Rivernerd

When you call Oliver's Service Department, see if they can tell you which brand of faucet was installed in your specific Hull #. I presumed it was a Delta with the blue clip because I saw the blue clip in the Townesw photo. But your new photo demonstrates that the two connections are not the same. Even Delta uses different clips for different faucet models, like the black one pictured here: https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Faucet-RP32522-Quick-Connect-Clip/dp/B000UB9U96/ref=asc_df_B000UB9U96/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167155689281&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14985865155053231365&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-273474638602&psc=1 In addition to the "blue clip" models, I have also installed Delta faucets with this kind of black clip. Maybe Oliver Service can send you in the right direction? This incident, and the one referenced by Corvus above make me wonder if Oliver has installed some kitchen faucets that don't come with a clip, and thus the failures? You might ask them about this. If yours was a "clipless" faucet that failed maybe they would send you a replacement without charge? I would also invest in a water sensor, like the one listed by Sakthorp, above. I plan to place one of those under the kitchen sink in the new Elite II we are picking up in the fall! If you go the tape route, I recommend Gorilla tape, cut into 1/2" strips and tightly spiral wrapped, over duct tape. If you can't find a clip that fits, and you do end up taping to get you through your trip to Utah, I recommend you replace the faucet with one that includes the clip after you get home. Hope this helps! Good luck! And, please report back with what you learn from Oliver Service.

I reported the performance of our Tundra on downhill grades with a trailer in response to your reference to engine braking and hill-assist features. We bought our 2019 Tundra before we decided to buy a travel trailer. Since we own it, we plan to use it to tow the Elite II, but with an Andersen WD hitch because the Tundra doesn't weight much more than the Elite II. If we were now in the market for a tow vehicle for the Elite II, we would likely swallow hard (knowing we are giving up some reliability), and go for a 3/4 ton GMC 2500 or 3500 with the 6.6L gas engine and trailer package. Why? (1) Toyota does not offer a 3/4 ton pickup, yet a 3/4 ton provides a larger safety margin towing an Elite II; (2) our local mechanic has a low opinion of the reliability of Dodge pickups; (3) diesel fumes nauseate my wife and (4) Ford does not offer a Double Cab, which we prefer over either an extended cab or crew cab. So, we concur with your leaning: get a 3/4 ton for safety, even though it will not be a Toyota.

Does anyone know? Makes me wonder if the refrigerator receptacle is GFCI protected, like other 120V receptacles in the trailer. Does anyone know? If it is, then the NEC may allow it to be located in a potentially wet area, like a receptacle next to a bathroom sink.

Yes. It is on my long list of things to check at the factory. I also plan to test the water systems, both with "city" water and from the fresh water tank while at the Oliver campsite, then pull the drawers under the sink again to verify no leaks before we leave Hohenwald.

The photos tell the story; thanks for those. The "black water line" you reference connects the two parts of the hose that supply water to the pull-out part of the faucet. The two parts are designed to "click" together and be water tight, held together by a clip that is usually blue. Can you find the clip? If so, I recommend you try pushing the two parts together, then secure them with the clip. If you hear a (very satisfying) click, and the clip seems secure, then run water through the faucet and into the sink, then verify there is no leak at that joint. If it doesn't leak, I'd leave the drawers out for a couple of days to let it dry out, aided by a fan, then test each day to be sure there is no further leakage. If it leaks, or if the clip is AWOL, I would replace the faucet with any standard faucet from Home Depot or Lowes. Replacing the plywood is a major project. I don't yet own an Oliver, so I don't know what supports the plywood in that area, and therefore what would be required to cut the water-damaged wood back to a "joist" that could support a replacement piece. I hope someone with an Oliver can chime in here. But, proper replacement of the plywood might require removal of the entire cabinet under the sink, including drawer glides, etc., cutting out the rotted part, then patching in a new piece, replacing the cabinet, etc. Uggghh. Before committing to that route, I would allow the area to thoroughly dry for several days, aided by a small fan. I would then scrub down the entire damaged area with a 10/1 water/bleach solution (90% water, 10% bleach) and let it dry aided by a fan. I would then scrub it a second time with the water bleach solution, rinse it with clean water, then let it dry again, with a fan. If done thoroughly, that should kill the mold and mildew. I would then apply 2 coats of a mold and mildew-killing primer. Kilz and Zinsser are common brands. https://www.homedepot.com/p/KILZ-Mold-and-Mildew-1-qt-White-Water-Based-Interior-and-Exterior-Primer-Sealer-and-Stain-Blocker-L204604/308880646?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=Shopping-BF-F_D24-G-D24-024_022_PRIMERS-Multi-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Multi_LIA&cm_mmc=Shopping-BF-F_D24-G-D24-024_022_PRIMERS-Multi-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Multi_LIA-71700000075826637-58700006498654198-92700058683659541&gclid=Cj0KCQjw29CRBhCUARIsAOboZbKRQh3-hFhcRWkMTa0atxXTbXPq-07ksX-WbroktVhk_ID8pcc3WMoaAqekEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds After the paint is dry, I would cut and screw a piece of 1/4" hardboard (a/k/a Masonite) over the top of the entire accessible part of the water-damaged, but now treated and primed, plywood. If 1/4" interferes with the bottom drawer glide, try a piece of 1/8" hardboard instead. Out of an abundance of caution, I would then prime and paint the entire affected area, including the new hardboard, with two coats of a shellac-based primer. Below is a link to one option: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-1-qt-B-I-N-Shellac-Based-White-Interior-Primer-and-Sealer-00904/100398380?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=Shopping-BF-F_D24-G-D24-024_022_PRIMERS-Multi-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Multi_LIA&cm_mmc=Shopping-BF-F_D24-G-D24-024_022_PRIMERS-Multi-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Multi_LIA-71700000075826637-58700006498654198-92700058683659541&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInKuf5ZzR9gIVeh6tBh3-CAT8EAQYAyABEgKNZfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds The shellac-based primer will help prevent mold, mildew and dry rot should you have another leak. It will also add another sealing layer, and leave the finished assembly almost as good as the original. It is lots of work, and will require many days of dry and wait time. But if it were my trailer, I would choose that route over tearing out and rebuilding the floor under the galley. So much more can go wrong with that kind of rebuild..... Good luck!

I have owned a Tundra with 5.7L V8, 6-speed auto transmission and trailer package since 2008. First a 2008, and now a 2019. They both have the "Select Shift" feature ("S" on the gear display below the "D") which allows you to manually control the transmission with a thumb wheel on the gearshift lever. I have towed several different trailers ranging from 3K lbs. to 6K lbs., sometimes with passengers and a loaded pickup bed, up and down the mountains of Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Montana during those 14 years. I have been able to sufficiently control my speed with the thumb wheel going down steep hills, being pushed by the trailer, that I rarely have had to engage the brakes. One of the reasons we bought the 2019 Tundra when the 2008 got old (in addition to our love of Toyota reliability) is this feature. I find it remarkably useful when towing in the mountains.

Oops! I presumed you were referring to the Elite II. If it is any consolation, I'll bet the redesigned 2023 Elite will cost a lot more than your 2022...

No consolation from me, just congratulations on having a 2022 ready for production! We have a 2022 Elite II on order for late summer production. We are glad we didn't wait and order a 2023 because of the dramatic price increase. With our selected upgrades, our Elite II would cost nearly $8600 more in a 2023 model. On what do you base your belief that the Elite II is "being redesigned next year?" My review of many years of posts on this forum suggests that Oliver has phased in improved components on a periodic, and unpredictable, basis ever since the Elite II went into production about 8 years ago. These include solar panels, composting toilets, Dexter E-Z-Flex axles, lithium batteries, convection microwaves, backup cameras, better refrigerators (Norcold), better awnings (Girard), to name a few. Upgrading to a Victron MPPT controller and (maybe even larger?) Newpowa solar panels in the middle of a model year is consistent with this pattern. I hope those upgrades are implemented before our 2022 is built! If it is any comfort, major redesigns are not always the best for everyone. The biggest engine available on the significantly redesigned 2022 Tundra is a V6. We are glad we have a 2019 Tundra with a 5.7L V8 engine. For most folks the fuel savings may leave them better off with a V6. But for use as a tow vehicle, we prefer the V8. So, we don't want the "latest and greatest" Tundra.

Before I made further efforts to remove the wet bolt, I would invest in a Grease Buster and give it a try on the bad zerk with some PB Blaster. It has worked for me on a bad zerk on my tractor. https://locknlube.com/collections/grease-buster/products/grease-buster-shop-size?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_vrelKLQ9gIVhyCtBh3D9wptEAAYASABEgLgwvD_BwE I am a big Lock-N-Lube fan. Their Grease Couplers are big time savers when lubing more than 30 zerks on my tractor!

Are the Newpowa panels the 210W size?

ChrisMI and Galway Girl: Thanks for the input. You both raise excellent points. Sound like the most sensible way to run the AC off batteries in a 2019 would be to plan to replace both the AC and the batteries at the same time, enabling the lower-amp-draw Houghton AC to run off of the Xantrex XC2000 inverter, with the Micro Air Easy Start and a transfer switch. Since the AC is not connected to the inverter, I presume new wire must be run between the hulls from the transfer switch to the new AC unit?

Bumping this old thread with a question: If another 2019 Elite II with 6V AGMs (wired in series) already has a Xantrex XC2000 installed, but an XC3000 is desired as part of a lithium upgrade (to enable running AC from the batteries/inverter), could you just swap the XC2000 for an XC3000, swap out the AGMs for Lithionics GTX 315 Ah batteries, and be done (except for disabling the 7-pin charging wire)?

I concur with Jim Oker regarding the projected life spans of lithium vs. AGM. One additional benefit of lithium not yet mentioned on this thread: you can run the AC from the batteries for a few hours. With regard to the economics of the Lithium Pro vs. Solar Pro packages, and other considerations (like weight), see this thread:

A cover would not be sufficient for winter storage in our Idaho mountain location. A robust roof structure over the trailer is required because the weight of accumulated snow in heavy snow years has caused some trailer roofs to collapse. With regard to a list of stuff to take with you when picking up an Oliver, I will PM my current working draft to John Welte. It needs editing before public posting, but it may be useful to John.

(Referring to the 1485 lb. payload capacity of a Subaru Ascent). That number exceeds, by 50 lbs ., the specified payload capacity of my 2019 Tundra Double Cab 5.7L with standard bed and towing package. It is truly remarkable for a unibody SUV.

I expect whoever holds the loan will specify the conditions under which you may sell, and how the sale must be handled. They may insist on loan payoff, or they may be willing to allow the buyer to assume the loan. They may also require that any sale be handled through an escrow agent, to ensure that the proceeds are used to pay off the loan balance, plus fees, if any. I recommend you contact that entity to find out what they require.

John Davies suggested I apply my experience as an attorney retained by insurance companies to the issues raised by this old thread. As I feel indebted to him for his dozens of incredibly useful posts on this Forum, here are my thoughts. Per the quote above, Oliver asserts it cannot purchase insurance protecting Oliver owners who show their trailers. But, Oliver surely can choose to use its corporate resources to defend and indemnify those owners against personal injury claims arising out of a showing, including retaining counsel to defend any such suit. It would be an uninsured sales overhead expense. I'll bet Oliver has agreed to fully defend and indemnify its senior corporate officers (using company funds) against personal liability when they are acting within the scope of their employment. This is common language in executive employment agreements. Oliver could do the same for owners who agree to show their trailers. But has Oliver done this? Not that I can find. Given the substantial financial benefit Oliver enjoys from the "See an Oliver in Your Area" program, I believe Oliver should offer that defense and indemnity. Also, my quick review of this thread revealed no hold harmless agreement published by Oliver, despite the suggestion in JWalmsley's above-quoted post three years ago. Did I miss it? And, upon review today of the Terms and Conditions on the "See an Oliver In Your Area" page on the OTT website, I could not find such language. If I have missed it, or missed language published by Oliver agreeing to defend and indemnify owners who show their trailers, please let me know by reply to this thread. So, where does that leave Oliver owners participating in the "See an Oliver in Your Area" program? Unprotected. There are lots of interesting legal issues raised when an injury occurs while showing someone your Oliver. Although these may fascinate the lawyers engaged to resolve a personal injury claim, no legal doctrine offers any real protection to the trailer owner. This is because attorneys' fees are often the biggest expense associated with resolving the dispute, and in this country, even if you win, you get to pay your lawyer--which means a huge financial loss for you, period. That is why contract language usually refers to both "defend" and "indemnify." "Defend" means pay a lawyer to defend the claim. "Indemnify" means pay any judgment rendered against you arising from the dispute. So, regardless of: (1) whether you are deemed to be affiliated with Oliver in some way, or (2) where or under what circumstances you show your Oliver,or (3) whether you require the prospective buyer to sign a heavy-handed liability release before setting foot in your trailer, there is presently only one "safe harbor" for anyone showing an Oliver to a prospective buyer: umbrella insurance coverage. Why? Because it pays for your defense, as well as providing indemnity. As noted in March, 2019 by Geronimo John, umbrella coverage is relatively inexpensive because it is secondary to your primary insurance policies. Such a policy is designed to transcend, and provide coverage beyond, any limitations of your homeowners' insurance or your auto/RV insurance. So, should you show your Oliver to potential buyers, even though Oliver has not agreed to defend and indemnify you against claims arising from the showing? I cannot recommend it. Maybe if enough owners decline to participate, Oliver will decide to "do the right thing" and provide defense and indemnification. Until then: do you feel lucky?

I am a retired attorney. Among other things during 35 years of practice, I defended many auto accident cases where my firm was retained by insurance companies. Insurance companies look for any viable reason to avoid paying claims. This includes failure by their insured (you) to follow safe practices, particularly manufacturers' recommendations. The owners manual for my 2019 Tundra, with the 5.7L V8 and the towing package, requires the use of a weight distributing hitch if towing more than 5000 lbs. I will be amazed if the owners manual for a current model Ford Ranger doesn't include a similar requirement. I hope you are never involved in an accident towing your Oliver with a Ranger. But it if happens, even as the result of another driver's negligence, you will be substantially exposed if you don't have a WD hitch. In that event, $800 spent on an Andersen WD hitch could save you $500K to $1M in uninsured, personal liability when your insurer declines to pay a claim because you failed to follow the requirement in your owner's manual. I will be using an Andersen WD hitch when towing my Elite II with my Tundra.

We are big fans of C-Gear mats. We plan to buy one for use with our Elite II. They are commonly used on river trips when camping on sandy beaches. The sand really does flow right through them, keeping the surface "clean" for walking.

Frank-N-Val: Thanks for your report. Now the question of interest to this retired attorney with an Elite II on order: since Oliver apparently sent you the parts but not the Plexus epoxy with which to reattach them, did Oliver's service department reimburse you for the cost of the Plexus? Or, did Oliver offer to pay for repair, including labor, at an RV service center near you, so you were not "out of pocket" for the repairs? Glued parts falling off during your "maiden voyage home from pickup" are surely covered under Oliver's "5 Star Warranty," which includes a "one-year limited warranty on all components against defects in materials or workmanship." Did Oliver "limit" the warranty to the lost parts they sent you, but decline to pay for the epoxy necessary to reattach them?

I am with John Davies on this one. Yes, travel trailers are subjected to lots of stress, bumps and jolts on the road. But if properly done at the factory, glued joints should not fail, particularly on a relatively new unit. This is not a bargain-brand trailer. Oliver sells a "Legacy" premium trailer for a premium price. Consider this statement on the Oliver website: "Our design and specifications provide superior insulation, durability, strength, and ease of maintenance. Our camping trailers are built to last a lifetime and then some. That is why we call it the LEGACY ELITE. The Oliver is built using only the highest quality materials, making it one of the longest lasting RVs on the market and can be passed down to the next generation." I, for one, am pleased that Oliver is being made aware that glued parts are falling off of relatively new units. I hope they address the underlying QC issue before mine is built for September delivery.

Kirk: Based on a recommendation from IL-Travelers on this forum, I have already installed a Rockstar full-width mud flap on our Tundra tow vehicle. IL-Travelers reports being very happy with the way it protects their Oliver. And, judging from the amount of dirt already collected on the front side of the Rockstar, it should protect the Oliver from most road debris after we take delivery in September. If you go with the Rockstar, I recommend the 2-piece "Adjustable" version over the Standard 1-piece. The adjustment is in how far the flap hangs down when you install it. You set that distance depending on where you secure piece #1 to piece #2 during assembly. For any off-pavement driving, I expect it would be better to have the flap hang down further than the non-adjustable, standard version.

Jim and Chris Neuman raise a good point: choice of mattress matters with the Standard Floor Plan. My wife likes a soft bed and I like a really firm one. We use a Sleep Number Bed at home, with her side at 35 and mine at 100! When tent camping, we take an inflatable mattress for her and just a Thermarest for me. So, our initial plan with the Elite II is to use an inflatable air mattress for her side, and just the seat cushions on my side. When we need to access the valves or breakers under the rear seating platforms, or get to the overhead cabinets, we plan to flip the air mattress up against the wall.

You could choose the Twin Bed version, but then later convert it to a king with Foy Sperring's folding insert that provides full center support. See this thread: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6355-twin-beds-to-a-king/ With that $345 option, you have to figure out where to store the additional components when not set up as a king. With the Standard Floor Plan, the middle insert that goes between the two rear benches comes conveniently velcroed to one of the closet walls. That is another reason we chose to just go with the Standard Floor Plan from the beginning. Hope this helps with your decision.

We take delivery on our Elite II in September. The Elite II we toured had the Twin Bed option. I am 6'0". The twin bed I laid down on was long enough for me, but not wide enough to support both my shoulders. That is because a standard twin bed is 38" wide, while the Oliver twin bed is only 30". I concluded I need that extra 8" to be comfortable. So, we ordered the Standard Floor Plan. Also, absent twin beds that are the full 38" wide, my wife and I prefer a king-sized bed to a double or even a queen. One reason we ordered an Elite II instead of an Elite is that, with the Standard Floor Plan, the Elite II bed is king-sized. We plan to leave that king-sized bed made up and just use the dinette area for meals, etc. I strongly recommend that, if you haven't already, you arrange through your sales rep to tour an Elite II with the Twin Bed configuration. After lying on that twin for a few minutes, then decide for yourself if you will be comfortable sleeping on a 75" x 30" twin long term.