topgun2

I know that WiFi Ranger does software updates. About three years ago I was camped in some commercial RV park and saw a notice for a software update on my WiFi Ranger. Without thinking I simply clicked on the update and went to bed. The next morning my WiFi Ranger would not work. Long story, short - when you see that message to not turn off your device while an update takes place - obey it! During the download, the campground's wifi connection was lost which caused a total software failure in the Ranger. Yes, I know that one would think that they would/could have prevented that, but they didn't. The good news is that with the great help of the Service guys at Oliver, WiFi Ranger replaced the unit under warranty. Bill

Carl - two things: 1. There is a "snap ring" on the bottom of the ball assembly which is what stops it from pulling out of the housing when you lift the trailer/TV in order to get slack in the chains for removal/installation of the whaletail. If that nap ring has bent or broken then the ball assembly could lift too far out of the housing causing the problem you describe. Check that snap ring! 2. You can use the "lug wrench" that Oliver gave you with the camper (or a breaker bar or virtually anything with a 5/8 inch end on it) to move the bottom end of the ball housing into the position you need for the whaletail. Hope this helps. Bill

Whatda - Keep me in mind - I have recently been having problems with mine (probably due to my hitting a tree with it!). Thanks, Bill

A month or so ago I pulled into a campsite in the NFS campground - Baker's Hole - just north of West Yellowstone, Montana. Just after I got set up the couple that was camped next door excitedly came over to tell me that my Oliver was only the third one that they had ever seen. During a tour of the interior I asked them where did they see to first two Olivers. Then they told me their story about those Olivers being black and red and this very nice man was showing them in Quartzsite, AZ! Bill

For the most part these types of things in an RV are not really difficult to fix. They just take time to figure out what is wrong and then a little more time to actually fix it. You did all the right things - realized you didn't know what was wrong, asked for help, got a plan of attack aimed at finding the real problem and then executed that plan. Nice job! Bill

You can call Redneck Trailer Supply at 1-877-9Redneck, give them your axle number and they can give you the part numbers. Redneck is the parts supplier to Oliver. Shortly after I got my camper I did this and while the parts they shipped me are made in China, they are in nicely sealed blister packaging which is very convenient to carry as a spare. I'd also be willing to bet that if you went back into that second local store where you got your seals they could tell you these numbers as long as you supplied them with the axle info. Bill

This is the charge controller that is on my 25 watt solar panel: https://www.ramsond.com/shld-8/ And a 7 pin pigtail like this is available in many RV shops, WalMart and here: https://www.amazon.com/NEW-SUN-Trailer-Connector-Socket/dp/B0776VRGF5/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3NPAUKAVDDK0G&keywords=7+pin+rv+connector&qid=1567636307&s=gateway&sprefix=7+pin+rv+%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-6 And, there are many sources of 25 watt solar panels like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Watts-Monocrystalline-Newpowa-Module-Marine/dp/B01M9B6RQI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=12CG071XVKAB4&keywords=25+watt+solar+panel&qid=1567636359&s=gateway&sprefix=25+watt+solar+panel%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-3 Finally, here is the 7 pin wiring diagram:

Darn it! Perhaps a call to Sales - they might still have a record.

Charliep - Have you looked on your "build sheet" or delivery paperwork? With mine the serial numbers and or model numbers were listed there. Bill

Here's what it looks like in the meantime: Note that it is just a regular 25 watt panel with built in controller mounted on an old tripod with additional support legs off the front ( to get the angle of the panel adjusted better for the angle of the Winter sun) and the positive/negative wires from the panel wired into the 7 pin trailer connector. The yellow pieces of rope at the bottom of the legs are used along with 12 inch nails to secure the panel to the ground.

Yep - I traded another Oliver owner for it. There is a thread here on the Forum somewhere about this application. I'll try to find it but I must run at the moment. Bill

When I purchased my CalMark cover I asked about having clear panels sewn into the top for the solar panels. They will not do that. So, I simply put the cover on, make sure that the solar and all electric is turned off in the camper and then plug a small (25 watt) solar panel into the camper to tow vehicle pigtail so that the batteries remain charged over the storage period. Bill p.s. My Calmark cover is now going into its 5th year. I've had to patch about a half dozen places over the years where I did not pad the cover and the camper wore through - i.e. the corner of the folding steps, the bumper. But, Calmark includes patching material with the cover and all you do is glue the patch to the under side of the cover - works great.

Sure you can. But, it will require drilling a hole(s) through the exterior shell for the antenna - mounting and wire feed. I don't believe that either of these draw a bunch of power - so - they could probably be "tapped" into just about any existing circuit for power. You would probably also want to place a switch on the interior for that power which would mean drilling/sawing another hole on the interior shell. Also, I know that there are units/models that do not have permanently mounted antennas. Perhaps one of these would be better for your application if you don't want to drill holes. Bill

I agree with everything Overland says above. You'll get to where it is almost second nature with your ability to spot potential "trouble" spots. I almost always use the regular gas pumps versus those specifically labeled as for RV's. The RV pumps are almost always busy or out in the sun or placed in a relatively out of the way location. I pay particular attention (as Overland does) to the area between the pumps and the station/store. If it is too tight or if there are simply too many people/vehicles there I will either look for a pump on the end or simply go to another station. I also pay close attention to those "guards" that have been placed at or near the pumps to protect them. This is particularly important when exiting - don't cut it too close as those things simply don't move and they are not necessarily as visible as the pumps themselves. Finally, I pay attention to just how I plan to exit the station. Will I have to cross four lanes of traffic? Is there a traffic light that will make it easier and safer to get back to where I need to go? Are there alternate exits in the event someone or something blocks the most obvious one? Particularly until you get some experience, I'd chose ease and convenience over price. Better to pay a few cents more than get yourself into a situation that could be rather costly - call it the price of acquiring knowledge. Bill

I've heard those noises too - but - I just blamed it on the dog.

Yep - these things are indeed very much like those old blinds. Put a little too much pressure on that thing and those little gears just can't handle it without a bit of assistance. I usually wind mine all the way out and then back it up a half turn or so just to be on the safe side. Glad that everything worked out - all's well that ends well. Bill

While doing what Steve suggests, take a look at the part (metal tube) from which the awning is attached to the Oliver. Try (by hand) rotating it as another person pushes on those arms. Bill

That park is fairly close to Blue Springs State Park which is very nice and a good place to really see some sea cows and a bunch of different type of fish in the wild. Hopefully you are right about the coming storm. Bill

I would ask, "what in the world are YOU doing up on the Oliver roof?". But that question is probably better answered over a couple of beers! Bill

Routlaw - I'm sure that you would remember if you had the by-pass valve "off" or not. If you do not use the by-pass valve, you will be adding an additional 6 gallons of anti-freeze over the approximate 1.5 gallons that it takes otherwise. Bill p.s. of course I'm assuming that you are using anti-freeze versus other winterization methods.

WandR - 2 years and 4 months ago under the title "bathroom curtain rod", I posted what I did to make a curtain for that little bath window. Ya might want to take a look (use the Search function) unless you already have something in mind. Bill

Yes, we are thinking about all of the Family located in harms way. Do everything you can to be safe and good luck.

Bill - It is hard to argue against being safe and doing what makes one feel safer. Obviously, anytime you're messing around with something weighing as much as an Oliver it pays to be careful. Using jacks of any sort has always made me a bit nervous. That little "head" on bottle jacks looks even smaller to me when in use even though I always use something between it and what I'm jacking in order to distribute the weight a bit over a larger surface. The pressed steel parts of vehicle jacks never look strong enough to hold up what I'm about to work on. Sure, jack stands help with my fears but they are bulky and carrying them all the time is a bit more than I can bare. Which ever way you choose, just be careful and be redundant if possible. Bill

John - Yes, I suspected that this caulked in trim ring was as you describe. However, I was in no mood to deal with removing caulk and what I did was more than enough to get 95% of the fan clean. While it is not entirely comfortable, with the fan removed and a little flexibility, virtually all of the interior of the unit can be cleaned. Bill

Bill - With all other RV's I've owned until the Oliver, I carried a small bottle jack. Along with the jack in my truck I was always able to do what was necessary to fix any problem I encountered. Back when I purchased my Oliver it was still permissible to use the onboard "leveling/stabilizing" jacks for this purpose. However, the Factory now recommends NOT using these jacks for any purpose other than to "stabilize". I recently noted that on new Olivers there are even decals placed down near the frame which show places where frame jacking points are located. Certainly I'm not in a position where I can tell you what to do with your Oliver. Nor can I foresee all circumstances in which a jack might be necessary. However, in the rare times I've needed to raise my wheels (one side at a time only) off the ground, I've used my onboard jacks. I believe that I'm aware of the risks in doing this and my Oliver is no longer under warranty. Bill