Ronbrink

That’s what I did, self installed a 30A for the Oliver and 50A for my Son’s RV when he visited.

I use Adams Mega Foam with an MTM Hydro foam cannon and a CarCarez Long Handle Feathered Bristle Angled Scrub Brush for a quick and easy clean!

True that, but not very much! Added benefit of the on-board air pump: each time the ignition is turned ON a few seconds of inflation is initiated to bring the bags up to the set pressure. Regardless of whether the vehicle is a daily driver or infrequently used, when the ignition is engaged the lost pressure is immediately restored. However, if wired to a constant 12V circuit and left unattended for a period of time the starter battery will be drained and possibly damaged in time. No bueno!

This GMC Savana 2500 conversion van owner is getting ready to have Bilstein 4600’s installed front and rear. I wished the 5100 Series was offered for my make and model. I plan to have a shop install the front shocks due to the heavy coil springs, given a quote of $180; I can manage the rear installs.

Excellent points! I still carry a small generator and at times two, especially when in hurricane evacuation mode! Both are dual fuel models and mostly run on propane; the smaller DuroMax XP2200EH exclusively on propane, the larger Westinghouse iGen4500DF on gasoline, as needed during said evacs for multi-day continuous runs, otherwise propane when camping. Since my TV change from a pickup truck to a cargo van, I no longer carry the 4500 routinely as before 1) the 2200 meets my needs to run the air conditioner during nights when needed, 2) it was primarily a backup when leisure traveling/camping, but no longer considered a necessity, 3) it occupies space, adds weight and has a slight smell of gasoline, which wasn’t a problem in the truck bed, but now is since the van’s cargo bay is within, and 4) there’s comfort in knowing I can always run the Atmos on inverter as a backup for a/c!

I installed an Air Lift system on both my former Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 and current GMC Savana 2500 TVs for the primary purpose of reducing squat when fully loaded and trailering. The system will also compensate for uneven weight distribution in the TV cargo bay from side-to-side. The remote control for the onboard air pump is a great feature for ease of adjustment, based on situational needs; in general, 25psi for daily driving and 35psi when trailering with the Silverado. I will determine like settings for the newer Savana with more use. The trailering psi provides for the optimum ball height specified by Oliver, 23.5” as I recall. It is important to wire these systems to operate only in the keyed ignition ON position, since pressures are affected by temperature variances and minor seepage overtime; otherwise the starter battery could be compromised! As a bonus to this system, when dumping the waste tanks the front of the Oliver can be lifted to speedup the process and ensure a complete dump. There have been times when this is necessary due to poorly designed dump stations or an awkward approach. It is a fact that airbags will not increase vehicle load or tow capacities, but based on my experiences they do improve overall handling, especially when towing. That said, I never felt the need for the Anderson WDH. You can pan below to view my post titled ‘2019 GMC Savana 2500 Cargo Van’ and dated October 24, 2024, wherein there is some discussion on the Air Lift install.

I installed GasStop valves on each tank, which has an integral purging feature. Also great for use with gas grills, fire pits, etc., when auxiliary lines are connected to a spare tank or directly to one of the Oliver tanks

Yeah, opening the cylinder valve too fast can trigger a safety feature inside the tank; specifically an ‘excess flow valve’, at least as best I understand it.

I installed a Dreiha Atmos 4.4 from SDG; 15K AC/12K Heat 120V. I featured my self-install in a post in Ollie Modifications titled ‘Dreiha Atmos 4.4 Home Install’, September 18, 2024. Also checkout @rideadeuce’s install and post titled ‘Dreiha Atmos 4.4 Installed by SDG’, July 17, 2024.

If a tank valve is opened too quickly the flow of gas can be shut down. Turn the valve slowly at first, but only enough for gas to begin to flow; then wait several seconds before turning the valve fully open. It is always good practice to purge the lines as @Rolind suggests in the manner described.

You are not alone; some owners bothered more than others, but your assessment is spot on!

To your point, I weave a metal cable through the tank handles as further deterrent/securement; the looped ends are on the center threaded stock.

That is my understanding, as well. Unfortunately my remote is not the bluetooth model and failed efforts to restore communication manually leaves it useless for the On/Off function. I resort to leaving the inverter button in the On position full time without further issue.

At home, I often use a propane insect fogger. For example:

The butane cartridges last a long time, so not a problem with me. I only use my lanterns as a light source, as needed, and not when combating biting pests; my headlights serve me better. As a cost saving measure I reuse the pads, they last a long time by recharging with a few drops of Pyrethrin Garden Insect Spray Concentrate; refresh as needed. I find a Thermacell effective within the 10’ radius they claim to protect, that area is extended with multiple, strategically placed units. Positioning them upwind increases their effectiveness. If dead calm, I set up a fan to help distribute the scent. I too am a ‘mosquito magnet’, has something to do with my O+ blood type! I spent most of my professional life out-of-doors in very harsh environments, including marshes, wetlands, bottomland hardwood forests, inland and coastal waters, and rainforests of Brazil for extensive periods of time both days and nights with a Thermacell strapped to my waist or backpack, they work!

The issue I read about most pertains to a pedestal outlet found to be wired incorrectly. This could cause damage to the RV power cable and MORE! Many owners routinely verify with a tester before plugging in, whether 30A or 50A. I carry a 50A to 30A power cord adapter for use if the 30A outlet fails a test and have to resort to the 50A outlet to connect shore power to the Oliver; proved useful on two occasions! Also, there may be times when a CG only has available sites with 50A service; once again said adapter was put to good use.

Welcome fellow Aggie!

I’m not totally convinced based on her demonstrations. The specific gravity of hydrocarbons is lower than that of water and thus, will float on top of water. However, with enough agitation a hydrocarbon will emulsify with water. Had she aggressively agitated all tests in like manner the results would have likely been similar. Neither product will prevent condensate from developing in ethanol gasoline due to its affinity for water. This is not so with non-ethanol blends and the reason she recommended its use as a preventative, especially in small engines. That said, non-ethanol blends are generally not as available and more costly, so the convenient ‘go-to’ is ethanol. I personally would not use a fuel additive for moisture control in a daily driver where fresh fuel is regularly added. Water is a natural byproduct of combustion and expelled in exhaust, we’ve all seen it dripping out our tailpipes. However, other fuel additive types can be beneficial to boost octane, clean injectors and lubricate upper cylinders. Here’s my take on the subject: for long term storage, whether in a tank (vehicle or small engine) or container, any additive to stabilize the fuel and prevent/deter degradation is a good idea.

Actually, I too had a small pressure regulator supplied upon delivery as @John and Debbie described, and it does look very similar to the back-flow preventer you mentioned. I used it a few times and still carry it as backup, but reverted to the Valterra adjustable regulator with a gauge. The supplied regulator is similar or same as this:

Understood, I was simply reinforcing your thoughts about having an on/off switch under hood and sharing an alternative to others on the matter. Originally, I installed a circuit breaker fuse with manual reset to serve as an on/off switch as well, but added engine temps during extreme heat conditions would cause it to trip. No bueno! I replaced it with an ANL fuse holder/60A fuse for cable protection and the toggle switch for manual on/off capability; again, information for those that may not be in the know.

Admin, please remove this, I inadvertently made a duplicate post. Thanks

You may recall, I installed a solenoid to activate power to the DC-DC cables leading to my rear bumper-mounted Anderson when the motor is running and thus, no power when off. That said, I also do not want these cables powered while running and not trailering, unless the Anderson is needed for others purposes like the VIAIR or an alternative Dometic fridge/freezer power source. Therefore, I installed a toggle switch for the solenoid trigger wire, which leads into the van interior for convenient toggle activation, as needed.

Recently completed the cable transfer from my former TV to the Savana van for the DC-DC setup. On the former, the 7-pin outlet was well protected on the bumper next to the license plate and at the recess designed for a ball hitch mount, the receiver hitch being below the bumper. The van however, came stock with the trailer cable connections affixed to the receiver hitch cross beam, underneath the bumper. That being, I mounted the DC-DC Anderson connection likewise. My hope is the rather robust receiver hitch cross beam will serve as a skid plate and protect said connections!

I got one for myself at that price, as well, along with a multimeter to replace one that went kaputt!

Looking forward to your forthcoming post on the install! A couple of things that may or may not be specific to my Renogy DC-DC charger regarding installation: 1) Because I choose to mount the charger remotely inside the Oliver and not in the TV, I decided it best to run a negative cable from the starter battery, rather than the typical ground-to-chassis as done in some instances when separate battery banks share a mutual grounding, like a motorhome for instance. I know when a trailer is hitched to a vehicle grounding occurs, but I find no comfort that it constitutes the adequate grounding necessary to fully safeguard the system; 2) the Renogy manual specifies use of ANL fuses with their systems; and 3) since the charger is in the trailer, use of the D+ ignition wire was not utilized and thus, the solenoid install serves the same purpose. I hope this provides a better understanding of actions taken in my install. I have read where others, for reasons unknown, are not getting the rated amperage from their units. I am pleased to report that is not the case in my situation!