Wandering Sagebrush

We finally got a window (and the courage to drive through PDX traffic) to visit the Oliver dealer in Salem, Oregon. It took about 30 minutes, and the tech seemed professional. Atta boys for the service team We also took a few minutes to look at the new Olivers that were at the dealership. They’re nice, but I suspect we won’t be buying a new trailer. I did like the compressor fridge and lithium batteries, but I don’t think it will be enough to sway us.

I have not seen or tried one, but they do look interesting. I’ve gone another route for rough terrain and have purchased a high clearance teardrop for my solo trips. The teardrop I mentioned above has a Max Coupler articulated hitch. While it’s nice in rough terrain, I can’t see myself taking the Ollie into those conditions.

I’m late to the party, but having a truck with similar abilities, I definitely have an opinion. I would never tow my Ollie with my Ranger. The F350 does a fine job. In addition to being able to tow, the ability to stop should be considered.

With respect to the crack. You might want to consider stop drilling the upper end to help relieve the forces in play. To be safe, it would be best to run this by Oliver.

Dale Ann Bradley - Ripple cover

A quick update, Mike Sharpe replied to my ticket, and let me know the hand piece is an ITC. They’re readily available from Amazon. Thank you, Mike.

JD and all, Thank you!

I lied, must be my geezerly memory.

Hi JD, thanks. Unfortunately, ours is different. The hand piece has the female side. I will get a photo posted today.

The hand piece on our outside shower has pinhole leaks along a molding joint, probably my fault. Does anyone have a source, or knows who made it? I did create a service ticket, but have not yet heard back. Thanks

Have tried to use it (just to see if it works), but IMO the Furion stereo/tv is pure unadulterated amp sucking garbage. Oliver, are you listening?

One more recommendation for a SafeJack kit, compressor (I have a Viair 400p), plug kit, and torque wrench. Your experience was a wake-up call for me to get solid lug nuts.

A friend was recently camping at over 10,000 feet, and had the Truma throw an error code. I’m posting here to see if anyone in the Oliver community has had a similar experience. https://www.wanderthewest.com/threads/truma-varioheat-furnace-use-question.1201055/

Craig, thank you. I’ve got the MC 4 to SAE adapter, with polarity reverse plug. Looks like I just need to pick up a controller. Thanks again…

I may do something like this, but is it necessary? Does the wiring from the external SAE solar port connect directly to the batteries, or do they go to the onboard charge controller? I have 2 portable 160 watt EcoFlow panels that do not have a controller. If the external wiring goes from the SAE connector to the charge controller, all I need is a MC4 to SAE adapter, and possibly a reverse polarity adapter if the trailer side has Zamp polarity.

I had a similar hitch on my cargo trailer. In 2020, when moving to NE Oregon, I hit an I-84 expansion joint so hard it popped the hitch of the 2-5/16” ball. The chains held, and in heavy traffic I made it to the very narrow shoulder. Somehow I got it reconnected. The hitch was properly connected. The trailer now has a Bulldog hitch.

One more… Molly Tuttle covering Johnny Hartford’s Gentle on my Mind.

Putting the Wayback Machine in gear. Another beautiful voice gone far too soon. Nina Gerber on guitar.

Is that aluminum, or steel? Looks secure.

While I was getting prepared to decalcify the Ollie, I was directed to select the faucet with the best volume/flow, are remove the aerator. The kitchen sink faucet seemed like the most logical place to do this, but I did not see an easy (read any) obvious way to do that. Consequently, the bathroom shower head got the duty. Is there anyway to disassemble the kitchen faucet? And while I’m in question mode… what brand is it? Thanks in advance.

Thanks Bill, I’m just irritated at myself. But… some good stuff were a result.

SOLVED - I think… Well, I feel a bit foolish, but the outside shower valves were open. They didn’t feel like it, but they were. Turning right (righty, tighty) there was considerable resistance, so I assumed (ass-u-ME) they were closed. Not the case at all he said blushingly. Dang I feel foolish! I believe a good test coming out of winterization, is to try and turn the shower valves on. If you hit a hard stop, they are on. A slight wiggle when turning right just may indicate an open valve. The temps went up to 96° before I turned the water off. The good news is the Truma is decalcified. Bad news is I am embarrassed.🙈

While the furnace, stove, and refer all seem to function normally, I’m going to check my propane pressures to see if I’m not getting enough propane to the Truma burner. Any words of wisdom on where to attach? Edit: The Truma tech (via email) just recommended having a service technician do the pressure check.😕

Decalcified the Truma, but it’s good news- bad news. The water is much warmer, but it’s in low 80s. The temp is consistent now, so I guess I’ll run the decalc process again. Almost had a genuine OH SUGARFOOT moment. I did the flush in the bathroom, forgetting to open the drain. It had about an inch to go when I remembered to hit the switch 😳

One of my friends carries his own shower head in his luggage.