rich.dev

Only recommendation I have is to schedule it for early November so we can make it down from Nova Scotia! 😜

John, these posts should help you, happy reading! https://supersizelife.com/replacing-your-rvs-window-seals/ https://www.pellandent.com/Half-Inch-Glass-Vinyl-Seal

@Dennis and Melissa PM Dave...Oliver forum name @Sully, if I remember correctly Dave and Kris spent 2 months in the Maritimes (Nova Scotia and Newfoundland) last year June/July. Here's a link of their trip to the Maritimes.

@Gliddenwoods Here’s the link to above post.

lol...Yes I feel your pain, I'm in pretty good shape, but its hard these days maneuvering in tight spaces! Thank you, will definitely keep it in mind, what's the best route from Quartzsite to Prescott?

@Against The Wind I believe you should be good, my trailer is in storage, if nobody chimes in I can check for you tomorrow

Thanks Art. The peplink router and antenna works well. I haven’t done much with it, just tested the antenna where my trailer is stored and a difference of approx. 100gb download speed vs regular cell reception IN THAT AREA, could be different in other areas and I know if no cell reception the antenna means buggerall, hence the Starlink for boondocking spots with no cell reception. The Starlink is paused until we will need it so hopefully the 12V conversion and other mods I made for it will work, I’ll know in about a month when we will be down in Arizona.😊

Your 2022 should be the same as my 2023....Inverter breaker is under the street side bed, here's a pic, you can see the inverter breaker is "off" (red tab on bottom) vs the 12V MAIN breaker which is on.

Here’s what I do 1) Tug the 7 pin in between the fibreglass and aluminum beam, it’s a nice tight fit 2) bought kohree rv tire covers from Amazon, there are many options 3) I stuck green painters tape over the switch

John, I threw my OEM rain seal out yeterday, sorry didn't look at a part number. Will be doing same as you with 3/4" wide J drip rail next week.

Max BR1 Pro 5G

Well my install is done, following the advise of @jd1923 and install by @MAX Burner, I installed the Peplink router, Starlink 12V conversion and just for sh*ts and giggles a 12V fan in the closet. Also, I initially installed the Peplink 42 antenna to the awning with the included L bracket, but that only lasted about 130miles, the one hole in the plastic L bracket broke out and the bracket was only held on by the other screw! Anyway, that was before I decided to add an entry point for the Starlink to the roof for a later flatmount project. I currently have a pole mount and the idea was to add a Blue Seas Cable Clam hull penetration adjacent to the 7-pin cable like @MAX Burner did with his dc/dc install. After the Peplink L brack issue, I decided to go with a box on top of the roof with the Peplink antenna sitting on top, and an RJ45 waterproof connector on the side of the box for the Starlink cable quick connect, either for the roof mount, pole mount, or using the 25' cable on the ground. Here's the box on the roof, I used a Lifegard Aquatics R270577 1" slip bulkhead fitting to feed the 7 antenna cables and RJ45 cable through to inside the closet. Not pretty, and probably should've gone with a slighly lower profile box! ..and the RJ45 waterproof connector on the side of the box for the Starlink cable quick connect, either for the roof mount, pole mount, or using the 25' cable on the ground.. Peplink Router, Fan, 12v thermostat, Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block and EL6 DC/12V conversion kit for Starlink Gen 3 This install (inside the closet) took way longer than I was hoping for, it's a very tight space, and unless you have the shape/flexibility of a spaghetti, you will end up with scrapes and bruises in places you didn't know existed! If I had to do it all over again, I would attach/mount all the wires to the thermostat before mounting it to the wall like I did, and to make things worse, the Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block was mounted before the thermostat, so I had to basically go in blind to mount the wires to the bottom of the thermostat (not shown in my pictures, bottom of the thremostat is obscured by the top of the Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block), but this is what the thermostat looks like at the bottom, I had to get 18AWG wires into that blue connectors, it was literally a pain in the arse!

Yup unfortunately only available in 40’ from what I could find, so that’s what I ordered 40’!

I have the trim lok drip rail above the windows and Oliver sign on rear of trailer, very satisfied with it. The Trim Lok is 1/2” deep/wide, I discovered this 3/4” deep/wide drip rail that should work great for below the awning.

@Galway Girl thanks for the very informative post, sounds like this is an issue with the Truma water heater, if I remember correctly you guys had a similar issue before? Hope you guys enjoyed NS, we will be staying at a season spot just east of Truro when we return from Arizona next year April/May until October.