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Hokieman

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Everything posted by Hokieman

  1. I’m interested in Frank C.’s comparison test from a performance & economic value perspective. I have a similar truck, but haven’t tried E85.
  2. Following is from Lithionics FAQ that Seadawg sent yesterday. It confirms her statements above. “-Explanation: *every two weeks, a full charge cycle in which the battery reaches 14.4 volts is required to trigger a recalibration of the internal Hall Effect Sensor shunt. When the battery exceeds 14.2 volts during charging, the SoC re-sets to 100%. (In order to fully charge a lithium ion battery, the DC loads may need to be reduced so the charge current exceeds the discharge current to allow a full battery charge.)”
  3. Oliver has a few videos on this topic including caulk recommendations in the Knowledge Base. Check to be sure the problem is not just clogged window tracks.
  4. @Katjo, I assume your question concerns longer term storage. I recall your trailer has Lithionics batteries. LiFePOH do not need to be kept charged up like AGM’s. From what I’ve read on this forum, Lithionics batteries have a switch that can be turned OFF, therefore no parasitic draws to deplete your batteries. Consult your manual for details.
  5. Welcome! See this post from earlier today with specific weights. Truck Tow Rating Explained
  6. Good question Mike, I have not heard of any problems related to keeping the charge wire connected. I called Battleborn during my install and asked that question. They said they had not heard of any problems either. I disconnected mine as a precaution, pending more information. There is a motto amongst some Engineers “In God We Trust, all others bring data” 😀 Attached are some quick notes I made for myself, as I quickly forget my own research. Disclaimer to All: I am NOT an electrical expert, so please forgive any technical errors. If you are a legitimate electrical expert, please enlighten us all with details.
  7. Yes I did, I capped and sealed it. On hull #797, it was a resettable breaker just like on @John Davies. I sent Jason Essary an email, because I wasn’t sure where the wire was located. See the following….. Q: Is the 7 Pin tow connector plug charge wire connected to the batteries? If so, where exactly is that connection made? I've been advised that OTT disconnects the charge wire on the lithium solar options, but don't know that is a fact, or if it is also not connected on the standard solar packages. A: If you ordered the camper with AGM batteries then the charge wire is connected to the auto resettable breaker under the street side bed access panel. It is the breaker to the right of the Optifuse and has a red rubber cap. One connection should be a pink wire for the safety breakaway and the black wire should be the 7-pin charge wire. If you are installing lithium then we do recommend to disconnect the charge wire but they may be dependent on the lithium batteries you get. I have had one lithium battery manufacturer tell me that they were okay leaving it connected. In the photo attached, the breaker and terminal are shown as it came from the factory. The breaker you are looking for is the lower one in the photo. The upper one is the auto-reset breaker from the Zamp solar controller, which you won’t have. FWIW I have on my future mod list the Redarc DC-DC converter that JD reported on. So far I haven’t needed it, but I may some day.
  8. I originally installed 2 Battleborn 100’s, which worked great. Two or three of these 100’s fit nicely in the tray. Last year someone posted about a blemish sale on the 100’s for $699, with full 10 year warranty. I called Battleborn to ask about it, and the guy said “Nobody ever complains to us about having too much power”. Good sales pitch, I bought it. That blemished battery sale came to me in perfect condition, no blemishes. So far 300 Ah has been overkill for our needs, we were doing just fine on 200Ah. We have solar, but no inverter, microwave, cell or WiFi boosters. I haven’t really measured it, but my guess is we use less than 50 Ah/day. If I were to do it over again, I’d probably go with the 270 Gamechanger. That would be more than enough power for us, maybe ~5 days with no sun. If you carry a generator, you can always charge up. The terminals use 5/16” SS bolts, fewer cables and connectors, a clean install. I like Battleborn because they are US made, excellent reputation, a good value, and 10 year warranty. If you ever need tech or customer service, they are a pleasure to deal with.
  9. A review of the online Standard Features manuals shows they switched from a PD4000 series to a PD9200 series converter/charger in 2020 models. For trailers with solar options, they include a Xantrex PRO 2000 or 3000 depending on the option. My 2021 EII has the Solar Basic option ( no longer available) with no inverter. My converter/charger is a PD 9260C, which is a 60A charger. It is a separate unit, the 12V fuses & 120V breakers are in a separate PD panel, not all-in-one like the older PD4000. It is lithium capable with the purchase of a $20 plug-in pendant, which I have but rarely use. Progressive Dynamics offers model 9160AVL, which is a 60A lithium charger, sells for around $300.
  10. Your plan is excellent, go camping, but stay in the area a few days just in case you need a part, or, go back to the factory if necessary. When I picked up, they had no factory campground, so I booked 3 nights at David Crockett, Oliver paid for the 1st night. I was traveling solo, because my wife couldn’t get off work, so I spent 2 days checking everything, everywhere I could crawl, or climb. All was working well, so I got bored and headed home early, dry camping a few nights at Harvest Hosts.
  11. Yes, I am a Hokie, College of Engineering, 1985. Sounds like a great plan! FWIW, after my delivery, I couldn’t find anything worth a trip back to the factory. All minor stuff I fixed later myself with help by phone or email with Oliver Service. My delivery was a pleasant experience.
  12. If you want to try camping without hookups soon after delivery, you might try Meriweather Lewis Campground, close to Hohenwald on the Natchez Trace Parkway. It’s an NFS campground, first come-first serve, and free. We haven’t stayed there yet, it’s on our list, but Campendium reviews give it 5 stars and there is a photo of an Oliver in the reviews. Comments welcome from anyone that has camped there! Camping Along the Natchez Trace Parkway
  13. I use these also, not always, but when I know I’m going to stay a few days and the TV is disconnected. I place them under the forward Jack points, snug them up. I use a square chunk of rubber on the top of each so as not to scratch up the frame. This mitigates the rocking when someone goes up and down the stairs. I store them in the storage basket on the front.
  14. I understand. I was just responding to Seadawg’s comment about a Bluetooth device.
  15. LevelMate "For trailer leveling, I use the LevelMate Pro by LogicBlue. I purchased it and had Oliver install it for me on delivery day in the closet because I was not confident that the attaching screws would be too long and pierce the visible side of the fiberglass. This system works like a charm, and I have verified its accuracy using a 4' level.“ I use a Levelmate Pro also. I was worried about the screws inside the closet so I used vhb tape. Occasionally I check with bubble level, it’s still stuck in place.
  16. Good point. I’m guessing the petroleum products could degrade the elastomers or sealants that secure the frame.
  17. Just wondering if your original question was answered? The 1st two replies you received from John Davies and Steve and MA sum up the situation. The link in John Davies post explains the details. So now you know what your wonderful trailer will or won’t do in regards to running the AC off grid, only you can decide how you plan to use it. Maybe you will use a generator, maybe not. Perhaps you’ll use additional solar panels, some do, some don’t. No wrong answers. If you’d like to know more, you could do a search, there are several other posts that discuss the topic. Let us know if you can’t find the answers, there are many here that will help you.
  18. Update: I just looked at the 2022 Owners Manual, Elite plumbing diagram, and found a surprise. The diagram shows a ball valve on the Fresh Water fill line. Why it’s there, I have no idea. I was not aware there is one on my trailer, but it’s also shown on the 2021 diagram. If there is a valve (I will be checking to confirm), then it must be in the open position on my trailer. Check to see if you have a valve like that, and if it’s open or closed. As I mentioned, this temporary problem will not keep you from camping, You can fill your tank from the Boondocking port, or you can fill it faster from the City Water fill. To fill using the City Water inlet port, open the 3 valves circled in red in the photo. The one on the lower left is the valve I’ve never seen before. No need to watch the See Level monitor, when the tank is full, it will overflow onto the ground.
  19. There is a check valve in that line, its possible that is defective or clogged with something. Did you check to see that your screen did not come dislodged and get forced into the valve? It’s possible to fill the tank from the City Water inlet. It requires a simple non-standard valve configuration that can be figured out by studying the plumbing diagram. Let me know if you need more help with that.
  20. Thanks so much for highlighting this in 2022 Owners Manual! I also checked the 2021 manual for my trailer in the Oliver University and that manual has been updated with many electrical layout diagrams. While they are not detailed wiring schematics, they are a big improvement over the blank pages that were in the manual when I received my trailer. Not sure if you newer folks have seen some of the posts, but a lack of electrical schematics in 2020 and later have been the source of many posts & complaints. Looks like somebody at Oliver responded with a compromise. If you do need more detailed wiring schematics, you can refer to the 2019 Owners Manual, which will get you close. You can also put pressure on your Oliver Sales team in advance and request them on behalf of us all.
  21. I’ve got the same Zamp 340W panels on our trailer also, as well as the standard Zamp 30A PWM controller. In a conversation with Zamp Tech Support, they said to expect an average of +/- 70AH/day, conditions varying widely of course. This figure lines up fairly well with @Jstone’s +/-10% (~63AH). I’ve never measured my daily solar input carefully, plan to do that soon just to confirm. I know I can improve that with retrofitting a Victron MPPT controller, but frankly, I have not come up short on stored power when I need it….yet. We do not have an inverter nor a microwave, so no major energy draws. I have an older Honda EU2000 generator if we fall short on power, however we rarely use it, and only to run the AC for a short while. Does anyone have good figures of how much daily power their 340W Zamp panels produce? If so, let us know which controller you use.
  22. There is a Zamp sidewall port on the street side near the battery box. The fused circuit is wired directly to the batteries. It has a limit of maybe 10A, but that’s just a guess, I don’t recall. Only the roof panels go through a controller. You’ll have to buy a small controller, PWM types are very inexpensive. As Seadawg mentioned, the Zamp outlet is an SAE type, reverse polarity. Zamp Port
  23. No. There is a dual AC outlet on the rear curb side. No. I use a portable battery to power my portable fridge, which is usually stowed in my truck. If the battery gets low, I use a Zamp extension cable plugged into the 12v Zamp sidewall port near the battery box. I use the same cable to extend the distance to my portable Zamp Portable Panels. Zamp Cable Extension It’s not difficult to install these components, but I suggest you get your trailer first to figure out if it’s necessary. As you mentioned, you could just run a short AC extension cord to the power post to power your truck fridge, or run a 12v cable to the side port.
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