Rivernerd

So, per Truma's specs, you can't run a Truma Aventa Eco with a 2000/1600 watt generator. Since the Truma Aventa Eco requires only 1296 watts (10.8A at 120V) for regular running, I infer from the data that startup power consumption is higher, maybe as high as 20 or more amps. bbrault, perhaps the Honda EU3200i is the only generator/inverter on the market that will provide sufficient wattage to start and run the Truma Aventa Eco, and still fit in the Legacy Elite front basket?

Every air conditioner with which I am familiar requires quite a bit more power at startup than when just running. Does the Truma Aventa Eco draw the same amount of power all of the time (10.8A on high), i.e., no additional power is required at compressor startup? It seems to me that to reliably answer the Original Poster's question (whether he can run the Truma Aventa Eco with his Yamaha 2000/1600 watt generator), that is a critical fact we still don't know. bbrault, I, for one, am still interested to learn whether Oliver tested the Truma Aventa Eco with only a generator, and if so, how many watts it requires at startup.

Looks like the EU3200i will fit in a Legacy Elite front basket. Impressive, at 59 lbs. and 58 db.

Was the Truma rep specifically asked about running the Truma Aventa Eco with a generator with only a 1600 continuous watt rating (i.e., enough to meet regular electrical demand, as the Truma Aventa Eco draws 10.8A on high, which equates to 1296 watts at 120V)?

The EU3000is is 22" x 17.6". The EU2200i is 20"x 11.4". The EU2000i will apparently fit in the Elite front basket, which is 26.75" x 14.375" x 7.75" (L x W x H). The EU 3000is will not fit.

This appears to be good news, bbrault. But, it is known yet whether a 2200 watt inverter/generator will start the Truma Aventa Eco on its own (since Oliver cannot install the Micro Air Easy Start)?

I am confused. Corvus' recommended stainless steel replacement caps are 4.25" diameter. John Davies' recommended stainless steel replacement caps are 1.98" diameter. And, the description for the 1.98" says "Fits Most 5-Lug Trailer Hubs." The wheels on the Elite II sure look like 6-lug to me. Will either fit the Elite II wheels?

ScubaRX, thanks for tracking down the "nugget" you cite. But, it appears to me that the reference is to a 240V (Australian) Truma Aventa Comfort (15Kbtu), not the 120V (USA) Truma Aventa Eco (13.5Kbtu) Oliver will be installing in 2023 models. Here's the quote from the referenced comment to that 2016 article: "I’m looking to power a TRUMA Aventa Comfort Mk2 AC with a Cromtech Outback CGT2500i generator that, according to the data above, should be sufficient. However I’m concerned the start spike input power of the AC will be to high for the generator. Truma state that the AC requires 20Amps for start-up..." I understand that Truma has just recently re-engineered the Aventa AC models for the US/Canadian 120V market, which includes lower power draw. So, it appears to me we still don't have a reliable answer to the question: "How much generator wattage is required to start up the120V, 13.5Kbtu Truma Aventa Eco air conditioners Oliver will be installing in 2023 Elite models?" bbrault, I still think this is an excellent question for your Oliver sales rep. Please post the answer you receive!

X-chocks between the wheels may help. https://www.amazon.com/X-Chock-Wheel-Stabilizer-Handle-28012/dp/B002XLHUQG/ref=asc_df_B002XLHUQG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312098740701&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9066806933936176184&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-365326661179&psc=1 Also, are your stabilizer jacks fully extended, or are they on jack blocks? The further the stabilizer jacks are extended, the greater the potential for movement as weight is shifted inside the trailer.

Many thanks to John Davies for including instructions on drawer removal, and removal of the access panel behind the drawers. The Oliver video linked below includes instructions on removal of the access panel, and shows where the fridge plugs into the receptacle behind that access panel. Legacy Elite II Drawer Removal & Components Hope this helps.

Yes, remove the drawers under the galley sink. I believe the refrigerator is plugged into its own duplex receptacle in the area under the sink. The solution might be as simple as plugging the cord back into the receptacle, then replacing the drawers. That fridge receptacle is not on the same circuit as the rest of the 120V receptacles; the rest are GFCI protected, while the fridge receptacle is not. So, it is also possible that the circuit breaker for just the fridge receptacle circuit has tripped. If the fridge plug is not the issue, then I recommend you check the 120V circuit breaker panel under the front dinette seat to see if there is a tripped breaker in that circuit. Good luck!

Good to know. Since Oliver can't install a Micro Air Easy Start in a Truma Aventa Eco air conditioner, does anyone know how much generator wattage is required to start it up?

Did Anita happen to tell you how much generator power is needed to start up the Truma Aventa Eco, without the Micro Air Easy Start?

To my knowledge, Oliver has not yet installed any Truma Aventa Eco air conditioners in any trailers sold to customers. So, there is no "real world" experience to draw from. But, posters on this Forum have advised that Oliver has installed a Truma Aventa Eco in a demo trailer being shown to customers at the factory, and that Oliver has done some testing of that air conditioner before deciding to offer it in production models. As I read the specs, the Truma Aventa Eco draws 10.8A on "high," fewer than 10A at lower speeds. As it operates on 120V power, it will pull 1296 watts on "high" (voltsxamps=watts). This math suggests that your 1600/2000 watt generator should be able to keep up with 1296 watts of non-startup power demand. What I cannot find is how many watts the Truma Aventa Aco draws at compressor startup. It is touted as "30% more efficient than traditional 13.5k BTU rooftop units." Does this mean it is also more efficient at startup? I don't know. But, Oliver commonly installs Micro-Air Easy Start modules in AC units to help generators deal with compressor startup power demand. So, I recommend you ask your Oliver salesperson: 1. If Oliver's tests have indicated what the Truma Aventa Eco startup power demand is; 2. Whether Oliver has tested the Truma Aventa Eco with and without the Micro Air Easy Start; 3. Whether Oliver has tested the Truma Aventa Eco on generator power, and if so, the rated output of that generator; and 4. Whether Oliver is planning to install Micro Air Easy Start modules in the Truma Aventa Eco units that will be installed in 2023 model Oliver trailers. The answers to those questions should inform your judgment as to whether your Yamaha 2000/1600 watt generator will be adequate to both start and run the Truma Aventa Eco, and whether installation of a Micro Air Easy Start module would be required. Please post what you learn from your Oliver salesperson on this thread. I expect you are not the only person interested in the results.

WD40 is my adhesive residue cleaner of choice. It softens the adhesive enabling removal, yet should not harm the solar panel. Spray it on, let it soak for a few hours or overnight, then wipe it off with something non-abrasive, like a shop towel. If necessary, repeat. I now use residue-free duct tape!

Thanks for the link. Interesting reading indeed. It persuaded me to not install a fuse in the breakaway switch wire.

Would it be possible to identify which wires on the DC electrical bus go to the breakaway switch, and disconnect them there? I would then do as John Davies has done and install a 20A fuse, or maybe a circuit breaker? Would this 20A DC circuit breaker work? https://www.amazon.com/RKURCK-Waterproof-Inverter-Trolling-Protection/dp/B077CYL8DH/ref=asc_df_B077CYL8DH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242027088707&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6283571651521133664&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-452616206778&psc=1

Yes, you can, but for how long will depend on which lithium package you purchase. And, as John Davies points out, once your battery charge is depleted, you will need a means of recharge to supplement solar. Otherwise, your other electrical loads such as lights, fans, microwave, etc. will not work. Some folks have chosen to buy the Lithium Platinum package, along with additional portable solar panels, to maximize their AC run time when boondocking, and their solar recharge capability. But, even with that significant additional expense, they will not be able to run the AC for more than a few hours per day without a generator, even in full sun. For what it's worth, we have an Elite II on order with the Lithium Pro package. We expect we will be able to run the AC on battery power, through the inverter, for an hour or so at a time. But, we will also carry a Champion 2500 watt dual fuel generator and a separate propane tank in the bed of our pickup, so we can power the AC for longer if desired, and recharge the batteries when needed.

Unless you have previously replaced the AGM batteries in your 2018 Elite, it is no surprise they are dead. 4+ years is within the expected life of batteries with lead-acid chemistry, including Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries. Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries cost quite a bit more, but have a much longer life, particularly if they are not used daily. Unlike AGM batteries, LiFePO4 battery life depends much more on usage than just the passage of time. So, unless you are full timing in your Oliver, you will likely get 10 years or more from LiFePO4 batteries. Worth the additional investment, in my judgment. There are some very useful threads on this Forum describing upgrades in Olivers from AGM to LiFePO4 batteries, including replacement of the converter. In your shoes, I would invest in a lithium upgrade. Otherwise you will likely be once again replacing your new AGMs 4-6 years from now.

I note this thread is now four years old, with no recent entries. Has Oliver improved the solar panel attachment design so this is no longer an issue? https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2066-how-to-install-safeties-on-the-solar-panel-mount-knobs-important/

Do manufacturers of other high-end travel trailers and motor homes (e.g. Airstream, Liesure Van) currently provide electrical diagrams?

That process is called "burnishing." It entails making multiple long (non-emergency) stops at moderate to low speeds (say from 35 mph to about 0) on deserted sections of road. We plan to burnish the brakes on our new Elite II as we drive from the Oliver campsite to David Crockett State Park, for our post-delivery Days 2-4 full shakedown. Hopefully no emergency stops will be required before long after we have left DCSP!

Amen. Just like overloading your tow vehicle, failure to use a WDH when your TV owner's manual says it is "required" is negligence per se. Make sure both your tow vehicle and your travel trailer are well insured!

Thanks for the report. It is on our "bucket list." I have heard there is lots of gravel road on that route. Any rock chips on the front of the Oliver hull? Did you install any protection in that area, such as 3M paint protection film? If so, how well did it work?

I just did some calculations based on CRM's 2015 Optional Upgrades and Add-Ons list. I added to the 2015 base price the cost of the items that I believe were optional in 2015 but are now standard. They include: (1) $1800 for fiber granite countertops; (2) $200 for reading lights; (3) $500 for 4 (as opposed to only 2) wet cell lead acid batteries and (4) $75 each for additional outlet (I think there are 3 in a 2022 Elite I, so I added $150). With a $48,500 base price in 2015, the total for what is now the "base" 2022 Elite II was $51,500. Adjusted for inflation from 2015 to 2022, the result is $61,148. The base price of the 2022 Elite II we have on order is $65,000. So, Oliver has increased the price, after adjustment for inflation, by $3852. That is a "real" increase, after inflation, of about 7.5%. In my view, a 7.5% increase is a moderate response by Oliver to a hot RV market. After working through that interesting exercise, we are still comfortable that our 2022 Elite II is a sensible purchase, and will be a good long-term value.