My 2 cents.