John E Davies

Hi guys, I have been offline for a long time and wanted to tell you a little about my trailer "Mouse". Soon I will start new threads on certain topics, with pictures, but for now I have copied my email to Jason and Anita. Hi Jason; We had a great trip back to Spokane but it was physically exhausting. We put 3025 miles on the trailer after delivery. It tows beautifully behind my full sized Ram 5.9 diesel and I got 14.5 mpg combined, with a best of 16.4. Several times I was really glad of its compact size. Its width matches the width of my truck’s fender flares. if my mirrors clear, so will the Oliver.,… We took it from Durango to Ouray over a TWISTY 11,000 ft pass and it did great, except for the drawers all dumping stuff everywhere…. Hey Anita, we made it home without getting ticketed for the missing travel permit, but I sweated bullets every time we passed a cop, which admittedly was not very often. (Note: Anita was unable to give me a temporary tag since the lady who does it was on vacation. The trailer travelled "naked" the entire trip.) There are several items that need to be addressed, and some that I just want you to be aware of, and to pass on, to avoid future issues. I hope you will send the needed parts directly to me so I can avoid having to go to an RV dealer. As an ex-aircraft mechanic I have the tools and skills to do the work myself, correctly and professionally. Problems and defects to be corrected by Oliver: 1 - 4G Cell booster flashes red/ green all the time and does not do anything. The antenna has a small metal ground plane, but is it actually big enough? Also the plate appears to be plain steel and is already rusting! Can you supply me with a bigger stainless plate to fix this? I would prefer a flex antenna if it is available, to prevent breaking it off on a branch. 2 - Drawer slides are still screwed up. The bedside table drawer immediately broke one stop free from the wood. I duct taped it closed for the rest of the trip. The other drawers all open in transit on twisty roads and dump stuff onto the floor. I believe that they are not yet damaged. I would like to install stainless latches in all drawers (except the tip-out sponge tray) to match the ones already used in the pantry and closet. I would be happy to pay your wholesale cost for the latches. Please send me: Qty 1: set drawer stops (L and R) Qty 3: non-locking latches Qty 3: locking latches and keys Qty 6: striker plates (Note: I want to replace the two non-locking latches in my propane access hatches with locking, and will use those inside for in the cabin drawers. The third locking latch will be for the bedside table drawer for extra security.) The drawer problem is a serious one and you definitely need to fix this on the production line! The screws are too short and they MUST have additional secure locking latches. Simply slamming on the brakes is enough to cause the rear drawer to fly open! 3 - Dining lights switch at main entry is defective. The one in back is fine. Please send me: Qty 1 - dining light switch. 4 - External solar port: wires are unprotected by split loom, completely unsecured in both bays, and NO FUSE is installed! Should have a 10 amp. Please send m: Qty 1: Yellow inline fuse holder and 10 amp fuse. 5 - Hot water heater failed on propane. AC element works fine. The board is bad. There is power to the solenoid and the indicator light, but there is no ignition. The unit cycles three times, then locks out.I checked the board and verified that it has power and ground. The breakers are not tripped. Please send me: Qty 1: Hot water heater control board (module). ______________________________________________________________ For your information only. Please pass this on to your crew. A - Wheels: were not balanced. I had the work done en route for $50. I think they should be balanced there, before delivery. Or at least make it an option. B - Natures Head: fan was inoperative for first three days. I traced the problem to a blown fuse in the main panel. It was a 1 amp, and was supposed to be 2 to 5 amps. The fuse location was NOT labeled! I labeled it and installed a 3 amp fuse. I think that you should install a small green LED in the circuit near the toilet so it is easy to see that the fan is powered. C - Natures Head: agitator handle very loose and fell off. I tightened the jam bolt and nut. D - Hot water was tepid, never reaching full temperature. I found the valves at the outside shower wide open (bypassing) and closed them. E - Refrigerator quit after three days, display panel was completely dead. I found the fuse loose in the socket. The fuse was visibly cocked down and the prongs were spread so that they did not make tight contact. I squeezed the prongs together to fix it. Please ask your electricians to be careful not to tweak the fuses in their holders. F - Solar panel knobs: loose after 100 miles. One was a full half turn loose. I modified them by drilling holes in the knobs and securing them with white nylon wire ties. It is very easy to VISUALLY check from the ground if they have moved. I think it is MOST IMPORTANT that you do something to secure these fasteners! Most owners would not think of checking them routinely. This should be a Service Bulletin. G - Atwood Air Command display was set to Centigrade. I switched it to Fahrenheit (press and hold Down and Fan buttons). H - Zamp ZS-30A Solar Charge Control: missing literature. I will download and print it out. It is recommended that owners check and re-torque the terminal screws after 30 days. Make this a Service Bulletin. I - Dexter axle and brakes literature missing. I will download. J - Bulldog couple literature missing. I will download. They recommend to LUBE THE BALL and other moving parts. This coupler can be a real bitch to latch if things are even slightly mis-aligned. Do you have any suggestions? I plan to grind a 45 degree bevel on the bottom of the coupler opening to help it slide down onto the ball, past the ball flat. I would install a round top ball, if I could locate one. K - Furnace: smells “hot" on initial start, each time, used three nights. Is this normal? L - Loose and unsecured wiring: pretty much everywhere. I secured the rats nests with wire ties. This may meet RV standards but it is very disappointing to find in a premium trailer. And do you really need a 12 foot video cable for a three foot run to a bluray player????! M - Seat cushion foam: really poor quality, can I order some denser stuff? The supplied foam has zero support. Disappointing! Or did I get a bad batch? N - TV installation: it really is in the way! Especially with the ten inch mattress. I removed it and the bracket completely. There was no way to get into the under bed storage area. It needs a swing out setup that stows under the rear cabinet. O - Checklists: I will write a Travel and Camp checklist and post it at the entry door. Maybe you could do this at the factory. P - Twin beds: are not really twins, they are 30 inches wide (not 39”). You should list this in the sales literature. My linens are way too large and will need to be cut down. Q - Pantry: needs a light! R - Under bed and under dinette storage: Would be MUCH more useful with removable rimmed trays that would provide a flat floor while protecting nearby wires and plumbing. S - Overhead cabinets: need ventilation in storage, perhaps short lanyards to hold them open six inches (risk of mildew). Use diamond stone to make a bevel on the SHARP EDGES of the mirrored doors!. They are real head knockers when hanging down! T - Fantastic Fan: green light is way too bright at night, needs a shield or cover with tape. U - Mud flaps: needed to prevent road junk from collecting on water connections, underside of hull and rear jacks. Should be a factory option.. Thanks for your prompt attention to the main numbered issues listed at the top of the page. John Davies Spokane WA

If you are not aware of this factor, here you go. The Ford and GM diesels, being V8s, are really tightly packaged and it is hard to get at a lot of the components. It is common shop practice to remove the cab from the chassis to do major repairs to areas that are buried deep. The Cummins is a straight six, and it is really easy to get to _everything_, in situ. No need to remove the cab. If you plan to sell the truck when the warranty runs out, this is a non-issue. If you plan to keep it beyond the warranty, then you will be facing major expenses with the V8s vs the I6, if you lose a turbo, for example. Even in warranty, you may be stranded for a lot longer if your Super Duty goes down, compared to your Ram. That can mess up a vacation... They all have _horrible_ long term costs associated with the DPF and other emissions stuff. You can delete them but it is very much illegal, and you will get your trailer sooty. Having owned a 2006 Ram 5.9 Cummins for three years, I would never consider a later model diesel of any brand without the intent of deleting the emissions after the warranty is gone. BTW the Cruiser uses 87 Octane. Except for the TRD Land Speed Cruiser, which I think must run on methanol since it has 2000 bhp and does 230 mph.... LOL. Land Cruisers are not the greatest tow vehicles, you pick one for what it will do off pavement, not how it tows three tons. I thought you were pretty heavily focused on that aspect, what changed your mind? The diesel HD trucks all ride pretty darned rough compared to the half tons.... and none are worth a hoot on potholed forest roads without an expensive aftermarket suspension system, like a Carli. Take a look at and drive a Power Wagon, while you are out and around. Neat trucks, if there are no graphics. Good luck on your search. John Davies Spokane WA

I can't comment on the noise beyond that they do whine. Your tv and associated equipment are 12 vdc and you do not need to turn the inverter on. John Davies Spokane WA

You will always get a gas furnace, that is standard. The regular wall thermostat controls both heat and cold, just like at home. For some reason the Atwood won't tie into that easily, so you just run it as a stand alone device. You don't need the bigger unit unless you live in the Mojave Desert - it's a very small and extremely well insulated trailer - but running a generator to run an electric heat strip just doesn't make much sense when you can just run the furnace. If you are concerned about it, choose the 30 pound bottle option. The heat strip would be useful if your were connected to shore power every time you camp, but in that case the Atwood wouldn't be so attractive... These trailers are made to be off-grid, and I intend to use ours that way. John Davies Spokane WA

It will be rather vulnerable to road damge there, unlike the factory design. I really dislike having a totally enclosed waste connection, for many reasons, but I do GREATLY appreciate that it is not exposed to getting bashed, as in most other RVs. You would be wise to consider adding long mud flaps, and a stout protective housing or guard around the sewer outlet, and keep it tucked as close to the centerline as possible... Please post pics when this project is completed. John Davies Spokane WA

It's a a $65 additional charge for the smaller Atwood Air Command (with no heat strip). Like a lot of the more commonly ordered mods (extra access/ inspection ports, for example) it won't likely appear on the factory option list until more buyers request one of the Atwood models. It drips condensate down the outside of the hull, not via the Oliver belly drain. If you live in a humid climate, east of the Rockies, you might not want to deal with that nuisance, but in the arid states I think it won't matter. It does not integrate into the factory thermostat. It has a remote tho. I am picking my Ollie up in a week and can post a user report on the Air Command when I get some time. John Davies Spokane WA

Cool, thanks, those are good wheels. I found a catalog and there is warrnty info. For wheels sold to OEM manufacturers, ie Oliver Trailer, it's four years, if to an individual, two years. I wonder why the difference? http://sendelwheel.com/resources/images/2017sendelwheelscatalog.pdf They also make an S63 steelie ;) John Davies, Spokane WA

John, Thanks for the comments. I understand that the axles are rated for 1750 "per side" but they have a huge safety margin. Cheap cast alloy wheels don't, and if something should fail, it will most likely be a wheel. My main concern is corrosion. Once the pretty polish is attacked and pitted there is really nothing you can do to correct it. I once bought a set of beautiful polished Mickey Thompson wheels that were ruined during a single brief drive on deicer-wet roads here in Spokane. They sat damp overnight and this is what I saw when I rinsed them off the next day. These white spots are actually deep pits in the aluminum. They show up white because of the flash - they were actually not a different color than the rim. The wheels had a fresh coat of car wax on both sides. Discount Tire took them back and sold me a set of painted and clear coated wheels that held up for a decade. They were not happy to do it, but they did understand that this sort of instant corrosion should not happen. But it can and does... The problem is well known. The wheel manufacturer says "Clean them in winter to preserve the finish", but sometimes that is simply not possible to do when the temps are below freezing. I really would like to hear from those of you in northern climes. Show me a picture of a five year old Ollie wheel that has been through some less than ideal weather and road conditions. BTW, refinishing a plain painted _steel_ wheel is dead simple and cheap. A can of primer and two cans of spray paint will re-do the outside of four wheels, easily, in a couple of hours. Most of the time is used in sanding and masking the tires and valve stems.... https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-HWP101-Silver-Performance-Wheel/dp/B000B6DFZ0 Painting aluminum, so that it will stay on, is much more of a challenge! Finally, heavier wheels are a non-issue with a trailer since they are unsprung weight and do not add to the load carried by the axles and suspension. Except for the spare in back... They will however show up when you put it on a truck scale. Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

From pictures I have concluded that the supplied wheels are Ion 71 alloys with machined finish. http://www.thewheelgroup.com/?products=style-71 Is this correct? If so, here is warranty and care information. I don't recall seeing this in the manual. Corrosion is not covered, and is due to what they call "improper care". RECOMMENDED WHEEL CARE Wheels should be cleaned by hand regularly to remove contaminants like road grime, salt, ice/snow melting chemical, dirt, and brake dust. Automatic spray and touch free car washes do not completely remove contaminants, these can cause harm to the finish, hand washing is highly recommended. Many areas of the country use road salts and chemicals during the winter months that can cause adverse effects on your wheels, it is recommended to clean more frequently during this season. Failure to do so may greatly reduce the life of the product. Avoid using automatic car washes, the cleaning agents and brushes used to clean tires can damage the wheel surface. Never wash your wheels when they are still hot from driving. Do not attempt to cool hot wheels with water, this may cause damage to the finish and can warp the brake rotors and/or drums. For PVD and Chrome plated wheels, a simple solution such as car wash soup and water, will keep it clean and maintained when applied regularly. http://www.thewheelgroup.com/warranty/ If you drive through deicers will these pit and corrode immediately? There is no indication that they have a clear coat. I love the look but wonder how they hold up long term. Could those of you with older units, especially those in northern areas, post closeup pictures? How do the wheels stand up to gravel rash? I am seriously considering replacing them with steel wheels that can quickly and easily be refinished with an aerosol wheel paint as they get scarred up.... I would store the originals in pristene condition for a future resale of the trailer. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pack-Trailer-Wheel-Silver-Rims-16-x-6-Modular-Style-6-Lug-On-5-5-/182531823775 BTW steelies are WAY stronger than those Ions: these are rated at 3760 lbs. The Ions have a very low 2200 lb load rating. If one tire on your loaded down Elite II blows, you have immediately severely overloaded the other Ion wheel on that side. Not good! Thanks for your comments. John Davies Spokane WA

Please try it out ASAP and post a followup review here, with pictures, of course.... John Davies Spokane WA

I have to say that I really like this. I like fires, but hate the smell and smoke. I also think it is classy and attractive. https://expeditionportal.com/field-tested-solo-stove-bonfire/ If your TV isn't a full sized pickup, then it is probably too bulky for camping, but for those of you with the big trucks, it could be filled with other gear (in plastic bags), a water container, or firewood.... and not take up much extra space. After letting it cool ;) It's on sale .... https://www.solostove.com/solo-stove-bonfire John Davies Spokane WA

Bingo! Any particular brand better than others? Thanks, John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks for the comments. When using a 2400 watt generator, I want to be able to keep my bulky and expen$ive 30 amp shore power cable secured away from sight, and instead use a heavy conventional extension cord with an 18 inch pigtail adapter at the trailer. I don't want a heavy cable hanging off the generator from a small adapter as pictured above. Does that make sense? What adapters, if any, usually come with the trailer besides the cable? I am unlikely to use this setup except for running the air conditioning or charging on cloudy days. Not both simultaneously. John Davies Spokane WA

Is this similar to what comes on the side of the trailer? https://www.ecmarinesupply.com/products/furrion-30a-stainless-steel-round-inlet-w-powersmart-led?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=googlepla&variant=37655374730 I want to buy an adapter to plug a 20 amp generator directly into the side of the trailer. What do you folks use? I assume the far end has the locking marine connector, do you just use a 10awg, 15 amp adapter and HD 15 amp extension cord? It should be OK plugged into a 20 amp generator receptacle, or do I need a complete custom 20 amp cable? Can someone post closeup pics of the cord and also the inside of the receptacle cavity, cover open? I don't want to order the wrong type cord. Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

Has anyone seen this cutie? It appears to have a really great build quality but it is not equal to the Olivers. Base price is $14K and the removable and optional modules are sure to add up very fast. http://inhabitat.com/solar-powered-retro-modern-happier-camper-hc1-features-a-lego-like-interior/ Check out the pictures in their brochures: https://happiercamper.com/wp-content/themes/Happier%20Camper/pdfs/happier-camper-brochure.pdf https://happiercamper.com/wp-content/themes/Happier%20Camper/pdfs/happier-camper-adaptiv.pdf All this, yet it can't go off road, despite the pictures, and it only has a one year warranty.... I wonder what MSRP on a loaded version would be? I am not sure why it has both a gaping cargo hatch AND a side door. That seems too much in a trailer this size. How about a combination cargo/ man door in back only...? The contoured solar panel is neat, but it is a poor choice for warm climates since the panel will overheat and can even cause structural roof damage. Solar panels get really hot and need air circulation. I do think that having the option to carry large cargo is a fantastic feature. You would have to be really careful to not scratch up the gelcoat inside. Comments? John Davies Spokane WA

If you mean a 12 volt USB _converter_, then yes, they are handy and efficient. If you mean an actual 12 volt inverter, that converts 12 volts DC to 110 VAC, then it is NOT efficient to plug your device pronged wall charger into it. Dropping DC voltage is fine, converting it to AC and then back to DC again is very inefficient and wasteful. Most of the little cigarette lighter USB units are converters, not inverters. There are inverters: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Inverters-Cigarette-Lighter/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=n%3A583328%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A4889846011 Don't use them unless you need to charge a unit that does not have USB charging capabilities, for example, a rechargeable battery pack for a handheld comm radio or portable drill. Most of them produce very dirty, spiky current and will likely harm motors and sensitive electronics, like a laptop, and maybe a TV! OTH they are great for batteries and such. Google "modified sine wave" for info. John Davies Spokane WA

Is this the one you mean? If so, their website is down and their Facebook page has pretty damning reviews about all the best spots already taken by full timers, and deteriorated infrastructure - crumbling roads and unrepaired facilities. ... https://www.facebook.com/pages/1000-Trails-Natchez-Trace-Wilderness-Preserve/220456981339799 Have you been there recently? Is it any better? The Google Streetview images are from back in 2008 and it looks like a slum. It does not look very promising to me, if I have the right RV park.... https://www.google.com/maps/@35.4359206,-87.4754997,3a,75y,90.73h,75t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sEJK0CpnW5ixLx0XKBdskDQ!2e0!7i3328!8i1664 John Davies Spokane WA

Yes, but it should not make you hesitate. You can easily suck water in using the main water pump. If that pump fails, it won't do you any good to gravity fill the tank since you could not use any of it. Lack of gravity filling is a plus, not a minus. John Davies Spokane WA

This guy tests every concievable aspect of this generator. It's a pretty amazing project. The generator is a winner. http://www.2manytoyz.com/yamaha2400.html He mentions a $100 Yamaha rebate. I could not find any info on this...? John Davies Spokane WA

Sorry for the double post.... They are sold in tiny numbers, so you will need to use Autotrader or Car Gurus to locate one. Even a used one will show you a lot, there have been minimal changes through the years. Try Crawl mode, it is very entertaining. John Davies Spokane WA

Overlander, since you are out test driving vehicles, try a Land Cruiser 200. It is more expensive than a Disco but much more capable offroad than any uni-body LR, and WAY better built. You could pick up a really nice Certified 2014+ for the price of a new Discovery. The downside is that people will mistake it for a Highlander instead of a space vehicle.... or that's an upside, I dunno. Stock articulation: A Disco would have one tire a foot in the air. John Davies Spokane WA

http://news.pickuptrucks.com/2017/05/which-premium-truck-performs-best-as-a-daily-driver.html Don't let mpgs rule your search. The best unladen fuel economy of the group came from the Titan XD but it really struggled pulling a trailer near its max load. Its always best to err on the side of "too much truck" than the other way around, which happens all too often. John Davies Sokane WA

Thanks so much for the many comments. I think we will stop at Jackson on I40, since it swarms with mainstream lodging. Expedia shows 71, starting at $34! I am a little stunned by the low prices. Maybe there are rats? ;) More likely bedbugs.... We will look for something in the $60 to $80 range. That will give us an easy 90 minute drive the next morning to Howenwald. Maybe if we need to sleep outside the trailer one night later on in the week, for repairs, we will try a local place. Thanks again. John Davies Spokane WA

It should be dead simple, plug and play, if you buy the Tekonsha Toyota adapter harness. Definitely pick a spot away from your knees. In the event of a collision it will rip open your leg otherwise. The P3 needs to be aligned parallel to the centerline of the truck, but it does NOT need to be horizontal, like the older units. It is a great controller for the price, and thus very popular. Shop around since prices vary wildly. You also need this tester. It is the only device that will functionally test your electronic controller without having a trailer attached, a great investment for peace of mind that your truck is ready to tow. ... https://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-6562-Trailer-Emulator-Display/dp/B004BCA9B8 John Davies Spokane WA

Aftermarket engine tuners are very common for diesels, but in the case of the Raptor EcoBoost, maybe there is a market for an Economy Towing mode that optimizes fuel consumption by lowering boost and fueling. You don't (usually) need 500+ ft lbs for towing an Ollie. 350 is plenty. Keep the boost down and the fuel consumption drops dramatically. Are there multi-program tuners for the Raptor? I am sure that you know that fat tires, lots of lift and truck aerodynamics are the killer of fuel economy. You need to decide how important those features are for you. Seen this review? ... http://truckyeah.jalopnik.com/the-2017-ford-raptor-is-a-gas-sucking-one-trick-pony-bu-1794548282 Adding a lightweight canopy will improve highway mileage measurably, but it will subtract from the already dismal payload numbers. I want to trade my 2006 3500 Ram diesel in on a used Land Cruiser 200, and I will probably leave it mostly stock to avoid the deadly spiral of adding off-road mods that kill fuel economy. Considering where a stock cruiser will go, I can live with a set of meatier tires and sliders. I think the fact that you are reconsidering your choice is a good thing. John Davies Spokane WA