ChrisMI

To charge your lithium batteries you’ll need a dc-dc converter like this 30 amp unit. Run some 6 gauge wire for the truck and trailer. To get anywhere close to 150 amps you’ll need to use massively larger wire and multiple charge controllers/converters wired in parallel along with your mention 440 amp alternator(s).

This is terrible news! I can’t help but think this is just Oliver flexing on the supplier so they can charge a huge premium on install. So instead of driving an hour to Elkhart, I can waste another $1k on the install and $1k on fuel to sit around for a couple days while the factory figures it out. NOT COOL OLIVER! Guess I’ll have to bribe a local shop to lie about what brand of trailer I have.

Mine from a year ago has a car door lock style cover of their the locks and work great in the cold/snow. Maybe they had a supplier constraint that forced them to a different style. Pick below from the db website might be the new design…

@Steph and Dud B I’d squirt some tri-flow in the locks. Tri-Flow

@Patriot the eu3000is is actually the ideal generator with it being quieter and having electric start. I just couldn’t get it up into the bed of our 1 ton. Do you find it vibrates the trailer while running it in the basket? Nice setup!

We have a nice large Honda generator for the house and two cheaper knock off units for loaning to friends/family. I find the cheaper units hit well below their weight class in performance and quality. The powerhorse 2300 I purchased from northern tool has an 80cc engine (vs the 120 on the Honda 2200) and spins pretty fast to barely run the microwave. Voltage drops pretty fast when its worked as well. Going forward we’re installing a Truma AC unit and I see three possibilities for generators… The new Honda 3200 + small, lightweight, high quality, just enough power, fuel efficient - spins faster so slightly louder and long term durability concerns? Expensive! Dual Honda 2200’s + ample power, able to run AC at a lower idle? RPM, flexible - double the weight, double the maintenance, double the packing space, double the… A single Honda 2200 and a Victron inverter/charger + small, light, easy, quiet - constantly cycling the battery bank, added stress on the inverter/charger I do not want the stress of always checking the voltage and micromanaging the loads. When I need the AC, I need it. No nonsense, all day if need be.

This might help… did a quick sketch last year to order a mattress.

I noticed they changed the wheels a few months back as well. I’m curious what the new 15 inch wheels will look like. Not sure I agree with Oliver’s choice to go smaller…

I was actually considering a lightning pro model for around town driving. However, the $11k bump in price this year has completely soured my desire.

You’re probably going to be at 100% capacity for both payload and towing. IMO that’s marginally ok for driving a boat 20 mins to the lake or bringing home some sand for the kids. However, for towing a camper a reasonable distance I would not recommend it. I’d recommend a half ton… Please take a picture of the sticker on your drivers side door jam, I’m almost positive it will not show a 1600 lb payload.

I was told Oliver did not add a Victron Multiplus when they switched to the solar controller because of space constraints. However, one huge advantage Victron has over the competition is the ability share the sources of power at all times. It can pull from the generator, solar, and batteries to easily power the AC. This would allow a small generator to be used while shallow cycling the batteries.

This sounds like a great package to me. I’d op for a 2500 w/o the plow or camper package. Rides a lot smoother unloaded or with a smaller trailer and still has a lot of available payload. Costco just started the extra $1k off Silverado HD pickups. That will stack with the employee discount and any other available rebates. Around these parts contractors et al are always looking for HD work trucks for their crews that are in good condition. Used trucks demand top dollar.

I talked with a Honda rep this past week regarding the 3200. They used stronger magnets and a higher rpm to get the output numbers. The fuel burn is very impressive, it could run forever on 6 gallons of gas. I might give it a try if it drops below $2.6k.

I’m curious if a similar mod could be added to the recpro units?

Your GVWR is 8,750. You need the empty weight of your truck as optioned to subtract from that number. I think you made a great choice for the TV. Larger brakes, higher payload, etc. Also the color will match perfectly with your new Oliver!

We purchased a new trailer this spring and wanted the newer panels, solar controller, and different charger/inverter. I tried to get Oliver to just mount the brackets but they were still unsure (at the time) how the upgraded panels would mount. I want to say the price was around $2k for them to pull the wires and mount the panels (you provide). The newer panels and victron controller is around $600ish. Still haven’t upgraded our trailer, too busy this year.

GM started using the eco (tech) name around 2000 ish. All diesel engines over 25ish hp have some sort of filter on the exhaust. Those that are above 75ish hp are also required to have def.

Wow, that was hard for me to watch. I could almost feel the residual stress as they rolled in late at night with 8 or 9 percent left. That equates to less than 10 miles of range… Stopping every 80-100 miles for well over an hour and close to two if everything doesn’t go perfectly? This was under ideal conditions weather wise and no other charging traffic. Very enlightening, not something we’re going to try any time soon.

Currently in our area diesel is about 15% more expensive than regular. Seems reasonable given the higher stored energy. Normally I expect 25 to 30% better mpg but higher maintenance costs for sure. With our one ton pulling the E2 we get just over 15 with the cruise set on 70, higher on the backroads. I’m curious what a gas 3/4 or 1 ton would get with the cruise set at 70…

I’ve had a cyclo unit for over a decade. It’s nice but heavy. I’d probably go with a smaller unit like the PC…I’ll have to look up the exact model.

My A&P has one, it’s really nice looking and he reported 28 ish mpg. I absolutely would get that engine over the gas option which I’ve been told is gutless with a trailer. Carefully check the payload as I think the oil burner is only available on the higher (heavier) trims.

Along with different tires I noticed Oliver changed the wheels recently. I’m not a huge fan so far but I’m sure they’ll grow on me.

The link that John posted above has this Plug Adapter referenced. It basically uses one of the 120v legs to power your camper through your normal cord RV power cord. The two legs of 120 power (in your truck) are 180 degrees out of phase with each other. They cannot be combined (spliced) and I doubt many/any RV’s utilize appliances that require 240v. The 50 amp RV plug used in larger trailers just distributes each leg separately to different appliances/outlets in the trailer. Ideally generators would like the two 120v legs used evenly as far amp draw is concerned. I’m not sure if this is an issue with the ford truck outlet.

A little late for @Trainman but I’ve had very good luck with Odyssey batteries. Incredibly long life and good storage capacity for an AGM. A single pc1750 might make the perfect battery for an always connected trailer.