LongStride

We entertained the idea of the composting toilet. After reading all about it I just did not feel it was worth the extra cost and effort. As I recall, you need to collect the urine in a jug that fastens to the front of the toilet. Obviously when the pee jug is full you need to dump it (while your wife is reading her book). In a campground you can't just toss it into the bushes. I prefer to have the convenience of a flushing toilet and spend the night at a campground with facilities to dump it now and then. When boon docking you can go several days before you have to dump the black tank. When camping at primitive sites, just grab your shovel and some TP and head for the trees. Be considerate of others and go at least 50 feet into the woods before you do your thing. We hike a lot and carry a little shovel in case the need comes up. The National Park Service says to get a minimum of 50 feet off of the trail before you do your thing, so that is the standard that we "go" by. Ha ha!

Good that it has a side door. Looks like you have found a nice home for the "Villa". $3,000 a year is about the going rate for indoor storage in our area, but it would be more with the square footage that you have. That is a pretty big space. Nice.

I wouldn't be afraid to work inside with the door down provided that I could lift the door to get out. I would check the manual release mechanism on the door operator first to ensure it functions properly. Pretty sure I could find the door in the dark. I'm with you about fire though. You just can't be too cautious.

I'm no optics expert. Just thinking out loud... I would do everything @ScubaRx recommends right up to the point of reassembly. At that point, I think that I would attempt to fill the unit with inert gas to ensure no moisture was trapped inside. Place the two halves of the shell in a ziplock bag. Snip off one corner of the bag and insert a plastic straw, sealing it with tape. Evacuate all of the air by pressing gently on the bag forcing the air out of the straw. Insert the nozzle of a canned argon canister into the straw. Snip off the opposing corner of the bag (for air to escape) and fill it with argon until it displaces all of the air in the bag. Let enough argon out of the bag to manipulate the two shell halves to mate up. Hold them together tightly with one hand. Tear the bag off with the other hand (or recruit help). Insert screws and tighten. Provided you can get a good seal on the shell, once filled with inert gas it will stay moisture free. You can get a can of argon on Amazon. People use it to evacuate the oxygen out of open wine bottles they want to re-cork. I think they cost around $15.

Good point about the emissions with the propane conversion. The standard gasoline fired 2200i meets the emissions of every state but California. Honda makes a different model approved for use in the Golden State.

Put your neutral ground bonding plug into one of the outlets on your generator. Start it up. Go into your Ollie and make sure there is no load on your 120v circuits (TV off, AC off, refrigerator on LP and nothing plugged into your outlets). Plug Ollie into your generator and go fire up the air conditioner. This procedure is what I did the first (and only) time I used my 2200i and everything went without a hitch. I have the micro-start option and I assume that you do as well. Stay cool, Mike

Oops, 174 (missing window on door).

210

@SeaDawg you might view the idea of tucking a little one under the bed a bit differently if you spent some time in the Navy. I could not even sit up in my bed without hitting my forehead on the bunk above ⚓️.

The clarifications in your last post lead me to agree with @SeaDawg that perhaps a small Class C would be better suited to your mission.

I've been up that way. Went to school there for a brief period at the MSU Washtenaw extension. That is the only time that I have visited the eastern side of the state. We live in South Bend and usually work our way up the coast of Lake Michigan and on up to the UP. Took a float plane into Isle Royale a few years ago and had some memorable albeit dangerous encounters with a few moose. Not foolish enough to get close to them on purpose, we just stumbled across them while hiking. We almost went with a Titan Pro 4X but in the end felt the Tundra better suited our needs as a tow vehicle. Our other vehicle is a 2013 Xterra Pro 4X that we use for getting around offroad and on two tracks. I just love that thing. Glad that I got one before that quit making them.

I see. Hopefully a forum member can give you an idea of where to find the fuse. Where are you heading in Michigan? We live in northern Indiana near the Michigan state line and we play up there often.

What am I missing here? Two kids under 5 yrs. One on the side dinette bed and the other on a foam pad on the floor between the twin beds. Just don't step on the little one when you get up to go pee. If you go with the port/starboard sleeping arrangement in lieu of the twin set up you can tuck the youngster under the bed. If I was a toddler I would love that. It would be like a "fort". Remember those? In a few years they will be old enough to set up their own tent and sleep in it. Then you won't have to deal with disassembling a mod to make the Ollie comfortable for just 2 or 3 persons.

Those type of straps don't break very easily under static tension. They fail when there is movement causing metal fatigue. If you were to bend that strap back and forth a few times where a hole is, it would break in pretty short order. Been there done that when I forgot tin snips. I don't have the Truma in my LE l, but if I did I would investigate the possibility of installing a nylon strap with a cinching mechanism to hold the unit firmly in place. I agree with @John E Davies about the screw. Just make certain that you don't use a longer screw (or drive one into another spot) because there is a water tank in there somewhere.

Jim/Mary, I don't believe that this will work on an Oliver. To my knowledge they do not provide any awnings that roll up from the end. They all roll up into a cassette mounted to the trailer and the head follows the awning in. When you retract the awning the upper portion of the EZ Zip it will just hang out of the cassette, or worse it will jam it. Sorry. The additional shade would be nice as well as the benefit of having the awning anchored to the ground in case of a wind gust.

Hi Scott. The service department should be able to tell you where to look for the fuse. They should also be able to tell you how to reconnect the rocker switch. As far as a wiring diagram goes, if you get one you will have done what none of the rest of us has been able to do. I don't have an auto drain on my backwater valve. I would imagine that there is a way to manually open and close the automatic ones should the auto function fail. I suggest that you ask the service department about that as well. Good luck!

When we find ourselves disappointed because Oliver “didn’t do this” or “didn’t provide that”, we also need to consider the efforts that the service dept. puts into trying to resolve customer issues. I would not trade that level of performance for any of the things that I think should have been provided by the factory including the elusive wiring diagrams.

@mossemi, I ran across those the other day. They look pretty nice. Awful expensive for such a small fan though. Do you feel that the quality of the fan justifies its cost?

Nice 240Z .

I did a web search about using anti-sway devices in slippery road conditions. I was just curious. Both Curt and Reese anti-sway friction bar devices have a manufacturers warning stating that they should not be used in road conditions that could cause a loss of traction. I did not run across any similar cautions for the Anderson or any of the torsion bar type WDH's. Bear in mind that an anti-sway friction bar is an entirely different animal than the Anderson. They both operate on a friction principle but a friction bar is only mounted on one side of the trailer frame (and connected to a side mounted auxiliary ball on the hitch), whereas the Anderson is completely different. The friction on the Anderson is evenly distributed and constant. It behaves differently than a friction bar, and friction bars provide no weight distribution. Regardless of what system you use (or none at all) you need to adjust your speed to suit the road conditions. Slow down.

When I say “bit” I’m referring to the drill bit. A stubby bit would give you more room.

I believe that @SeaDawg is onto something there. Even if the fuse on the AC circuit was blown or if the plug came loose you should still get lights on the control panel from the DC 12v connection. The DC connection is fused as well but it is unlikely both systems failed. Hopefully holding the power button in will reset the control panel and resolve your issue. I hope this does not spoil a trip for you. Best of luck.

FWIW I just went out and checked the screws on my inverter. All four were installed but they are precariously close to the edge of the backing material. I think that if I had engineered this mounting system I would have countersunk machine screws into the backing before installing it. Then it would be a simple matter of slipping the inverter mounting holes over the screws and putting on the nuts with permatex thread locker. This would also allow you to remove the bottom fasteners on the inverter with a socket and ratchet rather than try to get a screwdriver in there. It would be a simple (but added) manufacturing step for the factory to lay out the holes with a template then drill them out and countersink. By using a drill press and making the hole the same diameter as the threads, you would ensure the fasteners will be at a 90 deg. angle to the backer to avoid issues when mounting the inverter. For a repair, I would start by drilling a few more holes in the flanges on the inverter. I would mark out the holes on the HDPE backing and drill them out to accept threaded studs that I would epoxy into the holes. Then I would proceed as described above by fastening the inverter with nuts using a thread locker. You would need a small right angle drill. Northern tool has some pretty compact models for under $100.00. You might also need to shorten a bit with a grinder to fit it in there. Great excuse to buy another drill motor.

Apparently you have power but it is not getting to the refrigerator. I would check the fuse first. If that is not it, the plug on the power cord may have become dislodged. Unfortunately neither one is easy to get to even with good hips and knees. If the fuse is not the culprit and you need to check the plug, you may be able to access it through the cabinet under the sink. There is a post on this somewhere on the forum. I am not quite sure where. You will have to use the search function to find it. Good luck, and recruit someone young and flexible to help you if it is the plug.

@John E Davies good plan to stay hitched if wildfires are around. The idea of a quick getaway never dawned on me when you mentioned wildfires in your post about the window air filter.