SeaDawg

Awesome! Well, awesome job by you, figuring it all out. That was a real mess in there... Thanks for letting us know your results. Muppy, sorry I didn't get back to you yesterday, as I had a super busy day. By the time I looked back, Dave S had already given you the link. Now, hopefully, you'll get to do some camping before the campgrounds shut down for winter! Sherry

Welcome back. Sounds like you live in a really nice community, with helpful vendors. Glad you got it all straight. ? The part numbers weren't on the invoice, I guess? Back in the day, we'd just get a ticket that said "parts" and a price, but excellent service. Sounds like your store...

I hope the board resolves your problem. Best of luck!

Muppy, I'm really sorry for your issues, but sounds like you have narrowed some possibilities. Here's what I would try. Since you have a big leak on both city or tank ( with pump), I'd start at the pump area. In our older trailer, we can see all the valves and pump clearly. Can you? Since you get leaking water from both sources, I'd first look at valves ( check valve, particularly), . Turn on just the pump. No faucet open. Give it a few minutes. Do you see anything near the pump? Take this slow. Put a paper towel under the connections at the pump. See if it gets spots . If not , try the sink faucet, only. See if you get any dripping. Wait awhile. Look again near the pump. Also, Open up the area under the sink by pulling out the drawers. If nothing there, after several mintes, shut off the kitchen faucet. and try the bath faucet. The good news is, pex lines rarely rupture, even if frozen, by the previous owner. The bad new is, you definitely have a bad leak somewhere. Probably at a valve or visible junction/ connector. Others may have a better idea. This is just mine. I like to follow the water, one step at a time.

Trainman, I'm really sorry to hear of your issue. However, I can think of several reasons to follow up with Oliver and Suburban before ordering a non oem part out of pocket. The first, of course, is the $100, since a new board under warranty would be zero, and I'd rather spend the money on something else. ? Second, using a non oem board could void the rest of your warranty, which, I think with Suburban is 3 years. Not just the one year wrap you get from Oliver. A number of rv appliances have warranties well beyond one year, if maintained. The third... if warranty issues go unreported, to Oliver, and Suburban, they think everything is hunky dory. And, the cycle continues... There are really only two major manufacturers of standard tank six gallon water heaters, both based in the US. Suburban has been around forever, as you know, and they do stand behind their products, installed in rvs made by a great number of manufacturers. Unless something has changed (and I'm unsure, as we now have a Girard tankless), they offer the longer warranty of the two. Atwood, the other, sold out to Dometic, and I believe has a 2 year warranty. As far as being " cheap Chinese" as referenced in another thread on this topic, I'm pretty certain the Suburban is manufactured in Tennessee, USA, where the factory and warehouse employ three to four hundred people. Sure. Some of the components come from offshore. Just like American cars. But that's pretty much the way the world works today. Global economy. Over the last three years, I've seen half a dozen or so posts about suburban water heater issues. At least two were faulty connections, corrected immediately after pickup. Several others were boards. That's a little over 1 per cent failure rate, which I doubt Suburban likes, but it doesn't make them "junk." Honestly, if I were in your shoes, I'd take a step back, pick up the phone tomorrow, and start the warranty process. See how it goes. No one has reported a second failure with a factory replacement board, that I know of. If you do go the Dinosaur board route (which I would only do in an emergency, or after warranty expiration on the unit, but that's me), keep your old board if you ever need warranty service. Any authorized dealer will look at the non oem board, and blame any problem on the board... Just my thoughts, and my personal process with all warranty items, rv, home, or boats. Sherry

We didn't get build sheets in the early days.we got a folder full of manuals. We no longer have the original fiamma. But, i think Pete (bugeyedriver) does. You could pm him. . I would also call factory service. They might just have an old end cap somewhere in the boneyard. Ours discolored around year 5. We pulled them off and painted them with Krylon. Worked for another 4 or so. As i recall, replacement was around 50 bucks.

Zamp also offers a 25 year solar production warranty, similar to quality home systems. It would be nice if they posted initial efficiency ratings, though. I chose US made panels for our home, at a premium over import. I understand your reasoning. We chose Sunpower, however, for the installation we're currently doing on the boat, with Victron controllers and monitors. Primarily for published efficiency ratings. Honestly, you're looking for backup, not primary, as we are for the boat, so definitely go with your comfort zone. A few hundred is a few nights dining out, vs. Unknowns, and ease of plug and play. I will say, Zamp panels are a lot heavier. That's both a plus and minus. The frames on Zamp are beefier. But more to lift and stow. I don't have a dog in the hunt, except looking to the future with my sister who also has a Zamp port installed in her rpod. We installed a Furrion port in our Oliver, so a different set of issues. Reminds me of VHS vs BETA, duking it out in the vcr world. When I was still using reel to reel, and a remote monitor... lol.

Chris, guess you're on your way home. Don't know where you are in BC, but if you are near Boya Lake, it's one of our top ten campsites anywhere, if you can snag one of the many lakeside spots. No more free firewood, since you're out of the Yukon, but beautiful views. Bears often sighted along the hikes, when we've been there, but I've not seen evidence in the very well managed campground. No hookups. Sometimes no water, some had to go to a community spring spout down the road. But, so worth it. What's up with the furnace? Resistive heat, as in the heat strip, usually draws a lot of amps. I don't think it's user error, just too much power for your generator. Hence, the overload. Try again when you get to a place with a 30 amp connection. Which may very well be when you are in the States again. You guys are troopers! What a trip full of memories. Sherry

Last year, or maybe the year before, we bought a portable weBoost to test on our mountain property. It was simple. Plug into the 12v cigarette lighter outlet, put the antenna outside through the window. Portable means kind of "deploy every time." Unfortunately. we had zero tmobile signal, anywhere, when I did scans with our tmobile devices, so I returned it. You have to have some very weak signal to boost.... Our Verizon devices already worked fine. But, we did get a boost on the Verizon. That's why we carry devices from two carriers when we travel. Usually, if there's any signal at all, either tmobile or Verizon can connect. Sherry

The zamp port is installed on trailers and motorhomes across many brands. Lots of people use Renogy and other brands of panels with the zamp port. And, because of the widespread use of the Zamp port, there's a lot of choice out there in adaptors and cables to make other less expensive options work. Renogy may even sell an adaptor, themselves. As long as the panel has mc4 connectors on the back, you should be able to buy a 10 ft cable with zamp end, or a cable and connector, for I'm estimating $25 to $50. You could call Renogy about the specific unit you want.. there are four options in John's link above. And, Renogy is running a labor day sale right now, as well. Yesterday, I saw a 20 per cent off coupon code for first time checkout with google express when I looked briefly at the renogy site.. . Sherry

We haven't had the traditional water heater for a long time, but I remember ours had a switch outside to change from gas to electric. It wasn't automatic. But our water heater was a 2008 model... Just a thought.

Nan, please stay safe. This is one of the biggest storms I've seen in over 40 years on the coast. The radar is truly astounding. Right now, my prayers are out for the people in the Bahamas as Dorian literally crawls across. Spaghetti models are still everywhere for future path. We prepared, not for naught, even though I'm now confident that here in the FL west coast we'll get just some rain bands and some wind, and the king tides here will lessen tomorrow. it's early September, and there's usually more activity for us in Florida, later in the month . I hope you will prepare too. Sometime soon, we will have a more concise path prediction.

You'd probably be best off with a waterproof controller on the panel , and some decent length of wire to get the Renogy suitcase into tbe sun. The referenced Renogy is really an add-on panel, or could be standalone, but looks like it comes with a foot or so of wire, and alligator clips to attach to a battery. Since you have a port installed, you need a controller, a length of cord, a connector that fits the Zamp, which I believe is sae, but wired reversed from normal polarity, to make it "zamp proprietary." Someone with a zamp port can help more here, as we wired a furrion port, which is yet a different connector. There is a converter on amazon to convert sae to zamp port, for probably 25 dollars. I remember looking at it months ago for my sister, but don't quote me. If you buy the panels only, probably just as easy to wire everything up originally to meet your Zamp port requirements. Here's an older thread which will either help, or confuse you more. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/additional-100w-suitcase/ Sherry

There is a 2017 with low miles thats probably still for sale, 3 hours north of you in albequerque, if you check the Classifieds. No solar, but other extras. As far as delivery vs pickup, most people look at the pickup as a time to learn the trailer and its systems, and look at the trip home as a first adventure. Much depends on your time and availability. Welcome to the forum. Lots of folks here to help. Ask away. Sherry

Roguebooks, do you have a controller, or just the zamp port with a fuse? The unit John posted does not have a controller. If you simply have a port, and inline fuse, wired to the battery, you need a controller, also. That's the way most "solar ready" options are wired. If so, Click through the options in John's post for a suitcase INCLUDING controller. It's a bit more. Sherry

And, there's another spring park I haven't seen yet. Gilchrist blue springs, not far from Gainesville, our newest state park. If you do check it out, let us know. https://www.onlyinyourstate.com/florida/new-state-park-fl/ Sherry

Blue Springs is another of our beautiful parks. If you get the chance, read Bill Belleville's essay, "Diving into the Heart of a Poem," before you visit. Belleville is a Florida environmental nonfiction writer (and a lover of woods and water, like most of us.). You should be able to find it in a few books at the library. I used to have an online copy. Not anymore. I've never been to Colt Creek, but you're close to a lot of cool things in Florida-- Zhills skydiving, Bok Tower Gardens in pretty Lake Wales (fabulous quiet day), Frank Lloyd Wright architecture at Florida Southern college. Lakeland has a really nice downtown with some great local restaurants, and the Johnson family restaurants in Plant City are real Southern cooking. Johnson BBQ is quite good, but I'm partial to lunch at Fred's Market. Especially if you like southern vegetables... collard greens, summer squash, excellent beans, and the trout on the buffet is surprisingly good. I'm not totally a chicken or catfish fan, but those are good too. It's always packed with locals, dirt parking lot, for the most part. Go in the truck. No place for the trailer, really. Edited ... exit 21, for 39 Sherry

Andrew, I will look forward to your comments if you rent the Alto. Love the light, and the light weight, don't love the width and clearance. And dislike the weird doorless/ curtained bathroom, though maybe that has changed. After 11 years in a shorty Elite, I would tell you we wouldn't likely change. Would we love a true queen? Sure. But your other choices are all crawlover beds, as well. Love the way it tracks directly in the path of the truck. We don't "offroad", but certainly not strangers to off pavement. We are happy to camp in the woods, without services, most of the time. As far as the escape, we deliver Elkhart made rvs to Alaska from time to time. I'm developing an allergy to brown... brown cabinets, brown upholstery, brown floors... I guess it hides dirt. But, there are many happy owners, nonetheless. And, I'm pretty sure the Canadian product is better than Elkhart. Good luck in your search. We're here for questions about the Ollies Sherry

When we had the Suburban, our anode lasted four or five years. I chalked it up to never using the heater on electricity, just gas. Maybe it was due also to filtered water. Idk. On boats, anodes (zincs) are usually replced when half eaten. Cheap insurance. Truly, if we still had a Suburban, I don't think I'd run one down as low as the suburban diagram shows, as most of us only drain that tank once a year, for winterization. For the $10 or so on Amazon, I'd replace it at around half. Just me. It IS very important to inspect the anode. Thanks for the reminder, John. Sherry

The maxxfan remote is line of sight, IR. Whether it would work with a harmony or not, I don't know, as we don't have that sophistication level in our fan. It's get out of bed, manual only adjustment. Our trailer was built in 2008. ? Our FanTastic fan will shut on and off, based on a temp scale, and close when it rains, based on a sensor, which was pretty advanced back in the day... We do have a Harmony remote at home. Pretty sure it's IR, also. But we just use it for tv, stereo, etc in the family room. Good idea about universal remote. Let us know if you decide to try, and how it works for you. Sherry Sherry

Scentfree, did you order the solar panel option? Do you plan to do a lot of off grid camping? I'm guessing Oliver still installs the Seelevel battery guage, which, though basic, is way better than most rvs we've delivered, which have little lights on a panel for full, 3/4, 1/2, etc. If you don't have solar, and you camp most of the time with hookups, it may be all you need. Understanding that anytime you are charging, as in, plugged in, the monitor will probably show something like 13.2 or 13.4 , because it's reading the power coming into the battery from the charger. Conversely, when you're consuming a lot of power, when the furnace fan kicks in, for example, you'll see a sudden drop in the reading. It takes about 15 minutes to a half hour without load or charging for the battery to settle down, and then you'll see a reading that's closer to true. It's pretty close most of the time, as I occasionally check our seelevel against our BlueSky monitor installed with our solar. Oliver installs a Zamp solar package now, and I think their monitor is quite basic, and some have opted to replace it, though it's also quite adequate for others. I didn't see stellar reviews on the battery monitor you're looking at. There are a lot more choices out there today than when Chris wrote the original post in 2008. I'm looking for one now as a birthday gift for my sister, as her Rpod has no battery monitor, whatsoever... They have to take a reading with a multimeter at the battery, which is a real royal pain. I came across a few that required no wiring, just plugged into a 12volt cigarette type socket. Then I discovered her Rpod didn't even have a 12v socket, just 110 outlets. Oy. We camped without power, and without solar, for six months with the Seelevel guage and a little generator. It can be done. The more expensive monitors just give you a lot more information on what you are consuming, and battery status, in real time, which is extremely helpful if you mostly boondock, as we do. Sherry

Well, Oliver modified something to make the convection microwave fit. I can't say whether the factory would swap out 3way for dc electric fridge, but it sure wouldn't hurt to ask. We love ours. Novakool is one brand. Ours is a truckfridge, made by Indel. I know if at least one other Indel, an Isotherm, in an Oliver. The more people who ask, the more likely the change will be considered, imo.. Do you plan to camp mostly with hookups? To run our electric fridge, we added a 100 watt portable panel to supplement our 200 watts of fixed solar. Sherry

Frankly, we've never tried to use a filter, refilling the tank with tbe pump. We filter the water that goes into our clean containers, and consider it done. Sherry

Bugeyedriver has camped there. He said it was nice, as I recall. Maybe he'll see this and chime in. Sherry

A few of us have swapped out the 3way fridge for 12v danfoss/ secop type compressor fridges. Since the compressor is much smaller than the cooling units on the 3ways, you can pick up another .5 to maybe even 2 cubic ft of fridge space, in the same footprint. This holds food for a week or two for us. We use a cooler for extra beverages. I don't think the factory is doing electric fridges, yet. We have an original shorty Legacy, 2008. We removed the unused microwave, and built a big storage compartment instead, which hold a good week or two of drygoods for us. If I ever find an electric drawer freezer that could replace a drawer, or possibly even the former microwave cabinet, I might do that. Haven't found anything for our dimensions, but might be something out there for the bigger EII. The drawer units are much more expensive, though, than the more standard reachins. A dropin induction would be really nice for many people, and probably a possible retrofit. I'm not sure, as we don't have the battery power ( yet), to use induction for cooking, and we don't often camp where we can plug in. rv induction cooktops are 110, not 220 like home builtins, so could be kind of slow compared to what you are used to, if you have an induction range at home, particularly if you use both burners at once. A few people carry a single induction burner, along with the propane cooktop. Sherry