Ronbrink

As expressed by others, it’s really a matter if choice. Since I don’t have solar, the DC-DC allows for charging while underway. Since upgrading to LFPs and the ability to run the air conditioner on the battery bank, it was important to me to be able to maintain adequate SOC following travel breaks during meals, rests and such while drawing down the batteries for this added comfort. Granted, sitting idle just to charge a battery bank is not practical, and disconnecting the TVs charging wire in the seven pin connector is best since the alternator’s charging profile is not suitable for lithiums.

Here’s my adaptation in mounting the two Sirocco ll fans back in 2020 shortly after our OLEll purchase. By chance, my setup has worked really well, thus far! Rather than a permanent mount and hardwiring, I used Velcro for attachment and installed ports in the fan base for a detachable power cable. The fans and cables are stowed in the attic when not in use and can be deployed, as needed. The two primary locations are above each bed and an alternate in the galley to direct air flow toward the dinette. I like that the fans are multi-directional both forward and downward facing. The white Velcro is not very noticeable at the three attachment points and excess cable is simply wrapped around the base for a clean appearance.

Aft-mounted jet fuel fired turbine engine to enable use of the Dreiha Atmos 4.4 in Turbo Mode, as well as improved fuel efficiency when underway!

We hang a couple of laundry bags (his/hers) in the rear closet void; no interference with hanging clothes. They have backpack type straps for hauling into the house.

Actually, the 60A Blue Sea (not 100A as illustrated in the product pic) replaced a 60A Optifuse for 12V accessary power. The 300A Optifuse you refer to is likely the breaker for the battery bank to inverter.

That @jd1923 really has it goin’ on with his water and power setups!

Likely MacGyvered adaptations!! Actually, Carefree offers a height adjustable vertical stabilizer that looks universal for all awning types.

That will work or get a small section of PVC clear reinforced braided vinyl tubing. My dedicated hose fits inside a gallon Ziploc bag for ease of storage. Mostly used in the tank sanitation process via the boondocking port, but I also carry two 5-gal collapsible containers if fresh water supply ever runs low. I can see in your application where the longer hose would be necessary.

It would take me two beers to patiently and correctly wind up the Gorilla, being that I would probably fumble it a time or two trying to get the perfect roll and have to start over!

Right that! I’ve seen where support posts are placed at each corner of the awning (which manual awnings already have or variations thereof) and the bottom of the sunshade is anchored. Supposedly this makes for a more stable setup in windy conditions.

Many praise the addition of a DC to DC charger, more is better!

I’m a zero-G guy, carry three for dedicated purposes; freshwater fill, black tank rinse and general wash hoses. I find them easy to roll up and stow; they are very flexible and durable. Each are setup with quick connects and accessories for their respective applications.

I replaced mine with a Blue Seas System breaker, much better quality and no recurring issues.

Aftermarket sunshade kits are readily available for a variety of awning makes and models. One would want to turn off the switched power with use on an auto retract unit.

Humidity is definitely an issue in hot climates, especially when outside relative humidity levels are high. The Oliver’s interior can become muggy feeling if the HVAC is inefficient in removing excess moisture and thus, dehumidifiers are subsequently used with varying degrees of success. Proper ventilation practices can help alleviate this issue, as well as other moisture management measures within.

You had me concerned since I purchased my hammer locks some time ago and just now got around to installing them on the Savana. These have a stout cotter pin for an easy install and removal, if necessary. The rubber boots are a nice feature, but do add thickness to the chain connector link. However my stock chain hooks had good fitment, but the locking hitch pin was a close fit. You may want to consider replacing the chain hooks on your setup in order to make use of the hammer locks.

In preparation for next week’s trip, I thought best to test out our ebikes on the bike rack setup I recently retrofitted on the Savana. All went well and pleased that my vision from behind the steering wheel was even better than with the former TV. The front receiver hitch and bike rack rode solid around a neighborhood excursion. As a reminder, the folding ebikes are transported inside the van when underway to a destination then staged on the QuikrStuff bike rack once in camp. I do drive around with them mounted while inside a CG, to trailheads of proximity or nearby attractions.

Looks like you have the Orion dialed in! Good to see how it and your rooftop solar play together.

@dmtaylor2, you my be on to something! I have zero experience with the Anderson WDH, but have used the lever load binders in the past and still have some at the house if a need arises. I strongly suggest you secure the level arm, for ‘peace of mind’ if nothing else.

Okay thanks! I’m only concerned with the forward-facing dash cam capability and not trying to incorporate a rear camera. Was the “cut in and out” with the dash cam, rear camera or both?

I need to check out the dash cam feature on my Garmin GPS RV785. Anybody have experience with their’s to share?

The Garmin inReach Explorer+ is my ‘kitchen pass’ to travel solo! I wear it on my person, to the extent possible, to ensure it is within reach if needed. Pic of me off-trail in remote West Texas in the heat of summer, daytime temps were 100+° during my stay.

The Garmin inReach service can be suspended when not in use as a cost saving measure, can be used to summon help to others in dire need at no risk of costs for their emergency/medical response, weather forecasts are available, and they offer very reasonable and affordable SAR plans.

I’ve nearly completed Phase1 of the swing rack builds. The rear receiver hitch was removed from the Savana to enable some preliminary modifications, specifically welding reducer inserts in each end of the hitch’s cross tube, drilling holes for locking hitch pins and repositioned Air Lift auxiliary fill lines, and repainting. Once the paint is fully cured the hitch will be reinstalled in readiness for Phase2, actual fabrication of the individual swing racks. Unlike a pickup truck having a dropdown tailgate where a single swing arm would span the width of the vehicle, the van has two rear half doors and thus, separate swing arms for the custom racks. Also, unlike conventional installs where a vehicle’s rear bumper is either modified or replaced to accommodate a swing out carrier hinge, I’m making use of the stock receiver hitch to support the pivot points from below the bumper, whereby avoiding inherent door operation and clearance issues. The receiver hitch, as removed, plus preliminary holes drilled at each end for additional locking hitch pins. Reducers to transition the 3.5” OD square hitch tube to a 2” ID receiver. Reducers welded into hitch tube at each end. Matching .75” holes drilled in hitch tube for use of locking hitch pins to secure pending swing racks. Modified receiver hitch primed. The two hitch tube ends with installed reducers will now serve in like manner as the hitch ball mount receiver with locking pins. Final topcoat of paint applied. Modified receiver hitch ready for installation pending paint cure. Note the two small holes drilled in the support arms next to the voids where the Air Lift Schrader valve fill hoses will be repositioned. And that is it for now!

I made the above comments on April 18th, at which time I played around with the Sleep Mode on the Atmos. Upon departure of these routine visits I always check to be sure everything is turned Off, except for the dehumidifier. Admittedly, there have been a few times after locking up the Oliver and then the COW Barn when I question whether or not the dehumidifier was turned back On, or the closet light and water pump turned Off and thus, back inside to check all again. I recall everything to be in good order so back to lockup and departure. Well, when I went back on April 24th to pay rent I was baffled to see a puddle of water upon entering the COW Barn; my first thought being somehow the roof developed a leak from recent heavy rains. However, when entering the Oliver I felt the cool and comfortable 73° interior and noticed the Atmos’s fan was On, then realized the puddled water was condensate. YIKES, it was SO QUIET I didn’t even realize upon last departure it was still running! Now this isn’t a testament to how wonderful the Atmos is and pleased I am with its performance, but rather that of the Hughes Autoformer I permanently installed. Fact being, the storage facility only provides 15A service and with recent severe storms that device’s surge protection may have prevented damage to my Oliver’s electrical system or even the Atmos. More importantly, upon checking the Autoformer was boosting voltage, which I have observed a few times since the install during storage. This occurs when line input voltage drops to 116 volts or below, wherein the unit’s output is automatically boosted 10% over the input. It is a known fact that insufficient voltage, both spikes and surges, can cause irrepairable damage to sensitive electronics and RV air conditioners, and the primary reason for having this extra layer of protection the Hughes Autoformer provides. There is comfort in knowing that if I inadvertently leave the Atmos On at the COW Barn, given the minimal service, or run it at a CG where service issues may occur that my electrical devices and Oliver are fully protected. ‘Nuff said!