topgun2

Trainman - The Andersen is the only WDH that will work with the Olivers without cutting away some of the fiberglass at the front of the camper. where does this problem occur, is it the adjuster, or the hitch" - the answer is YES. Since you have used the "normal" type of WDH you probably are aware that there are times that these hitches can be a bit of a problem. This usually occurs when the camper is at a fairly severe angle to the tow vehicle - the ground is very sloped in one direction or another. When un hitching and then re-hitching the Andersen it is particularly sensitive to having the tow vehicle and the camper in the same alignment for both operations. Most times, this is easy to do - but - there are those times (think rain, you are in a hurry, its dark, etc) when it is not so easy. Andersen changed the design of both the "whale tail" and the hitch ball housing a couple of years ago and the old design is no longer produced. Having used the Andersen for over three years it is my belief that as long as you pay attention to Andersen's instructions for removal and application you will encounter very few problems with their hitch system. On those occasions when it does not cooperate, it helps to stand back for a moment and figure out exactly what the problem it and then correct that problem. In virtually all cases - if you can not figure out what's wrong - you can simply disconnect the chains, drive to level ground and then (using Andersen's instructions) replace the chains and drive off. This is nothing very different from placing the torsion bars on an old style system when one simply can't lift it far enough up to get it in the proper place. I would recommend that you take a look at the Andersen video's on YouTube to get an idea of how their system works: or Bill

Nan - I split this discussion off from your original post because it doesn't specifically have to do with a truck in and of itself. First of all - congrates on your participation in the 401K program of your company. As you are now finding out - these tax advantaged programs can mean a great deal to you in your retirement. When you say that you moved your 401K to Wells Fargo, I assume that you moved it into another tax advantaged account (i.e. IRA or Roth IRA). If you moved it into a Roth IRA then you have already paid taxes on this amount and no further taxes are due (this is most likely NOT the case though). Given your questions, there are a number of things that should be considered: 1. Your age, health and overall financial standing. 2. Your overall tax status (both Federal and State) 3. Going into debt is "usually" not good, but, could be OK in certain circumstances (see number 2 above particularly in regards to any current stock holdings that may be at a loss from your original "basis" (the price you originally paid) or other losses that you may have recently incurred. 4. Selling your house? What is your "equity" position in the house? What other financial resources might you have? If you are not sure about this decision then I would say a big NO. 5. Throwing caution to the wind is not a very good idea since (depending on number one above) you probably do not have time to recover in the event something should go wrong. It appears to me that what you could use is a good financial advisor - someone that is certified as a financial planner. If you are not familiar with investments and general financial matters then a visit to your bank can serve as a starting place. They should be able to direct you to a number of certified financial planners in your area. Sometimes your insurance company can also get you this type of information. But, please, do not be afraid to ask for proof of certification AND how they will get paid for the service that they will give you. If at any time you do not feel comfortable - leave and seek someone that you DO feel comfortable with that can explain exactly what they are talking about to you in language that YOU understand. Bill

I agree with Sherry. The Porche would be a bit more fun on the drive to TN, but, the truck would be better for return. At least with the truck (considering the entire round trip) weather would not be as much of a concern and weight or hills would be a no brainer. Bill

Nan - Virtually any new 1/2 ton truck from any brand is capable of towing an Elite II. Total cargo capacity can be a little concern especially if you are looking at full timing or are a heavy packer. Be sure to look at trucks that have the integrated towing package - not only does this help with the brake controller but it also usually has things like a larger gas tank (very helpful in the West) and transmission cooler. Finally, any 1/2 ton truck that I know of will require a weight distribution hitch - primarily due to the 500 pound weight limit on the hitch ball itself. I'd recommend that you NOT get caught up on a specific brand of truck but look at them all to determine the one that you like best with the features, comfort and price that meet your needs. Bill

G & T - Fixing them yourself depends on what programs you have on your computer. The basic operation involves bring your "posted" photo into a photo editing program - such as - Microsoft Photos or Adobe Photoshop or Corel Paintshop or etc. - and use that to turn the photo the right side up. Then you would simply re-post it. Bill

KWR - I certainly would want to watch the total amount of weight that you are loading on the "shelf". Surely the "Solo" should not weigh that much, but the Yeti 75 could get fairly heavy (loaded). Bill

Roundabout - 1. I don't think that there would be a problem with what you are proposing. However, since I have the twin bed model, hopefully those that actually have the king bed setup will come forward to answer this question. 2. With the Elite II your hitch weight will normally be between 500 and 600 pounds. Most (if not all) vehicles other than heavy duty trucks require a weight distribution hitch if that weight is at or over 500 pounds. Therefore, it is my guess that, yes, you will need one. However, you should look at specifically what is required for your vehicle. 3. There have been a number of discussions on this Forum about gutter guards. This is what is most commonly used: https://www.amazon.com/Essential-Products-OW01044-White-Gutter/dp/B01GWF8BYS/ref=sr_1_9? crid=2C93VH46P2K4X&keywords=rv+gutter+guards&qid=1552229679&s=gateway&sprefix=rv+gutter+guards%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-9 However, take a close look at the picture of the Elite II that is shown here on the Forum just as you log in. It shows an awning over the dinette window that was adapted by Little House Customs from a design that is used on the Casita. 4. I suggest that you just read through the Forum to get some idea of what owners have to say about problems they have had with their Olivers. I think that you will find that most problems are associated with products that are not specifically made by Oliver (i.e. fridges, heaters, etc.). In any case, all new Olivers come with a five year warranty on the frame, lifetime on the shells, and, bumper to bumper for one year on the whole thing. Of course this is in addition to any warranty that a component manufacturer has on their product. Plus, just this past week you probably saw this Forum post: http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/oliver-service-department/ Bill

Perhaps this could be a bit like herding cats, but it is certainly worth a try. I would think that the process would be fairly simple - post the time and places along your route to the Rally that would be convenient for people to meet up. Then wait to see if anyone actually shows up. Obviously, overnight stops would be good for this purpose. Good luck! Bill

Landrover - While there is nothing official (as of yet), I do know that the folks at Oliver have been working on a plan that should provide much the same type of thing as you experienced with Airstream for overnight stays. Sure will be nice when (and if) they actually get it done. Bill

Jim & Mary - No its not on the Forum but Mr. Wamsley does a great job with it each month and it is easy to have it delivered to your email inbox by just sending your email address as per my original post. Bill

John - I'm not a lawyer nor am I an insurance expert. However, I have been down this road before regarding liability issues (not directly with my Oliver though). While I'd be interested in hearing what someone with "expert" knowledge has to say on the subject, it would seem to me that in today's world it is prudent to have personal general liability insurance in addition to the normal home owner's and vehicle insurance that I assume virtually all Oliver owners carry. I doubt very seriously that Oliver Travel Trailers would be in a position to "cover" the insurance or costs for any of us that chose to show our campers to anyone - to include prospective buyers and/or referred contacts. Of course, if someone was injured while touring my camper I would assume that they would sue me and anyone else connected with the "showing" and this would include the entity with the deepest pockets - Oliver. I would also assume that a court would take into account both intent and possible negligence in any decision that they would render. Given some of the "crazy" decisions that we all have read about - who knows. But, within the bounds of my financial resources, I try to cover my liabilities as best I can while at the same time living my life in a sane and prudent manner and do not expect Oliver to cover insurance costs for things that they can not directly control. Bill

For anyone that doesn't presently receive the subject newsletter, you can subscribe by calling: 1-888-526-3978 or emailing at: info@olivertraveltrailers.com telling them that you want to receive the monthly newsletter. This month's Newsletter starts off with a nice video featuring our very own "Bugeyedriver" - Pete and Bosker or click on this link Bill

Nah - just stuff as many pipe cleaners as you can into that larger hole. Given that he bought out the entire North Carolina stock, he should have plenty. Bill

One sure could buy a bunch of pipe cleaners for that $50!

Yesterday, there was a rumor over on the Fiberglass RV Forum that Lil Snoozy had gone out of business. Unfortunately, this morning it appears that the rumor has been confirmed. See: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f51/lil-snoozy-has-closed-shop-88375.html for details. Bill

Yep - I agree with Sherry (unfortunately). Either the gutters (they actually do help but are not bullet proof) or awnings (better but wind can be a problem) can reduce this issue a bunch. Overland - During my "heavy" motorcycle days (inside of face shields on full face helmets) and triathlon days (inside of swim googles) I tried just about any "anti-fog" on the market. None really worked very well. However, I never tried the $50 and oz stuff! Bill

KWR - I've not been called (yet), but while there are always camping spots that some appreciate more than others, there really isn't a "bad" spot at the Rally. This really is a very nice place with excellent facilities. Bill p.s. If you have a bike - throw it in. It can be a fair walk from the camping area to the vendor area and where breakfast is held each day. Of course you can always drive if that is your preference.

RB - Sorry it has taken soooo long, but I finally found a photo of that Buffalo Bill statue outside of Oakley, KS that I mentioned above. Note the crop dusting plane in the left of the background. Bill

808, Let me add my Welcome to the others. All good suggestions above - particularly the one about contacting the Sales Office at Oliver - see the "888" phone number at the top of this page. There have been "on and off" discussions at the Oliver Company about rentals for situations exactly such as yours. Perhaps, if you ask, you just might be the lucky people to get this program started! Good Luck. Bill p.s. I spent 25 years living and working in St. Louis - hot in the summer and cold in the winter. But, still, a great family town.

Oh boy - here we go (again). As I have stated on the Forum previously, I do not believe that there is a "bad" late model 1/2 ton truck on the market today. Drive them all and pick the one that best suits your individual needs and pocketbook. I happen to own the Ford F-150 that you are going to test drive (2017 Lariat model with tow package). This is my second 3.5 ecoboost with no problems on either one. However, if you plan on keeping this truck for more than 100,000 miles I'd do some further research regarding any known maintenance problems after that level of mileage. In any vehicle of this type that you purchase, I'd make certain that you get the large gas tank (particularly if you are planning on towing virtually anywhere out West) and integrated brake controller. Bill

Glad you like it. Be sure to go over to the bay side either late in the day or (preferable) fairly early in the morning to see the spoonbills. Also, if you take a walk or bike ride on what is called the "straight road" or "carriage road" (this is the original road to the castle from highway 17) be sure to look on both edges for gators. Bill

Rumline - The good, the bad, and the ugly of Yellowstone can be had at many of the "first come, first served" camping areas. In my own experience I've had the times when I just showed up and got a spot - arrived after 11am. However, this was back in my tent and pop-up camper days when I could fit into just about any space. More recently I arrived just after five am and was third in line! And, yes, I then had to wait for the camper that was occupying that spot to leave. This was no big deal in that I simply took a nice nap inside the Ollie. Then, during the two weeks I spent in that campground there never was a day when the campground didn't become full by 10am. Of course there are a couple of campgrounds inside the Park where it wouldn't take you two hours to exit the Park. But, if all or virtually all the sites are taken inside the Park then you can rest assured that many of the closer in sites will also be reasonably crowded. I understand that "Fishing Bridge" campground inside the Park will be closed for a good deal of the summer this year. If that is the case, sites anywhere in the area are going to be a bit more crowded. Bill

Welcome Granitestaters! And now that dreaded long wait really begins. But, you will have your Oliver for the full summer season and be old pros with it in no time at all. I just received an email from a friend of mine in upstart New York who told me that he is looking forward to minus 11 degrees tonight after receiving 7 inches of snow last night. Hopefully it is not that bad where you guys are located. In any case, it is time to start that process of gathering the things you want to make that Oliver all your own. Bill

Here are links to Mike's stuff mentioned above. https://www.amazon.com/Goof-Off-FG653-Professional-Strength/dp/B002MPPYYS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=MR0VA9XT6HW5&keywords=goof+off+pro+strength+remover&qid=1551198148&s=gateway&sprefix=goof+%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-3 and https://www.amazon.com/Ehdis-Visibility-Plastic-Scraping-Windshields/dp/B01HLWB0BM/ref=sr_1_17?crid=MR0VA9XT6HW5&keywords=goof+off+pro+strength+remover&qid=1551198317&s=gateway&sprefix=goof+%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-17 Bill

Have you checked for debris at the end of the inlet manifold (i.e. just past where the propane mixes with air but short of the combustion chamber)? Paint, rust, dirt, dust, etc. can all accumulate here and a sensor that is in that area will not left propane to continue flowing. Using "canned air" or an air compressor you can - gently - blow into this area. Make sure that you DO NOT blow back into the orifice from which the propane comes out (you do not want to plug this or get anything into this very tiny opening). Bill