CRM

I attached a nylon mesh bag on the back to keep the hose from catching on anything. Before that it was always push-pull until I was able to get the whole line out.

There are several non-safety issues that can cause a GFCI to trip when an RV is plugged into it. One thing I would always check if this happened is to make sure that the neutral and grounds aren't bonded in the RV. That could potentially cause a serious problem when plugged into a standard 30 or 50 amp outlet.

Ouch, I'm surprised the drums were salvageable.

Thanks.. And now they're $400 more than they were when I first started looking at them! Thankfully it's just a want and not a need at the moment. Will jump on it if the price comes back down or my Coleman poops the bed... whichever comes first.

That's good to hear, and I hope they continue to work flawlessly for you. Personally, it's a red flag and I won't run any appliances in my home or Ollie without a UL or ETL certification. Even then, still not a guarantee that the unit is actually certified as seen with the Gree dehumidifier recalls that covered a decade of units that caused hundreds of fires and a few deaths that were found to have faked UL certifications.

Looks like it doesn't have a UL or ETL certification either...

Yep, never a neutral in a DC circuit.

I'm starting to think that it may be due to the location of the busbar's in the case. The ground bar is set further down in the case (bottom) and the neutral bar set up higher (top).

Not at home so I can't check mine visually, but this diagram from the manual may help. Green shows as ground and white as neutral, but it looks like they're calling the top bar the bottom and the bottom bar the top. Strange...

Autoformer's should be standard equipment in all RV's and probably would be if Hughes didn't hold the patent on it . And smart that you permanently mounted yours inside too.. Keeps it safe and secure plus no prying eyes to accuse you of "stealing power". 😄

Gary- looks like the tariffs are hitting all of them. Was getting reading to order a Greenland Inverter AC unit and the price jumped $300 overnight. On top of that, now they're out of stock at the moment too. Think I'll wait until the tariff situation is resolved and hope my 16 year old Coleman holds out a little longer...

From what I've read, you'll get nowhere near that 500 miles range while towing an Ollie with that vehicle. Depending on which model you get, I'd be planning for closer to 200 to 225 miles between charges.

I can't help you here as mine came with a 3M type protective tape and not a rubber seal on that edge. The tape alone seems to be working fine (so far) with the PVC edging sitting right on top of it.

Yes, it's very tight fit and no glue is needed. To install it I just used a rubber mallet to drive it down over the edge of the cover. The steel clips embedded into the vinyl hold it on securely and IMHO, it's a much better solution that the hard plastic edging that came on our Ollie.

This is what I used. Used it around the spare tire cover and to cover the rough edge on bed rails, too. Rubber Edge Trim, U Channel Edge Trim with Metal Clips Edge Guard Protector

That's a big reason why I try to keep things as simple as possible and only own equipment that I can easily purchase parts for and service myself, even if not considered "the best" available. I don't say this to make anyone angry, but nothing Truma will ever be installed in my Ollie.

Our 16 year old Dometic is still going strong too. As long as I start it up 24 hours before leaving on a trip the temps stay in the 30's the whole time no matter the conditions. Adding external fans really helped and I have no idea why they weren't standard equipment.

Glad you found someone at a reasonable cost to check it out for you. Hope it's something simple and easily fixed!

When you got this advice, did you get pressure/temp specs for your exact model and have gauges on both the suction and discharge sides when charging? If not, it's very possible that you caused another issue on top of the original problem. Small systems like these have very precise charge amounts and they're almost always recharged by recovering whatever refrigerant is still in the system, evacuated, and then re-charged by using the weight of refrigerant required according to OEM specs.

I am totally unfamiliar with the Isotherm refrigerators, but the first thing I would check would be to make sure the compressor is actually running while temps are above the setpoint and if not then test the thermistor for correct resistance. I would also check to make sure that I'm getting full voltage to the unit, and that the condenser coils were clean and cooling fan(s) were operating if it has them. Could be a refrigerant leak that's causing it, but in my experience, more often than not it's something other than low refrigerant levels when there's a lack of cooling.

These days, unless you just always camp using hookups, I can't think of a single reason why you would want to put AGM's in your RV.

Sorry, tried to edit my original post and reposted by mistake. Changed "I would" to "I wouldn't"

Personally, I would worry about how high the CFM's are since any 15k unit is going to give you as much or more than needed inside the small space of an Ollie. I'm more concerned with how low the CFM's can go at it's lowest setting for controlling humidity and I couldn't get that info on the Atmos when I was researching it.

No, you will still get the full 45 amps of charging, it's just that it's split between two batteries when wired parallel, sending 22.5 amps to each.

I will definitely be adding solar sometime next year. My son will be going off to college and my wife and I will be hitting the road for a VERY extended period. Want to be ready for boondocking, which I know we'll have to do along the way, whether she likes it or not! In the beginning stages of planning now and will stuff in as many amp hours worth of batteries, and as many watts of solar as possible, but still crunching numbers and comparing all the other parts and pieces. I really just wanted to go all Victron since I love their monitoring system but when comparing the invertor function of the MultiPlus 12/3000/120-50 to the Xantrex XC Pro 3000 I found a substantial difference in wattage ratings as the temps climb. At 104 degrees and above the Victron de-rates much more than the Xantrex and it only has 1760 watts available for inductive loads while the Xantrex has 2400. Gets even worse at 113 degress where it's 1628 vs 2220. I know we'll eventually end up in some pretty hot places where we'll need to run the AC for a while and I want to be sure I can run it under those conditions, so for now I'm stuck on what to do. Thankfully I have time to figure it out and make a decision. Sorry to hijack your post, @Teaney Hull 292! I'll buy the first round next time!