Rivernerd

So, when calculating payload, the driver's weight, whatever it is, must also be added to passenger and cargo weight to determine a total? Can you provide a citation for this?

Seems consistent to me. A driver is not a passenger.

As noted by Frank C, no, you can't add payload and towing capacity. I like to think of towing and payload capacity the way car manufacturers do. Rated towing capacity presumes there is nothing in the tow vehicle except a 150 lb. driver. This enables car companies to advertise the highest possible numbers. In the real world, few folks tow a trailer with nothing but a 150 lb. driver. Payload capacity makes the same assumption: a 150 lb. driver, nothing else. No passengers, no cargo. And, when towing, the tongue weight (usually about 10% of a properly-loaded trailer) must be included in payload calculations. So for me, the critical limitation is payload, not towing capacity. Given that about 10% of the weight in a properly-loaded trailer is tongue weight, if your goal is to stay within your tow vehicle's limited payload capacity, you are better off putting more of your gear weight in the trailer, so long as you don't exceed the tongue weight capacity of your tow vehicle. That way, only 10% of it "counts" against your payload capacity. For example, if your actual tow vehicle payload capacity is 1200 lbs. and your properly-loaded trailer weighs 4500 lbs. (so tongue weight is 450 lbs.), you have 750 lbs. of remaining safe payload capacity. With your 115-lb. wife, you are down to 635 lbs. If you weigh more than 150 lbs., you must also deduct the difference between your actual, fully-clothed weight and 150 lbs. from your payload number. If you use an Andersen weight distribution hitch (and you should with a Highlander towing a Legacy Elite), subtract another 60 lbs. The residual determines the weight of additional gear you can safely carry in the tow vehicle. I, too, will be surprised if your Highlander actually has 1600 lbs. of payload capacity. I expect it may be closer to 1200 lbs., like my hypothetical above. I second the recommendation above that you post a photo of the sticker on the driver's side of your Highlander. Only with that information can a sensible calculation be done.

Maybe this 2-gallon gas can would fit, along with the Honda EU2200i? https://www.amazon.com/Sanycool-No-Gasoline-Container-Plastic/dp/B08HYNQ4YF/ref=asc_df_B08HYNQ4YF/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459647904235&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16644264739175586450&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-984610809534&psc=1

While I laud Lithionics customer service response, I presume there is no way for a user to recalibrate the BMS, even with the app?

So, to summarize the important data gathered in this thread: (1) You can upgrade to the more expensive, but quieter and more efficient, Truma air conditioner; (2) but, "you won't need" (and you can't install) a Micro Air Easy Start in it, therefore (3) you must also have at least a 2200 watt generator to run the "more efficient" Truma unit when boondocking. Thus, bbrault, you cannot start and run the Truma Aventa Eco with your Yamaha 2000 watt generator that will fit in the front basket of an Elite. But, for significant additional cost, you can run it with a Honda EU3200i, which will also fit in that front basket.

The fact that trailers can actually be damaged by use of a weight distribution hitch with too heavy a tow vehicle is an excellent point. It would be important evidence supporting a defendant in a personal injury suit, driving a 3/4 or 1-ton tow vehicle, arising out of a trailer towing accident. It supports using a WD hitch when it is "required, and not using one when it is only "recommended."

I am a retired lawyer. I concur with John Davies' statement. In contrast to the "recommended" language in your Ram 3500 owner's manual, my 2019 Tundra owner's manual states that for trailers over 5K lbs., weight distributing hitches are "required." From a legal standpoint, the difference between those two words is huge. As an illustration, if I failed to use a weight distributing hitch on my Tundra when towing an Elite II, I would expect that failure to be considered negligence per se. As a result, I would likely be held liable, per se, in an accident where I lost control of the vehicle/trailer. If you choose not to use a weight distributing hitch with your Ram 3500, any plaintiff seeking to prove that your decision to not use a weight distributing hitch was negligent would be looking up a very "steep cliff." Night and day difference in a courtroom. If I had a Ram 3500, I would not use a weight distributing hitch towing an Oliver Elite II.

So, per Truma's specs, you can't run a Truma Aventa Eco with a 2000/1600 watt generator. Since the Truma Aventa Eco requires only 1296 watts (10.8A at 120V) for regular running, I infer from the data that startup power consumption is higher, maybe as high as 20 or more amps. bbrault, perhaps the Honda EU3200i is the only generator/inverter on the market that will provide sufficient wattage to start and run the Truma Aventa Eco, and still fit in the Legacy Elite front basket?

Every air conditioner with which I am familiar requires quite a bit more power at startup than when just running. Does the Truma Aventa Eco draw the same amount of power all of the time (10.8A on high), i.e., no additional power is required at compressor startup? It seems to me that to reliably answer the Original Poster's question (whether he can run the Truma Aventa Eco with his Yamaha 2000/1600 watt generator), that is a critical fact we still don't know. bbrault, I, for one, am still interested to learn whether Oliver tested the Truma Aventa Eco with only a generator, and if so, how many watts it requires at startup.

Looks like the EU3200i will fit in a Legacy Elite front basket. Impressive, at 59 lbs. and 58 db.

Was the Truma rep specifically asked about running the Truma Aventa Eco with a generator with only a 1600 continuous watt rating (i.e., enough to meet regular electrical demand, as the Truma Aventa Eco draws 10.8A on high, which equates to 1296 watts at 120V)?

The EU3000is is 22" x 17.6". The EU2200i is 20"x 11.4". The EU2000i will apparently fit in the Elite front basket, which is 26.75" x 14.375" x 7.75" (L x W x H). The EU 3000is will not fit.

This appears to be good news, bbrault. But, it is known yet whether a 2200 watt inverter/generator will start the Truma Aventa Eco on its own (since Oliver cannot install the Micro Air Easy Start)?

I am confused. Corvus' recommended stainless steel replacement caps are 4.25" diameter. John Davies' recommended stainless steel replacement caps are 1.98" diameter. And, the description for the 1.98" says "Fits Most 5-Lug Trailer Hubs." The wheels on the Elite II sure look like 6-lug to me. Will either fit the Elite II wheels?

ScubaRX, thanks for tracking down the "nugget" you cite. But, it appears to me that the reference is to a 240V (Australian) Truma Aventa Comfort (15Kbtu), not the 120V (USA) Truma Aventa Eco (13.5Kbtu) Oliver will be installing in 2023 models. Here's the quote from the referenced comment to that 2016 article: "I’m looking to power a TRUMA Aventa Comfort Mk2 AC with a Cromtech Outback CGT2500i generator that, according to the data above, should be sufficient. However I’m concerned the start spike input power of the AC will be to high for the generator. Truma state that the AC requires 20Amps for start-up..." I understand that Truma has just recently re-engineered the Aventa AC models for the US/Canadian 120V market, which includes lower power draw. So, it appears to me we still don't have a reliable answer to the question: "How much generator wattage is required to start up the120V, 13.5Kbtu Truma Aventa Eco air conditioners Oliver will be installing in 2023 Elite models?" bbrault, I still think this is an excellent question for your Oliver sales rep. Please post the answer you receive!

X-chocks between the wheels may help. https://www.amazon.com/X-Chock-Wheel-Stabilizer-Handle-28012/dp/B002XLHUQG/ref=asc_df_B002XLHUQG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312098740701&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9066806933936176184&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-365326661179&psc=1 Also, are your stabilizer jacks fully extended, or are they on jack blocks? The further the stabilizer jacks are extended, the greater the potential for movement as weight is shifted inside the trailer.

Many thanks to John Davies for including instructions on drawer removal, and removal of the access panel behind the drawers. The Oliver video linked below includes instructions on removal of the access panel, and shows where the fridge plugs into the receptacle behind that access panel. Legacy Elite II Drawer Removal & Components Hope this helps.

Yes, remove the drawers under the galley sink. I believe the refrigerator is plugged into its own duplex receptacle in the area under the sink. The solution might be as simple as plugging the cord back into the receptacle, then replacing the drawers. That fridge receptacle is not on the same circuit as the rest of the 120V receptacles; the rest are GFCI protected, while the fridge receptacle is not. So, it is also possible that the circuit breaker for just the fridge receptacle circuit has tripped. If the fridge plug is not the issue, then I recommend you check the 120V circuit breaker panel under the front dinette seat to see if there is a tripped breaker in that circuit. Good luck!

Good to know. Since Oliver can't install a Micro Air Easy Start in a Truma Aventa Eco air conditioner, does anyone know how much generator wattage is required to start it up?

Did Anita happen to tell you how much generator power is needed to start up the Truma Aventa Eco, without the Micro Air Easy Start?

To my knowledge, Oliver has not yet installed any Truma Aventa Eco air conditioners in any trailers sold to customers. So, there is no "real world" experience to draw from. But, posters on this Forum have advised that Oliver has installed a Truma Aventa Eco in a demo trailer being shown to customers at the factory, and that Oliver has done some testing of that air conditioner before deciding to offer it in production models. As I read the specs, the Truma Aventa Eco draws 10.8A on "high," fewer than 10A at lower speeds. As it operates on 120V power, it will pull 1296 watts on "high" (voltsxamps=watts). This math suggests that your 1600/2000 watt generator should be able to keep up with 1296 watts of non-startup power demand. What I cannot find is how many watts the Truma Aventa Aco draws at compressor startup. It is touted as "30% more efficient than traditional 13.5k BTU rooftop units." Does this mean it is also more efficient at startup? I don't know. But, Oliver commonly installs Micro-Air Easy Start modules in AC units to help generators deal with compressor startup power demand. So, I recommend you ask your Oliver salesperson: 1. If Oliver's tests have indicated what the Truma Aventa Eco startup power demand is; 2. Whether Oliver has tested the Truma Aventa Eco with and without the Micro Air Easy Start; 3. Whether Oliver has tested the Truma Aventa Eco on generator power, and if so, the rated output of that generator; and 4. Whether Oliver is planning to install Micro Air Easy Start modules in the Truma Aventa Eco units that will be installed in 2023 model Oliver trailers. The answers to those questions should inform your judgment as to whether your Yamaha 2000/1600 watt generator will be adequate to both start and run the Truma Aventa Eco, and whether installation of a Micro Air Easy Start module would be required. Please post what you learn from your Oliver salesperson on this thread. I expect you are not the only person interested in the results.

WD40 is my adhesive residue cleaner of choice. It softens the adhesive enabling removal, yet should not harm the solar panel. Spray it on, let it soak for a few hours or overnight, then wipe it off with something non-abrasive, like a shop towel. If necessary, repeat. I now use residue-free duct tape!

Thanks for the link. Interesting reading indeed. It persuaded me to not install a fuse in the breakaway switch wire.

Would it be possible to identify which wires on the DC electrical bus go to the breakaway switch, and disconnect them there? I would then do as John Davies has done and install a 20A fuse, or maybe a circuit breaker? Would this 20A DC circuit breaker work? https://www.amazon.com/RKURCK-Waterproof-Inverter-Trolling-Protection/dp/B077CYL8DH/ref=asc_df_B077CYL8DH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242027088707&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6283571651521133664&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-452616206778&psc=1