Try2Relax

If I recall the plumbing correctly, the kitchen is a tee off the pex going to the bathroom, so it sounds like it's faucet related. Does the hot water behave the same?

OMG, that made laugh. Thanks Reed

Define emergency.. As a consumer of a non life and limb product, I wouldn't really expect any emergency contact access. Maybe that's just me though. Although, if they fried my batteries, I might expect some remediation

Nothing good to report, checked it yesterday afternoon at 2pm, full sun (break in clouds) and it indicated zeros, after all the winds there was maybe 4-6 inches on the panels. Guess their gonna have to be cleaned...

In reference to solar options, for those outside the box, I've been following this thread and reading the associated literature, it's very interesting and seems promising, especially size and weight. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/the-fuel-cell-experiment-175300.html

Before I clean them off, after today, I'll check and let you know what it shows for charging status.

The panels are made for the outdoors and can withstand quite a bit, there are many in sand wind storms, your cleaning show off will not scratch them to a point of concern. My concern is that the mount points are actually quite small and the extra weight over the coverage of the entire panel can add a lot to those points. There is micro cracking around them on my trailer (I forget what it's called) If leaving flat and level, I would clean them off if more than 4-6 inches. If you tilt one side up, I would think they'll clean themselves easy enough. The panels are dark so any sun on them will cause them to heat up, so even if you only clean what you can reach easily, the rest will melt faster. I haven't yet, but I'll clean off after today is finished. (They're flat)

Which is why they are reportedly going back to round in 2019. https://www.motorauthority.com/news/1110519_2019-chevrolet-silverado-1500-spy-shots

Sorry about the delay. I don't know if the newer trailers are still the same, the white plastic cover is plyable enough when warm, but can be pretty tough when cold.

Not knowing what ASU was, I had to look it up (my reading). My understanding is that when it senses extra power (engine running) it runs at 75% to max charge the cooling plate (thermal mass) my question is, did you somehow rig it to recognize when the solar is in a bulk charge state to achieve it's designed purpose? They also mention recommending a 3 phase compressor, so obviously an AC environment powered by a nice big diesel engine on a boat.. Do they make a recommendation anywhere in their literature about RV use, I ask because while boats roll a bit, I would not think they suffer from the same micro (and not) vibrations that a rolling vehicle would, so I would wonder about some dampening mounts for any circuitry.

I asked about the size of that one because her trailer is old school and that opening is bigger than what ours would be, I've had the microwave out and it doesn't even look close.

What are the dimensions of that opening?

Yes, it's about the size of a deck of cards. I keep mine in the rear Oliver light and plugged into USB, all accessible in the rear overhead, so no need to worry about battery changing

My only component issue was handled through Oliver, it was only the water pump but they said it was under manufacturer warranty so they sent me a new one and asked me to send the bad one to them to send back to the manufacturer.

I have the SPOT trace, it's plugged in to rear USB power and kept inside rear hull, it sends me a ping (text message) every night at 6pm, to let me know it's working and it's GPS coordinates. Last time I took it to Chicago it alerted my phone, of movement, before I was out of the driveway. Then little place markers all the way there. I've never tried to send the tracking to anyone else so I don't know how that worked. Looks like they are 50% off right now. LINK

I like the two runner approach, didn't think of that. I've just vacuumed the long one, I've got a skinny little Rocket vacuum that is great for everything. We are still looking for a good outside mat, any recommendations are welcome, we keep going back and forth about size of it.

The runner is great, now that Sherry mentions it I need an entry mat. In case you need it, 22 x 144 inches works perfectly. Ottomanson Ottohome Collection Carpet Solid Hallway Wedding Aisle Runner Rug with (Non-Slip) Rubber Backing, Black, 1'10" x 12'0" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012P2CVF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_U.NjAbXPBMTFP

I'm not really sure, after his (hull 69) they may have just incorporated the "extra" insulation as standard, I don't really know what they look like during production. These are some of the photos from his build, does anyone else's look like this?

Here is the original owners report on that trailer. ****************************** Cold weather performance has been excellent. As you can see here, this is what a beautiful spring morning in PA looks like today: Being the cheapskate that I am, I'd prefer not to gobble up my propane using the furnace if I can get away with it. So I've been just running the overhead heat strip and my ceramic cube heater instead. Luckily, I brought the cube heater to use in the space in between the hulls, as I thought that if I ran the overhead, that the floor would get cold. Well, it didn't work out that way. I just set the cube under the dinette and blow out down the hallway. Here you see the temps I'm getting on electric alone: Sensor 1 is the outside temp. #2 is in the bathroom. #3 is the space between the hulls and #4 is the cabin temperature there by the door where the display is mounted. Quite comfortable and not so cold under the floor. If I run the gas furnace, then the intra-hull temp is generally around 10 degrees less than the cabin. So far, I've haven't noticed any sweating inside or condensation buildup in between the hulls ************************ Full disclosure - this trailer has 12v tank heaters and 120v tank heaters, I've never used either. The trailer also has what Ron described as an artic package, this being an extra insulation package...

The tank wasn't installed in that photo. I tucked it all the way forward in the water control area, it rests directly against the plywood wall of the drawers, so I screwed a tie down on either side and strap it in. I believe it would also fit in the rear access behind the furnace, the space is there but I'm not sure about getting it in there. These only have a single connection, so they are just a pressure bubble in the system, just like if you have a well system at home. I can get an entire shower 'Navy style" with one running off the pump to pressurize the system. The other nice thing to having a larger size is it stays pressurized so if you stop for lunch you can wash your hands and other things (like flush the toilet in the middle of the night) without having to run the pump and eat up battery life.

On our first truck, I put a Leer cab high cap on, primarily because we already had a Honda 7000is (propane) generator and wanted the height and security for it to fit, along with bike and other stuff. With our new truck, the wife decided she wanted a lower profile look, so this one has a tonneau cover, while Reed says they all leak I've yet to see any water in the bed with this one (it's not inexpensive) So, the generator was downsized to a Honda 2000is (propane) and the bike gets broken down, everything else fits nicely. I will say with the cap, I would have to crawl in as the generator was secured in the front and using a bed slide wouldn't work as it was locked into the tie downs. But I actually find that I prefer the tonneau with it's ability to roll up to be able to reach over, the side, for things in the front or easily remove it for completely large cargo loads, not travel related. It's all about the choices and determinations of what your expected needs will be. Oh, on the 350 the hitch comes nowhere near the tailgate.

Being a fan of overkill, I would go with https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Chevrolet/Express+Van/2007/C15320.html?vehicleid=200714107 While you could go with a lighter model, a lot of the stresses of the weight distribution are the hitch frame and it's mounting system.

Sorry about that, correct I was referring to reducing the vibration/noise created from the pump. as for the accumulator, I went down this road along time ago and after researching it, decided I didn't see the point in such a small model, measured out all the space and decided on one of these http://www.flotecpump.com/ResidentialProduct_fl_hw_tk_FP7105.aspx it nestles nicely in the spot right where the new tank feed should go I believe, so I will need to relocate it. When I installed it I placed a shutoff valve directly in front of it so it can be completely removed (winter) if necessary.

I don't know how much those Shurflo lines cost, but two 30" braided lines from Home Depot work great.

The other SPOT is for trailer security, you plug it in, USB, and if it moves it sends out an alert and it's location every 5 or 10 mins. I have one, and it sends me a text every night to let me know where it is. https://www.findmespot.com/en/#