topgun2

Kathryn & Chad - As I recall, you two are just down the mountain from us. This is great news and I'm happy for you. In the past there have been a number of threads concerning allergies and ways to reduce or limit things that cause them. Have fun over the winter looking for them. And, as Mike says, ask away. A nice September/October cruise with your new Ollie down the Natchez Trace would be a wonderful way to get acquainted. Bill

Hard lesson learned on the propane tanks but glad it was nothing more serious. With regards to the Mr. Buddy - I wouldn't give up on them. They are highly rated and it is ALWAYS nice to have backup heat. Bill

mdernier - Got you moved! Bill

Strange with the Mr. Buddy - I've used mine for over ten years without a single problem. I assume that you are running it from the little one pound propane tanks? Bill

Duane - Take a look at the tread - "Microwave Popped a Circuit …" for an explanation of what this plug does. That should help you decide as to using it or not using it with your generator. Bill

Either email of call Jason Essary ( jessary@olivertraveltrailers.com ). He can arrange to ship you one. Bill

Moutainoliver - I suspect that you have not received any replies to your last post because virtually any comments would be only a matter of opinion since I doubt that most of us have any testing equipment for these types of things. I would think that in theory you are correct, however, given the tolerances involved and the forces involved, at what point does the "tilt" you describe actually make a real world difference let alone actually sacrifice weight distribution versus anti-sway in any meaningful way? It is obvious (to me) that the Andersen does do what it is supposed to do with regards to weight distribution (and there is less noticeable "bounce" or "porpoiseing" as compared to previous weight distribution systems that I've used) since it is easy to measure the effect of the distribution. But since I've never been able to get the Oliver to sway (with or without the Andersen) I really can't tell how well the anti-sway part of the system works or even if it works at all. When I had the "old" Andersen I replaced the friction cone three times trying to get it to stop making noise. Each time I inspected the old friction cone I removed and while there was some dirt (as has been reported by others) there were no signs of wear or distortion in either the cone or the ball sleeve or housing. Maybe I simply had not used it long enough for this type of distortion to be noticeable or maybe my eye just didn't see it (certainly I didn't measure for it). Bottom line is that I suspect that Overland is correct in his comments about finding the limits of the departure angle - the frame would bend or the welds (either on the Oliver or the brackets that hold the Andersen to the frame to the Oliver) would break/bend before the ball cone or Andersen housing would give way. Again, as Overland comments, a worthy experiment - as long it is with someone else's Oliver and not mine. Bill

Now that almost all of the snow has melted its time to relax----- https://news.orvis.com/moment-of-chill?j=296600&sfmc_sub=13877534&l=353_HTML&u=95700905&mid=7236729&jb=864&cm_mmc=orvisemail-_-spm-_-18_12_21_branding-_-button_link&adv=619770&et_cid=296600&et_rid=211315 Merry Christmas! Bill

John - Like Mike, I too was advised to put a couple of drops of light oil around the "cone". In fact, Andersen even sent me a sample bottle of Boeshield "T-9" to try before I finally gave up and got the "new" Andersen. I was told by Andersen's Oliver rep that they use the "T-9" during assembly and it wouldn't have any noticeable effect on the anti-sway properties of the hitch. That doesn't calculate well in my brain, but, with anti-sway on my truck plus the "new" Andersen I simply don't worry about it anymore. Bill

"New" Andersen would only be understood by those of us that have had it for over two or three years. The "old" Andersen looked to be not much different, but, the angle of the "cone" on the hitch ball was different and (for some) would cause the assembly to make a bunch of noise. Andersen redesigned this and now only sells this "new" design. I've not heard any complaints about it since the redesign. Bill

Isn't there a rule that states that the person who first has the idea is the person that gets to design and install the idea? Sounds like a busy winter for FrankC to me. Bill p.s. While I understand the problem, there hasn't been a single instance in the last four years where I've felt I was anywhere near an angle that would require me to do anything with the Andersen. Once I got the "new" Andersen it has performed without any issues at all and is quiet too.

Nice find, MJ - that is even cheaper than the equivalent at Harbor Freight ( https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical-receptacle-tester-with-gfci-diagnosis-63929.html ) Bill

Boy, would I ever love to see that! Ever notice just how nice the Oliver's clean and curvy lines match with rugged rocks? They really do make for a nice combination. Bill

Bill - What did it cost you for the airplane that did the sky writing? Bill

Actually, the Zero G is the hose that I mentioned above. After seeing reviews I bought it because it is very easy to store as compared to a regular hose. Sure does make for a fun afternoon trying to get that thing back into the container it came in! Bill

For what its worth, I keep my inverter OFF except for when I specifically need to - primarily to power the microwave for popcorn. This is because even when the inverter is not being used but is in the ON position, it will draw a bit of power. There is no reason to "waste" this power (read battery resources) if there is no immediately need for 110 volts. Bill

Once again Richie and Jason work their magic.

I did a 1/2 Ironman triathlon in Muncie a number of summers ago. The pavement was so hot that my shoes stuck to the tar in the pavement with each step on the run. What was I thinking? After spending the first 25 years of our marriage traveling during the holidays, it sure is nice to go to church, put an extra log on the fire, relax, go for a short hike on Christmas day to feed the animals in the forest and generally do nothing. Bill

Darryl & Kim - I'm guessing that the Coors light on the nightstand helped too! Glad to hear that all has worked out well for the two of you and you are now "on the road". Hopefully the two of you can get to this year's Owner's Rally and we will have a chance to meet in person. Also, glad that the Forum was of some help to you. Remember the old motorcycle saying, "black things down and shiny side up". Bill

25 is minimum length to go with. I always carry an additional 25 but have seldom needed it. Sorry - no advice on the heater tape or heated water hose. Bill

Temps (here at 2400 feet elevation) never got below 32 degrees last night and there was a bit of light rain. Therefore, the amount of snow has been reduced from about 12 inches to around 6 inches as of 9:00am. Virtually everything is closed for the day - you got to remember that these southern towns simply do not have the equipment for "proper" snow removal. And, due to the weight of the snow, there are many trees down blocking the roads. Looks like a day of another log on the fire and trying to remember exactly where that bottle of wine is located. Bill p.s. sledding is a bunch of fun since the streets still haven't been plowed.

Just make sure that you mark that old hose you are using for black/grey water in some way so that you don't get the two mixed up! And you thought that the hose made the water taste bad - just wait until the two hoses get mixed up. Bill

Try this. Bill https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRYHGKC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Well, depends on how old your Oliver is. On older Olivers the front of the bath vanity is held in place with only caulk while on newer units there are four screws and (I believe) caulk. The only way to look at those connections is to remove the screws, take a sharp knife or (preferably) a razor and carefully cut the caulk in order to remove that front. Of course, once removed the only way to get it water tight is to once again re-caulk that area. I would only do this as a last resort in trying to find the source of the leak - its not hard to do, but, it is a bit of a pita. Bill

Yes, there are a couple of things in the front of the camper that could leak and drain out the scupper holes. The drain from the shower pan and bath sink, the showerhead/sink faucet are both potentials. Get a flashlight and take a look around under both the dinette seat nearest the bath and under the street side bed near the pantry. That might help you find the leak. Bill