Ronbrink

I had a similar product mounted under a RetraxPRO Tonneau Cover, but ditched them soon after converting to an A.R.E. bed cap. These boxes require a lot of ‘swing’ space for convenient access (as designed) and are very restrictive as to the size of items placed within. Although they can be accessed in place simply by opening the lid, one would have to crawl onto the tailgate to get into it. Honestly, I found them useless when the bed is packed to the tailgate with camping gear and better use of the space they encumbered.

Resurrect indeed, your bed liner, slide and cap are great additions! I carry two Wavian NATO Jerrycans stowed in front of each wheel well; one with spare TV fuel (E85), the other non-ethanol fuel for the gennys (can be used for the TV in a pinch, but more-so for my two duel fuel generators when propane is not the best for given situations). No slide, but note the loft for ample stowage. A portable 100Ah power station is staged behind the driver-side wheel well for use with a Dometic dual zone unit. It is charged via a 200W solar array atop the bed cap. A folding winch hoist is staged behind the passenger-side wheel well for use in handling heavy cargo, as well as the OTT’s 30# propane tanks.

I have the Dometic furnace in my 2020 OLEll. I can’t imagine an extended run length to the other side of the basement would exceed that of the distance to the bath. I didn’t look, but maybe the Truma manual is referencing total combined length limitations. It will be interesting to learn what’s determined when you “really mull it over”!

Just brainstorming here, but if one were to disconnect the duct hose from the aisle grille below the curbside bed and route it over to the outdoor shower components within the street side bed rear hatch, heat may then be sufficient enough in that area, and maybe even the basement, during extreme conditions. The abandoned grille could then be closed off to lessen concerns expressed by some, regarding short cycling of the heater due to that grille’s close proximity to the main furnace return, as well as too much heat at the rear of the cabin. As discussed, additional return vents fore at the bath and/or dinette seat, and aft at the street side bed area would improve air flow within the street side hatches and cabin areas.

I do the same, it’s so convenient and less clutter inside; plus less water in the gray tank. I carry a collapsible wash basin and dish drain in the basement, as well as dish soap and a sponge; a dedicated table is transported in the TV and deployed when setting up camp. The stock shower hose length has not been an issue, but good to know it can be easily extended. Thanks for sharing the mod and reminder to all on use of the outdoor shower in this manner.

I had DT install metal valve stems on all wheels last summer on a return trip from West Texas, had two rubber stem failures (with mounted TPMS devices) likely due to extreme heat at the time (110°+). Upon leaving, I went directly to a nearby Walmart and deflated the tires to 55 psi. That would be my guess.

Thanks for the your very informative reply, much appreciated! However, I have the Cerbo-S GX, which is a less expensive model with limited functionality. I would like to install the VE.Direct Smart Dongle with BT to hopefully be able to monitor the battery bank from the driver’s seat via the app. Despite what I have read (GX devices are not compatible with said Dongle), maybe someone with practical experience can prove that wrong. Then again, maybe Wi-Fi is the ticket! Again thanks!

Curious, have you tried this yet?

Understood, my wife always cringes when I say “you know, I was just thinking”!

As eluded to in a previous post, it is my understanding that the Cerbo GX device is not compatible with said Dongle. Furthermore, the single VE.Direct port on the SmartShunt is encumbered by the VE.Direct cable connected to the Cerbo. Thus, I am still uncertain how to incorporate the Dongle, given my particular setup, if in fact the Cerbo VE.Direct ports cannot be utilized for this specific application. I am not savvy enough to figure this out on my own, so perhaps you or others can further advise if it is even doable. Thanks!

Yet another ‘out of this world of Oliver experience’! Thanks for sharing and clean up the mess, you may not be so lucky next time!

In a pinch, I would have done the same! I didn’t opt for the QC ports, as a cost savings measure at purchase, but was aware that copper gas lines were installed ‘fore’ and ‘aft’ with Oliver builds. Early in ownership, I tapped into the ‘fore’ with a ‘T’ fitting for a regulated extension hose accessible via the screw port, and simply removed a fitted plug on the ‘aft’ line to add a QC valve. However, prior to converting to these convenience gas ports I camped a few times either using the 1# or 20# propane tank. BS supplied regulator in use with 20# tank. Tap into existing regulated line for ‘fore’ QC port. I didn’t want the QC port to exit underneath, as Oliver installs, but rather higher to save my back and other intended use. Short hose extension and QC valve connected to a 10’ extension hose for the ‘fore’ QC port. An elbow’s reach into the port to operate the valve. 10’ extension hose staged atop the tank of proximity to the screw port. The hose is simply routed out of the screw port and attached the another hose extension(s) for use with the BS or fire pit, as well as intended use with a small generator, as needed, positioned either on the trailer tongue or TV tailgate. ‘Aft’ installed QC valve once fitted plug was removed. Adapter for BS QC attachment. BS to the Oliver’s ‘aft’ QC port via a 15’ extension.

Thanks for the detailed response, much appreciated! I read where the Dongle could be connected to most Victron devices, except for GX. My Cerbo has three VE.Direct ports, but if what I read is correct that is not an option. My SmartShunt 500 A only has one VE.Direct port, which will be encumbered with the Cerbo cable connection when installed. I have a Renogy DC-DC. I think I may have a problem if Option 1 is not viable. Good luck with your install and improved BT monitoring performance! Again, thanks!

Well you were right! Just came out of a two-day ‘Arctic blast’ across Texas. ‘Payback’ indeed, thinking all of my Northern Oliver comrades purposefully left their freezer doors open in retribution of my comments!

If you get the VE.Direct Smart Dongle, how would it be wired into your setup? I haven’t installed my Cerbo, but know it has a VE.Direct cable going to the SmartShunt VE.Direct cable port.

Mine shows those values for the SmartShunt in the Oliver (no monitor) and the MPPT solar charger for a 100Ah LFP portable power station in my TV. However, the PS also has a 712 monitor which is displayed as the ‘device’, rather than its’ associated SmartShunt, and does not display those values on the home screen. No Dongle. Screenshot of the PS monitor and charge controller only, the Oliver is in storage.

A dozen simple mods! * Denotes pending or completed mods inspired by other owner’s, with full credit and kudos to those individuals. Thanks! *Convenient umbrella holder: Not my idea or pic, but a great one I plan to do. *Collapsable hanger: Added suction cups to a length of pool cleaning pole. Great for drying towels and clothing; SS hooks for shoes, trash bags and such. *Propane tank lock: A couple of holes are drilled in alignment into existing parts to accommodate a long shank padlock; a security cable can be added to further theft deterrence. *Drain holes in awning support brackets: Drilling holes to facilitate proper water drainage on earlier OTT models. Propane auxiliary hose: This is a regulated hose extension that can easily be deployed by removing the round screw cap on the tank cover. It has an inline valve and conveniently stowed coiled atop the tank of proximity. *Tethered screw cap: A wire tether ensures the cap will not be lost if one fails to reinstall upon removal or it vibrates off in transit. And yes, that duplex outlet is another mod, but of the ‘more expensive and difficult to install’ category! Additional USB ports: Easy to achieve by upgrading some of the existing interior duplex outlets with USB capable outlets where needed the most. Handy squeegee for the wet bath: HASKO hook accessary used to hang this tool for convenience of use. I put a clear bumper bead on the wall where the handle end makes contact to protect the fiberglass. Backup plan!: Extra this and that for ……, well you know! Sanitary bags at hand: A convenient roll dispenser for general use, especially if one is in the ‘no paper in the black tank’ camp! Moving on! *Spray bottle: Staged below the TP holder and hung on a Command Brand spray bottle hanger. Great way to not only conserve water, when the toilet needs a little extra attention after use, but also fill space in the black tank. Handy toilet brush: Another use for those magnets widely used to help hold the shower door open when in camp.

My OTT came equipped with individual shackles, but an upgrade to grade 8 chain is something to consider, as well as extra length to further attachment. That said, it was an easy task to upgrade my SoloSkiff trailer with 3/8” Pewag square security chain, so it’s only fair that the Oliver gets equal treatment!

Spiral wrap hose protector, 3/4” ID for use on dual cable, .67” OD on single cable. Also used remnant sections to wrap propane hoses as routed along and over the frame up to the tank hoses. Unfortunately, the larger size in ‘black’ is currently unavailable on Amazon. I’ve used this type protector for decades on other trailers, as well as boats and Jeeps, and find this particular brand to be high quality and heavy duty.

Nice install! For general information to those that may not be aware, Anderson has an Environmental Boot that can be used at the bumper mount, as well as the DC-DC cable connect on the OTT; this ensures a waterproof connection when in use, and protection from dirt and moisture when disconnected.

It may be prudent for Oliver to address the issue in the forum’s News & Announcements for good measure, as well!

I will preface the following by thanking Mike and Carol for a segue into the issue of bedding variables. Hopefully it will be helpful to some or at least entertaining to others. We make our twin beds in such a way that eases this somewhat difficult task and doubles the layers of cover to better dial in personal comfort; works great for our ‘he’s hot’-‘she’s cold’ dilemma! It all starts with proper planning and prep, mostly done in the convenience of home when the bedding laundry from a trip is being done; sheets, pillowcases/shams, blankets and throws. I’ve grown accustomed to that ‘fresh’ scent opposed to the ‘seasoned’ smell of my old camping/hunting bedroll, but I’ve digressed! Once laundered, the fitted bottom sheets are folded in the usual awkward manner; however the flat sheets are each folded in half lengthwise, laid out (as if on the Oliver twin) to initially fold the bottom up and over to the desired bed length (foot of bed where tucked in to wherever you like the sheet top to be when made), then subsequent folds of the remaining in smaller lengths to complete the process for stowage; the blankets are folded in much the same manner, but rather than a half fold allow the top portion a bit more width for aisle overhang (more on this later). Along with folded pillowcases/shams, throws and pillows, all is zippered up in a clear bag and placed in the Oliver for future use. If a second set of sheets were used on a trip, they are folded in the same manner, but stowed at the closet upper shelf until next needed. We rarely completely make the beds prior to departure, but at minimum the fitted sheets are installed to protect the mattresses in transit. ‘Bed Scrunchies’ are your friend, especially if one uses standard twin sheets rather than the custom ones that better fit the curved mattress corner. ‘Why all the hoopla?’ you may be thinking, well let me explain! When it comes time to make the beds, your uniquely folded flat sheets are laid out ‘head to toe’ with the ‘lengthwise’ fold against the fiberglass wall, and if done properly that ‘initial’ fold you made will be at the foot of the bed. Now simply take that generous length of folded sheet and lift the mattress enough to tuck it into place; do the same with the blanket. Voila, the sheet and blanket ends are firmly anchored and the bed is almost made, less the pillows and optional throw, if desired. ‘Now wait a minute, what’s the big deal?’ you may be thinking, well let me explain! Traditionally, RV bed covers are tucked in at the bottom (easy), as well as along the wall (not so easy). A standard twin sheet/blanket is way too wide for the Oliver’s bed size, thus resulting in unruly bulk, and a lot of reaching, bending and tugging to tuck the excess away in good order. Many resort to altering bedding or making do with non-standard sizes, and I get it. However, I’m a simple man (my wife is laughing), but innovative! I now have two layers of sheets and two layers of blanket to crawl under, allowing me to peel off consecutive layers, as necessary. But there’s more! The crux of the matter is the simplicity and ease of effort in straightening the bed covers, whether during the night after getting up or just in and out of bed in the morning, and of course making it up for the day. ‘How is that?’ you may be thinking, well let me explain! If laying or sitting in bed, by grabbing and aligning the top corners of the sheet while slightly lifting and pulling, they will self-make; the blanket can then be done is like fashion. Because each are snuggly tucked and anchored, you can pull as taut as you like for the desired result. Making up the bed is just as easy, only from a standing position and in a jiffy! The proof is in the pudding!

We both sleep with our heads at the rear, I like laying in bed and seeing more of the beautiful interior space I paid for! When sitting up with the bed and sham pillows at my back, I find the corner wall curvature very comfortable. As for the nightstand, items placed and/or being charged on this table are well within reach, and I really like having my iPhone handy, as well the clock display visible whether laying or sitting. We wouldn’t be able to use our Lagun tables in the same manner if our sleeping positions were reversed; they are placed above the foot of our beds at night to stage the sham pillows and extra bedding. Also, the window view from bed is generally better and more private due to the wall recess at the rear. This is what we are accustomed to and have found no reason to sleep any other way; admittedly, the elbow issue is ‘real’ and I completely understand other’s views regarding the matter, but for us the pros outweigh the cons. Lastly, when the beds are made-up, the overall look of the interior decor is so much more appealing!

Wow, sounds like a very sophisticated setup! My Son has suggested I incorporate one of the Cerbo models to remedy a charging issue, and was wondering how else an install could be of benefit to the Oliver. Thanks for your reply, much appreciated!