ScottyGS

I have been using a Sensor Push (https://www.sensorpush.com/) for some time now. I keep it under the port side bunk near the controls for the outside faucet. There have been times when I did not winterize because our trailer is kept inside a large unheated garage. Temps rarely go down below freezing but to be safe we use a large oil filled heater with the hatches blow. I have also monitored the temp without the hatches blown and was surprised to find the difference in temp was only about a degree or two. This would be inside the trailer vs. in between the hulls with temps close to where you would worry about freezing lines. So my conclusion would be that even down to the 20's using a cube heater you should be fine. "SHOULD BE".... I would still monitor and use the on board heat if the between hull temps started to show a drop. When I first got the ceramic cube heater and I wasn't familiar with it I woke up around 3am and the temp inside was 85 degrees. Not fun but no broken pipes. The Sensor Push has provided a LOT of peace of mind for the last few years. Of course all the other advice like pulling in the outside faucet and insulating the inlets apply. YMMV... Good Luck Scotty

Dubbed "The Flying Sea Turtle" by my wonderful wife in summer of 2016. By next Summers camping season we will have had 10 years with her. Truly a unique Oliver for both the Logo... (many people remember the Turtle) and the unique stripes that no other Oliver has. They were a test pilot by Oliver but they decided to stay with the original "swoosh" design. I have to say I am still very proud to own her. See you on the road! Scotty

Speaking of Dash Cams.... this happened a couple years back. GRMN-2023-06-16_17-23-51-exportedVideo.MOV

Remember the black streaks that came from the black gaskets drying out. And the solution was to paint them with Capt. Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure. Took a while to get Oliver to even look for another material but they finally did it. Scotty

I did this for years when I had an F150.... Over time I noticed that the receiver developed what I thought was an excessive amount of play. So much that I started to get a clunk sound every now and then when stopping. Now I have a new TV and generally just use a ratchet to tighten the chains. I think the 2" method would be better and am tempted to try again... Has anyone else experienced the receiver developing excess play? TIY, Scotty

Anderson did replace my WDH that came with my trailer in 2016. The issue was water getting into the cone and destroying it. Made one helluva racket too. The replacement came with a ring fastened to the top that kept water out. I think those days are gone.

That is a shame. Our preferred method of keeping cool is to use the maxxfan set on out and open the windows. We always kept the rear window closed and never thought about it. But since installing the fan.... I am a big FAN of using the rear window to pull in fresh air... especially since it opens on my side. Of course the more windows open the lower the airflow through any one of them... Let the window negotiations begin!

John, On our trailer (2016 model - hull 145) there was a cigarette lighter receptacle on the left wall in the attic. Had to remove the wall to do the installation and I just tapped into the back of that plug. Very easy and you can test it by holding the wires on before you install. Good Luck

OK... so sorry to be late the to the party and sorry for the ICE truck joke... (it would be cool in the summertime though) BUT.... The idea of using the BW continuum hitch is intriguing. The Bulldog hitch is about 16 inches long and there is another 10 inches of tongue after that. Appears there would be more than enough room to mount the actual hitch. Now the pump handle thingamajig is another matter. I don't think it's possible that future iterations of the hitch would allow that part to be smaller, but some enterprising individual might find some work around other than (heaven forbid) cutting the fiberglass shroud. If you could find an alternate way of mounting that pneumatic box it might could work. Scotty

Is this what you are talking about?

JD.. Yes that is the fan I installed. No, it's not whisper quiet... but it is pretty quiet when set on low. We like the maxxfan a lot when sleeping... provides just the right amount of white noise to cover any other sounds. The Sirocco is about the same as the maxxfan but it's a lot closer. Still not annoying and should not interfere with sleeping. I posted a video of the fan on the facebook page... you can look for it there. I cycled through the 3 speeds so you can hear how loud each is. Steve, Have not travelled with it at all but plan on leaving it in the down position. I think it would stress the fan especially on bumpy roads. Will probably leave it in the down position all the time. Thanks, Scotty

Hey Everyone, Just wanted to share some info on the Sirocco Fan install that I did recently to #145. We've had posts on this type of install before... John Davies I believe was the most robust with a metal backplate between the ceiling over the bunk and the fan base itself. This install is a bit simpler. I used a plastic sheet to act as an interior backing plate AND a drilling template. Lots of measuring and fretting were involved before actually drilling the holes. The result was better than expected. The mounting is rock solid! I used 6-32 x 2 inch machine screws with washers to mount the interior plate that the fan installs onto. The supplied backing tape is very sticky so make sure the plate is exactly where you want it before peeling the backing off that stuff. When you drill... there is an air gap above the ceiling so be prepared for that (I wasn't for the first hole) and make sure the drill is as perfectly straight as you can hold it. One thing worth mentioning is.... You will be forced to place the fan so that the stowed position is tilted FORWARD. If you try to mount it so there is enough room that the fan can fold toward the rear You will most likely have some plate mounting holes that hit the aluminum L bracket that holds the side wall of the attic. Again... lots of measuring and noodling about the placement. For power I just tapped into the cigarette lighter plug in the wall, very simple. The fan moves a lot of air even on low power. I believe it will be very nice for those hotter boondocking nights that require a LOT of fan power. I have purchased a second fan and will mount it to a small cutting board with a Cig lighter plug wired on so we can move it around as needed. I thought some folks might be in the same boat as I was in wanting to mount this fan above the bunk but worried that it might not be sturdy enough. Seems very solid. Will let you know if the next series of bumpy roads changes that. Happy Camping, Scotty

If you don't have acetone you can try a bit of WD-40 or other penetrant. You shouldn't need much. Spray a dime size on a rag and rub where the marks are. Then wash and put a bit of wax on. Most penetrants use some type of solvent to help it flow into cracks and such and it's the solvent that will clean just about anything.

A manufacturers max payload number is theoretical for a very specific version of that truck. After all is said and done, options added, axle ratios, etc. You often find that the payload numbers are far less than the maximum stated for the truck. Don't believe it until you see the sticker on the door. And, maybe then until you've put it on the scales. Then you will run into what every other half ton truck tower runs into. Payload limits.