Hokieman

Agree with you on BB’s, I’m very pleased with mine. Warranty is currently 10 years!

There is another option from Zarcor that works from the inside without opening the door. See @Andrew K post & pics of Ocean Air roller shade at this link. This is the upgrade my wife prefers, it’s on my task list. Ocean Air Roller Shade

I agree GJ, good ideas, I think we are on the same page. I’m also concerned about fan noise, which is why I suggested one or two fans mounted internally. These could be connected to ducting like you mentioned. Ideally, this system would also vent the battery box, keeping it warmer in extreme cold and extreme heat, to avoid BMS cutoff and optimum lithium battery performance. In this link, @NCEagle describes dual systems, both a battery compartment fan and a basement fan. Lithium Powered Vent System @NCEagle’s battery compartment mod uses a 120V duct fan with ducting. I can’t find a post with his basement fan mod, but my guess is that it’s similar and is designed to heat those critical plumbing areas. I’ve been unable to find a 12V duct fan, other than marine bilge blowers, which I worry are too noisy. @Overland proposed a nice battery compartment fan mod (same link) with a quiet fan and plastic ductwork that mounts directly to the fan, with a thermostat. Keep the ideas coming. I’m still looking for the ideal system before I cut any holes!

The cover I have now is about 2.5 years old. I had another DB cover prior to that on my previous truck. It had the same locks on it. Let us know if they send you new ones.

Perhaps I didn’t describe it clearly. Here is a pic of mine.

I’ve had my Diamondback SE cover for 2.5 years, very satisfied with it. I live in Florida however, so not exposed to severe rain/freeze unless we are traveling and camping in those conditions, which we have done only a few times. The Diamondback manual recommends “Treat your weatherstrip with a petroleum jelly or silicone-based lubricant” to keep the weatherstrip from freezing closed. The vertical locks are stainless steel with a protective shield over the keyhole, just like the type on many of our cars and trucks. Diamondback warranties the cover, the weatherstripping, and the locks for life. If you give them a call, I’ll bet they will make it right, just like Oliver usually does.

I think it is. You said in your first post that your batteries were fully charged by the generator. It won’t do that unless you have a bonding plug. Next time you hook up the generator, if your code is not reading E0, try turning off the main AC breaker to see if it doesn’t reset. I’m guessing the system is operating normally.

The Mods get to play Whac-A-Mole!

It seems to be normal, unless it does not change to E0. See snip from Manual below.

You make some valid points. I was being optimistic, not referring to all German equipment, just this machine. I don’t know anything about it other than what I read in this forum. Previous comments from knowledgeable folks mentioned that the Aventa Eco has been proven to be reliable for several years in EU and Australia.

Benefits of the Truma include proven German engineering quality and reliability, and if purchased as the new option, an integrated systems approach with water heater and furnace. I would guess most if not all of the additional cost would be recouped if and when trailer is sold.

From what I understand from your sound tests, the RecPro/Houghton seems to be at least as quiet as the Truma Aventa Eco. Got Earplugs? In addition to the much lower price and heat pump function, it will run off of a typical 2000W generator (i.e. Honda EU2200i) or inverter. I have read that the Truma Aventa Eco requires a 3000W generator or inverter to operate, but not 100% sure about that. There are pros and cons to either option, no perfect solution.

Correction: ThecRecPro Houghton 13.5 is a heat pump, does not have a heat strip. I re-read the lengthy thread “Got Earplugs” and there was some confusion and mis-reporting over heat pump vs. heat strip. The heat pump function is a significant benefit over the Dometic Penguin II, will save a lot of propane when on shore power.

Yes I recall you posting this mod, and I like it, it’s on my potential mods list. In our case, a vent would be redundant most of the time, as the door is usually propped open except when we are in there. We have 2 Labrador Retrievers and their water bowl is kept in the shower pan as they are sloppy drinkers. We use a micro fiber towel to wipe up after them before we go in there.

I didn’t re-install it yet, still working on it. Since this is the second time I have had to go inside the vanity, I’m planning on implementing this mod from Frank C . Bath Vanity Cubby Mod It was easy to remove. Pop off 4 plastic caps, remove 4 screws. Use a box cutter knife to carefully slice the caulk. I used plastic razor blades to scrape off the old caulk.

Yes, something like that.

The fan suction vent would be under or near the dinette somewhere, and draw warm cabin air in and push it between the hulls. If on shore power, an electric space heater could be placed near the fan vent, drawing warm air and saving propane. You’re right, this wouldn’t be a good idea on the new designs with a return vent in the bathroom, and seems like it’s not needed with the Truma VarioHeat. John Davies has already done this, I’m just thinking about a slight variation on his design. Check it out here. Lithium Powered Vent System Overland had some good ideas along these lines, can’t find the link. Just brainstorming here, I am not ready to cut any holes any time soon!

Update: Service got back to me awhile ago and agreed this was a problem that occurred during assembly. They gave me the option of bringing it to the factory when convenient, or giving it a try myself. They requested pictures of the interior so they could alert Quality Control. I opted to try myself, as a factory visit isn’t in the plans. I opened up the bath vanity, and disconnected the duct from the bath vent. I gently tugged and twisted the duct, stopping to take pics frequently by leaning down into the dinette locker space and under the floor. Eventually I was able to get it untwisted. I sent service the pics and advised them to close the ticket. This may be a one of a kind issue, but then again, perhaps not.

I’ve been thinking along the same lines of having a cold (<30F) weather configuration to heat under the floor, but not moderately cold conditions. How about putting a quiet 12V fan with a switch in the wall somewhere up under the dinette? Leave the main furnace intake vent as is. Turning the fan on in very cold conditions would push warm cabin air under the floor and bunks, and warm the battery box as well. Extra vent holes inside the compartments could be created to facilitate flow. This mod would use extra propane of course, but would be turned on only when needed. One advantage of a suction fan is that if using shore power, an electric space heater could be placed near the dinette. Warm air would be sucked into the lower spaces, without using the furnace and propane. Another advantage might be a cooling effect on batteries in high temps. John Davies has already done a variation of this mod with the focal point being the battery box. Ideally, the 12V fan would be powerful enough to move the air effectively, but reasonably quiet. This might be the challenge. May take more than one fan, and could be mounted inside the hull space to help reduce sound. This seems too easy, what am I missing?

My buddy is taking delivery of a 2023 AS Globetrotter 25 next week. It’s got 2 Dometic AC’s, however they are ducted, so hopefully more tolerable than mine.

Mike…I made some notes for myself as this is on my future mods list. RecPro Houghton 13.5 is quieter, uses less power, and has a heat strip. Moves as much air on Low as 9.5 moves on Medium or High. More practical than 9.5 BTU in Elite 2 size. Got Earplugs?

Beautiful work!

Hi RV Newbie! I’ll take a try: Question 1: Yes, your AC will work fine on a Honda EU2200, if you have a MicroAir EZ Start installed. You didn’t say, perhaps they are standard on your new model. If not, you need one, and they still have a Cyber Monday sale on. I have an older Honda EU2000 (less power) and it works great with my Dometic AC. Your problem is likely that you are running other AC equipment simultaneously such as the battery charger, maybe the inverter. Turn off the inverter and all AC circuit breakers before you run the AC on generator. Question 2: It may be related to Question 1, too much AC stuff running at same time. Why are you running a generator to heat water? Just use LP gas for hot water heater (and refrigerator), it’s much more efficient. Switch those appliances to AC when on shore power only. The more you use this forum, you’ll realize the answers to those questions and just about all others you will have, have already been asked and answered here within this forum. The challenge is finding the answers. Be patient and search, you’ll figure it out. Congratulations on your new trailer and welcome to Ollie World!

This recent post has some details for you, see Geronimo Johns post. Hitch Height

You can keep it open with magnets, a common mod. How to Bathroom Door Hold Open I used a Nite Ize Steely Ball that I had on hand, it works great. Nite Ize Steely Ball We also keep our bath door wide open most of the time, because we keep our dog water bowl on the shower floor. Our Labrador Retrievers are sloppy drinkers, makes cleanup easier. If we want the bath door nearly closed, but still cracked for ventilation, we turn the latch to lock, it keeps it from closing. If the furnace is running, this gives the heat flow an outlet into the main cabin. I was told the newer models have done away with the latch, and have stronger magnet strips to keep the door closed.