Rivernerd

Yes, remove the drawers under the galley sink. I believe the refrigerator is plugged into its own duplex receptacle in the area under the sink. The solution might be as simple as plugging the cord back into the receptacle, then replacing the drawers. That fridge receptacle is not on the same circuit as the rest of the 120V receptacles; the rest are GFCI protected, while the fridge receptacle is not. So, it is also possible that the circuit breaker for just the fridge receptacle circuit has tripped. If the fridge plug is not the issue, then I recommend you check the 120V circuit breaker panel under the front dinette seat to see if there is a tripped breaker in that circuit. Good luck!

Good to know. Since Oliver can't install a Micro Air Easy Start in a Truma Aventa Eco air conditioner, does anyone know how much generator wattage is required to start it up?

Did Anita happen to tell you how much generator power is needed to start up the Truma Aventa Eco, without the Micro Air Easy Start?

To my knowledge, Oliver has not yet installed any Truma Aventa Eco air conditioners in any trailers sold to customers. So, there is no "real world" experience to draw from. But, posters on this Forum have advised that Oliver has installed a Truma Aventa Eco in a demo trailer being shown to customers at the factory, and that Oliver has done some testing of that air conditioner before deciding to offer it in production models. As I read the specs, the Truma Aventa Eco draws 10.8A on "high," fewer than 10A at lower speeds. As it operates on 120V power, it will pull 1296 watts on "high" (voltsxamps=watts). This math suggests that your 1600/2000 watt generator should be able to keep up with 1296 watts of non-startup power demand. What I cannot find is how many watts the Truma Aventa Aco draws at compressor startup. It is touted as "30% more efficient than traditional 13.5k BTU rooftop units." Does this mean it is also more efficient at startup? I don't know. But, Oliver commonly installs Micro-Air Easy Start modules in AC units to help generators deal with compressor startup power demand. So, I recommend you ask your Oliver salesperson: 1. If Oliver's tests have indicated what the Truma Aventa Eco startup power demand is; 2. Whether Oliver has tested the Truma Aventa Eco with and without the Micro Air Easy Start; 3. Whether Oliver has tested the Truma Aventa Eco on generator power, and if so, the rated output of that generator; and 4. Whether Oliver is planning to install Micro Air Easy Start modules in the Truma Aventa Eco units that will be installed in 2023 model Oliver trailers. The answers to those questions should inform your judgment as to whether your Yamaha 2000/1600 watt generator will be adequate to both start and run the Truma Aventa Eco, and whether installation of a Micro Air Easy Start module would be required. Please post what you learn from your Oliver salesperson on this thread. I expect you are not the only person interested in the results.

WD40 is my adhesive residue cleaner of choice. It softens the adhesive enabling removal, yet should not harm the solar panel. Spray it on, let it soak for a few hours or overnight, then wipe it off with something non-abrasive, like a shop towel. If necessary, repeat. I now use residue-free duct tape!

Thanks for the link. Interesting reading indeed. It persuaded me to not install a fuse in the breakaway switch wire.

Would it be possible to identify which wires on the DC electrical bus go to the breakaway switch, and disconnect them there? I would then do as John Davies has done and install a 20A fuse, or maybe a circuit breaker? Would this 20A DC circuit breaker work? https://www.amazon.com/RKURCK-Waterproof-Inverter-Trolling-Protection/dp/B077CYL8DH/ref=asc_df_B077CYL8DH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242027088707&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6283571651521133664&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-452616206778&psc=1

Yes, you can, but for how long will depend on which lithium package you purchase. And, as John Davies points out, once your battery charge is depleted, you will need a means of recharge to supplement solar. Otherwise, your other electrical loads such as lights, fans, microwave, etc. will not work. Some folks have chosen to buy the Lithium Platinum package, along with additional portable solar panels, to maximize their AC run time when boondocking, and their solar recharge capability. But, even with that significant additional expense, they will not be able to run the AC for more than a few hours per day without a generator, even in full sun. For what it's worth, we have an Elite II on order with the Lithium Pro package. We expect we will be able to run the AC on battery power, through the inverter, for an hour or so at a time. But, we will also carry a Champion 2500 watt dual fuel generator and a separate propane tank in the bed of our pickup, so we can power the AC for longer if desired, and recharge the batteries when needed.

Unless you have previously replaced the AGM batteries in your 2018 Elite, it is no surprise they are dead. 4+ years is within the expected life of batteries with lead-acid chemistry, including Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries. Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries cost quite a bit more, but have a much longer life, particularly if they are not used daily. Unlike AGM batteries, LiFePO4 battery life depends much more on usage than just the passage of time. So, unless you are full timing in your Oliver, you will likely get 10 years or more from LiFePO4 batteries. Worth the additional investment, in my judgment. There are some very useful threads on this Forum describing upgrades in Olivers from AGM to LiFePO4 batteries, including replacement of the converter. In your shoes, I would invest in a lithium upgrade. Otherwise you will likely be once again replacing your new AGMs 4-6 years from now.

I note this thread is now four years old, with no recent entries. Has Oliver improved the solar panel attachment design so this is no longer an issue? https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2066-how-to-install-safeties-on-the-solar-panel-mount-knobs-important/

Do manufacturers of other high-end travel trailers and motor homes (e.g. Airstream, Liesure Van) currently provide electrical diagrams?

That process is called "burnishing." It entails making multiple long (non-emergency) stops at moderate to low speeds (say from 35 mph to about 0) on deserted sections of road. We plan to burnish the brakes on our new Elite II as we drive from the Oliver campsite to David Crockett State Park, for our post-delivery Days 2-4 full shakedown. Hopefully no emergency stops will be required before long after we have left DCSP!

Amen. Just like overloading your tow vehicle, failure to use a WDH when your TV owner's manual says it is "required" is negligence per se. Make sure both your tow vehicle and your travel trailer are well insured!

Thanks for the report. It is on our "bucket list." I have heard there is lots of gravel road on that route. Any rock chips on the front of the Oliver hull? Did you install any protection in that area, such as 3M paint protection film? If so, how well did it work?

I just did some calculations based on CRM's 2015 Optional Upgrades and Add-Ons list. I added to the 2015 base price the cost of the items that I believe were optional in 2015 but are now standard. They include: (1) $1800 for fiber granite countertops; (2) $200 for reading lights; (3) $500 for 4 (as opposed to only 2) wet cell lead acid batteries and (4) $75 each for additional outlet (I think there are 3 in a 2022 Elite I, so I added $150). With a $48,500 base price in 2015, the total for what is now the "base" 2022 Elite II was $51,500. Adjusted for inflation from 2015 to 2022, the result is $61,148. The base price of the 2022 Elite II we have on order is $65,000. So, Oliver has increased the price, after adjustment for inflation, by $3852. That is a "real" increase, after inflation, of about 7.5%. In my view, a 7.5% increase is a moderate response by Oliver to a hot RV market. After working through that interesting exercise, we are still comfortable that our 2022 Elite II is a sensible purchase, and will be a good long-term value.

I concur. I also recommend that you verify whether the particular Airstream model you are considering has a plywood or a composite subfloor. I understand that Airstream is now installing composite subfloors in some, but not all, new models. Then, if the model you like comes with a plywood subfloor, Google "Airstream subfloor replacement" and watch the multiple Youtube videos that come up in response to that search. The Airstream model we evaluated, before committing to buy an Oliver, came with a plywood subfloor.

Great suggestion! But, how about drilling the small hole, letting it drain, then filling the hole with clear caulk? If the reflector fills with water again, it should be easy to drill out the caulk, drain again and re-caulk.

I would drop the PSI in all 4 tires down to no more than 50 now, using a quality tire pressure gauge, I would do this both before and after you get a TPMS system. The TPMS just helps you monitor PSI while you are on the road.

Thanks for the informative replies. You all make good points. It appears that running the furnace and using down comforters are the best way to stay warm the way we like it. We opted for the two 20-lb. propane tanks, because I have bilateral torn rotator cuffs and expect it will be very difficult to lift 30-lb. tanks (which weigh 55 lbs. when full) into the "doghouse." It is tough enough for me now to lift 20-lb. tanks (which weigh 36 lbs. when full) that high, and I'm not getting any younger! So, we will have 10 gallons of tank capacity available. When running the furnace all night, along with an absorption fridge/freezer, how much propane is burned per day? In those conditions, how often must two 20-lb. propane tanks be refilled?

I searched but found no threads on this topic. We take delivery of an Elite II in November, 2022. We anticipate some cold overnight lows as we make our way back to Idaho in mid-November. Both my wife and I like to sleep warm. We use 110V electric blankets at home when it's cold outside. Our Elite II will have 390 Ah of lithium battery capacity, so we could run two twin-sized 12V electric blankets at night (reported amp draws are between 4.5-5 amps per hour, so using two blankets for 8 hours should consume between 72 and 80 Ah per night). That is less than 25% of the usable battery capacity per night, so we figure that will work. Even with cloudy days, we expect that solar regeneration will likely keep up with that usage. We have also considered 110V electric blankets, but the ones I have found pull about 126 watts each for the twin size, so two using inverted 12V power (at about 10.5 amps per hour, or a total of 21 amps per hour), will consume more than 160 Ah in an 8-hour night. With inverter loss, the total is likely closer to about 200 Ah per night. That's more than 50% of our available battery capacity, and if the weather is cloudy, we may not be able to replenish that power with the solar panels. So, it appears that 12V blankets are the only potentially viable option. But, my research has revealed no 12V electric blankets on the market that don't have auto shutoffs after 45-60 minutes. We don't want to have to wake up every hour to turn the blankets back on! Does anyone use electric blankets in an Oliver? If so, what do you use, and how has it worked for you? If using 12V, how do you get around the auto-shutoff feature? If you don't use electric blankets on cold nights, do you take warm sleeping bags? Or do you run the furnace all night, burning propane, to maintain comfortable temps?

I have mixed feelings about this issue that highlight the difference between micro and macro economic analysis. We take delivery of a 2022 Elite II in November, with a base price of $65K, and a much higher total price with the options we have selected. From a "micro" perspective, we would, personally, prefer to pay less. But we are grateful we are not paying for a 2023 model! The "macro" view is explained by simple supply/demand analysis and adjustment for inflation. The referenced price increases are quite predictable given the surge in RV demand caused by the pandemic, and the inflation surge of the past year+, which has been driven by increased material and labor costs. Given these factors, one could argue that Olivers have been underpriced for the market from 2016 through 2022. Thus, from a "macro" perspective, we are paying less than true "market value" for our 2022 Elite II.

I share your concern. We are scheduled to take delivery of an Elite II in November. After you pick up your trailer, please post the results of your initial inspection here. That may indicate whether the Oliver production folks have improved their quality control since John and Jodi's Elite II was made.

I second John Davies' recommendation to avoid the "work truck." Buying a high-end travel trailer like the Oliver, then towing it with a work truck makes no sense to me. Also, given what you want to haul, I don't view the 3500 as overkill. You will never wish you had a less robust suspension, or less payload capacity.

I looked hard at the GMC Sierra 2500 gas 4x4 with the 6.6L engine as a potential tow vehicle for an Elite II. In your shoes, I would take advantage of the GM employee discount and would not buy any less truck than a Sierra 2500 to tow an Elite II. Given the relatively small upcharge for the Sierra 3500 (at GM cost), and with the stuff you want to take along, I would seriously consider the 3500. With a 1500 you will need a weight distribution hitch to tow an Elite II. With the 2500 or 3500, no WD hitch required.