Rivernerd

Yes, in my case.

Nope. No Virtual Private Network at our home.

FWIW, I get the same message every time I log in after rebooting my desktop PC. I thought it was a Windows quirk, as I also get similar messages from Google after logging in following a reboot. Could be a setting on my computer I don't know how to adjust?

Is targeted marketing of commercial services allowed on this forum?

By the phrase "type of battery" in the above-quoted comment, I meant lead acid type, as opposed to lithium type, not car-type lead acid vs. deep cycle lead acid. All lead acid batteries, even deep cycle ones, are beyond their useful life at 7 years. "Most deep cycle batteries can last up to six years with proper care and charging (depending on the frequency of use). " https://www.mkbattery.com/blog/how-extend-deep-cycle-battery-life

Regardless of whether the furnace runs on another set of batteries or not, you should replace your 7-year-old wet cell batteries. They are the same type of battery used on most cars and trucks. I have never gotten as much as 7 years out of such a battery without failure. Of course, the failure usually occurs in cold conditions, consistent with your report. With regard to your 12.7V readings, old lead acid batteries sometimes give unreliable readings. I expect new batteries will solve your issue.

Any travel trailer is going to leak at some point, because roof penetrations are unavoidable. The more critical question is: "What will get damaged when a leak occurs?" We have an Elite II on order precisely because we are concerned about water damage inside the trailer. My wife and I were persuaded by the Oliver double-hull design, complete with scupper holes in the bottom hull to allow any water that gets between the two hulls to drain out. We also like that there is little wood inside the trailer (just the galley cabinet) to be water damaged. We considered an Airstream, but were not interested in the plywood subfloors still used on many models, along with the much more extensive use of wood inside the trailer. Like all trailers, Airstreams have roof penetrations for AC, fan, vents, etc., so leaks will eventually develop. Once wood products behind walls get wet, they will develop mold and rot. Google "replacing an Airstream subfloor" to find out how many Airstream owners have gotten to deal with mold and rot in their subfloors. No thanks. Check out forums for other travel trailers, and you will find hundreds of horror stories about water damage resulting in rot and mold in the mass-produced "stick and staple" trailers. You will also learn that post-sale customer service from those companies falls far below the high standard set by Oliver's outstanding Customer Service Department. The results of our research persuaded us that if potential water damage, including avoidance of mold and rot, is a top priority the Oliver is an excellent choice.

According to Jason Essary in his 2021 Full Delivery Walkthrough video, no. He explains that all circuits in the trailer are protected by the GFCI under the dinette seat, except the refrigerator circuit.

John Davies, your tutorial is excellent, as usual. As one with an Elite II on order, I asked my Oliver sales rep about the non-GFCI refrigerator receptacle. I was advised that it meets "RVIA standards," but was also told that Oliver engineering would take another look at the issue. I expect those RVIA standards are the minimums, such as for run-of-the-mill "stick and staple" trailers. IMHO, premium-priced trailers like the Oliver should do more than the minimum, particularly when it comes to safety. I note that a GFCI refrigerator receptacle could be problematic. It would be a PITA to pull the drawers and remove the access panel every time there is a nuisance trip. John Davies' hard-wired, waterproof j-box avoids this issue. If our Elite II comes with the same non-GFCI receptacle with standard plug that has been used for years, I have a different solution in mind: replace the breaker for that circuit with a GFCI breaker. More expensive than John Davies' solution, but much less work to implement. As an alternative, BillATX could replace his loose receptacle with one of the newer tamper-resistant ones, which I find hold plugs almost too well, then also replace the breaker with a GFCI breaker. I expect that would entail less work reaching through between the drawer supports, which sound terribly uncomfortable to my bad back.....

Makes me wonder if the refrigerator receptacle is GFCI protected, like other 120V receptacles in the trailer. Does anyone know? If it is, then the NEC may allow it to be located in a potentially wet area, like a receptacle next to a bathroom sink. I hope you don't mind my answering my own question. Watching the 2021 Legacy Elite II Full Delivery video again today, I was struck by this statement by Jason Essary at 52:07-52:14: "Here at the front dinette we have the GFCI. All other outlets in the camper do route through this, except for the outlet for the refrigerator." (Italics added). So, unless the outlet for the refrigerator is a GFCI, it is not GFCI protected! IMHO, it surely should be in that potentially wet location. Does anyone know if that refrigerator outlet is, in fact, a GFCI?

When you call Oliver's Service Department, see if they can tell you which brand of faucet was installed in your specific Hull #. I presumed it was a Delta with the blue clip because I saw the blue clip in the Townesw photo. But your new photo demonstrates that the two connections are not the same. Even Delta uses different clips for different faucet models, like the black one pictured here: https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Faucet-RP32522-Quick-Connect-Clip/dp/B000UB9U96/ref=asc_df_B000UB9U96/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167155689281&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14985865155053231365&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-273474638602&psc=1 In addition to the "blue clip" models, I have also installed Delta faucets with this kind of black clip. Maybe Oliver Service can send you in the right direction? This incident, and the one referenced by Corvus above make me wonder if Oliver has installed some kitchen faucets that don't come with a clip, and thus the failures? You might ask them about this. If yours was a "clipless" faucet that failed maybe they would send you a replacement without charge? I would also invest in a water sensor, like the one listed by Sakthorp, above. I plan to place one of those under the kitchen sink in the new Elite II we are picking up in the fall! If you go the tape route, I recommend Gorilla tape, cut into 1/2" strips and tightly spiral wrapped, over duct tape. If you can't find a clip that fits, and you do end up taping to get you through your trip to Utah, I recommend you replace the faucet with one that includes the clip after you get home. Hope this helps! Good luck! And, please report back with what you learn from Oliver Service.

I reported the performance of our Tundra on downhill grades with a trailer in response to your reference to engine braking and hill-assist features. We bought our 2019 Tundra before we decided to buy a travel trailer. Since we own it, we plan to use it to tow the Elite II, but with an Andersen WD hitch because the Tundra doesn't weight much more than the Elite II. If we were now in the market for a tow vehicle for the Elite II, we would likely swallow hard (knowing we are giving up some reliability), and go for a 3/4 ton GMC 2500 or 3500 with the 6.6L gas engine and trailer package. Why? (1) Toyota does not offer a 3/4 ton pickup, yet a 3/4 ton provides a larger safety margin towing an Elite II; (2) our local mechanic has a low opinion of the reliability of Dodge pickups; (3) diesel fumes nauseate my wife and (4) Ford does not offer a Double Cab, which we prefer over either an extended cab or crew cab. So, we concur with your leaning: get a 3/4 ton for safety, even though it will not be a Toyota.

Does anyone know? Makes me wonder if the refrigerator receptacle is GFCI protected, like other 120V receptacles in the trailer. Does anyone know? If it is, then the NEC may allow it to be located in a potentially wet area, like a receptacle next to a bathroom sink.

Yes. It is on my long list of things to check at the factory. I also plan to test the water systems, both with "city" water and from the fresh water tank while at the Oliver campsite, then pull the drawers under the sink again to verify no leaks before we leave Hohenwald.

The photos tell the story; thanks for those. The "black water line" you reference connects the two parts of the hose that supply water to the pull-out part of the faucet. The two parts are designed to "click" together and be water tight, held together by a clip that is usually blue. Can you find the clip? If so, I recommend you try pushing the two parts together, then secure them with the clip. If you hear a (very satisfying) click, and the clip seems secure, then run water through the faucet and into the sink, then verify there is no leak at that joint. If it doesn't leak, I'd leave the drawers out for a couple of days to let it dry out, aided by a fan, then test each day to be sure there is no further leakage. If it leaks, or if the clip is AWOL, I would replace the faucet with any standard faucet from Home Depot or Lowes. Replacing the plywood is a major project. I don't yet own an Oliver, so I don't know what supports the plywood in that area, and therefore what would be required to cut the water-damaged wood back to a "joist" that could support a replacement piece. I hope someone with an Oliver can chime in here. But, proper replacement of the plywood might require removal of the entire cabinet under the sink, including drawer glides, etc., cutting out the rotted part, then patching in a new piece, replacing the cabinet, etc. Uggghh. Before committing to that route, I would allow the area to thoroughly dry for several days, aided by a small fan. I would then scrub down the entire damaged area with a 10/1 water/bleach solution (90% water, 10% bleach) and let it dry aided by a fan. I would then scrub it a second time with the water bleach solution, rinse it with clean water, then let it dry again, with a fan. If done thoroughly, that should kill the mold and mildew. I would then apply 2 coats of a mold and mildew-killing primer. Kilz and Zinsser are common brands. https://www.homedepot.com/p/KILZ-Mold-and-Mildew-1-qt-White-Water-Based-Interior-and-Exterior-Primer-Sealer-and-Stain-Blocker-L204604/308880646?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=Shopping-BF-F_D24-G-D24-024_022_PRIMERS-Multi-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Multi_LIA&cm_mmc=Shopping-BF-F_D24-G-D24-024_022_PRIMERS-Multi-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Multi_LIA-71700000075826637-58700006498654198-92700058683659541&gclid=Cj0KCQjw29CRBhCUARIsAOboZbKRQh3-hFhcRWkMTa0atxXTbXPq-07ksX-WbroktVhk_ID8pcc3WMoaAqekEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds After the paint is dry, I would cut and screw a piece of 1/4" hardboard (a/k/a Masonite) over the top of the entire accessible part of the water-damaged, but now treated and primed, plywood. If 1/4" interferes with the bottom drawer glide, try a piece of 1/8" hardboard instead. Out of an abundance of caution, I would then prime and paint the entire affected area, including the new hardboard, with two coats of a shellac-based primer. Below is a link to one option: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-1-qt-B-I-N-Shellac-Based-White-Interior-Primer-and-Sealer-00904/100398380?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=Shopping-BF-F_D24-G-D24-024_022_PRIMERS-Multi-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Multi_LIA&cm_mmc=Shopping-BF-F_D24-G-D24-024_022_PRIMERS-Multi-NA-NA-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_Multi_LIA-71700000075826637-58700006498654198-92700058683659541&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInKuf5ZzR9gIVeh6tBh3-CAT8EAQYAyABEgKNZfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds The shellac-based primer will help prevent mold, mildew and dry rot should you have another leak. It will also add another sealing layer, and leave the finished assembly almost as good as the original. It is lots of work, and will require many days of dry and wait time. But if it were my trailer, I would choose that route over tearing out and rebuilding the floor under the galley. So much more can go wrong with that kind of rebuild..... Good luck!

I have owned a Tundra with 5.7L V8, 6-speed auto transmission and trailer package since 2008. First a 2008, and now a 2019. They both have the "Select Shift" feature ("S" on the gear display below the "D") which allows you to manually control the transmission with a thumb wheel on the gearshift lever. I have towed several different trailers ranging from 3K lbs. to 6K lbs., sometimes with passengers and a loaded pickup bed, up and down the mountains of Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Montana during those 14 years. I have been able to sufficiently control my speed with the thumb wheel going down steep hills, being pushed by the trailer, that I rarely have had to engage the brakes. One of the reasons we bought the 2019 Tundra when the 2008 got old (in addition to our love of Toyota reliability) is this feature. I find it remarkably useful when towing in the mountains.

Oops! I presumed you were referring to the Elite II. If it is any consolation, I'll bet the redesigned 2023 Elite will cost a lot more than your 2022...

No consolation from me, just congratulations on having a 2022 ready for production! We have a 2022 Elite II on order for late summer production. We are glad we didn't wait and order a 2023 because of the dramatic price increase. With our selected upgrades, our Elite II would cost nearly $8600 more in a 2023 model. On what do you base your belief that the Elite II is "being redesigned next year?" My review of many years of posts on this forum suggests that Oliver has phased in improved components on a periodic, and unpredictable, basis ever since the Elite II went into production about 8 years ago. These include solar panels, composting toilets, Dexter E-Z-Flex axles, lithium batteries, convection microwaves, backup cameras, better refrigerators (Norcold), better awnings (Girard), to name a few. Upgrading to a Victron MPPT controller and (maybe even larger?) Newpowa solar panels in the middle of a model year is consistent with this pattern. I hope those upgrades are implemented before our 2022 is built! If it is any comfort, major redesigns are not always the best for everyone. The biggest engine available on the significantly redesigned 2022 Tundra is a V6. We are glad we have a 2019 Tundra with a 5.7L V8 engine. For most folks the fuel savings may leave them better off with a V6. But for use as a tow vehicle, we prefer the V8. So, we don't want the "latest and greatest" Tundra.

Before I made further efforts to remove the wet bolt, I would invest in a Grease Buster and give it a try on the bad zerk with some PB Blaster. It has worked for me on a bad zerk on my tractor. https://locknlube.com/collections/grease-buster/products/grease-buster-shop-size?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_vrelKLQ9gIVhyCtBh3D9wptEAAYASABEgLgwvD_BwE I am a big Lock-N-Lube fan. Their Grease Couplers are big time savers when lubing more than 30 zerks on my tractor!

Are the Newpowa panels the 210W size?

ChrisMI and Galway Girl: Thanks for the input. You both raise excellent points. Sound like the most sensible way to run the AC off batteries in a 2019 would be to plan to replace both the AC and the batteries at the same time, enabling the lower-amp-draw Houghton AC to run off of the Xantrex XC2000 inverter, with the Micro Air Easy Start and a transfer switch. Since the AC is not connected to the inverter, I presume new wire must be run between the hulls from the transfer switch to the new AC unit?

Bumping this old thread with a question: If another 2019 Elite II with 6V AGMs (wired in series) already has a Xantrex XC2000 installed, but an XC3000 is desired as part of a lithium upgrade (to enable running AC from the batteries/inverter), could you just swap the XC2000 for an XC3000, swap out the AGMs for Lithionics GTX 315 Ah batteries, and be done (except for disabling the 7-pin charging wire)?

I concur with Jim Oker regarding the projected life spans of lithium vs. AGM. One additional benefit of lithium not yet mentioned on this thread: you can run the AC from the batteries for a few hours. With regard to the economics of the Lithium Pro vs. Solar Pro packages, and other considerations (like weight), see this thread:

A cover would not be sufficient for winter storage in our Idaho mountain location. A robust roof structure over the trailer is required because the weight of accumulated snow in heavy snow years has caused some trailer roofs to collapse. With regard to a list of stuff to take with you when picking up an Oliver, I will PM my current working draft to John Welte. It needs editing before public posting, but it may be useful to John.

(Referring to the 1485 lb. payload capacity of a Subaru Ascent). That number exceeds, by 50 lbs ., the specified payload capacity of my 2019 Tundra Double Cab 5.7L with standard bed and towing package. It is truly remarkable for a unibody SUV.