Ronbrink

There is a new post and a video in said forum of interest; in short, more corrections to misinformation. Anyone considering a Gree (Eco Cool/Atmos 4.4) product should take time to read/watch the very pertinent information and discussions provided therein. I have learned nothing that would change my mind about purchasing an Atmos 4.4, looking forward to my pending delivery and details on your install.

@rideadeuce, thanks for the update on the other owner’s status. In one of the videos viewed, it was stated that a temp could be set and cold/heat would maintain it. There has been some misinformation given before that proved not to be true or at least not fully understood/conveyed. Good luck with the install. SDG has done a good job on video taping various installs, any chance your Oliver install will be similarly documented?

I used 4AWG cable for my DC-DC install, bought 50’ red+, 50’ black-.

I’m glad I part my hair down the middle!

It is my understanding based on reads that one setting is made, wherein the unit will maintain that set temp as cold or heat is needed. Also looking forward to the outcome of @rideadeuce’s install and first impressions, as well. I lost contact with another owner on FB that made the first purchase of an Atmos 4.4 for his Oliver. I would think that install has been completed by now, but no subsequent report to date.

It is recommended to use 1/0 pure copper cables when installing a high output alternator, in addition to keeping all stock ground wires. Most manufacturers offer a ‘Big 3 Wiring Kit’, but I made one up with an Amazon order from the WindyNation store. This also includes upgrading the stock grounding cable from the battery to engine block (in my application) to 1/0, as well.

From viewing the above video, the Victron Quattro is the only inverter said to have a built-in ATS. Just passing on what I heard, however should be verified.

The stabilizer jacks well exceed their intended use; but do require special attention as to not over extend/retract, which can cause a fuse to blow and/or gear head damage. Additionally, one should routinely check the jack mounts for loose hardware and ensure they are examined as part of the departure checklist.

Many have commented over the years on the use of the stabilizer jacks to lift the trailer enough to change a flat tire, well exceeding one or two inches of lift. However, from a safety aspect the trailer should always be connected to a TV when doing so and never ever have any part of your person under the trailer during the process. That said, I feel comfortable using the jacks to further tweak the level side-to-side, but only after utilizing some kind of leveling blocks or wedges first, thus minimizing the degree of actual jack lift. Once the leveling task is achieved, wheel chocks/wedges are placed to lessen any movement when disconnecting the TV.

There are a few other manufacturers of quality high output alternators, some if not all provide custom builds.

You may want to consider replacing the stock alternator with a high output unit. I started running into trouble when I swapped out the Renogy 20A DC-DC for a 40A, same brand. At idle, the Renogy was only providing around 25 amps and the TV battery was not being properly maintained. When using the A/C via inverter during brief stops, I generally keep the TV running so the DC-DC can augment the power consumption of the A/C; this has proven to be detrimental to the vehicles charging system! Also, I have issue in stop and go traffic when transiting cities. When running at speed, I get full charger output, but the alternator struggles to keep the TV’s battery appropriately charged. I recently purchased a 320A alternator (at high rpm) to replace the stock 165A, which produces 200 amps at idle; awaiting delivery of supplies needed for the install.

If ever the times comes, I would consider having mine powder coated.

👍 Their Oil-Based is the best for rust prevention and adhesion, based on my experiences! Next up, Rust-Oleum Professional spray cans.

Please add to your list: Ron and Brooxie Brinkley, Hull #579, Hull Name My COW, Site #227. Thanks

I am familiar with the small terminal block (“junction”) you are referring to, mine uses spade connectors to make power wire connections to the Norcold’s power box (seen with the white and yellow labels in pic). In my install, I disconnected the two power fed lines Oliver routed (10 AWG) into the lower exterior fridge compartment, being the two wires shown wrapped in electrical tape. Rather than cutting these wires to make a splice, I choose to strip a 1/4” length of insulation off each, whereby the wire strands could be separated enough to loop 6” pieces of wire (red +/yellow-) through, that also had insulation removed (5/8”) at its’ midpoint. Once inserted, these wires were simply folded in half, then twisted to join at the bare wire junctures and subsequently soldered, heat-shrink treated and taped. Then these two added power leads were respectively connected to the control panel and fan wires via quick-connect terminal crimp fittings. I did however, have to splice a short piece of larger gauge wire onto the control panel wire ends because they were too small for the QC fittings used. The 14 AWG wire you have should be of sufficient size for your fan mod.

@SeaDawg, I’m liken’ my 3-way Norcold more and more!

I cannot provide an answer since the Oliver has not been used since this mod. I did however, want easy access to the control panel from the inside, thus the upper cabinet install. I have read where some leave their’s On continuously in Auto mode, I plan to have it turned Off when in storage. Never attempted a link, but can provide a pic of a post you can search. If you haven’t seen, It is very informative and discusses use of a switch at the entry panel, as well as user impressions and comments.

I have is a blank where that switch would typically go. That said, one could add a switch to serve purpose of powering the fans and control panel. However, the control panel acts as a switch in similar manner.

I recently installed the Beech Lane dual fans and was able to run wires from the interior cabinet, above the microwave/Norcold, down and behind both units for the fan control panel/harness and power connections in the upper and lower exterior vent/cover areas, respectively. Access for fishing the wires required folding back the cabinet’s protective mat liner, removing the round access port cover and detaching the AC outlet box (after turning power off at the breaker) that the microwave plugs into, as well as drilling a hole (see pics). Additionally, I had to remove the foil tape and angled aluminum plate that occurs behind the upper exterior vent/cover to enable the wire fishing process; specifically, the fiberglass divide between the two units inhibits passage wherein a visual and physical interaction may be necessary. Regarding your wall switch, if you could get 12V power of appropriate gauge wire to it, then power wires would not have to be fished down to the lower reaches of the fridge for connection. Steps taken in prep to fish wires. There was a passageway found inside the outlet cutout to the lower right, other side of the interior cabinet wall from the microwave power cord, leading to the upper exterior vent/cover area Control panel wires prepped for fishing. Wire loom installed during stages of fish process. Routing completed to upper exterior vent/cover area. Interior cabinet buttoned up! Quick connects used at 12V power connections.

To be clear, the thumb lever on the LockNLube coupler, affixed to your grease gun, will be depressed when attaching the 90° extension to ensure the two components are properly joined; then the adjustable collar at the end of said extension is turned one way to tighten its’ jaws to hold onto the zerk for a good seal and the other way to loosen the jaws for removal from the zerk when done. Many owners simply replace the stock zerks with 45° and/or 90° angled ones to eliminate the need of the adjustable extension.

My previous was pertaining to use of the primary coupler with the thump lever, but since you are using the 90° adapter one must turn the adjustable collar that goes over the zerk to lock it in place and then turn in the opposite direction for ease of removal.

Are you depressing the thumb lever to open up the four jaws? Upon release the coupler should be locked onto the zerk, and should not leak or come off until the lever is depressed again to remove.

I lowered the LBCO from 12.1V to 11.5V and that did indeed allow extended use of the A/C via inverter without fear of a sysrem shutdown, That said, I am currently conducting ‘hard reboot’ of my Xantrex 2000W Freedom XC in hopes of resolve of my “inverter misperceives DC voltage” issue. Thanks for your post, definitely an effective “workaround” and solution you presented,

I’m beginning to think there is something wrong with this picture! Specifically, the divide between the Xantrex remote panel’s 12.3V reading and the VictronConnect SmartShunt reading of 12.86V; both taken within seconds of each other while under load running the A/C via inverter. I’ve recently had issue with system shutdown when the Xantrex threshold of 12.1V (recommended setting for Xantrex #02, LBCO Voltage, per Oliver for LFPs), even though my SOC was in the low 70s percentile. I have successfully been able to run the A/C up to two hours in duration without issue, but something seems to have changed. Upon searching the forum, I found where another owner reported a 0.5V differential and community consensus indicated that was NOT a good thing! As I recall, action taken was a hard reboot of the inverter involving total isolation by disconnecting the 12V cables for 3 days, which was reported to rectify said discrepancy. As of yesterday, a total reboot was instigated in hope of resolve. Your thoughts regarding this matter would be greatly appreciated, thanks!