Hokieman

All good ideas about vice grips and whatnot, but the original post was not a request on how to do a repair, it is about loose doghouse bolts 😊. Vice grips are not the correct tool for this particular project. The purpose of the post was to suggest you check these on your trailer when convenient. A recent post from John Dorrer indicated he had the same problem with loose doghouse bolts. I submitted a service ticket (this was factory error), but repaired the problem myself.

For those of us who do not have street side awnings, this is a possible alternative. I’ve put my commitment in on Kickstarter yesterday, for a MoonShade XL, pre-order sale price of $445. As of yesterday, it was 50% funded in one day, so this indicates to me this is a popular item that is going to go into production soon. It’s 12’ x 9’ so should fit nicely along the street side, provide shade over the two large side windows next to the dinette and the rear bunk. It attaches with suction cups, 3m VHB, or you can screw or bolt anchors into your trailer. Personally I’m going to try the first 2 options. It’s a test of course, I won’t know how well it works until I try it. The price might seem high but I’ve seen and assembled the smaller version (MoonShade Original) and it is a quality piece of gear. I had to try something as my wife is still unhappy that I talked her out of the street side awning option on our trailer order. If you think you want one, I suggest you jump in now if you want the significant discount. If you’d rather wait and see, I’ll post a follow-up review with pics in the future and let you know how it worked out. MoonShade XL

We’ve been using a Travel Berkey for several years also. When we are getting ready to leave our campsite, we drain all the water into a jug and put in the fridge, fill our travel water bottles, etc. Then we remove the upper half of the Berkey, invert it and nest it in the lower half. Set it in the sink and pad it with some towels. It travels nicely that way. We haven’t figured out a convenient place to put it inside the cabin while camping, so it’s usually outside on a portable table, unless it’s freezing.

If you want to test out your boondocking capabilities while in the area, there is a free space available National Park campground near Hoehenwald at milepost 385.9 on the Natchez Parkway. Meriwether Lewis Campground

I’m wondering if it’s worth carrying a spare. It’s on my long list of potential spare parts that I don’t have, that could really mess up a nice camping trip. Are they easy to find on the road, Camping World etc? Do many of you carry a spare, or don’t bother?

I checked DuPont website. From the data sheet on their products…… “Cured foam is combustible and will burn if exposed to temperatures above 240°F (116°C). Do not apply GREAT STUFFTM foam around heaters, high heat lamps or recessed lighting fixtures, radiators, furnaces or fireplaces where it could contact heat conducting surfaces. Do not use GREAT STUFFTM foam inside electrical boxes or panels (applications around the outside of the boxes are permitted).” See attached. 0901b8038095d125.pdf

I was thinking about spray foam too. This thread and John Davies experience has me concerned about my installation, so it’s high on my priority list to inspect it. I did some checking into a company that makes DIY conversion kits for absorption fridges. JC-Refrigeration I note their website does not show a kit available for my Norcold model, and I don’t know if it’s feasible to convert. I read an installation manual, and their kit includes Great Stuff expanding foam, so perhaps that helps answer your question.

Agree with JD on not carrying that on back of trailer, for all the reasons he lays out. If you don’t want it inside the truck cab, annother option is to sell the Truma C73 and buy a smaller one that will fit. I have a 2020 F250 with a Diamondback cover. I carry a Dometic CFX 50 cooler in the bed, it fits easily under the cover. I have a Dometic PB40 lithium battery plugged into a DC power outlet that is wired to the truck battery. It gives me about a day of fridge power when truck is parked, but does not draw on the TV battery when engine isn’t running. I also have an DC input so I can connect it to a portable solar panel, or to the Zamp side port of the trailer if desired. I usually don’t need it, as we find ourself running errands or exploring, so the fridge battery re-charges as we drive The way we use our portable fridge is as a-freezer only, as our Norcold freezer is small. Usually that small freezer has ice trays and maybe some ice cream in it. We find the other Norcold food compartment large enough for the 2 of us, re-supplying on the road as needed.

I thought had a similar problem,right after I picked up my 2021 LE2 from the factory. I assumed I had checked everything before I got too far away, but I neglected to try the water heater on AC, as I was boondocking my way home. When I got home and checked it, it didn’t work. I watched a YouTube on troubleshooting the Suburban SW6DE. I tested the voltage coming into the 130F thermostat (125V), but no voltage after the thermostat. The DC thermostat was OK. I also tested the AC switch voltage (OK), and the heater element resistance (12ohm), so it was OK. I sent in a ticket to Oliver Service, advised them I could fix it myself, and they promptly sent me a new AC thermostat. It took maybe 15 minutes to troubleshoot, another 15 to repair.

I mounted mine same location as Kirk did in photo above. I used 3M VHB tape as I was worried screws would come thru the wall. I had concerns it would sag after awhile but it has been holding position for over a year. I just use the internal battery power supply, but it’s awkward to replace the batteries. The bath wall is easier to get to for battery changes.

Lots of good advice on brake controllers given, but be sure you are seeing the big picture. As several folks here have mentioned, it is illegal to tow your trailer with your truck, and you are exposed to liability in the event of an accident. Your insurance may not protect you. Before you modify your truck with a brake controller, you should evaluate the entire truck for towing capability, as just adding a brake controller may not be all you need to tow a 6000 lb trailer with >500 lb tongue weight. This includes payload, tow capacity, axle ratio, hitch load ratings, 7-pin connection, and the anti-sway compatibility with Andersen WDH. I might be overlooking something, but you get my point. It’s not difficult to figure this stuff out yourself, and if you do, you will that much more familiar with your tow vehicle and towing in general. Your initial idea of selling or trading the truck for an appropriate TV is worth looking into, and you might consider another brand in a 3/4 or 1 ton capacity.

Correct, #2 secures the latch on the Bulldog hitch to keep it from unwanted opening. I keep it as a spare, I use a small hitch pin which is easier to use and more secure. Key #3 looks like it might be a door key. Do you have the electronic lock? That key might be the one to open it if batteries go dead. Just a guess, I don’t have the electronic lock on the door.

There was an Oliver diagram with dimensions included in my post yesterday. Click link to find it. Storage Tray Dimensions

Another good option is to remove storage basket and install a box like Mike & Carol. Storage Tray

I clicked on their profile and looked at past posts. Looks like they have a 2022 E2 with Lithium Pro package, 390AH Lithionics, 3000W Xantrex inverter.

I took advantage of the solar tax credit on my 2021 taxes. I used the total amount of the solar package option on my build sheet (solar panels, no inverter and standard Lead-acid batteries). I also purchased 3 BattleBorn 100AH batteries, and a 140W Zamp portable suitcase system. All were purchased in 2021, but not at the same time. Rather than use a tax professional, which I guessed might be reluctant to sign off on it, I tried Turbo Tax Deluxe, since my taxes are very simple. TT Deluxe returns are reviewed by a tax expert and they guarantee accuracy and will provide legal assistance if audited. Like John W. and others, I figured worse case, I pay it back. To my surprise, Turbo Tax walked me right through the credit with simple questions, which I answered honestly. I received the credit, and have not been audited. Just throwing this option out there for consideration.

I think that fan has a 2 year warranty. I’m guessing from your hull number it is a 2021. Depending on when you bought your trailer, you may be eligible to replace it if necessary. See the manual, it’s easy to remove.

I finally got a response to my ticket from 10/20/22 yesterday. The request for a replacement decal was denied with a polite note explaining that the tire pressure on the trailer at time of production met the production tire specifications. They recommend I consult OEM tire manufacturers specifications for the loaded trailer weight. Which is exactly what many of us have already done, and the reason I have been running 50 psi since Delivery Day. The ticket was closed.

Steph and Dud B mentioned earlier in this post they were going to try using a rear rack on the Ollie bumper hitch. I assume that would work well, the empty tote is relatively lightweight.

I’ve studied how others have done it, and through trial and error, we all come up with what works best for us. We dry camp most of the time. The only time a I use a campground restroom is to dump my Natures Head pee bottle. The way we do it is not everyone’s cup of tea. No wrong answers, except maybe putting a full tote of waste in the back of your truck.

It’s always empty when it’s in the basket.. And it’s only used for gray water, I have a Natures Head toilet It’s not difficult at all for me to fill it up from rear of trailer, and roll it over and hook it to my bumper hitch. I don’t usually wait until it’s full. Its much easier than taking my trailer to the dump station every several days. We are currently on Day 6 dry camping, no hookups, showers for both of us every night. I’ve had to take the tote it to dump station once, probably go again tomorrow, trailer stays parked. See my post in this thread from May 14 if you are interested in why and how I use it.

If you look back a few posts for my July 16 comments, you will see pics of how a I use that same Camco Rhino tote rack to carry my 21 gallon Rhino tote. I assume your comment refers to rear bumper mounting. You can look up the mounting instructions online, It’s designed to be mounted with long U-bolts on a standard SOB steel bumpers. That mounting system won’t work with our trailers. You’d have to make some significant modifications to get it to work. Might as well start from scratch and make a custom rack back there. Which is why I did it the easy way and mounted it in the basket. No, it’s not elegant, but it’s functional, which is more my camping style.

Agree with you on BB’s, I’m very pleased with mine. Warranty is currently 10 years!

There is another option from Zarcor that works from the inside without opening the door. See @Andrew K post & pics of Ocean Air roller shade at this link. This is the upgrade my wife prefers, it’s on my task list. Ocean Air Roller Shade

I agree GJ, good ideas, I think we are on the same page. I’m also concerned about fan noise, which is why I suggested one or two fans mounted internally. These could be connected to ducting like you mentioned. Ideally, this system would also vent the battery box, keeping it warmer in extreme cold and extreme heat, to avoid BMS cutoff and optimum lithium battery performance. In this link, @NCEagle describes dual systems, both a battery compartment fan and a basement fan. Lithium Powered Vent System @NCEagle’s battery compartment mod uses a 120V duct fan with ducting. I can’t find a post with his basement fan mod, but my guess is that it’s similar and is designed to heat those critical plumbing areas. I’ve been unable to find a 12V duct fan, other than marine bilge blowers, which I worry are too noisy. @Overland proposed a nice battery compartment fan mod (same link) with a quiet fan and plastic ductwork that mounts directly to the fan, with a thermostat. Keep the ideas coming. I’m still looking for the ideal system before I cut any holes!