CRM

Not so sure that product will work for your application. I've used similar fire barrier sealants in the past to seal cabling conduits and they don't cure like typical sealants do. They cure to a hard clay-like consistency so that the sealant can be easily removed and replaced when additional cables or conduit are added. They also expand when heated, though I don't know at what temp this occurs.

Some more pictures of the track mount that show a little more detail. Painted the track with white epoxy enamel since last pics and it now blends in much better. The locknuts in the front of the mount are only adjusted once when installing and the two knobs in the back are used to lock the mount in place while traveling and then left slightly loose while in use to allow the easy removal of the TV and access to emergency window. Used a 4" wide piece of white rubberized tape on the back of the mount to prevent marring of the track and add additional grip when traveling.

I have a Coleman 9.2k BTU in my Elite 2 and would replace with the same if/when it decides to give up on me. So far all of my camping has been in my home state of Florida and mostly during hot and humid weather conditions. Pretty much runs continuously on 90+ days, but always brings the temps and humidity down to comfortable levels within an hour or so of setup, and holds it for the duration. Uses around 10amps on AC and 16 amps on the 6k BTU heat strip.

Don't know what type of aluminum they are made of, but they seem to be strong enough for this application. I've used it on several trips already and haven't noticed any bending of the channel lips that hold the bolt heads, but will keep an eye on that going forward. Inside the cabinet I reused the original large metal plate that the factory TV was mounted to. Countersunk the track so the screw heads were recessed and then used lock nuts inside the cabinet. I think I used 6 per side. The TV bracket itself is the same one currently used by Oliver. I used the knobs included in the track kit to mount the TV mount so I'm able to adjust the mount tightness by hand. I'll get some better pics soon. It's actually very easy to access the rear window in case of emergency. I can grab TV, pull it forward, and then slide it right off the track which gives me more room than if the TV was there in the folded up position. This is the main reason I didn't recess the channel into the cabinet which would have looked more aesthetically pleasing, but wouldn't allow such quick access to the rear window. My favorite part of this mod is that the TV can be slid almost to the back window and the seat space below is now usable with the TV down. Makes the space feel so much larger even though the TV is so much bigger than what was there. Almost like having a wall mounted TV.

I used aluminum "T Track" designed for use in a router table. Pretty sure this is the kit I used- Universal T-Track Kit

I was able to get a 34" installed in mine, but had to also install a track system for the mount to make it work. Thought I responded here, but somehow I clicked on the link in bhncb's response and posted on that thread instead... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4188-television/?do=findComment&comment=85831&_rid=6801

I replaced the old-school Jensen 24" that was in my Ollie when bought it with a 34" LED. Would have rather went with a 32", but decided to use a spare TV that I wasn't using instead. I did end up mounting it on a rail system so I could slide the TV back to the rear window when in the down position since it was way too far forward for my liking without it. Pretty happy with it but still might downsize to a 32" when this one craps out.

The wet sanding step is only necessary when the surface is highly oxidized, and if it is, you're wasting your time if you skip this step. On the bright side, once you put the work in and get your trailer's finish back it's much easier to keep it looking that way with frequent washings with a dedicated boat wash and light compounding/wax once or twice a year.

I use a Dewalt buffer (DWP849X) with a cutting wool pad for heavy/medium compounding and a wool polishing pad for light compounding and waxing. For compounds and waxes I use the 3M "Prefect-it" system exclusively. After washing, if the finish is highly oxidized I'll start with wet sanding with 800-1000 grit paper, followed with their gelcoat heavy cutting compound, then light cutting compound + wax, and finish with the Perfect-it boat wax. If finish is not too oxidized I skip the wet sanding and heavy compound steps and start off with the light cutting compound + wax and finish with the boat wax.

Congratulations and welcome aboard from close relative Hull 045!

I, and others, tried explaining to the woman in the video that her problem was due to an oversized unit, but she won't even consider it because the people who sold it to her said it was sized correctly.

Beautiful install!

I'm one of the lucky ones with 5200 axles, but not sure if the upgrade is worth the $3k to me as I have no problems whatsoever with the braking on my LE2. Maybe single axle trailers see more of a performance boost?

Did a little research and the info in this video is completely fake. I guess they can get away with it due to the "about" description of their channel. At the very bottom it reads "Disclaimer: This is a fan channel made for fictive entertainment, and not affiliated with Mr. Musk, SpaceX, Tesla, Neuralink, The Boring Company, Neuralink, NASA, Blue Origin, etc." With close to 900k followers they're probably making over 6 figures per year doing nothing other than spreading false information..

A real link, like a news link, or a link to the tweet shown in this video.

Not doubting you since Musk will likely go wherever the federal money is thrown, but do you have a link to where he states this? Last I heard, he thought hydrogen cars were the "most dumb thing ever".

I'm surprised.. I can't think of a less efficient and more dangerous way to fuel a passenger vehicle.

Thank you, it came out better than I hoped. I love having the large pass-through storage area but it does come at the cost of having reduced galley drawer space and ducted heat.

Lol.. It was the cheapskate in me that drove the decision to install vinyl. Had just enough leftover from when I replaced the interior flooring to do it and the rubber flooring was going cost me around $150. Thanks for the suggestion to caulk the bezels, going to get on that today.

Finished off the basement floor with some leftover vinyl flooring and installed a couple of light bars... On to the next project!

I use a microfiber cloth with 3m Perfect-It Light Cutting Polish + Wax. Takes any black streaks off very easily too as long as there's already a good coat of wax on the hull..

Looks like you have a lot more work to do than I did. I got off easy as I didn't have any water line rerouting to contend with. After seeing pics of your basement, I'm now wondering if I should go back and install the light bezels through the Reflectix or not.

Thanks, it came out better than I thought it would and I'm now very happy to have eliminated any chance of future moisture damage.. And yes, I used 3M Super 77 spray adhesive for most of it and Velcro strips for around the lights to allow for easy access.

New PVC floor in and basement insulated with Reflectex. Still have to copy what @ScubaRx has done and build a new shower box but that will have to wait until after our thanksgiving trip down in the Keys. Will be installing a rubber mat over the floor too to keep things from sliding around.

Pretty content with my Ollie, but if it were 6-12" wider it wouldn't hurt my feelings..