Wandering Sagebrush

JD, that’s a deal compared to the Portland area. In the little town of Aurora, we were paying $380/mo for two covered back in open spaces. I’m so thankful we now have our own storage barn.

Paraphrasing Groucho (with considerable license), any neighborhood who would allow a resident like me, I wouldn’t want to live in anyway. At this stage in life, any town with a stoplight is far too big. Here’s another soap/wax that does a reasonable job. Far easier than Collinite.

Our previous home had a 12’ wide driveway that had an immediate 90° turn, with a hog wire fence. Trying to back in our first Airstream, the driver side rock guard caught and ripped the skin, plus the ruined rock guard. Hence the desire to have a trailer mover.

A Parkit 360… the secret of success. There’s been many a time I wished I had invested in a trailer mover.

I’m pretty sure it was from the mothership, but I will throw a meter on it.I have the Zamp portable with both Anderson and SAE. The PO said he never used it.

Thank you!

Does anyone know if the aux port is wired through the solar controller, or direct to battery bank? I just dug out my portable solar suitcase that has a controller.

A bit off topic, but the kitchen drawer hack reminded me of a great small company for things like footman loops, bungee cord, webbing and related hardware. Strap Works in Eugene, Oregon.

Looks good!

It might be worth a little time to check out their Oil Bath bearings and hubs. I had them on my EZ Loader boat trailer, and I liked them a LOT!

I have never had an issue with the twist lock style plugs. For me, it’s a solution in search of a problem.

So far, just light, bulky stuff. Leveling blocks, a cordless vacuum, empty 20L Sceptor water cans. Heavy stuff goes in the front basket. When in camp, things with a tendency to walk away (like generators) are locked in it.

@topgun2, I think I lied. The photo of the box was on wanderthewest.com, not here. BTW, WTW is another great family friendly place to hang out on the web. It’s focused mostly around popup campers, but includes most types of small RVs and trailers. @MAX Burner The rear trailer lights are visible, but 50% blocked by the box, hence the lights on top. The previous owner had two trays for mtn bikes that he retained, but I believe my round bar style Yakima trays will work well.

Bill, I’m pretty sure you did miss it. The previous owner bought it from Highway Products in White City, Oregon. They make quality, but not inexpensive, aluminum gear. I’ve seen their flatbeds with boxes, and they’re impressive. I haven’t pulled it off yet, but my guess is it’s in the 40-50 pound range. If I have a flat, it does need to be pulled back a few inches to remove the spare tire cover.

I’m so thankful we have a composting toilet, but if we didn’t, the tote would go (empty and well secured!) on the top of our storage box

I’m not sure how many will respond, but is there a way to see results as they come in?

Hi Eric, welcome aboard. We started looking at Olivers about the same time they started showing up as a topic on Air Forums. We’ve had two Airstreams, a ‘98 Safari 25’ 6 sleeper, and a ‘12 Flying Cloud 25’ FB. Even though the AS trailers are well made, I believe the OTTs are much better. What got us to finally make the move was difficulty getting the Airstream into the RV barn. With an off camber incline, and only 6” clearance on each side of the door, not to forget snow and ice… it was nerve wracking. No regrets.

CRM, thank you!

Thanks Mossey, I have both panels of now.

John, thank you!

Hell bent for leather Life in the west…

I’m packing up for a couple of days of father daughter camping, with the curb side in direct sun. There’s clearly a cooling fan running, but I’m not certain if this is a Dometic feature of one added by the previous owner. It’s a bit on the noisy side. Does anyone know if the fan is standard? I did deploy the awing to get it shaded.

JD & Scott knew the secret Grease Monkey handshake. Lifting pressure off the suspension did the trick. My thanks to both! 🙏

I found a PDF for the Dexter Axle Parts Catalog. Which might be handy to cross reference Dexter part numbers to NAPA and other manufacturer’s numbers.

JD, thank you. One is in fact a front zerk, the other sits on top of the Equalizer. I’ll give the front zerk a try with a raised wheel.