Ronbrink

The Barker jacks typically used by Oliver are rated at 3,000 lbs., specifically model VIP-3000.

There is a chance the wall-mounted remote button is not working, they can fail which happened with mine. If your remote is the BT model, there is a procedure to supposedly restore communication and use of the remote button. Mine is not BT and the fix is a replacement remote. I decided to use the button on the inverter to operate and just leave it on. Regardless of the remote model, the buttons will have the same operating positions as the inverter.

The only drying we do inside the Oliver is our bath towels, bath door closed and vent fan on. Same practice if we use the wet bath, but try to use park baths if found clean and well maintained.

My temporary fix is working well enough and may tweak a bit for a more permanent solution, since parts are not readily available.

Not only that, ethanol blends are hydrophilic and have an affinity to absorbing moisture, thus causing condensate water in a tank.

Yes, I took the ball chain off the stock black ones and screwed onto these Igloo caps. They won’t screw onto the Eleys, rather press on instead.

12,000# working capacity, 46,000# breaking capacity per Amazon’s description. Good enough for me!

Found a brand that uses a cotter pin to secure the connecting rod, any thoughts?

I have two dual fuel generators and generally only run them on propane. The exception would be during hurricane evacuations when our Oliver becomes an escape pod; it is more cost effective to run the Westinghouse 4500W on gasoline for continuous 24-hour durations for several days. Run time is 16 hours on a tank of gas with a/c on. I always carry two WAVIAN (NATO-style) jerrycans, one with ethanol gasoline for the TV and other with non-ethanol for the generator(s), as needed. I have made use of these fuel reserves on several occasions when the TV’s low fuel indicator light comes on; yep, that happens, drives my wife nuts! My SOP is to routinely rotate said fuels rather than stabilize with an additive. Regarding the jerrycans, I have never smelled any fumes, even when enclosed under cap in my former TV and currently inside our Savana van. To your point however, gasoline or any residue in a generator fuel system will reek, so another practice is to run the carb dry, drain the tank and throughly air it out, as necessary. Fuel transfer, especially into a vehicle, can be cumbersome and messy, but I resolved both issues with a portable rechargeable pump. Simply set the gas can on the ground, deploy the pump/hose, flip the switch, easy-peasy! Better yet, once done I let it air out before stowing away in a small Pelican Case to conceal any residual odor. I have my generators set up to either run directly from a dedicated propane tank or utilizing the Oliver’s QC ports. By dedicated, I mean either a spare propane tank carried in the TV or one of the trailer-mounted tanks, in which case the regulator hose would be disconnected. In this instance, remote regulators (primary and secondary) would be utilized. However, if connected to one of the Oliver LP ports, only the secondary regulator comes into play. I modified one of the generator supplied regulators with QC fittings between the two sections, thus enabling multiple usages. Use of secondary regulator only when running from the Oliver QC port. Use of both primary and secondary regulators when running from a dedicated propane tank. I installed GasStop automatic shut-off safety devices on all tanks, great for gauging, as well as priming! Note the propane hose draped over the tank housing at bottom pic. Aforementioned propane hose is tapped into the forward QC port for better access. I didn’t like having to get down on my knees to hookup. This is a 10’ hose extension. Extension hose stowed on top of tank and can be deployed via the screw port for added convenience. This hose also serves use of my fire pit.

Had the same experience, but soon realized the Truma AquaGo to be the culprit, as @Frank C explained. I have since been turning off the AquaGo, as @Steve Morris suggests and reasons given. However, because I only turn the unit on when needed and not concerned with maintaining constant hot water, I find ECO mode better suited to my needs. That said, my shower handle has a trickle feature, which keeps the burner engaged when taking a Navy shower.

Sorry, I do not. Would be good to capture that value at some point in time.

According to the SoftStartRV website, they only provide two models, which leads me to believe they are universal in application and thus, not brand specific. Thanks for providing pertinent information regarding Truma’s business practices, much appreciated!

It’s my understanding the ‘kit’ is installed to make the single fuel (gasoline) Honda into a dual fuel generator (gasoline/propane).

Got me to think’n this early morning, went to Truma’s website and copied the following: Anyone could install a SoftStartRV on an Aventa, but voiding a warranty would be a major concern, if true. At first, Truma claimed their units didn’t need a soft start/easy start device, but soon changed their view regarding that issue.

I followed another owner’s lead and purchased a small water pump to transfer water directly into the FRESH WATER CONNECTION port, no valve reconfiguration involved!

DC-DC charger is a great alternative!

SoftStartRV units are readily available and claim universal fit, see attached. They can be purchased and self-installed on a Truma, but It is possible such could void their warranty. Perhaps someone in the know will chime in with a definitive answer.

That would explain things, thanks for the catch! At 48#, not bad for a 4000W dual fuel; my DuraMax 2200W dual fuel comes in about the same weight and doesn’t have the 30A outlet!

I read gasoline or diesel, no mention of propane.

Alternate mounting of said ports from the aforementioned screenshot. Holes drilled (3/8” front, 5/16” rear) through the hitch receiver tube were made for adequate securement of these Schrader Valves once exposed metal was painted and allowed to cure.

A change in vehicle type, but not in looks; truck vs van. 2012 Chevrolet 1500 Silverado 4x4, 144” wheelbase. 2019 GMC 2500 Savana Cargo Van, 135” wheelbase.

I would consider a shutoff valve with a drain vent like this SharkBite; available in 1/2 and 3/4”.

I drove an 18-wheeler for six months helping a friend with his transport business, some of which while hauling grain up through Palo Duro Canyon in north Texas and into Oklahoma. Saw many a truck runaway ramp and quickly appreciated their purpose. These ‘big-rigs’ have air brakes which can fail if applied too often on extensive down hill slopes; a situation wherein air demand exceeds the capability of the onboard compressed air supply or even a malfunction to the air system (compressor, air tank, air lines) itself. These off ramp structures are comprised of a deep bed of sand or gravel, an effective method of safely slowing heavy vehicles like trucks and even buses to a stop. The sign displayed in @jd1923’s pic reads ‘RUNAWAY VEHICLES ONLY’, guess that includes an Oliver TV, as well. Safe travels!

Both of my GM TVs (Chevy Silverado 1500 and GMC Savana 2500) are gassers equipped with the Tow/Haul feature; selects a lower gear for better engine braking effect and optimizes transmission shifting. They also have Manual mode, especially beneficial when going uphill or down a steep slope. I always engage Tow/Haul when trailering the Oliver and have used the Manual mode on occasion with the Silverado when towing in mountainous areas, but nothing too extreme; works great in lessening actual use of the vehicle’s brakes to ‘slow the go’! Something I noticed different with the Savana in the hills encountered on our most recent travel into Texas Hill Country, was the very apparent and effective downshifting of its 6-speed transmission when slowing for a stop, as well as down grade at speed. Could be that it is basically a commercial vehicle designed for carrying and handling heavy loads under adverse conditions. The hefty front and rear disc brakes, 12.8” and 13” rotors respectively, was another bonus; I rarely had to manually engage the brake controller, especially for quick stops at sudden traffic light changes. Because my wife has ‘extreme anxiety’ with thought of “those cliffside roads” that @jd1923 mentioned, I may never experience his described encounter; but then our GPS Navigation has taken us down many a path of uncertainty, don’t ya know!

Well, upon removal of the AIR LIFT pump assembly from the Silverado a few days ago, I realized that system would require a reconfiguration to better serve the selected Savana mounting position. Yesterday said pump and new airline hoses were installed. Today the wiring harness will be routed to the engine bay to complete this project. BTW, the original AIR LIFT air springs remain on the Silverado and can be individually inflated with the Schrader Valve terminated supply airlines left in place. Driver’s side airbag at 0 psi; 5 psi minimum upon install completion, as recommended to prevent damage. AIR LIFT pump assembly readied for install. Pump assembly with airlines, wiring harness and remote control. Pump assembly securely mounted atop the trailer hitch receiver. Once the wiring harness is connected, care will be taken to further protect with wiring loom and mounting straps tidied up. Potential location on backup fill ports in the event of a pump failure (screenshot taken from a YT video).