topgun2

Looks like you got it covered - when the TV stations are weak in the first place just about anything that is possible will make them worse. I guess you could put an RF filter on that bathroom fan, but, it hardly seems worth it to me. Bill

Nope - not normal. Did you turn the signal booster "on" - a green LED should light when you press the small black button on a switch usually located in the "attic" (large storage compartment at the back of the camper)? Bill

Trainman - The specific answer to your question is: 40. Note that this number includes the "expansion links" but does not include either the turnbuckles nor the threaded pieces that hold the red bushings. As you will find out, the brackets that attach to the frame of the Oliver can be adjusted back and forth to some degree. This could allow for a link or two plus or minus. Also, there are a couple of owners that have placed the brackets in the center of the frame (John Davies being one of these owners) as opposed to the more normal outside locations. Bill

I thought that I had posted pictures of this solar panel previously. I use it for winter storage (25 watts) and received it in trade from another Forum member. It has the 7 pin connector and it is really easy to install. Bill

I'm constantly telling people about the Oliver company and I always get the sense that they simply think I'm so in love with the travel trailer that I must have blinders on. I guess the answer is that when one does not have any other company that operates the way Oliver does there is nothing to relate it to. Certainly no company can be that good! Well, at least in my experience, Oliver IS that good. Bill

Steve - Thanks for the warning! When the wheels were off during the tire rotation I did a visual inspection and 1. there was little grease "splashed around" inside the wheel hub and 2. there appeared to be plenty of grease in and around the castle nut. I'll be at the factory right at the end of June and ask them to take a closer look and I have no long trips planned in the meantime. However, I must admit that even driving the 10 miles back to the storage facility today I kept an eye on the temperature readings. See you two soon at the Rally. Bill

In preparing for the 2019 Owner's Rally I thought that it was time to actually get my new metal tire stems because of my new TPMS and at the same time have the tires rotated and balanced. Two days ago, when I brought TWIST home from the storage facility I noticed that the chrome "plug" in the center of the front driver's side wheel was missing. Upon closer inspection I found that the hub/spindle cap was simply rattling around in the chrome cover on the wheel. Apparently that was the reason the plug was missing. Yesterday I took Twist to a local tire shop and they installed the metal stems, balanced and rotated the tires. They also tapped the hub/spindle cap back on. Total price - $53.00 - not including the tip I gave the two guys that did the work. When I got home I emailed Jason Essary and told him about the missing plug. Not only did he get a replacement in the mail right away, but, he cautioned me to make sure I checked the wheels for "play" in that it was possible that the nut securing the bearings was not torqued properly in the first place. While I've greased and re-packed bearings on boat and camper trailers ever since I was about 12 years old, it never crossed my mind that this just may have been the reason for the loose cap. A big thank you goes to Jason for reminding me. Bill p.s. upon checking the wheels for "play" - everything was OK.

I'll add a bit to mountainoliver's statements - the air bags, sumo springs and/or helper springs do virtually nothing for "porpoising" (that dreaded bounce that is most often caused by expansion joints on the interstates). The Andersen WDH vastly improves this issue while at the same time leaving the warranty on that 2019 pickup intact. Bill

I think that the most likely source of the problem would be at the trailer connector/pigtail that you plug into your tow vehicle. I would look for a short there most likely caused by water and/or dirt. Bill

If anyone way out West is really interested in organizing a Western Rally I'd suggest besides contacting Hardrock a private message (PM) here on the Forum to Foy and Mirna. Last year they organized an Oliver Mini-rally in northern Florida. Even though they went well above and beyond organizing a dinner and lunch and then had to change a couple of things due to a pending hurricane, I'm guessing that the actual work involved was fair minimal - get a campground, set dates and let it be known to the world. I believe that the old saying - "build it and they will come" - certainly applies here. Yes, a central location would be nice, but, the West is a big place and you will not be able to satisfy all of the people all of the time. To coin another phrase - "Just Do It". Bill

I remember being told after I ordered that "it will not be long now". While that wasn't true, the wait did give me a chance to read everything on this Forum, ask questions, and get prepared. Since the three to you appear to be "seasoned" in the RV sense, I'm guessing that the preparation will not be too bad. But, getting those things that you want for your new Ollie will still take some time. On the good side of the wait is that you should still have some wonderful weather to enjoy after you pick her up. Welcome! Bill

After taking Mike's suggestion, don't worry about it (too much). All you are doing with the fresh water tank is sanitizing it. Assuming that you have done the bleach and flush routine simply take a sniff of the water that is left in the tank. If it still smells like bleach then either flush it another time or two and/or add a small amount of baking soda before you flush it that final time. Even if there is a hint of bleach odor left after flushing - it will not harm you. Bill

Beware of those untold "Little Timmy" stories! Dark woods, howling winds, a lone owl hooting far off in the dark. However, I'm certain that hull number 476 will keep you all safe for many miles down the road. Welcome! Bill

The anode is behind (and part of) the plug that is in the bottom area of the water heater. You access it by removing that plug (sometimes a "smiley face" is draw on the outside of the plug which shows correct orientation when you screw it back into the water heater) and pulling it with the anode rod attached from the heater. Note: when screwing it back into the water heater be extra careful to NOT cross thread the plug. To get to the plug, you open the door to the water heater on the rear street side of the camper. This is the Suburban water heater video on this subject - hope it helps! Bill

I'd guess that the control board will need replacement. But, Sherry has put you on the correct track. Good luck! BIll

Really nice number! Welcome to the ownership world. At the Rally don't be afraid to ask anyone about what you see on their camper. Or, simply ask to see the inside. I've never had anyone refuse a request for more info. Can't wait to meet you guys - please grab me if I pass by and Twist is always open to you. Bill

OK, I changed your picture for you. If you don't like it just let me know and I'll work on it again or return it to your original. Bill p.s. very nice fish!

If there is any "stuff" floating around, I'd imagine that it will surface at the Owner's Rally. Other than that I've not heard a word. Bill

In mind of John's suggestion: I'm not sure about other brands of 1/2 ton trucks, but, the Ford F-150 will let you chose which trailer you are towing (if there is only one then there is no choice given and the process is automatic) and then the truck's computer automatically tracks the mileage driven with that trailer. No "alarms" can be set to note when maintenance is due but it is very easy to simply scroll through the various dashboard screen. And, each time the trailer is connected you are automatically taken to that set of screens on the dash. Bill

Most WalMart's also have an inexpensive grease gun that has a flexible hose. And they have the grease too. Bill p.s. while you're at it - pick up a shoebox sized container in order to store the grease gun, extra tube of grease, gloves and some paper towels. In addition, you might want to pick up some zerk covers in order to keep those a bit cleaner between services - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CWX7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I do remember seeing one installed on an Oliver. Perhaps it was on ScubaRX's Ollie but I'm not too sure. I'd PM him to check. Bill

The Smith's got the description of where that valve is located down to a science. I too remember my first venture into that area to try to find that puppy. I can now even find it in the dark! Yes, that picture does show the valve in the closed position. Bill

Thanks for the update AND the photos. No wonder you two like it! Bill

John has a good point about the bugs. Many of them - most of them - perhaps all of them are acidic. Therefore they will eat into whatever wax you have applied if you leave them there for too long. There are a number of other waxes and "detailer" products that will do the job. If you have a good base of wax on that nose almost any of the "detailers" on the market will get them off without a bunch of work but it is certainly easier and more friendly to the surface of your Oliver to do this cleaning when the bugs have had a chance to soften a bit with dew or rain. I've found that the products sold specifically to remove bugs are only marginally useful when applied prior to a normal washing. Bill

I recently replaced my original TPMS with an EEZ tire unit. My old system still works and I would be happy to give it to anyone at this year's Owner's Rally for the price of a beer. So, if you are sitting on the fence or are just curious as to how these things work, you certainly can't beat the price! Bill edit: the old TPMS has been spoken for - if this changes for any reason I will let it be know at the Rally.